1.2.3 Woollen and worsted yarns Flashcards
Woollen yarns
Woollen yarns are carded and spun, worsted yarns are carded, combed, drawn and spun. The additional combing and drawing operation removes short fibres and causes the fibres to lie more parallel to one another.
A fabric woven from a woollen yarn will be less expensive, warmer, but also less durable. Typical examples are tweed and flannel.
Worsted yarns
A worsted yarn is therefore smooth and even compared with a rough and hairy woollen yarn. A worsted yarn is more expensive to produce, but is also more durable. It is used to weave typical men’s suiting such as gabardine.
Woollen fabrics
Fibre
Short, curly fibres
Worsted fabrics
Fibre
Long, straight fibres
Woollen fabrics
Yarn
Carded only; slack twist; weaker yarns
Worsted fabrics
Yarn
Carded and combed; tight twist; stronger yarns
Woollen fabrics
Weave
Indistinct pattern; usually plain weave, sometimes twill; thread count less than worsteds
Worsted fabrics
Weave
Distinct pattern; mainly twill weave, infrequently plain weave; more closely woven than woollens
Woollen fabrics
Finish
Soft finish; fulling, napping
Worsted fabrics
Finish
Hard finish; singed, steamed
Woollen fabrics
Appearance and touch
Soft, fuzzy, thick
Worsted fabrics
Appearance and touch
Flat, rough, harsh
Woollen fabrics
Characteristics
Warmer than worsteds, not as durable; nap protects against shine
Worsted fabrics
Characteristics
Wrinkle less than wool- lens, more durable; hold creases and shape; become shiny with use
Woollen fabrics
Uses
Generally less expensive than worsteds; used for sportswear, jackets, skirts, blankets
