Waves

Question 1

What factors affect wave size?

Answer 1

Strength of wind
Duration the wind blows
Wave fetch
Water depth

Question 2

What is the fetch?

Answer 2

The distance the wind travels over the water

Question 3

Wavelength definition

Answer 3

Distance between wave crests

Question 4

Crest definition

Answer 4

Highest part of wave

Question 5

Trough definition

Answer 5

Lowest part of a wave

Question 6

Wave height definition

Answer 6

Distance between crest and trough

Question 7

Stages of wave formation

Answer 7

Wind makes ripples and sea waves
Pushes water particles in circular motion
Friction causes circular motion to turn into oval
Then crashes and breaks due to gravity

Question 8

Constructive wave characteristics

Conditions, height, length, waves per minute, swash/backwash, effect on beach gradient

Answer 8

Calm weather conditions 
Flat and low
Long wavelength
Swash > backwash
6-8 waves per min
Deposit more sediment
Increase beach gradient

Question 9

Destructive wave characteristics

Conditions, height, length, waves per minute, swash/backwash, effect on beach gradient

Answer 9

Stormy conditions 
Tall and steep
Short wavelength
More erosion
Backwash > swash
13-15 waves per min
Reduce beach gradient