Waves Flashcards
What type of waves have a low height and frequency?
Constructive waves
What type of waves have a short wavelength?
Destructive waves
Name 4 characteristics of constructive waves.
(Any 4 of the following)
Low wave height.
Long wavelength.
Low frequency.
Swash > backwash.
Sediment accumulation.
Gentle spill.
Steep wave front.
Forms berms.
Name 4 characteristics of destructive waves.
(Any 4 of the following)
High wave height.
High wave frequency.
Steep wave form.
Backwash > swash.
Sediment removal.
Steep form, plunge down.
Forms storm beaches.
What does shallow water do to waves?
Waves drag in shallow water, which increases wave height, steepness and shortens wavelength.
What does deep water do to waves?
Allows waves to move faster (in comparison to shallower water) and causes the wave to bend.
Where is wave energy concentrated on a concordant coastline where wave refraction is present?
On the headlands, causing greater erosion there.
What happens to waves that experience wave refraction?
On coasts with irregular shape, waves become refracted and increasingly parallel to the respective coastline.
What happens in bays that undergo wave refraction?
Low-energy waves spill into the bay resulting in beach deposition.
Eroded material from headlands may also end up accumulating in neighbouring bays.
How are berms formed?
Constructive waves slowly, but constantly build up the beach front, forming ridges up the beach.
What is a storm beach?
A large ridge located at the back of the beach, forming a steep beach profile.
