Wave types and characteristics Flashcards
what are waves normally caused by and what are the exceptions?
-waves are caused by the wind
-the exceptions are tidal waves/tsunamis which are caused by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, land slides or cliff collapses
what are the factors that energy acquired by waves depends on?
-wind velocity
-how long the wind has blown for
-the length of the fetch
what is a fetch?
this is the maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow ie how far the wave has come
swash
wave going up a beach
backwash
wave going down a beach
wavelength
the distance between corresponding points on a wave e.g. crest to crest
waveheight
distance from a crest to a trough vertically
amplitude
distance from equilibrium level to either the crest or trough
equilibrium level
halfway between crest and a trough
crest
top of a wave
trough
lowest point on a wave
what are the types of waves?
-destructive
-constructive
destructive wave
strong backwash and weak swash
constructive wave
weak backwash and strong swash
what is the wavelength of destructive waves?
short
what is the wavelength of constructive waves?
long
what is the wave height of destructive waves?
high
what is the wave height of constructive waves?
low
what is the wave frequency of destructive waves?
high
what is the wave frequency of constructive waves?
low
what is the strength of backwash of destructive waves?
strong
what is the strength of backwash of constructive waves?
weak
what is the strength of swash of destructive waves?
weak
what is the strength of swash of constructive waves?
strong
is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during destructive waves?
loss
is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during constructive waves?
gain
what are the beach features of destructive waves?
steep becoming more gentle
what are the beach features of constructive waves?
gentle becoming steeper
at a steep beach what wave is more likely to occur?
destructive waves
at steep beaches what is the backwash like?
strong
at steep beaches what is the swash like and why?
it’s weak as it slows it down more quickly
at a gentle beach what wave is more likely to occur?
constructive
at gentle beaches what is the backwash like?
weak
at gentle beaches what is the swash like and why?
it’s strong as the beach doesn’t slow it down
