The Oceans - Chapter 2: Waves Flashcards

1
Q

Although it may not be readily apparent to the occasional visitor, the shoreline is being constantly ____ by the ocean waters

A

shaped and modified

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2
Q

The ___ is a complex zone where unique unique character results from various geological processes

A

shore

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3
Q

Which type of wave provides most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines?

A

Wind generated

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4
Q

The undulations of the water surface (waves) derive their energy and motion from the ____

A

wind

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5
Q

What are the tops of waves called?

A

crests

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6
Q

What separates the crests of weaves?

A

troughs

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7
Q

The vertical distance between trough and crest

A

wave height

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8
Q

horizontal distance between successive crests

A

wavelength

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9
Q

The time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point

A

wave period

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10
Q

Height, length, and period of a wave depend on three factors:

A

wind speed, length of time the wind has blown, fetch

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11
Q

What is fetch?

A

The distance the wind has traveled across the open water

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12
Q

As the quantity of energy transferred from the wind to the water increases, the height and steepness of the waves ____

A

increase

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13
Q

What do we call the ocean breakers reached at a critical point

A

whitecaps

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14
Q

When the maximum fetch and duration are reached for a given wind velocity the waves are said to be…

A

fully developed

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15
Q

Why can’t waves grow further after they reach that maximum fetch?

A

They are losing as much energy as they are receiving from the wind through the breaking of whitecaps

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16
Q

When the wind stops or changes directions, or the waves leave the stormy area, they continue on without _____

A

relation to local winds

17
Q

What is the gradual change called that waves undergo when they are lower in height and longer in length and may carry the storm’s energy to distant storms?

18
Q

True or false: the wave form moves forward and not the water itself

19
Q

Waves that are in the open sea

A

Waves of oscillation

20
Q

For winds of oscillation, the energy contributed by the wind to the water is ____ not only along the surface of the sea but also downward

A

transmitted

21
Q

When waves are in shallowed water, the surface affects the size. A wave begins to “feel bottom” at a water depth equal to ____ its wavelength

22
Q

As the speed and length of the wave diminish, the wave _____

A

grows higher

23
Q

What is it calling when the wave collapses?

24
Q

After a wave breaks, what had been a wave of oscillation is now ____

A

wave or translation

25
What do we call the turbulent water created by breaking waves?
Surf
26
What do we call the turbulent sheet of water moving up the slope of the beach?
Swash
27
When the energy of the swash has been expended, the water flows back down the beach as
backwash