Waves and Tides

Question 1

waves are created by …

Answer 1

energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion

Question 2

waves are most commonly caused by ..

Answer 2

wind

Question 3

describe the formation of wind driven waves

Answer 3

wind driven waves are driven by fictional drag between wind and surface water.
as wind blows across the surface of the ocean, the continual disturbance causes a wave crest.
as the wave approaches the shore disturbance to the circular motion beneath the surface leads to more horizontal wave movement and the wave breaks

Question 4

where is the strongest wind direction in the UK and implications of this

Answer 4

south west - where the fetch is longest - so is a high energy coastline - so lots of erosion

Question 5

features of constructive waves (5)

Answer 5

adds material to coastline
low wave with long wavelength 
strong swash 
never reach back of the beach 
formed by distant weather systems

Question 6

features of destructive waves

Answer 6

tall in relation to length
erosion
common in winter
strong backwash

Question 7

tides definition

Answer 7

tides are periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon

Question 8

what is a spring tide and how is it caused

Answer 8

is an exceptionally high tide as the moon is line with the sun making the gravitational pull stronger. has a high tidal range (lower low tide and a higher high tide)

Question 9

what are neap tides and how are they caused

Answer 9

neap tides are very low tides as the moon is at a 90 degree angle to the sun - they are pulling in different directions so a weaker over all gravitational pull

Question 10

two types of tides

Answer 10

neap tide and spring tide

Question 11

tidal range definition

Answer 11

the tidal range is the difference in height between the high and low tide marks

Question 12

features of a high energy coastline

Answer 12

erosion exceeds deposition
many examples in cornwall
cliffs and headlands
rocky coastlines

Question 13

features of low energy coastlines

Answer 13

deposition exceeds erosion
beaches and spits are found here
less powerful waves
sheltered areas (eg bays)

Question 14

why is a large tidal range important

Answer 14

important for providing energy via tidal currents and in the transportation of sediment

Question 15

why is a small tidal range important

Answer 15

important for concentrated erosion at the cliff base