UNIT 3 Flashcards
CAA
computer aided administration
data is collected and accessed quickly to assist information management
stock control
monitoring people in the workplace
PPC
production planning and control
plans all aspects of manufacturing including materials, scheduling machines and people etc
COSHH
the law that requires employers to control substances that are hazardous to health
common substances that are harmful
paint, bleach, or dust from natural materials
what accounts for 80% of reported injuries
slips and trips
musculoskeletal
struck by moving objects
machinery
flatbed fusing press
two horizontal metal plates between which the fabric and interlining laminate are sandwiched
continuous fusing systems
passing a garment part, with its interlining placed on it, past a heat source and applying pressure
how is heat provided in a continuous fusing system
direct heating on a heated surface
indirect heating (heated chamber)
low temp gradient heating (reduces shrinking)
high frequency fusing
like continuous fusing systems but using high frequency energy like microwaves to heat through more layers at once
specialised fusing presses
flatbed fusing press
continuous fusing systems
high frequency fusing
steam press
this is for when the garment is completed as it provides uniormity
disadvantages of using a hand iron
the operator has to guess the time, they don’t know what temp is needed, and can’t apply pressure evenly
EDI
electronic data interchange
the structured transmission of data between organisations by electronic means e.g. emails
data control
EDP
electronic data processing
the use of automated methods to process commercial data e.g. EPOS
QRM
quick response manufacture
emphasises the benefits of reducing the time taken in manufacture
CIM
computer integrated manufacturing
the manufacturing approach of using computers to control the entire production process
communication between different departments
automatic blade cutting
numerically controlled knives cut multiple piles with accuracy
laser cutting
a powerful beam of light projected onto a small area to cut the fabric
lesser-beam cutting
concentrated light beam controlled by a computer (one layer of fabric cut)
water jet cutting
propelling a tiny jet of water through fabric at a high pressure to cut
fully manual methods of cutting
hand operated scissor
manually operated power knife
straight knife, band knife, round knife, die cutting, notcher, drill
mercerising
the yarn is treated to improve its strength, lustre, and receptivity to dye
what affects the strength of a dye colour
amount of time in dye bath absorbency of fibres original fabric colour concentration of the dye colour in the dye bath effective use of mordant or fixative
methods screen printing
manual flat bed screen printing
industrial flatbed screen printing
rotary screen printing
hand produced batik
draw design with melted wax onto undyed fabric, when wax is hard dye or paint the fabric, iron between sheets of absorbent paper to remove wax
industrial produced batik
print dye to use as a resist, dye fabric, use heat finishing to remove the resin, fix the dye
use of machines to make it quicker
JET dying
fabrics sewn to form a continuous band and the fabric is moved by a high pressure jet of dye
semi-continuous dyeing
for colours that do not need to be changed quickly
fabric wound up onto a batching roller where it’s fixed
JIG dyeing machine
for fabrics that cannot be creased
how are fabrics (piece goods) dyed?
using the winch machine, fabric sewn to form a continuous band
used for lightweight woven and knitted fabrics
continuous dyeing
for colours that do not need to change too quickly
colour fastness
resistance of the material’s colour fading
international standard for fastness
ISO 105
list some decorative techniques
block printing sublimation inkjet printing stencilling embroidery quilting
spin dyeing
man made fibres are dyed while still liquid
stock dyeing
fibres are dyed
yarn dyeing
yarns dyed
piece dyeing
pieces of fabric
garment dyeing
when it’s finished
cross dyeing
two different fibres that react differently to dyeing for effect
global manufacture
when more than one country is involved in the production and processing of a product
continuous production
used to produce very high volume textiles products such as fibres, yarns, or fabrics
cellular manufacture
horseshoe, oval, or circular positions enables quick movement between stages
where is cellular manufacture used?
fashion/high street
cost of cellular manufacture
low cost to set up
higher product costing
use of ICT in cellular manufacture
EDI and QRM
straight-line manufacture
work is passed from one worker to the next until the product is finished and moved to other places in the factory such as finishing and pressing
progressive bundle system
garment components in bundles
synchro system
stages of work are in tune/depend on each other
UPS
unit production system in response to fashion changes expensive to set up also called overhead production system Monsters inc
where is a progressive bundle system used
high volume staple products such as shirts
cost of progressive bundle system
high to set up but medium cost of the product
use of ICT in progressive bundle systems
CIM and PPC
where is a synchro system used?
mass products like t-shirts
cost of a synchro system
high to set up but low product cost
use of ICT in a synchro system
CIM ad CNC
JIT
just in time manufacture
actual orders provide a signa for when a product is manufactured
advantages of JIT
lower stock holding means a reduction in storage which saves insurance and rent costs
less working capital is tied up in stock
less likelihood of stock perishing
avoids the build-up of unsold finished products
disadvantages of JIT
little room for mistakes as minimal stock
production is reliant on suppliers (if stock not delivered on time the whole system is delayed)
no spare products to meet any unexpected orders
One-off
a make through system designed for the assembly of one-off bespoke clothing and would be the most suitable system for haute couture
advantages of one-off production
individual and innovative
changes can be made to item at every stage
disadvantages of one-off production
time consuming
expensive
needs experienced proffessionals
mass production
identical products using standardised materials, components, flat patterns, equipment, and manufacturing processes
examples of some products made from mass production
yarns, underwear, uniforms, technical textiles
advantages of mass manufacture
quick and cheap
disadvantages of mass production
tighter quality control is needed
higher cost when machines fail
can’t respond to market changes
reasons for adding a finish
safer last longer change/improve appearance fabrics' reactions to different environments easier to care for how the fabric feels
mechanical finishes
raising/brushing calendering shrinking framing shearing/cropping pressing pleating
raising/brushing
fabric is passed over rollers covered with fine flexible wire brushes, these lift the fibres off the fabric to create a nap
effects of raising/brushing a fabric
warm and soft feel
dangers of raising/brushing a fabric
the fabrics must not be lifted too much as the fabric can be weakened
calendering
fabric is passed between heated rollers under pressure
effects of calendering
smooth the surface and comfact the fabric
improve the lustre
chintz
fabric is impregnated with a resin to make it feel firm and lusturous
moire
water-mark pattern is produced
types of calendering
chintz
moire
embossing
embossing
engraved calender rollers
method of shrinking
fabric is steamed and allowed to relax on a vibrating table without tension, the fibres swell and make the fabric shrink in length and width
reasons for applying shrinking as a finish
the fabric is made to shrink so that it will not shrink later
framing
stretching on a senter frame to achieve correct and uniform width and smoothness
what fabrics is framing used for
all types of fabric
shearing/cropping
removes short hairs to make a level and uniform pile
pressing (finish)
smoothing using heated pressing plates - not rollers
pleating
permanent creases using heat setting for synthetics
give some examples of chemical finishes
water repellent anti static hygienic anti-pilling felting moth proofing
ways of applying a chemical finish: coating
the application of polymer resins to either the face or the back of the fabric to produced enhanced properties like easy care
ways of applying a chemical finish: laminating
layering two or more different materials, these are bound together by adhesive
trademark name for water-repellent finish
teflon
trademark name for stain resistant finish
scotchgard
trademark name for flame resistant finish
proban
trademark name for hygienic chemical finish
sanitized
trademark name for easy care finish
sanfor plus
uses for water repellent finish
all weather clothing, tents, awnings etc
uses for stain resistant finish
carpets, tablecloths
what type of fabric uses an antistatic finish
synthetic fibres
end uses for flame resistant finish
furnishing fabrics
end uses for hygienic finish
fabrics for hospitals
what type of fabric uses a rot proofing sinish
natural fabrics especially in technical textiles
what type of fabric uses an anti pilling finish
wool and synthetics
what type of fabric uses an easy care finish
cotton and viscose
what type of fabric uses a felting finish
wool and animal hairs
what type of fabric uses an anti-felting finish
wool
what type of fabric uses a moth-proofing finish
wool
procedure for applying a water-repellent finish
spraying with water repellent chemicals e.g. silicones
procedure for applying an antistatic finish
conductivity enhancement
objective of applying a flame resistant finish
makes the fabric difficult to ignite
objective for applying a rot proofing finish
protection from organisms that promote decomposition
objective for applying an easy care finish
reduces sensitivity to moisture and creasing
TQM
total quality management system
assures that all products are made of the same quality
ISO 9000
successful companies are awarded the international standard of quality
CCPs
critical control points
where quality control checks take place
examples of CCPs
raw materials
prototype
production
final product
BSI kitemark
the symbol that gives consumers the assurance that the product they have bought really does conform to the appropriate British Standards and should therefore be safe and reliable
CE mark
products such as new toys must meet legal requirements before being sold to the european community
the lion mark
standards for toy safety
examples of CAM
fabric printing, knitting, weaving, pattern drafting, grading, robotic control for garment construction, fabric cutting, controlled decoration, controlled construction, controlled pressing
examples of CAD
design of fabrics, products, colour ways, modelling, patterns
british standard for flammability of nightwear
BS 5722
QA
quality assurance
manufacturers and retailers to customers
QC
quality control
what they do in the factory
what to do if they find a fault
NACERAP Name Appearance Cause Effect Repair Action Prevention
production systems are named according to…
number of machines
machine layout
number of operators
make through system
one person makes a one-off product
positive for the workers for a make through system
more interesting as doing lots of different jobs
has a broader skill base
drawbacks for a worker in a make through system
increased amount of pressure - if you get it wrong it’s your fault
positive for workers in a progressive bundle system
becomes very highly skilled
can see quality easily
drawbacks for workers in a progressive bundle system
only got one skill
relying on other people to get it right
feel isolated
positive for workers in a team based production system
teams rewarded
organised to promote positive working
team!!! not the individual
negatives for workers in a team based production system
pressure - you don’t want to be the one to let the team down
CNC
computer numerical control
controls all machinery
EPOS
electronic point of sale
up to date stock control
CMT
cutting, making, trimming
manufacturer does it all (not sub-assembly)
HLCC
home laundering consultative council
they do the care labels
