10.1 Coastal landscapes

Question 1

How is the coast shaped by wave action

Answer 1

• Sea waves are foward-moving surges of energy
• In deep water waves move in circular motion
• As the wave approached the sea bed this motion is interrupted and the wave movement becomes elliptical. There is friction with the seabed
• As the seabed incline gets steeper, the top of the wave moves faster
• The orbit becomes increasingly elliptical until the wave breaks
• The water rushes up to the beach and water from the previous washes down the beach

Question 2

What does it mean for the fetch and power if the wave is far away

Answer 2

The longer the fetch and the strong the power because it has picked up speed from the wind as it travels

Question 3

Describe a constructive wave

Answer 3

• spilling waves
• strong swash
• 6-8 waves per minute
• Low wavelength and less than 1m high

Question 4

Describe a destructive wave

Answer 4

• Plunging waves
• Strong backwash destroys cliffs and beaches in the winter
• 13-15 waves per minute
• Higher wavelength usually 6m

Question 5

What affects the power of a wave?

Answer 5

• The wind
• The distance a wave has travelled
• The type of wave