Waves Flashcards
What factors contribute in making a powerful wave?
First, the wind speed must be blowing faster than the transfer of energy from wave crest to wave crest. The second factor is the amount of time the wind blows, or wind duration. The third factor is the fetch, the uninterrupted distance over the sea for which the wind blows without a change in direction.
What are Constructive waves?
They are created in calm weather and are less powerful than destructive waves.
They break on the shore and deposit material, building up beaches.
They have a swash that is stronger than the backwash.
They have a long wavelength, and are low in height.
What is a destructive wave?
Destructive waves are created in storm conditions.
They are created from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful and has been blowing for a long time.
They occur when wave energy is high and the wave has travelled over a long fetch.
They tend to erode the coast.
They have a stronger backwash than swash.
They have a short wave length and are high and steep.
Where in the uk has the biggest waves? Why?
Newquay, north Cornwall. Because of where it is located the prevailing winds which cove from America have traveled for a long time which allows them to pickup speed and get bigger.
How does mass movement break a cliff down?
When there is a lot of loose mud or rocks on a cliff all the mass could slip down the steep slope affecting the cliff
How does rock fall shape cliffs?
When big rocks fall down the cliff they hit the cliff repeatedly eroding it
Long shore drift?
The transport of sand and pebbles along the coast is called longshore drift. The prevailing wind (the direction the wind ususally blows from) causes waves to approach the coast at an angle. The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle (usually 45º). Groins gan be placed in to collect sand and build up beaches.