Unit 2: Innovations and Emerging Textile Technologies Flashcards
Unit 2: Properties and Performance
Textile innovations
-Innovative Products: purpose is to meet consumer demands.
Innovative Process: purpose is to lower cost, increase production rates or improve quality.
Use of Textiles to enhance performance.
Fibre (Microfibre), Yarn (Bicomponent Yarn) and Fabric innovation(Washable webs).
Fibre Innovation Microfibre
- Microfibres: fibres less than one denier thick, created by modifying the spinning process or separating filaments by modifying the spinneret shape.
- A yarn made from microfibres may have as many as 4 times as many fibres as its regular equivalent.
- Colours are more vibrant in microfibre yarns due to the numerous filaments.
- Polyester, nylon, acrylic and rayon can be used for microfibres in both staple and filament form.
How microfibre enhances performance of fabric and end-product
- Ultra-fine (finer than most delicate silks = very soft and comfortable, luxurious handelin, silken/suede touch.
- Lightweight.
- Extremely high drapability.
- Washable and dry-cleanable = shrink resistant.
- High strength (excluding rayon).
- Excellent heat-setting ability e.g pleat retention.
- Fine yarns packed tightly together = can create waterproof and resistant fabric without the use of synthetic resin coatings = insulates well against wind, rain and cold.
End-uses
- Apparel: hosiery, blouses, dresses, sportswear, high-performance clothing, ties, scarves, menswear, intimate apparel, swimwear, rainwear.
- Furnishing: curtains, draperies, upholstery, sheets, towels, blankets.
- Cleaning products: the shape of the spinneret and the resulting extruded microfibre that makes microfibre clean efficiently. The wedge-shaped filaments follow the surface, lift up dirt and then trap the particles inside the fibres. The capillary effect between the filaments and nylon core creates a high absorbency, enabling a clean and polish effect.
Impact of microfibre
Consumer and Society, Manufacturer, Employee, Environment.
Consumer and Society
- Advantages: ‘Suede’ texture gives a soft feel so the fabric is appealing to touch = easier to care for and has luxurious drape. Suitable for travel as it is lightweight and resilient.. Due to its fineness, provides wearer with greater coverage and wind resistance. Easy to launder = can be gently machine, washed and dries quickly. Can be dyed in a variety of colours.
- Disadvantages: Pricey and may not be as absorbent or comfortable as natural fibres. Manufacturing of petrochemical fibres concerns the environmentally aware consumer. Consumer confusion – need for consumer education so they understand the differences between fibre properties and suitable end-uses.
Manufacturer
- Advantages: Allows control over quality as fibres are engineered to meet desired performance. Allows manufacturers to combine microfibres with regenerated yarns and natural fibres for specific end-uses. Manufacturers may use a fabric finish such as an antibacterial finish to improve performance and enhance the fabric quality, improving its success in the marketplace.
- Disadvantages: Expensive to establish machinery. Employees must be trained to work with machinery. Takes away the market for other fibres such as fine silks and high-quality cottons.
Employee
- Advantages: More job opportunities from new fibre technologies. Possible need for highly skilled labour to operate machinery, which could lead to higher incomes for employees.
- Disadvantages: Structural unemployment – for example, workers may be replaced with machines or more highly skilled labour. Work hazards – noise pollution, chemical pollution, dust.
Environment
- Advantages: Not dependent on natural resources for its existence. Detergents and cleaning chemicals are not required in the manufacture or finishing of this product. Microfibre cleaning cloths eliminate the need for harmful cleansers.
- Disadvantages: Fabric production requires the operation of machinery, which uses energy, emits noise and in some cases air pollution, which may affect surrounding residential areas and natural ecosystems. Transport vehicles create air pollution. Carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere contributes to the greenhouse effect, which ultimately leads to global warming. Water waste and chemical residue may end up in river systems.
Fibre Innovation: Bamboo
Bamboo: the fastest -growing woody plant, can be grown in conjunction with other crops e.g vegetables = beneficial for rural livelihood. Can be harvested 4 to 5 years after plantation and is excellent for restoring degraded land and protecting against soil erosion.
How bamboo fibre is created
- Bamboo fibre is created similarly to regenerated cellulose fibre.
- Produced from bamboo palm using patented technology and high-tech processing.
- Bamboo processes: mechanical processing and chemical processing.
- Can be spun purely or blended with other materials , such as cotton, hemp, silk, modal and other manufactured fibres e.g polyester.
- Pure Bamboo: natural antimicrobial fibre, can thrive without the use of pesticides, containing an antimicrobial agent called bamboo kun. Fabric made for pure bamboo contains bamboo kun as it is bound closely to the bamboo cellulose molecular structure.
- The natural antibiosis functions of bamboo fibre means finished products do not require any artificial antimicrobial agent, therefore minimises skin allergies associated with chemical-finishing processes.
Properties of Bamboo
Aesthetics, Durability, Comfort, Care, Eco-friendly, Protection from uv radiation.
Aesthetics
- Lustre: natural sheen and a soft lustre.
- Drape: soft drape and silky softness.
Durability
- Abrasion resistance: high - perfect to spin into lustrous, fine and strong yarns.
- Strength: very strong - has been compared to steel in strength.
Comfort
- Absorbency: high degree - due to the cross section of the fibres which are filled with various micro-gaps and holes.
- Hydrophilic - absorbs more water than other conventional fibres e.g cotton. The microstructure enables the garment wearer to feel cool and comfortable ion hot conditions and warm in cool conditions.
- Elasticity: Resilient
- Dimensional stability: excellent
Care
- Effect to chemicals: chlorine bleaches will yellow the fabric, gentle washing of garments with a mild detergent is cool to warm water is recommended, dry-cleaning is not recommended, can be dried in a machine dryer on cool setting but line drying is preferred.
- Sun resistance: stable to sunlight and line drying - although continual exposure will degrade the fibre. Ease of degradation = pure bamboo is highly praised for its eco-friendly nature and biodegradability.
- Colour Fastness: excellent, easily dyed as it is hydrophilic, reactive dyestuff are recommended due to bamboo’s lower wet tensile strength.
- Shrink resistance: excellent shrink resistance when cared for correctly.
Eco-friendly
- Blended bamboo fibre products don’t share the same eco-friendly properties as pure bamboo.
- The more complex the blend the harder the fibre is to degrade.
Protection from ultraviolet radiation
- Fibres made from pure bamboo fibre can absorb ultraviolet radiation in various wavelengths, thus reducing harm to the human body.
Yarn Innovation: bicomponent yarn
- Bicomponent yarns consist of 2 filaments, staple or natural that are either chemically or physically different.
- 2 kinds of polymers are extruded together and spun as a multifilament. Because of the difference between, they create a crimp when exposed to heat. The filament will curl and assume a wave-like configuration.
- Complex cross-sections can be created using a spinneret with shaped holes, resulting in a yarn with desirable properties for a particular end-use.
The production of Bicomponent yarns
- Side-by-side extrusion: The yarns are produced side by side.
- Core-and-sheath extrusion: The core yarn is produced in the middle, covered or
sheathed by an outer yarn produced around the core yarn (polymer surrounded by another polymer). - Biconstituent fibre extrusion: Fine fibrils of one polymeric substance are embedded
in the matrix of another.
How bicomponent yarns enhance performance of fabric and end-product
- They enhance performance potential, this is because the yarn is soft, lofty, bulky and inexpensive.
- They are light to medium weight, non-fray, very durable and abrasion resistant.
End-uses
- Pantyhose, knitwear, knitting yarns, socks and baby wear.
- Alternatively: upholstery, floor coverings and speciality industrial fabrics for stabilising and for its handle.
Impact if bicomponent yarns
Consumer and Society, Manufacturer, Employee, Environment.