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Textiles > UNIT 2 > Flashcards

UNIT 2 Flashcards

1
Q

one off production

A

expensive, made-to-measure, highly skilled workers

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2
Q

mass production

A

products that don’t change with fashion, identical, cost effective

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3
Q

progressive bundle system

A

teams produce parts of a garment to be passed onto the next team

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4
Q

EPOS

A

electronic point of sale, tills in the shops which give details of what is being sold

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5
Q

QRM

A

quick response manufacturing, produces garments quickly in response to customer demand

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6
Q

What does a fashion designer do?

A

creating designs by hand or CAD, keeping up-to-date with trends, work with buyers and forecasters to develop products

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7
Q

what does a retail buyer have to consider before buying?

A

customer demand, market trends, store policy

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8
Q

What does a merchandiser do?

A

ensure products appear at the right store a the right time, accurately forecast trends, plan stock levels

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9
Q

what does a fabric and garment technologist do?

A

works on the design, development, and production of fibres, yarns, and textiles

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10
Q

what does a visual merchandiser do?

A

design displays - window and in-store

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11
Q

fad

A

catch on well and peak quickly

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12
Q

example of a fad

A

jeggings

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13
Q

classic

A

practical, easy to use products that are always needed

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14
Q

example of a classic product

A

tights

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15
Q

standard product life cycle

A

most fashion products follow a standard cycle lasting about two years

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16
Q

example of a product with a standard life cycle

A

pencil skirt

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17
Q

characteristics of niche markets

A

large enough to be profitable, has demand growth potential, sufficiently differenciated

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18
Q

advantages of niche markets

A

less competition, clear focus, requires fewer resources

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19
Q

disadvantages of niche markets

A

lack of economies of scale, attracts competition, small number of customers

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20
Q

economy of scale

A

buy more so get it cheaper

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21
Q

examples of niche markets

A

industrial clothing, hoppy clothing, subculture clothing

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22
Q

ecommerce

A

refers to the buying and selling over the internet

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23
Q

examples of ethical issues

A

body image, fur, cultures

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24
Q

negative effects of major developments in textiles technology

A

more products so bad on environment
throwaway fashion
less employment so bad for economy
ethical issues (pressure to make garments cheaper so pay people less)

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25
Q

trickle down effect

A

style adopted by top of society and lower people try to copy it but once the lower people have it the top people don’t want it

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26
Q

example of trickle down effect

A

Burberry’s iconic check was easily copied and sold cheaply so now is rarely used

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27
Q

example of a trade fair

A

Premiere Vision, held twice a year in Paris

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28
Q

eco-fashion

A

clothes that take into account the environment, the health of consumers, and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry

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29
Q

risk assesment

A

identifying the risks and putting control systems in place to minimise the risk of injury or accident

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30
Q

HSE

A

(the health and safety executive) advises people of health and safety and sets regulations that employers must follow

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31
Q

BS5722

A

flammability of fabrics used in sleepwear and dressing gowns

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32
Q

performance textiles

A

for outdoor pursuits or sport - specific end use eg skiing or swimming

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33
Q

what is vivienne westwood best known for?

A

setting off the punk trend and being generally shocking and controversial

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34
Q

major developments in fibre production

A

non traditional fibre sources such as pineapple leaf

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35
Q

major developments in yarn production

A

heat treatments on yarn to give texture such as crimping or bulking

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36
Q

biomimetrics

A

fabrics that imitate nature

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37
Q

example of biomimetrics

A

fastskin by speedo - fabric for swimwear that acts like shark skin

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38
Q

the age of opulence

A

1900-1910

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39
Q

the health corset

A

invented by a french woman

confined the waist even more than before

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40
Q

s-bend

A

edwardian + heavily corseted

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41
Q

t-shape silhouette

A

huge hats and slimmer and straighter dresses

1908 ish

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42
Q

Paul Poiret

A

1900-1910

got rid of the corset

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43
Q

Boer war influence on fashion

A

1900-1910

men wore their uniforms to social events

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44
Q

fashion of the flappers

A

cloche hats, bobbed hair, short skirts

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45
Q

handbags in 1900-1910

A

women didn’t generally carry handbags

small, decorative, hung on delicate straps from the wrist

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46
Q

influence of the suffragettes in 1900-1910

A

tailored jackets and trousers called a tailor-made as more practical and masculine

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47
Q

Role of women in 1900-1910

A

Role as ornaments

Highly impractical dress style

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48
Q

Hobble skirts

A

1910-1920

Narrow at hem so women could only take small steps

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49
Q

An influential designer for 1910-1920 decade and his influences

A

Poiret

Art and design of the Middle East and India as seen with his Turkish skirt and harem skirt

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50
Q

Pneumonia blouse

A

1913

V neck neckline - the doctors warned it was a danger to health

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51
Q

How did dancing affect fashion in 1910-1920? And what types of dance were most popular?

A

Tango dress

Ragtime dance needed easy fitting dresses

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52
Q

Impact of WW1 on fashion

A

Skirts shorter

A lot of women having to work so styles were more practical

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53
Q

Chanel in 1910-1920

A

In 1916 her simple tops, skirts, and chemise dresses were popular

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54
Q

ethical issues in fashion

A 
body image
fur
cultures
consumption
environment
advertising
forgeries
sweatshops
inequality
blood diamonds
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55
Q

what does a colourist do

A

resourcing colours and producing mood boards

producing colour stories for the future

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56
Q

product classification groups

A

furnishing textiles
industrial textiles
performance textiles

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57
Q

geotextiles

A

permeable membranes made mainly from synthetic fibres, used in contact with soil or rocks in the construction of roads etc

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58
Q

examples of japanese designers

A

rei kawakubo
issey miyake
yohji yamamoto

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59
Q

examples of textiles designers

A

zika ascher
bronwy bancroft
sigrun berg

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60
Q

examples of young and british designers

A

j w anderson
charli cohen
molly goddard

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61
Q

describe the fashion of the edwardian era (1900-1910)

A

great ostentation and extravagance

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62
Q

men’s fashion 1900-1910

A

english gentlemen (correctly dressed)
kahki uniforms
uniforms for special occasions

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63
Q

influence of cinema and the russian ballet on fashion 1900-1910

A

interior decoration, jewellery, dress design more colourful

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64
Q

sports for women in 1900-1910

A

clothes more relaxed but by today’s standards still highly unsuitable

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65
Q

women’s hairstyles of the 1910s

A 
dutch bob (short and straight)
titus cut (wavy and feathery)
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66
Q

effect of ready made clothes in england and america 1910-1920

A

class distinction through dress was not quite so blatant

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67
Q

teenage dressing in 1910s

A

girls: called flappers
boys: more casual, use of home knitting

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68
Q

men’s fashion in 1910s

A

trench coat became popular by burberry’s of london

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69
Q

how was cinema an important influence on women in 1910s

A

heavily outlined eyes
sophisticated
headbands
long cigarette holders

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70
Q

dance in 1910s

A

jazz

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71
Q

why were there egyptian influences in the roaring twenties

A

the excavations of tutankhamen’s tomb

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72
Q

egyptian influences twenties

A

egyptian style motifs in embroidery on dresses, jackets, an coats

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73
Q

how high were the very short skirts of the twenties

A

5cm below the knee

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74
Q

new things in the twenties

A

cosmetics and sunbathing

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75
Q

garconne look

A

short, straight silhouette

deliberately flatten breasts

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76
Q

chanel in the twenties

A

use of jersey fabrics

little black dress

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77
Q

men’s fashion of the twenties

A

exaggeratedly wide flapping trousers known as oxford bags

literary and artistic figures eg cecil beaton had flamboyant style of dress that was not accepted

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78
Q

children’s fashio in the twenties

A

miniature versions of the adult fashions , simpler and easy fitting

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79
Q

mass entertainment in the twenties

A

charleston dance - glitter embroidered bodices

cinema where people copied the outfits

80
Q

popular cruises in the thirties

A

swimwear - introduction of the 2 piece swimming costume

81
Q

sportswear of the thirties

A

designed to cater for the functional needs of the sport rather than modifying basic day styles

82
Q

foxes in the thirties

A

fur trimming was popular, pair of foxes worn as accessories

83
Q

name an influential designer of the thirties and why they were innovative

A

schiaparelli - use of the zip fastener in haute couture

84
Q

what was schiaparelli influenced by

A

surrealistic art eg by salvador dali

as shown by shocking pink

85
Q

cinema stars who were admired for their fashion in the thirties

A

greta garbo and marlene dietrich

86
Q

children’s clothes in the thirties

A

girl’s outfits looked less like miniature versions of women’s fashions - dresses cut like a long button through shirt were popular

87
Q

men’s fashion in the thirties

A

inspired by the filmstars and sportsmen in the mass media of the time i.e. athletic wide shouldered figure

88
Q

what did balenciaga’s silhouette look like in the thirties

A

hourglass figure, longer skirts

89
Q

siren suits

A

all in one boiler suits worn by women and children in air raid shelters in ww2

90
Q

impact of ww2 on fashion

A

clothes and fabrics were rationed from 1941 onwards so make do and mend

91
Q

regulations on clothes in ww2

A

utility clothes (regulations introduced on the amount of material used and quality eg number of pockets)

92
Q

cc41

A

clothing control 1941

used in utility clothing

93
Q

british couture designers in the forties who designed special ranges of utility clothes

A

norman hartnell and digby morton

94
Q

american designers in the forties

A

american women needed practical clothes and their everyday outfits were based on interchangeable separates - idea began catching on in europe

95
Q

where did special teenage fashions begin in the forties

A

usa

96
Q

men’s fashion in the forties

A

american fashions dominated

wedge-shaped line: padded shoulders and wide straight trousers

97
Q

demob suit

A

when men were demobilised at the end of ww2 they were given a poor quality civilian suit

98
Q

dior’s new look

A

1947

99
Q

post war younger generation fashion

A

ww2
boys: casual t shirts
girls; either v full or v narrow skirts

100
Q

young men’s fashion in the forties

A

duffle coats and army surplus stuff

101
Q

influence of cycling in young women’s fashion in the forties

A

pedal pushers - trousers

102
Q

swimwear in the forties

A

the first bikini appeared named after the atomic bomb test at bikini atoll

103
Q

what did clothing manufactures focus on in the forties

A

the youth market

made young looking inexpensive dresses for summer

104
Q

when was nylon discovered and when was it used

A

discovered in 1929

commercially available in 1940 - used for stockings

105
Q

name two designers of the 50s and what their style was

A

dior and balenciaga

ultra feminine styles and a semi-fitted look

106
Q

basics of a woman’s wardrobe in the 50s

A

tailored clothes - suit jackets and matching skirts

107
Q

sheath dresses

A

50s, made of rayon, worn in the summer

108
Q

shoes of the 50s

A

stiletto heeled shoes

109
Q

evening dresses in the 50s

A

very full skirts to achieve victorian style silhouette

110
Q

men’s fashion in the 50s

A

slim ties, drainpipe trousers finished above the ankle

called teddy boys

111
Q

rock and roll stars of the 50s and their fashion

A

elvis, james dean

leather jackets, tshirts, blue jeans

112
Q

chanel in the 50s

A

classic suits and cardigan jackets

113
Q

the sack

A

1957 easier fitting dress that was short in length

114
Q

new synthetic fibres of the 50s

A

terylene, acrilan, bri-nylon, orlon

lycra in 1959

115
Q

trousers for women in the 50s

A

accepted as casual wear but not worn in offices or fancy restaurants

116
Q

fashion of the anti establishment views held in the late 50s

A

beatnik - short tight skirts, flannel shirts, denim jeans, leather jackets

117
Q

example of cult fashions in the 50s

A

yves saint laurent

118
Q

Explain the popularity of the Chanel suit in the 1960s

A

Interchangeable separates but still formal

119
Q

Explain the popularity of the shift dress of the 60s

A

Suited the arm and hip movements of the twist (dance craze) due to being sleeveless and unfitted line

120
Q

Types of trouser style in the sixties

A

Hipster

Bell bottom

121
Q

The western look 1960s

A

A lot of denim basically

122
Q

What were 1960s stretch trousers made from?

A

Wool and helanca or wool and bri-nylon to make them skin tight

123
Q

Use of leather in the sixties

A

Kinky leather gear (basically using leather for everything)

124
Q

Impact of PVC on the 60s

A

It was shiny and brightly coloured and less expensive and so the ‘wet-look’ became fashionable

125
Q

Explain unisex fashions of the sixties

A

Trousers and shirts of the same fabrics and colours were worn by men and women

126
Q

Impact of the Beatles on sixties fashion

A

Slim fitting, high fastening or collarless suits and jackets

127
Q

André Courrèges’ autumn 1964 collection

A

Space exploration

The mini skirt

128
Q

Pierre Cardin’s designs in the sixties

A

Futuristic with clean architectural designs

129
Q

Mary Quant in the 60s

A

Opened her first shop called bazaar in 1955

Shortened skirt lengths and used vibrant colours and stripes

130
Q

Reefer jackets

A

1960s

Double breasted jackets in flannel and gabardine

131
Q

Describe the boyish look of the 1960s

A

Simple tshirt dresses
Short hairstyles
Twiggy

132
Q

Dolly look of the 1969s

A

Skinny ribs (ribbed pullovers in pastel colours)
Lace
Pale colours

133
Q

Fashion photography in the 60s

A

In colour

Models jumping and running to fit the mood of the swinging sixties

134
Q

Popular fabrics of the sixties and why were they popular

A

Crimplene and trevira

Easy care

135
Q

Children’s clothes in the 1960s

A

Colourful
Knitted fabrics
Dungarees

136
Q

Describe menswear in the sixties

A

Peacock revolution (bc colourful)
Unisex
Suits and jackets still based on Italian shapes of the 50s
Shirt collars were small

137
Q

1960s: hippies and flower power, describe the look

A

Floor length kaftans
Beading
Flared
Loose fits

138
Q

1960s: the romantic look, describe the look

A

Crushed velvet

Frilly blouses

139
Q

Zhivago coats (also called maxi coats)

A

1960s

Lower calf and ankle length coats

140
Q

When were midis introduced and why were they largely unsuccessful?

A

1969s

Minis were still popular and new so people not ready to give them up

141
Q

Sports clothing in the sixties

A

Skiing holidays not exclusively for the wealthy anymore
Anoraks used for everyday wear
Bikinis became smaller

142
Q

What fashion item became popular in the seventies due to and increase in women’s self confidence

A

Hot pants

143
Q

Shoes of the seventies

A

Platform soles

144
Q

What did stylish young women wear in the seventies

A

Trousers suits

145
Q

Popular styles of trouser suits in the seventies

A

Flares and bags

146
Q

Fashion for men and women in the 70s

A

Unisex

147
Q

Children’s clothes in the 70s

A

Children’s market growing in importance so parents spending more than previous generations

148
Q

Young men’s fashion in the seventies

A

Large collared shirts
Wide kipper ties
Necklaces

149
Q

Most universally worn garment of the 70s

A

Blue denim jeans

150
Q

Styles of jeans in the 70s

A

Faded

Ragged hem

151
Q

Designer jeans in the 70s

A

Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, parry Ellis

152
Q

T-shirts in the 70s

A

Had names, slogans, messages on them etc

153
Q

Skinheads in the 70s

A

Bovver boots
Baggy trousers
Vest

154
Q

The clothing market in the 70s

A

Highly competitive
Look for new ways to cut costs
Manufacturing in India and Far East

155
Q

Laura Ashley in the seventies

A

Country style
Victorian prints
Ankle length skirts
Bodices

156
Q

Film and pop music in the seventies

A

Stars exaggerated or endorsed trends rather than starting new ones

157
Q

Middle East war 1973

A

Fuel prices rose

People had less money to spend on clothes

158
Q

Kenzo in the seventies

A

Ethnic look

Nostalgia for the 20s

159
Q

Layered look70s

A

Waistcoats and pullovers over long skirts with long capes or topcoats and long scarves with big boots

160
Q

Boiler suit 70s

A

Girls wore these well fitting suits in a variety of fabrics for special occasions as well as every day practical clothing

161
Q

Disco dancing 70s

A

Clothes allowed for more movement eg trousers

162
Q

Trouser shapes in the 70s

A

Narrow

Straight lines

163
Q

The Sloane ranger

A

Princess Diana 70s

Practical separates

164
Q

Punk fashion70s

A

Bondage trousers
Sex pistols
Vivienne Westwood

165
Q

Fiorucci 70s

A

Italian shop which sold punk clothing for the young

166
Q

Active sports 70s

A

Both sexes took up jogging so practical clothes was required

167
Q

Moon boots 70s

A

Modernistic shapes and fastenings

168
Q

Missoni 70s

A

Italian knitwear brand with artistic combinations or yarns stitches and colours

169
Q

Giorgio Armani 70s

A

Set new silhouettes for men’s wear

170
Q

The importance of the logo in the 80s

A

Money obsessed and image conscious
Competitive group of people
Called yuppies

171
Q

Armani in The eighties

A

Known for his menswear

172
Q

Influence of Margret thatcher in the eighties

A

Power suit for women

173
Q

Describe three of Vivienne Westwood’s eighties collections

A

Her collection ‘pirate’: Asymmetrical tshirts, breeches, big boots
Her collection ‘buffalo’: underwear as outerwear
Her ‘mini-crini’ collection: club dance wear

174
Q

Moschino style in the eighties

A

Influenced by surrealists

Tshirts with slogans like ‘for fashion victims’

175
Q

Katherine hamnett

A

80s

‘Choose life’ collection included tshirts like ‘58% don’t want Pershing’

176
Q

Who was an Important influence on menswear in the eighties

A

Paul Smith

177
Q

Princess Diana in the eighties

A

Wedding dress

178
Q

Japanese designers in the eighties

A

Miyake, Yamamoto, kawakubo

179
Q

Jean Paul gaultier 80s

A

Madonna’s conical cups

French designs

180
Q

American designers in the eighties

A 
Donna Karen (big city sophistication)
Norma kamali (cotton fleece tracksuit)
181
Q

what decade of fashion involved dressing down?

A

1990-2000

dress down fridays

182
Q

grunge look definition and designers

A

1990
mix of punk and hippie styles
marc jacobs and anna sui

183
Q

rap influence 1990s

A

hip hop styles

casual layered sportswear

184
Q

street style in the 1990s

A

vans, nike air jordans, timberland boots, adidas, puma

185
Q

important accessory in the 90s

A

handbags

186
Q

name a unisex style in the 90s

A

layering and grundge

187
Q

supermodels of the 90s

A

naomi cambell
claudia schiffer
featured in advertisements for versace jeans which became popular because of their involvement

188
Q

designers of the 90s that took inspiration from china and japan

A

alexander mcqueen, john gallioano, valentino, issey miyake

189
Q

antifashion attitude 90s

A

minimalistic

rifat ozbek

190
Q

sportswear style 90s

A

comfortable stretch fabrics and trainers

191
Q

alexander mcqueen in the 90s

A

highland rape collection 1995-96 tartans, chains, rips

192
Q

vivienne westwood in the 90s

A

historical designs which started the trend of handcrafted and traditional textiles

193
Q

katherine hamnett

A

endorsed environmentally friendly fabrics in the 90s

194
Q

characteristics of eco fashion in the 90s

A

natural fibres, hemp, birkenstock sandals, leather substitute

195
Q

lucy orta

A

refugee wear 1992 including sleeping bags and tents

196
Q

cyber fashions 1990s

A

science fiction, virtual reality, punk, rubber, pvc, and leather

197
Q

deconstruction style

A

antwerp six and ann demeulemeester

Textiles (3 decks)

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