13 - Radical Fashion

Question 1

why radical change is rare?

Answer 1

fashion has a lot of limitations and as a result fashion spends more time looking backwards than forward

• innovation is rare, radical change is even more rare

Question 2

japanese avant-garde

Answer 2

gives primacy to textile`
wrapping vs tailoring
diagonal vs straight cutting
garments worn in variety of ways
no occasion of use
no functionality
black or no colour

Question 3

comme de garçons

Answer 3

Rei Kawakubo

• guerilla stores
• collaborations

Question 4

belgian avant-garde

Answer 4

Martin Margiela

style: deconstructive designs + unconventional materials
communication: avoids pics and all media is via fax and taken collectively by the design team

anonymity (signage, models, uniforms, collective speaking…)

Question 5

why has China not developed a luxury industry yet?

Answer 5

economic: lack of capital + creativeness because it all went to financial market + property sector
social: individuals seek short term profits and not willing to engage in manufacturing of fine products
cultural: cultural revolution destroyed country’s traditional values - no clear consensus on china’s style
legal: intellectual property rights are not protected and counterfeiters get rich faster

Question 6

chinese avant-garde

Answer 6

difficulty finding manufacturers who are willing to produce small quantity of fabrics as they usually only take big bulk orders for export

challenge is to show that made in china if combined with designed in china can be high quality

Question 7

why is it difficult to do business with radical fashion?

Answer 7

niche business - expensive + difficult to wear

to succeed, radical designers have to compromise with mainstream business logic (partnerships, fragrances)

Question 8

innovation nowadays

Answer 8

related to: new digital + sustainable business models + tech fabrics