Unit 2: Innovations and Emerging Textile Technologies

Question 1

Textile innovations

Answer 1

-Innovative Products: purpose is to meet consumer demands.

Innovative Process: purpose is to lower cost, increase production rates or improve quality.

Question 2

Use of Textiles to enhance performance.

Answer 2

Fibre (Microfibre), Yarn (Bicomponent Yarn) and Fabric innovation(Washable webs).

Question 3

Fibre Innovation Microfibre

Answer 3

• Microfibres: fibres less than one denier thick, created by modifying the spinning process or separating filaments by modifying the spinneret shape.
• A yarn made from microfibres may have as many as 4 times as many fibres as its regular equivalent.
• Colours are more vibrant in microfibre yarns due to the numerous filaments.
• Polyester, nylon, acrylic and rayon can be used for microfibres in both staple and filament form.

Question 4

How microfibre enhances performance of fabric and end-product

Answer 4

• Ultra-fine (finer than most delicate silks = very soft and comfortable, luxurious handelin, silken/suede touch.
• Lightweight.
• Extremely high drapability.
• Washable and dry-cleanable = shrink resistant.
• High strength (excluding rayon).
• Excellent heat-setting ability e.g pleat retention.
• Fine yarns packed tightly together = can create waterproof and resistant fabric without the use of synthetic resin coatings = insulates well against wind, rain and cold.

Question 5

End-uses

Answer 5

• Apparel: hosiery, blouses, dresses, sportswear, high-performance clothing, ties, scarves, menswear, intimate apparel, swimwear, rainwear.
• Furnishing: curtains, draperies, upholstery, sheets, towels, blankets.
• Cleaning products: the shape of the spinneret and the resulting extruded microfibre that makes microfibre clean efficiently. The wedge-shaped filaments follow the surface, lift up dirt and then trap the particles inside the fibres. The capillary effect between the filaments and nylon core creates a high absorbency, enabling a clean and polish effect.

Question 6

Impact of microfibre

Answer 6

Consumer and Society, Manufacturer, Employee, Environment.

Question 7

Consumer and Society

Answer 7

• Advantages: ‘Suede’ texture gives a soft feel so the fabric is appealing to touch = easier to care for and has luxurious drape. Suitable for travel as it is lightweight and resilient.. Due to its fineness, provides wearer with greater coverage and wind resistance. Easy to launder = can be gently machine, washed and dries quickly. Can be dyed in a variety of colours.
• Disadvantages: Pricey and may not be as absorbent or comfortable as natural fibres. Manufacturing of petrochemical fibres concerns the environmentally aware consumer. Consumer confusion – need for consumer education so they understand the differences between fibre properties and suitable end-uses.

Question 8

Manufacturer

Answer 8

• Advantages: Allows control over quality as fibres are engineered to meet desired performance. Allows manufacturers to combine microfibres with regenerated yarns and natural fibres for specific end-uses. Manufacturers may use a fabric finish such as an antibacterial finish to improve performance and enhance the fabric quality, improving its success in the marketplace.
• Disadvantages: Expensive to establish machinery. Employees must be trained to work with machinery. Takes away the market for other fibres such as fine silks and high-quality cottons.

Question 9

Employee

Answer 9

• Advantages: More job opportunities from new fibre technologies. Possible need for highly skilled labour to operate machinery, which could lead to higher incomes for employees.
• Disadvantages: Structural unemployment – for example, workers may be replaced with machines or more highly skilled labour. Work hazards – noise pollution, chemical pollution, dust.

Question 10

Environment

Answer 10

• Advantages: Not dependent on natural resources for its existence. Detergents and cleaning chemicals are not required in the manufacture or finishing of this product. Microfibre cleaning cloths eliminate the need for harmful cleansers.
• Disadvantages: Fabric production requires the operation of machinery, which uses energy, emits noise and in some cases air pollution, which may affect surrounding residential areas and natural ecosystems. Transport vehicles create air pollution. Carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere contributes to the greenhouse effect, which ultimately leads to global warming. Water waste and chemical residue may end up in river systems.

Question 11

Fibre Innovation: Bamboo

Answer 11

Bamboo: the fastest -growing woody plant, can be grown in conjunction with other crops e.g vegetables = beneficial for rural livelihood. Can be harvested 4 to 5 years after plantation and is excellent for restoring degraded land and protecting against soil erosion.

Question 12

How bamboo fibre is created

Answer 12

• Bamboo fibre is created similarly to regenerated cellulose fibre.
• Produced from bamboo palm using patented technology and high-tech processing.
• Bamboo processes: mechanical processing and chemical processing.
• Can be spun purely or blended with other materials , such as cotton, hemp, silk, modal and other manufactured fibres e.g polyester.
• Pure Bamboo: natural antimicrobial fibre, can thrive without the use of pesticides, containing an antimicrobial agent called bamboo kun. Fabric made for pure bamboo contains bamboo kun as it is bound closely to the bamboo cellulose molecular structure.
• The natural antibiosis functions of bamboo fibre means finished products do not require any artificial antimicrobial agent, therefore minimises skin allergies associated with chemical-finishing processes.

Question 13

Properties of Bamboo

Answer 13

Aesthetics, Durability, Comfort, Care, Eco-friendly, Protection from uv radiation.

Question 14

Aesthetics

Answer 14

• Lustre: natural sheen and a soft lustre.

- Drape: soft drape and silky softness.

Question 15

Durability

Answer 15

• Abrasion resistance: high - perfect to spin into lustrous, fine and strong yarns.
• Strength: very strong - has been compared to steel in strength.

Question 16

Comfort

Answer 16

• Absorbency: high degree - due to the cross section of the fibres which are filled with various micro-gaps and holes.
• Hydrophilic - absorbs more water than other conventional fibres e.g cotton. The microstructure enables the garment wearer to feel cool and comfortable ion hot conditions and warm in cool conditions.
• Elasticity: Resilient
• Dimensional stability: excellent

Question 17

Care

Answer 17

• Effect to chemicals: chlorine bleaches will yellow the fabric, gentle washing of garments with a mild detergent is cool to warm water is recommended, dry-cleaning is not recommended, can be dried in a machine dryer on cool setting but line drying is preferred.
• Sun resistance: stable to sunlight and line drying - although continual exposure will degrade the fibre. Ease of degradation = pure bamboo is highly praised for its eco-friendly nature and biodegradability.
• Colour Fastness: excellent, easily dyed as it is hydrophilic, reactive dyestuff are recommended due to bamboo’s lower wet tensile strength.
• Shrink resistance: excellent shrink resistance when cared for correctly.

Question 18

Eco-friendly

Answer 18

• Blended bamboo fibre products don’t share the same eco-friendly properties as pure bamboo.
• The more complex the blend the harder the fibre is to degrade.

Question 19

Protection from ultraviolet radiation

Answer 19

• Fibres made from pure bamboo fibre can absorb ultraviolet radiation in various wavelengths, thus reducing harm to the human body.

Question 20

Yarn Innovation: bicomponent yarn

Answer 20

• Bicomponent yarns consist of 2 filaments, staple or natural that are either chemically or physically different.
• 2 kinds of polymers are extruded together and spun as a multifilament. Because of the difference between, they create a crimp when exposed to heat. The filament will curl and assume a wave-like configuration.
• Complex cross-sections can be created using a spinneret with shaped holes, resulting in a yarn with desirable properties for a particular end-use.

Question 21

The production of Bicomponent yarns

Answer 21

• Side-by-side extrusion: The yarns are produced side by side.
• Core-and-sheath extrusion: The core yarn is produced in the middle, covered or
  sheathed by an outer yarn produced around the core yarn (polymer surrounded by another polymer).
• Biconstituent fibre extrusion: Fine fibrils of one polymeric substance are embedded
  in the matrix of another.

Question 22

How bicomponent yarns enhance performance of fabric and end-product

Answer 22

• They enhance performance potential, this is because the yarn is soft, lofty, bulky and inexpensive.
• They are light to medium weight, non-fray, very durable and abrasion resistant.

Question 23

End-uses

Answer 23

• Pantyhose, knitwear, knitting yarns, socks and baby wear.

- Alternatively: upholstery, floor coverings and speciality industrial fabrics for stabilising and for its handle.

Question 24

Impact if bicomponent yarns

Answer 24

Consumer and Society, Manufacturer, Employee, Environment.

Question 25

Consumer and society

Answer 25

• Advantages: Produce a bulking or crimping effect that is useful in the construction of stretch garments. New equipment and machinery reduces the time taken for processes, from fibre production to fabric finishing and garment assembly. Results in lower consumer price and increased supply and availability of product.
• Disadvantages: Fabrics made up solely of bicomponent yarns often do not have the desired visual effects, texture, soft hand, and stretch and recovery.

Question 26

Manufacture

Answer 26

• Advantages: Production of more desirable fabrics that consumers will want to purchase. High market share if advertised well as there would be a large demand for the yarns. Many methods to choose from; could be chosen according to cost-saving or ease of labour. In making colour items, colour concentrate is needed only for the outer component, thus reducing colouring costs.
• Disadvantages: Expenses of developing fibre components. Must train employees to work with machinery. Takes away the market for other fibres. Additional processing time and equipment that results in increased costs and capital expenses of setting up new equipment.

Question 27

Employee

Answer 27

• Advantages: Chance to be trained in more innovative techniques; skill acquisition. More job opportunities.
• Disadvantages: Less pay due to decreased skill/technical requirements. Decrease in human interaction. Changes to current work practices that may reduce job opportunities. Training depends on an employee’s skills and ability to be retrained.

Question 28

Environment

Answer 28

• Advantages: Clean, environmentally friendly, yarns are recyclable.
• Disadvantages: many of the chemical components are not biodegradable so cause pollution, adding to landfill.

Question 29

Fabric Innovation: Washable webs

Answer 29

• Washable webs refer to fabrics manufactured from non-woven sources. To create washable webs, webs of synthetic fibres are bonded together with heat or adhesives. The result is a cheap fabric, but it is not as strong as a woven or knitted fabric.
• Washable webs are easy to sew, crease resistant, do not fray, and are stable when washed or dry-cleaned.

Question 30

How washable webs enhance performance of fabric and end-product

Answer 30

• light to heavy in weight and can be engineered for specific end-uses
• does not fray.
• durable, abrasion resistant and highly absorbent.
• can withstand multiple wet applications.

Question 31

End-use

Answer 31

• Apparel – interlining, interfacing, clothing and glove insulation, bra and shoulder padding, handbags
• Non-apparel – nappies, blankets, industrial filters, teabag covers, Chux super wipes, Enjo, Enviro shopping bags
• Specialised apparel – medical textiles, surgical equipment, masks, gowns, head covers, feet covers
• Army apparel – uniforms, equipment, parachutes, tents, duffel bags, tarps, shelters.

Question 32

Impact of washable webs

Answer 32

Consumer and Society, Manufacturer, Employee, Environment.

Question 33

Consumer and society

Answer 33

• Advantages: Low cost, Does not fray, Crease resistant, Stable to washing and dry-cleaning.
• Disadvantages: Not lifelong, mostly single or limited-use products. Not as strong as knitted or woven, technological developments attempt to compete with this downfall.

Question 34

Manufacture

Answer 34

• Advantages: Cheap to produce. Can be combined with many fibres to create ‘super fabrics’ – medical membranes impermeable to blood and other bodily fluids. Many military applications.
• Disadvantages: low durability.

Question 35

Employee

Answer 35

• Advantages: Work is easier from new technology, less labour-intensive work needed to produce man- made fibres than needed for natural fibres. CAD and CAM, work rate quicker and easier, less manual felting.
• Disadvantages: Processes may use CAD and CAM technology rather than labour.

Question 36

Environment

Answer 36

• Advantages: Non-woven bags last longer than normal plastic bags; have almost replaced common plastic bags.
• Disadvantages: Waste product and landfill. Must take into account waste and disposal of medical textiles.