trials Flashcards
manufacturing techniques - seams
Open seam
for thick or heavy fabrics
manufacturing techniques - seams
french seam
for delicate, lightweight fabric (chiffon, organza)
manufacturing techniques - seams
flat felled seam
stitching appears inside out (denim jeans)
manufacturing techniques - seams
bias bound seam
garment you are likely to see the inside of
manufacturing techniques - seams
stretch stitch seam
reinforces seams (non-stitch fabrics, sportswear)
manufacturing techniques - seams
pit stitched seam
anchoring your thread
manufacturing techniques - seams
zigzag seam
stretchy materials, knit fabrics
manufacturing techniques - Trimming and Clipping Seams
grading seam
removes bulk and allows seam to sit flatter
manufacturing techniques - Trimming and Clipping Seams
notching seam
convex curves and exterior corners
manufacturing techniques - Trimming and Clipping Seams
clipping seam
to release tension along curves
manufacturing techniques - Trimming and Clipping Seams
understitching
to keep fabric from rolling towards the outside
manufacturing techniques - darts
To fit and contour the garment to your body
Triangle
manufacturing techniques - tucks
Contour shape (waist, sleeves)
Square
manufacturing techniques - Closures
Invisible zipper = only zipper is visible, neater
Centre zipper = stitching and zipper are visible
Buttons = fasten garment, aesthetics
Rouleau loops = elegance (aesthetics)
manufacturing techniques - hems
Narrow hem = circular shape or fine fabrics (silk, chiffon)
Top stitched hem = stabilise, decorative (jeans)
Blind hem = practically invisible
Overlocked rolled hem = edge finish, decorative, shown
Factors Effecting
Political factors
Goverment policies that influence buisness
Late 1980’s, Australia tried to reduce the level of protection of the textile industry
Tariffs used to be imported textile items
factors effecting
economic factors
Clothing / Trends shift depending on economy
20’s / great depression
Currency Changes
Zimmerman is more expensive in other countries
factors effecting
societal factors
Values and attitudes of society
(target market)
Influence clothing styles
(what is acceptable)
Social media
Promotions
factors effecting
ecology factors
Effect on environment
Consumer demand
Production of fibres
Manufacturing
Shift to eco friendly products
Marketing
factors effecting
technology
Must embrace new technologies in order to succeed
Manufacturing and procution innovations
Unique and original products
Softwear devices in design spaces
CAD = on screen, easy to change / adopt new designs
CAM = initial set up cost, increase efficiency
factors effecting
expertise
Skills in design / skills in manufacturing
Formal training
Individual / collaborative work
Marketplace
Area specilization
Who is working there
Keep up with current trends
Company education
Company hiring requirements
factors effecting
facilities
Space to design
Manufacturing spaces
Physical spaces
Storage / warehouses
Pop up spaces / fashion shows
factors effecting
financial
Rent of facilities
Workers wages
Material cost
Production cost
Business partners / investors
Government funding
Type 1 = building / equipment / brand support
Type 2 = research and development
How did the company start
Fibre Properties
Cotton
Good abrasion resistance
Strong due to 70% crystalline regions
Holds 27x weight in water
A cool fibre as it is a good conductor of heat
Breathes easily due to fibre structure
Garments retain their shape due to the inelasticity
Hydrophilic, so it is easily dyed
fibre properties
wool
Exceptional drape
Moderate abrasion resistance
Weak, due to the fibre’s highly amorphous structure
Extremely absorbent due to the fibre’s amorphous regions
Excellent elastic recovery
Excellent insulation properties
Poor dimensional stabilitydyed readily due to its highly amorphous structure
Poor shrink resistance
fibre properties
rayon
A lustrous fibre – often used for formal wear
Good drapeability
Resists pill
Low to medium strength but the strength reduces by 40–70% when wet
Highly absorbent as it is an amorphous fibre
Poor elasticity due to large percentage of amorphous regions
Good conductor of heat
Poor dimensional stability
fibre properties
Polyester
Relatively strong due to highly oriented fibre structure and highly crystalline regions
Poor absorbency, which lowers the comfort
elastic because of the high percentage of crystalline regions
Poor conductor of heat but feels cool against the skin
excellent insulator
Excellent dimensional stability
fibre properties
nylon
Drape Good, but can depend on the yarn and fabric construction
Excellent abrasion resistance
Relatively strong due to highly oriented fibre structure and highly crystalline regions
Low absorbency
Relatively elastic due to the high percentage of crystalline regions
Moderate thermal properties
Excellent dimensional stability
fibre properties
elastomeric
Excellent abrasion resistance
Very strong
Poor absorbency
Can be stretched up to 500% without breaking and will return to its original shape
Poor conductor of heat
Staple spun yarn
Definition
Made from staple fibres (cotton
or wool) or manufactured fibres cut into short lengths
Characteristics
Uneven, weak yarn with poor
lustre and durability
Good elasticity, resiliency and
absorbency
End - Use
Apparel
Furnishings
Monofillament yarn
Definition
Made from one filament of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester or nylon)
Characteristics
Fine, strong yarn with good
lustre and durability
Inelastic, poor resiliency and
absorbency
End - Use
Hoisery, Invisible thread
Multifillament Yarn
Definition
Made from two or more filaments of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester or nylon)
Characteristics
Even, strong yarn with good
lustre and durability
Medium elasticity and
resiliency, and slightly absorbent
End - USe
Eveningwear
Lingerie
