2.3.3e Joining fabrics

Question 1

Textile fabrics can be joined in a number of
different ways. Here are some factors to consider
when deciding on a particular method:

Answer 1

The fabric – different fabrics require different
approaches.
* The type of product and its purpose – some
construction techniques are stronger than
others.
* The construction details – the points on a
product that are being joined, will it be visible?
* Economic considerations – some methods are
more expensive than others.

Question 2

Finishing edges

Answer 2

• Hems
  Refers to the lower edges of a garment or ends
  of sleeves. Can be machine stitched or by hand.
  Some methods make use of invisible stitching for a
  better finish. All involve turning up the raw edge in
  some way.
• Facings
  A facing is used to finish a shaped neckline or
  edge, or armholes. A piece of fabric mirroring the
  shaped edge is stitched to it and turned to the
  inside of the garment, concealing the raw edge.
• Piping
  Piping is a bias-cut piece of fabric folded over a
  cord and inserted into a seam or used along the
  edge. Decorative, but also adds strength.
• Binding
  Used to conceal raw edges or to finish a seam. Can be decorative or functional. Often used on
  waterproof products as it forms an additional
  barrier to moisture.

Question 3

Joining seams

Answer 3

Plain
Universal method of joining two fabric pieces
together using standard 1.5cm seam allowance. Raw
edges require further neatening.
* French
Conceals all raw edges, and is a neat finish
particularly on sheer fabric. Can only be used on
straight seams.
* Double stitched
Two rows of stitching are used to strengthen the
seam.
* Flat fell
Two rows of stitching, but all raw edges are
concealed. Two rows of stitching are visible on the
outside, often adding a decorative feature. Can also
be used on reversible products.
* Lapped
One edge of the fabric is lapped over the other
before stitching through the layers. Used on fabric that does not fray, e.g. leather.
* Overlocked
Specialist machinery is used to cut and stitch over
the edge of the fabric – joined and neatened in one operation.
* Tacking
A temporary method of joining fabrics by hand.
Large even stitches hold the fabric together before
being permanently joined. Stiches can easily be removed later.
* Stay stitching
Large stitches that stabilise curved edges to
prevent distortion of the edge - critical for a good
finish when it is permanently stitched.

Question 4

Shaping techniques

Answer 4

Darts
A wedged piece of fabric is pinched out of the
fabric to create shape. Used for removing excess
fabric from the bust area and waistlines.
* Princess line seams
Long vertical seams that run from the shoulder to
hemline. They are shaped and follow the contours
of the body. Variations exist.
* Gathers
Gathers control fullness and are created by pulling a
thread from a line of stitching to create small tucks
or pleats. Can also be decorative and used in a frill
as an edging.
* Tucks
Folds in fabric which can be single or in multiples.
A means of reducing fullness. Can be used for
decorative purposes.
* Pleats
Pleats are similar to tucks but reduce fullness at
specific points allowing the rest of the fabric to
drape and add style. They can be soft or sharp but
must be accurate. Pleats can be permanently held in
a thermosetting fabric such as polyester.
* Casings
Casings are narrow channels through which elastic
or cord is threaded. This allows fullness to be drawn
in. Casings are used for style or for fit, allowing for
ease of adjustment.
* Elastic
Elastic can be sewn directly onto fabric or held in
a casing. Clothing can be put on or taken off more
easily, but also adds to comfort and fit at certain
points such as waistbands or cuffs.