Wave types and characteristics

Question 1

what are waves normally caused by and what are the exceptions?

Answer 1

-waves are caused by the wind
-the exceptions are tidal waves/tsunamis which are caused by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, land slides or cliff collapses

Question 2

what are the factors that energy acquired by waves depends on?

Answer 2

-wind velocity
-how long the wind has blown for
-the length of the fetch

Question 3

what is a fetch?

Answer 3

this is the maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow ie how far the wave has come

Question 4

swash

Answer 4

wave going up a beach

Question 5

backwash

Answer 5

wave going down a beach

Question 6

wavelength

Answer 6

the distance between corresponding points on a wave e.g. crest to crest

Question 7

waveheight

Answer 7

distance from a crest to a trough vertically

Question 8

amplitude

Answer 8

distance from equilibrium level to either the crest or trough

Question 9

equilibrium level

Answer 9

halfway between crest and a trough

Question 10

crest

Answer 10

top of a wave

Question 11

trough

Answer 11

lowest point on a wave

Question 12

what are the types of waves?

Answer 12

-destructive
-constructive

Question 13

destructive wave

Answer 13

strong backwash and weak swash

Question 14

constructive wave

Answer 14

weak backwash and strong swash

Question 15

what is the wavelength of destructive waves?

Answer 15

short

Question 16

what is the wavelength of constructive waves?

Answer 16

long

Question 17

what is the wave height of destructive waves?

Answer 17

high

Question 18

what is the wave height of constructive waves?

Answer 18

low

Question 19

what is the wave frequency of destructive waves?

Answer 19

high

Question 20

what is the wave frequency of constructive waves?

Answer 20

low

Question 21

what is the strength of backwash of destructive waves?

Answer 21

strong

Question 22

what is the strength of backwash of constructive waves?

Answer 22

weak

Question 23

what is the strength of swash of destructive waves?

Answer 23

weak

Question 24

what is the strength of swash of constructive waves?

Answer 24

strong

Question 25

is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during destructive waves?

Answer 25

loss

Question 26

is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during constructive waves?

Answer 26

gain

Question 27

what are the beach features of destructive waves?

Answer 27

steep becoming more gentle

Question 28

what are the beach features of constructive waves?

Answer 28

gentle becoming steeper

Question 29

at a steep beach what wave is more likely to occur?

Answer 29

destructive waves

Question 30

at steep beaches what is the backwash like?

Answer 30

strong

Question 31

at steep beaches what is the swash like and why?

Answer 31

it's weak as it slows it down more quickly

Question 32

at a gentle beach what wave is more likely to occur?

Answer 32

constructive

Question 33

at gentle beaches what is the backwash like?

Answer 33

weak

Question 34

at gentle beaches what is the swash like and why?

Answer 34

it's strong as the beach doesn't slow it down