Topic 2: Methods of perfume creation Flashcards
what is a badly conceived scent
A fragrance that has no harmony, three levels work quite separately and have no clear progression.
How to counter a badly conceived scent
perfumers usually build accords.
Accords are a group of ingredients that harmonize together to give a new and synergized odor, more than and different from the sum of its parts.
How to compete with other perfumes available
- use innovative top notes
2. Use of signature accords or Raw Material
Jean Carles perfumes created
Made Miss Dior by Christian Dior and Ma Griffe by Carven
Jean Charles method - training technique
60 Odourants and natural extracts of specific and distinctive notes are organized by olfactory notes (contrast) and character.
eg. vanillin and ethyl maltol are both compounds with sweet notes but they differ in the characteristics of their sweetness
Students learn by the contrast of each note then each class
Jean Charles method:
- organized specific / contrasting notes
- odor memorization & understanding
- devised perfumery training
Jean Carles’ steps to creation of perfume:
First, Created in the mind
Second, formula is written on paper
Third, aroma chemicals are mixed
Jean Charles method of perfume creation
The perfume consists of 3 phrases: Top, body, fond
The method employed by Jean Charles consists of the creation of accords within these 3 phrases.
1. fond is first constructed
2. body follows by means of modifiers to give the compound a distinct character
3. finally the top is built to achieve perfume “harmony”
Reflection by Jean Charles
- young perfumers should focus on creating scents that are harmonious vs novel
- there are limitations in panel testing, it is better to let users wear a scent for a week or 2 for a more accurate evaluation
- space spray testing is better than using smelling strips
