2.3.3 a construction and working properties of materials

Question 1

The choice of material for a textile product
depends on the following:

Answer 1

• fibre content – the sources of the fibre
• spinning method - fibres into yarn
• construction of fabric
• applied finishes.
  All of these factors affect the fabric’s end use and
  the impact it could have on the final product.

Question 2

woven and knitted fabrics

Answer 2

Weaving and knitting are the two most popular
construction methods for textile fabrics. Both
have subtypes.
* Woven and knitted fabrics serve different
purposes.
* The property of a knitted or woven fabric
remains the same regardless of the fibre
content.
* Woven fabrics have more structure and are
considered more formal.
* Knitted fabrics are considered more casual as
they have the ability to stretch.
* Fabric properties change depending on the
tightness of the woven or knitted construction.
For example, the resultant fabric in a loose
weave will be less stable than in a tight weave.

Question 3

felted fabrics

Answer 3

Felted fabrics made from wool fibres rely on the
natural ability of wool, in particular the scales,
to matt together. This can be done using heat,
mechanical action or moisture.
* Needle felts consist of synthetic fibres matted
together mechanically using barbed needles.

Question 4

Woven construction

Answer 4

Weaving is the interlacing of two sets of yarns at
right angles.
Warp yarns travel the length of the fabric whilst
weft yarns travel across the fabric interlinking with
the warp yarns. Variations in weave patterns are
created by different formations of yarns interlinking.
* Plain: the most common type and is considered
strong and stable.
* Twill: identified by diagonal lines and is
considered a stronger weave, making it ideal for workwear.
* Satin: has a characteristic shiny side caused by the warp yarns floating over the weft yarns. Satin
weave drapes well, but snags easily.
* Herringbone: a variation on the twill weave, identified by a zigzag pattern.
* Pile weave: has a raised surface created by an
additional weft thread which forms tufts or loops
that stand up. The tufts can be cut to create plush fabrics such as velour. Pile fabrics have a ’nap’
and need to be cut in one direction only.

Question 5

Non-woven fabrics

Answer 5

Non-woven fabrics are made directly from fibres.
They are:
* cheap to manufacture
* cheaper to use as there is no grain
* they do not fray when cut
* weaker than knitted or woven fabric.
Uses include disposable products, interfacings,
filters, liners and insulation.
Non-woven carbon fibres are used to make fabrics
for military use and in filtration systems.
Nonwoven fabrics can be impregnated with
beneficial chemicals to use on products such as
wound dressings.

Question 6

Knitted construction

Answer 6

There are two types of knitted construction:
* Weft knitting is formed by continuous rows of
loops interlocking horizontally across the fabric.
* Warp knitting is formed by yarns interlocking
vertically along the length of fabric.
Characteristics of weft knitting:
* It unravels easily and ladders or runs if cut.
* It stretches easily but can also lose shape.
* It has an obvious right and wrong side.
Characteristics of warp knitting:
* Difficult to unravel and does not ladder if cut.
* Has stretch or elasticity but holds its shape well.
* Identical on both sides.
* Lies flat when it has been cut.
* Faster to manufacture than weft knitting and
cheaper to produce.
Weft knitting can be achieved by hand or machine
whereas warp knitting can only be done on an
industrial machine.

Question 7

quilting

Answer 7

Quilting consists of 3 layers of fabric stitched
through to hold them securely: an outer or facing
layer, middle layer usually wadding or similar and an
inner lining layer.
Quilting can be:
* decorative – intricate patterns in the stitching
* strong and protective – used in areas of wear e.g.
reinforcing the knee/elbow area
* insulation – layers of fabric are warmer as air is
trapped between the layers. Wadding has gaps
in the fibres, which also increase insulation levels.