MST test questions Flashcards
Why is Jean Charles so reputable in the the line of perfumery
- He started the Roure perfumery school
- even though he suffered from anosmia, He managed to create classics like Ma Griffe from carven
- his method of perfumery is not only novel but effective and still used today
Describe Charles method of training
Carles’ method of training begins with smelling notes that are contrasting. It could begin from fruity to floral to aldehydic and woody (vertically down)
This will then follow with smelling materials of similar families such as for citrusy family: the trainee will smell lemon, lime, orange, bergamot, etc. (horizontally across)
What are the basic ingredients in the creation of Jasmine
HCA, linalool and benzyl acetate
What can be used to round aldehydic notes in the formulation
Ylang-Ylang
What nose did not undergo any type of perfumery training
Francois coty
- created L’Origan
- Chypre
Perfumes and their synthetic ingredient used
Chanel no.5 : Aldehyde C 10
Mitsouko: Aldehyde C 14
Jicky: Linalol and coumarin
Shalimar: Ethyl Vanillin
Why are synthetic ingredients important in perfumery
- Alternative for naturals that are not available such as apples. Where esters such as hexyl acetate or ethyl butyrate can be used.
- To replace ingredients sourced from animals such as Exaltolide replacing the use of musks
- For safety reasons such as when bergamot containing bergapten is removed for application to sunscreens.
- Replacement of ingredientsn facig depletion. Such as with sandalwood oil being replaced with bacdanol
Synthetic ingredient for apple accord
Hexyl acetate and ethyl butyrate
basic ingredients for peach accord
Decalactone Gamma
Diethyl Malonate
Aldehyde C 14
The basic ingredient for pineapple accord
Allyl caproate
Allyl Cyclo Hexyl Propionate
basic ingredients for floral accord
Hedione
Alpha damascone
