The Oceans - Chapter 2: Wave Refraction and Longshore Transport

Question 1

What is the bending of waves

Answer 1

Wave refraction

Question 2

True or false: waves always approach the shore straight on

Answer 2

False

Question 3

When waves reach the shallow swater of a _____ bottom, they are bent and tend to become ____ to the shore

Answer 3

gently sloping; parallel

Question 4

Why does the bending at shallow slopes occur?

Answer 4

Because the part of the water nearest the shore touches bottom and slows first while the end that is still in water continues forward

Question 5

Due to refraction, wave impact is concentrated against the __________ of a headlands projecting into the water while wave wave attack is weakened in bays

Answer 5

sides

ends

Question 6

In zones of weakened wave activity, sediments can accumulate and form _______

Answer 6

sandy beaches

Question 7

Over a long period, erosion of the headlands and ___ in the bays wil straighten an irregular shoreline

Answer 7

deposition

Question 8

The uprush of water from each breaking wave is ____

Answer 8

oblique

Question 9

The name of a movement that creates the zigzag pattern along the beach

Answer 9

Beach drift

Question 10

True or false: beach drift is not a significant transporter

Answer 10

False; it can carry sand and pebbles 100s-1000s of meters/day

Question 11

The name for currents formed by oblique waves within the surf zone that flow parallel to the floor

Answer 11

longshore currents

Question 12

Longshore currents easily move the fine suspended sand as as _______ larger sand and gravel

Answer 12

roll along the bottom

Question 13

True or false: beaches are mostly composed by wave eroded debris

Answer 13

False; it’s actually from sediment-laden rivers that discharge into ocean