Waves Flashcards

Powerpoint Lesson 3 on Showbie

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1
Q

What is a wave?

A

Waves are a disturbance on the surface of the sea or ocean in the form of a moving ridge or swell

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2
Q

What are the main reason for changes on the coast?

A

Waves

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3
Q

Where do waves come from?

A

Waves are created by the action of the wind blowing over the sea or ocean.

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4
Q

What weather element makes a wave bigger?

A

Wind Speed

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5
Q

What are the 3 factors that depend the size & energy of the wave

A
  1. The fetch - How far the wind has
    come
  2. The strength of the wind
  3. How long the wind has been
    blowing for
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6
Q

What is the Trough?

A

The lowest part of the wave

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7
Q

What is the crest?

A

The highest part of the wave

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8
Q

What is the wavelength?

A

The distance between 2 successive crests

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9
Q

What is the Circular Motion?

A

Waves have a circular or orbit motion

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10
Q

What is the wave height?

A

The vertical difference between the trough and the crest

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11
Q

What is the still water level?

A

The level of the sea if there is no wind. So no waves

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12
Q

What is the wave frequency?

A

The number of waves breaking on a beach per minute

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13
Q

What is a swash?

A

The rush of sea water up the beach after the breaking of a wave

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14
Q

What is backwash?

A

The flow of seawater back down the beach and into the sea.

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15
Q

Name the two types of Wave

A
  1. Constructive Wave
  2. Destructive Wave
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16
Q

What is a constructive wave?

A

A wave that BUILDS the beach

17
Q

What is a destructive wave?

A

A wave that removes material from a beach
causes damage

18
Q

Name the features of a destructive wave

A
  1. High wave height
  2. Short wave length
  3. Weak swash
  4. Powerful backwash
19
Q

Name the features of a constructive wave

A
  1. Low wave height
  2. long wave length
  3. powerful swash (pushes things up the beach)
  4. Weak backwash