Wave types and characteristics Flashcards

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1
Q

what are waves normally caused by and what are the exceptions?

A

-waves are caused by the wind
-the exceptions are tidal waves/tsunamis which are caused by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, land slides or cliff collapses

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2
Q

what are the factors that energy acquired by waves depends on?

A

-wind velocity
-how long the wind has blown for
-the length of the fetch

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3
Q

what is a fetch?

A

this is the maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow ie how far the wave has come

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4
Q

swash

A

wave going up a beach

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5
Q

backwash

A

wave going down a beach

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6
Q

wavelength

A

the distance between corresponding points on a wave e.g. crest to crest

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7
Q

waveheight

A

distance from a crest to a trough vertically

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8
Q

amplitude

A

distance from equilibrium level to either the crest or trough

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9
Q

equilibrium level

A

halfway between crest and a trough

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10
Q

crest

A

top of a wave

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11
Q

trough

A

lowest point on a wave

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12
Q

what are the types of waves?

A

-destructive
-constructive

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13
Q

destructive wave

A

strong backwash and weak swash

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14
Q

constructive wave

A

weak backwash and strong swash

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15
Q

what is the wavelength of destructive waves?

A

short

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16
Q

what is the wavelength of constructive waves?

A

long

17
Q

what is the wave height of destructive waves?

A

high

18
Q

what is the wave height of constructive waves?

A

low

19
Q

what is the wave frequency of destructive waves?

A

high

20
Q

what is the wave frequency of constructive waves?

A

low

21
Q

what is the strength of backwash of destructive waves?

A

strong

22
Q

what is the strength of backwash of constructive waves?

A

weak

23
Q

what is the strength of swash of destructive waves?

A

weak

24
Q

what is the strength of swash of constructive waves?

A

strong

25
Q

is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during destructive waves?

A

loss

26
Q

is there a gain or loss of beach sediment during constructive waves?

A

gain

27
Q

what are the beach features of destructive waves?

A

steep becoming more gentle

28
Q

what are the beach features of constructive waves?

A

gentle becoming steeper

29
Q

at a steep beach what wave is more likely to occur?

A

destructive waves

30
Q

at steep beaches what is the backwash like?

A

strong

31
Q

at steep beaches what is the swash like and why?

A

it’s weak as it slows it down more quickly

32
Q

at a gentle beach what wave is more likely to occur?

A

constructive

33
Q

at gentle beaches what is the backwash like?

A

weak

34
Q

at gentle beaches what is the swash like and why?

A

it’s strong as the beach doesn’t slow it down