Textiles and Design: colouration Flashcards
What is Printing
Is a textile art that involves applying a surface decoration design via a pigment that allows for greater flexibility in the coloration of patterned fabric
what is Direct printing
where a textile material has a design directly printed on the surface of the fabric
Types of direct printing
block printing
roller printing
warp printing
Block printing
A design is carved into a block medium and coated with a pigment
Block printing: Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- patterns are hand-carved and unique
- no skills required
Disadvantages:
- Slow and time consuming
- difficult to align work and keep pattern consistent
- usually mono-colored
Roller printing
rollers are engraved or etched with designs that are subsequently rolled onto the fabric to repeated the pattern. Up to 16 colors can be used
Roller printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- cheap for mass production
- good for large quantities
Disadvantages:
- Lots of wastage
- can’t do small runs
- costly to engrave rolls
- can distort the fabric
- Can’t put on fabric that needs to stretch
Block printing end uses
clothing, sheeting, home furnishings
Roller printing end uses
clothing, sheeting, home furnishings
Warp printing
Uses to print onto warp yarns, which are then woven with plain dyed weft yarns. The printed yarns produce a fabric with soft, blurry, muted-tone designs
Warp printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- gives an expensive look
Disadvantages:
- Hazy design may be undesirble
- time-consuming
Warp printing end uses
Taffeta, cotton, furnishing fabrics, and upholstery
Resist printing
Uses a resist to prevent the paste from being applied to the fabric.
Types of resist printing
Batik, stencil printing, screen printing and ikat
Batik
Wax is stamped or drawn onto a fabric. It later dries, and the process of applying wax and dying can be repeated several times to produce different effects and colours
Batik end uses
designs for fabrics, sarong, featured in fashion shows
Batik: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- can be repeated to create different effect/ colour
Disadvantages: - involves slow labor intensive process careful planning not for large scale
Stencil printing
Uses a resistor such as plastic, contact paper, or masking tape. The design is cut into a resist paper film, the stenciling brushes or sponges are used to apply the printing color
Stencil printing end uses
T-shirts, clothing, logo
Stencil printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- make specific designs
- cheap and easy
disadvantages:
- stencil may move whilst printing and smudge design
- New stencil needed every time
- time-consuming
Hand or manual screen printing
when a frame is laid down onto a printing bed and a squeegee is used to force the printing paste through the designed areas on the screen mesh.
hand or manual screen printing end uses
t-shirts, tote bag, other fabrics
Hand or manual printing : advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- designs can be done on the same screen multiple times using different colors
Disadvantages:
- required intensive manual labour
- needs multiple people and skills
Machine screen printing
screen printing used by a machine and the basic principles of screen printing skill apply
Machine screen printing end uses
wide fabrics, scarves, pillowcases
Machine screen printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- quick
- does not need to wait for paste to dry
- accurate
Disadvantages:
- lots of wastage
- requires skill and large machines (costly)
- only can be done on wide fabics
Rotary screen printing
the printing paste is forced through the inside of the roller via automated squeeges
Rotary screen printing end uses
clothing, furnishings
Rotary screen printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- mass production
- good precision
- chaper to produce
- fast
- minimal pigment
Disadvantages:
- costly to start up
- need to be skilled (computerised)
Heat transfer printing (sublimation)
Can only be done on polyester. The designs are heated at a high temp and pressure is applied. The printed paper is placed on the face of the fabric and passed through pressure-heated rollers. Garments printed this way are usually high quality or high resolution images
Heat transfer printing end uses
T-shirts, pjs, childrens clothing, furnishings, dresses
Heat transfer printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- economical and enviromentally friendly
- does not require to be wetted out
- no heat setting required
- high resolution images
Disadvantages:
- requires the use of specifically printed paper
- only done on polyester
- high temp increases the danger
- risk of workers getting burnt
- costly
Direct digital printing
involves printing directly onto a fabric using technology and innovative systems and programs
Direct digital printing end uses
Large scale, apparel, whatever you want
Direct digital printing: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- Large scale
- decorative designs
- continuous printing
- can print whatever you want
- not expensive
Disadvantages:
- required high-end large scale specialist machines
- can be expensive due to production
Dye def
a soluble colour that is applied from a solution called a dye liquor or dye solution
Dying def
the process of penetrating or combining a permanent colour to a fibre, yarn or fabric
Dye types
direct, reactive, sulfur, azoic, vat, acid, basic, disperse
Direct
cellulosic
Reactive
cellulosic, wool, silk, acrylic and nylon
Sulfur
cellulosic
Azoic
cotton and some polyesters
Vat
cellulosic
Acid
wool, silk, nylon, modified rayon, arcylic and polyester
Basic
arylic, polyester, nylon and discharge prints on cotton
Disperse
polyester, nylon and synthetic
Principles of dying
- quantity of dye is made by dissolving the dyestuff with water
- the fibre, yarn or fabric is wetted out
- It is immersed in the dye liquor
- then agitated (mixing it)
- migration occurs as dye molecules end up in textiles
- Dye molecules diffuse into the amorphs regions
- Anchored (temperature of dye bath is lowered and dye is trapped inside)
How is pre-fiber dying achieved
Solution or dope dying
Pre-fibre dying: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- excellent for hard to dye fibres
- outstanding courfastness
- solid uniform colour
Disadvantages:
- high cost
- only available for manufactured fibres
How is fibre dying achived
Stock or fibre dying. Losse fibres are dyed before spinning
Fibre dying: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- good dye penetration
- two-tone patterning can occur
Disadvantages:
- high cost
- fibre dye uptake
How is yarn dying achived
Beam dying. The yarns are wrapped on cones and then submerged into dye vats
Yarn dying: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- high quality
- uses to create patterned fabrics
Disadvantages:
- high cost
How is fabric dying achived
Peice dying.
fabric dying: Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- produces solid colour
- lower costs
- quick response to fashion trends
Disadvantages:
- materials need to be well prepared
- knowledge of fiber, yarn and fabric propities
- knowledge of dying technology
How is product dying achived
apparel or other finished products
product dying: advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- less expensive
- quick response to fashion trends
Disadvantages:
- required well prepared materials
- threads, trims are difficult to match
Methods of batch dying
winch, jig and pad
Winch dying
The fabric is sewn together at the end and lifted in and out of the dye bath. The dye penetrates the fibres due to countious immersion
Jig dying
The fabric is carried around the rock and rolled back and fourth through the dye bath at regular intervals
Pad dying
The fabric is run through a dye bath in an open mouth where it passes through a series of rollers
Methods of combination dying
Paddle, jet, continuous, foam and artistic
Paddle dying
A process of dying textiles in a machine that gently moves the goods using paddles. This is a slow process but little abrasion is produced
Jet dying
Sealed vats use high-pressure jet streams of dye. Fine fabrics can be dyed this way
Continuous dying
Can dye yarns and fabrics. Machines are used to wet out the dye and treat, wash and rinse the textile material
Foam dying
is economical and environmentally friendly as it uses less water in the dying process leading to less water wastage and runoff
Artistic dying
Describes a pattern of color by preventing the dye from reaching some areas of the fabric whilst dying others eg. tie dye
Applique
the technique off applying fabric shapes to a fabric backing
The basic method of applique
- draw the design onto a fusible web
- iron fusible web to wrong side of the fabric and cut out applique shape
- peel off the tear-away stabilizer
- Stitch around the edge of the shape on your chosen fabric
Embroidery
is the method of decorating or embellishing a base fabric with yarns. This can be done either by hand or using a machine
Embroidery stitch types
running stitch, back stitch, couching, blanket stitch