Unit 1: Historical Design and Development Flashcards
Unit 1 - Design
1
Q
Apparel in Ancient Times
A
Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, The Byzantine Empire, Normans
2
Q
Ancient Egyptians
A
- Garments were a length of fabric, wrapped around the body to create a shape of a garment, secured by tying fabric ends.
- Main Fabric: Linen - often translucent.
Women’s Clothing: veiled the body rather than concealing - Men’s Clothing: simple loincloth wrapped around the hips.
- Draped in ornate jewellery as decoration
3
Q
Ancient Greeks
A
- Chiton: a form of tunic that fastens at the shoulder.
- Consisting of 2 rectangular pieces joined at the shoulders, gathered into the body using a fabric tie.
- For Warmth: a rectangle of wool was wrapped and draped over the body, held in place at the shoulder or waist.
4
Q
Ancient Romans
A
- Tunic: a simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually knee-length or longer, belted at the waist.
- For warmth, a Toga: Consisted of a semicircle of woollen fabric, draped around the body.
- Women’s Clothing Similar to the greek chiton but made of silk or cotton.
5
Q
The Byzantine Empire
A
- Controlled the trade between the East and West.
- 552 CE: A silk industry started in Byzantium.
- Brocade: a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads.
- Clothing similar to Roman tunics, although decorated cloaks were worn instead of a toga.
- Ornate Silk fabrics were woven, ranging in varieties of colours, decorated with gold thread and precious stones.
6
Q
Normans
A
- Fur and Silk were big in Britain.
- Men’s Clothing: tunics reaching above the knee.
- Women’s Clothing: A shorter tunic, although it was layered and worn with a hood.
7
Q
Apparel from the 14th – 19th Centuries
A
The 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th, Early 19th, Late 19th Century.
8
Q
The 14th Century
A
- The Middle Ages was a time of great prosperity, this was reflected in the clothing.
- Garments were more elegant and practical using a variety of fabrics and embroidery (decoration).
- Significant difference between Women’s and mens clothing.
- Women’s Clothing: long gowns with close fitting undergarments. Men’s Clothing: close fitting tunic with knee-length skirts worn with a hose.
- Usually made of wool, though the wealthy used silk (including velvet and taffeta).
9
Q
The 15th Century
A
- Fabrics were more ornatE and extravagant.
- Garments were decorated with jewels, embroidered all-over with patterns, trimmed with fur and slashed and puffed.
- Slashing: cutting slits in the outer garment, allowing the colour of the inner clothing to be visible.
- Women’s Clothing: flowing dresses with huge sleeves, high collars, elaborate headpieces and long pointed shoes.
- Men’s Clothing: broad shoulders, large padded sleeves, tight jackets and padded thighs.
10
Q
The 16th Century
A
- Clothes in Europe at this time were made of sumptuous fabrics eg. patterned silk, velvets richly decorated in jewels, lace and lavish embroidery.
- Wealthy Men: cloaks with broad shoulders, flat hats, giving a square appearance.
- Shirt neck-frills developed to starch ruffs for both sexes, becoming larger, stiffened with wire and covered in silk or gold thread.
- Elizabethan era: a time of great wealth, expressed through clothing.
- Men’s Clothing: followed the fashion of Spain, wearing truck hose padded around their thighs like balloons, and doublets with high necks.
- Women’s Clothing: achieved the fashionable triangular shape by wearing bodices or corsets stiffened with buckram, wood or metal.
- Women’s hats: often made of taffeta and embroidered and decorated with plumes and hat bands.
11
Q
The 17th Century
A
- Women’s Clothing: more restrained (elaborate details disappeared), gowns were made of plain silk with wide necklines and a separate broad collar of lace. The skirt, supported by petticoats fell in deep folds from a tight-fitting bodice.
- Men’s Clothing: become more elaborate. Long boots were worm, reaching mid-thigh, decorated with fringed tops or lace ruffles and jewelled buckles. Doublets were short, showing the shirt.
- Late 17th Century: clothing became highly decorative with applique motifs of gold and silver brocade, ribbons and rich lace trimmings.
- France’s Influence: became the center of the fashion industry and remained so until the second half of the 20th century.
12
Q
The 18th Century
A
- Textile industry have significant developments with inventions eg. the flying shuttle and spinning jenny.
- A middle class emerged and fashionable clothing became accessible for the masses.
- Men’s Clothing: wore full-skirted wait, waistcoat, narrow breeches, a wig (powdered white) and a three cornered hat.
- Women’s Clothing: began to wear structures under their gowns to create different skirt silhouettes. Panniers were popular and were made of a basket-like material; and sat at the hips, making the hips wider but flatter at the front and back (then replaced with bustiers in the 1780s). Bright-coloured tony bows and frills were added to gowns.
13
Q
The early 19th Century
A
The Industrial revolution meant that wealth could be created through hard work.
Department stores opened in large cities and off-the-rack clothing appeared for the first time.
Women’s clothing: Skirts became wider, printed cottons and silks replaced lightweight muslins. Waistlines dropped to the waist and became tighter. The corset was introduced again and became fashionable.
Men’s Clothing: the cutaway coat remained popular but was gradually replaced with a double-breasted tailcoat with the same goal as women’s fashion, to be narrower at the waist though with wide hips.
14
Q
The late 19th Century
A
- Haute Couture: the beginning of the fashion house.
- Charles Fredrick Worth revolutionised the fashion industry by creating the first market fashion by displaying his collections on the catwalk and on mannequins in his shop.
- Women’s Clothing: all classes of women wore crinoline frames, but only the rich could afford the most extravagantly decorated dresses.
- Men’s Clothing: wore a frock coat for daywear and tails for evening wear. Checks or plaids replaced embroidery for decoration. Full-length trousers replaced knee-length breeches.
15
Q
The History of Swimwear
A
Pre–1900, 1900–09, 1910–19, 1920–29, 1930–39, 1940–49, 1950–59, 1960–69, 1970–79, 1980 onwards.
