The Oceans - Chapter 2: Waves

Question 1

Although it may not be readily apparent to the occasional visitor, the shoreline is being constantly ____ by the ocean waters

Answer 1

shaped and modified

Question 2

The ___ is a complex zone where unique unique character results from various geological processes

Answer 2

shore

Question 3

Which type of wave provides most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines?

Answer 3

Wind generated

Question 4

The undulations of the water surface (waves) derive their energy and motion from the ____

Answer 4

wind

Question 5

What are the tops of waves called?

Answer 5

crests

Question 6

What separates the crests of weaves?

Answer 6

troughs

Question 7

The vertical distance between trough and crest

Answer 7

wave height

Question 8

horizontal distance between successive crests

Answer 8

wavelength

Question 9

The time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point

Answer 9

wave period

Question 10

Height, length, and period of a wave depend on three factors:

Answer 10

wind speed, length of time the wind has blown, fetch

Question 11

What is fetch?

Answer 11

The distance the wind has traveled across the open water

Question 12

As the quantity of energy transferred from the wind to the water increases, the height and steepness of the waves ____

Answer 12

increase

Question 13

What do we call the ocean breakers reached at a critical point

Answer 13

whitecaps

Question 14

When the maximum fetch and duration are reached for a given wind velocity the waves are said to be…

Answer 14

fully developed

Question 15

Why can’t waves grow further after they reach that maximum fetch?

Answer 15

They are losing as much energy as they are receiving from the wind through the breaking of whitecaps

Question 16

When the wind stops or changes directions, or the waves leave the stormy area, they continue on without _____

Answer 16

relation to local winds

Question 17

What is the gradual change called that waves undergo when they are lower in height and longer in length and may carry the storm’s energy to distant storms?

Answer 17

swells

Question 18

True or false: the wave form moves forward and not the water itself

Answer 18

True

Question 19

Waves that are in the open sea

Answer 19

Waves of oscillation

Question 20

For winds of oscillation, the energy contributed by the wind to the water is ____ not only along the surface of the sea but also downward

Answer 20

transmitted

Question 21

When waves are in shallowed water, the surface affects the size. A wave begins to “feel bottom” at a water depth equal to ____ its wavelength

Answer 21

1/2

Question 22

As the speed and length of the wave diminish, the wave _____

Answer 22

grows higher

Question 23

What is it calling when the wave collapses?

Answer 23

breaking

Question 24

After a wave breaks, what had been a wave of oscillation is now ____

Answer 24

wave or translation

Question 25

What do we call the turbulent water created by breaking waves?

Answer 25

Surf

Question 26

What do we call the turbulent sheet of water moving up the slope of the beach?

Answer 26

Swash

Question 27

When the energy of the swash has been expended, the water flows back down the beach as

Answer 27

backwash