2.2 Knitted fabrics

Question 1

Circular knit:

Answer 1

A weft-knitted fabric produced in tubular form (also known as a tubular knit)

Question 2

Course:

Answer 2

A series of successive loops extending crosswise (horizontally) in a single row in a knitted fabric

Question 3

Wale:

Answer 3

A column of loops that runs lengthwise in a piece of knitted fabric

Question 4

Interlock knit:

Answer 4

A variation of a rib-knit fabric; the construction resembles two separate layers of 1 6 1 rib fabrics that are ”interknitted”

Question 5

Raschel knit:

Answer 5

A warp-knit fabric, usually of intricate lacy patterns that imitate crochet, net or lace

Question 6

Tricot knit:

Answer 6

The simplest and most common warp-knit fabric

Question 7

Warp knit:

Answer 7

A knit fabric constructed on an open-width knitting machine with yarns running in the lengthwise (or warp) direction of the fabric, each wale fed by one or more individual yarns

Question 8

Weft knit:

Answer 8

A knitted fabric in which the yarn producing the loops in the fabric is carried across the width of the fabric – that is, in the crosswise or weft direction in the lengthwise (or warp), direction of the fabric, each wale fed by one or more individual yarns

Question 9

Knitted fabrics

Answer 9

Knitted fabrics are cheaper to produce than woven fabrics. They are creaseresistant, light in weight and have a natural give or stretch, making them comfortable to wear. This, as well as the availability of filament and textured filament yarns, has led to an increase in the popularity of knitted garments. Whereas in 1963, only 24% of clothing fabrics were knits, they accounted for nearly 50% by 1978.
In knitting we refer to the rows of stitches running in vertical columns along the lengthwise direction of the fabrics as wales. This corresponds to the warp of woven fabrics. Crosswise rows of stitches are called courses. This corresponds to the filling or weft of woven goods.

Question 10

There are two main methods of constructing fabrics, namely

Answer 10

weft or filling knitting and warpknitting.

Question 11

Weft knitting

Answer 11

Weft knitting is similar to hand or domestic machine knitting. One yarn is passed from needle to needle, forming one course at a time. It is called weft knitting because the yarn moves from side to side as the weft yarn does during the weaving process. In industry, most weft knitting is done on machines that have needles arranged in a circle. The fabric is formed as a tube which can be slit to form a flat fabric. This is called circular or tubular knitting. The knitted tube is not always cut open; it can be used in a tubular form for T-shirts and nylon stockings (hosiery). Weft knitting can also be produced on a flat-bed machine.

Question 12

Basic weft-knitting stitches

Weft knitting can be classified into four basic stitches.

Answer 12

Knitstitch
Purlstitch
Missstitch
Tuckstitch

Question 13

Knitstitch

Answer 13

Knit or plain stitch resembles what hand knitters call stocking stitch. The front and the back of the fabric do not look the same. If one does this stitch by hand, one would knit one row plain and one row purl. It is the stitch mostly used for T-shirt fabric. A fabric in knit stitch curls.

Question 14

Purlstitch

Answer 14

Purl, or reverse stitch, looks somewhat like the reverse side of plain (stocking) stitch. The front and the back of the fabric look the same. In hand knitting, this is achieved by knitting every row plain, and is called garter stitch. It is slightly thicker than a fabric in knit stitch and does not curl.

Question 15

Missstitch

Answer 15

In miss or float stitch, the stitch is not actually formed, but the yarn floats at the back of the fabric. The needle is not pushed forward at all – the yarn is not hooked by the needle, but the old loop is retained with the new yarn just ”floating” across it.

Question 16

Tuckstitch

Answer 16

In tuck stitch, the needle is pushed just far enough to hook the yarn but not to knit off the previous stitch. Both the previous stitch and the new loop remain on the needle.

Question 17

Weft-knit fabrics have the following characteristics:

Answer 17

1 They can either be fully fashioned or cut and sewn like any woven fabric.
2 A run can form in the lengthwise (wale) direction if a yarn breaks.
3 They have good stretch, especially in the course direction.
4 They do not ravel.
5 They can be manufactured in a wide variety of constructions and patterns.
6 They are crease-resistant.

Question 18

We can differentiate between a number of weft-knit fabrics.

Answer 18

Plain,or single,knits

Question 19

Plain,or single

Answer 19

Plain or single knits are made on one set of needles, on a circular or a flat-bed machine. They are not dimensionally as stable as knits produced on two sets of needles. A run occurs very easily in a plain knit. Production rates are high. The fabrics are used for sweaters, underwear, piece goods and fully fashioned garments.

Question 20

Various knits: Purlknits

Answer 20

Purl fabrics have been described under the purl stitch. They do not curl and have considerable stretch, particularly in the wale direction. Purl knits are slow and costly to produce. Because of their extension, they are commonly used for children’s wear. The purl structure is often used as a way to introduce pattern to plain knitting.

Question 21

Ribknits

Answer 21

Rib-knit fabrics have lengthwise ribs. They need two sets of needles, arranged in a flat- bed formation or in a circle. A rib knit can stretch considerably in a crosswise (horizontal) direction. They also tend to be warm. Production rates are slower than for single or purl knits, and rib knits are more costly because of the increased fabric weight (more yarns are used per unit area). Because of their stretch and close fit, they are used at the lower edges of sweaters or sleeves, and at necklines, as well as for piece goods and garments.

Question 22

Cardigan

Answer 22

Cardigan stitch (often called fisherman’s rib in South Africa) is a variation of rib knitting which consists of a tuck stitch on one or both sides of the fabric. It produces greater width than ordinary rib stitches from the same number of needles. Fabrics are used for garments and sometimes piece goods.

Question 23

Interlock/doublejersey

Answer 23

The interlock knit is another variation of the rib knit. It resembles two separate 1 X 1 rib fabrics that are inter knitted. The fabrics (double jersey or double knits) are thicker and heavier than regular rib fabrics of the same gauge (gauge is the fineness of a knit fabric). They have better stability, are easier to sew and do not tend to curl at the edges. Double jersey is used for outerwear, often using wool or acrylic fibres, and underwear, using cot- ton fibres. Jacquard knits, Ponte di Roma and knitted pile fabrics are other variations of double knits.

Question 24

2.2.3 Warp knitting

Answer 24

In warp knitting, the loops are formed in a warp wise direction. Each needle is supplied with its own yarn. The loops are interlocked with the loops on either side. The fabric consists of vertical chains of loops which are connected sideways. Warp knitting is manufactured rapidly and in great quantities. The fabric is flat and has straight side edges. Warp knitting can be classified according to the type of equipment used.

Question 25

Warp-knit fabrics:

Tricotfabrics

Answer 25

A larger variety of tricot fabrics such as plain, satin and brushed tricot are produced. Tri-cot fabrics are soft, crease-resistant, run-resistant and elastic, do not fray, and have good draping properties. They are predominantly used for panties, petticoats, sleepwear, dresses and linings laminated to other fabrics.

Question 26

Raschelknits

Answer 26

Raschel equipment can produce a huge variety of fabrics used for thermal underwear, elastic nets for foundation garments, decorative fashion fabrics and upholstery fabrics. Of particular importance are the raschel crochet-look fabrics – most of the laces used today are raschel knits. They are usually heavier than tricot knits and those with openwork, lacy patterns have a three-dimensional raised appearance. Raschel knits can be made with excellent dimensional stability or fabrics can be made with stretch and extension. The fabrics may have outstanding strength, depending on the type of fibres and yarns used. The design flexibility of raschel fabrics is extremely wide.

Question 27

Other warp knits

Answer 27

Other warp knits are milanese, simplex, cidera and kettern raschel knits.

Question 28

2.2.4 Care of knitted garments

Answer 28

Knits, in particular weft knits, can easily become distorted when hanging. For this reason, loosely knitted garments must be laid flat to dry and also stored on a flat surface, not on a hanger. Knitted fabrics tend to snag when rubbed against a rough surface. A loop can be pulled out of the surface and, if broken, the fabric may ladder.