Systems and Processes Flashcards
Wind definition
Movement of air from higher to lower pressure
Prevailing wind in the UK is from the ….
South West
3 factors affecting size of waves are …
Strength of wind
Length of time wind blows for
Distance over which wind has been blowing (fetch)
In shallow water, the orbit of water particles turns from circular to elliptical due to….
Friction between the water and the sea floor
Fetch is the…
Maximum distance of open water over which the wind blows unobstructed by major land obstacles
Fetch is the maximum distance of open water over which the wind blows unobstructed by…
Major land obstacles
Part of Europe with longest fetch is the…..coast of Europe
West
2 other names for constructive waves are …. and…
Swell waves
Surging waves
2 other names for constructive waves are…. and surging waves
Swell waves
2 other names for constructive waves are swell waves and….
Surging waves
2 other names for…waves are swell waves and surging waves
Constructive
2 other names for…waves are storm waves and plunging waves
Destructive
2 other names for destructive waves are…. and…
Storm waves
Plunging waves
2 other names for destructive waves are …and plunging waves
Storm waves
2 other names for destructive waves are storm waves and…
Plunging waves
…waves are formed by local storms
Destructive
Destructive waves are formed by local…
Storms
Destructive waves are formed by…storms
Local
Constructive waves are formed in open sea by…
Distant weather systems
…waves are formed in open sea by distant weather systems
Constructive
Constructive waves are formed in…sea by distant weather systems
Open
Constructive waves are formed in open sea by…weather systems
Distant
Formation of constructive vs destructive waves
Constructive waves= formed in open sea by distant weather systems
Destructive waves= formed by local storms
The shape of constructive waves can be described as low and …
Surging
The shape of constructive waves can be described as…and surging
Low
The shape of…waves can be described as low and surging
Constructive
2 key words to describe shape of constructive wave
Low
Surging
2 key words to describe shape of destructive wave
High
Plunging
The shape of …waves can de described as high and plunging
Destructive
The shape of destructive waves can be described as high and…
Plunging
The shape of destructive waves can be described as ….and plunging
High
Shape of constructive waves vs destructive waves
Constructive= low and surging (thing strong swash- they surge forwards)
Destructive= high and plunging
Constructive waves have a… wavelength
Long
(Up to 100m)
Constructive waves have a long wavelength up to…m
100
Destructive waves have a…wavelength
Short
(Less than 20m)
Destructive waves have a short wavelength of less than…m
20
Wavelength of constructive vs destructive waves
Constructive waves= long wavelength (up to 100m)
Destructive waves= short wavelength (less than 20m)
Constructive waves have a…frequency
Low
(6-8 per minute)
Constructive waves have a low frequency of… per minute
6-8
Destructive waves have a…frequency
High
Destructive waves have a high frequency of…per minute
10-12
Frequency of constructive vs destructive waves
Constructive waves= low frequency (6-8 per minute)
Destructive waves = high frequency (10-12 per minute)
Constructive wave net (overall) effect on beach
Beach gain
Destructive wave net (overall) effect on beach
Beach loss
Constructive wave vs destructive wave net effect on beach
Constructive wave= beach gain
Destructive wave= beach loss
Constructive waves have a …wave period which means it takes a long time for a complete wave to occur
High
Destructive waves have a …wave period which means it takes a short amount of time for a full wave to occur
Low
Constructive waves have a high wave period of 1 every ….seconds (it takes a long time for a complete wave to occur)
8-10
Destructive waves have a low wave period of one every …seconds (it takes a short amount of time for a complete wave to occur)
5-6
Wave period of constructive vs destructive waves
Constructive waves = high (1 every 8-10 seconds)
Destructive waves= low (1 every 5- 6 seconds)
Constructive waves have a low frequency therefore they must have a…period
High
Destructive waves have a high frequency therefore they must have a …period
Low
Beach profile for constructive waves
Gently sloping
Over time is built up and made steeper
Beach profile for destructive waves
Steeper beach
Over time flattened
Beach profile for constructive vs destructive waves
Constructive waves= gently sloping, over time beach is built up and made steeper
Destructive waves= steeper beach that’s flattened over time
The first stage of the formation of waves is that wind blows over the sea and transfers energy through…
Friction
The first stage of the formation of waves is that….and transfers energy through friction
The wind blows over the sea
In deep water there is a…orbit of water particles
Circular
When orbit of water particles is elliptical in shallow water, the velocity and wavelength of the wave…
Decrease
When orbit of water particles in shallow water is elliptical, the …and… of the wave decrease
Velocity
Wavelngth
Why constructive waves make beaches steeper
They deposit sediment
Why destructive waves make beaches less steep
They erode material and sediment/ move it back out to sea
Refraction (in terms of waves) is the…
Change in direction of a wave as a result of travelling at different speeds at different points along the wave front
Refraction (in terms of waves) is the change of direction of a wave as a result of…
Travelling at different speeds at different points along the wave front
When waves approach a coastline that is …in shape (e.g a headland), the waves are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline
Irregular
When waves approach a coastline that’s irregular in shape e.g a headland, the waves are refracted and become increasingly…to the coastline
Parallel
When waves approach a headland (irregular shaped bit of coastline) the middle part of the wave…due to friction against the sea floor
Slows down
As the middle part of the wave approaches the headland, it slows down due to friction against the sea floor, meanwhile the end parts of the wave in deep water keep moving forwards…(what speed) which causes the wave to bend
Quickly
(As there isn’t yet friction with the sea floor to slow them down)
Whole process of wave refraction
Wave refraction occurs when waves approach part of a coastline that is irregular in shape e.g a headland.
The part of the wave that reaches the headland slows down due to friction against the sea floor, meanwhile the rest of the wave is still in deep water so keeps moving forward quickly (due to a lack of friction against the sea floor)
This causes the wave to bend
The wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland leading to a high level of erosion at this point
When wave refraction occurs around a headland, the wave energy becomes concentrated on the…
Headland
(Leading to a high level of erosion)
(Overtime a high level of erosion leads to the coastline becoming regular shaped again which is an example of negative feedback)
Wave refraction is an example of…feedback
Negative
(Wave energy is concentrated on headland leading to a high level of erosion which overtime makes the coastline more regular shaped so wave refraction decreases)
Tides definition
Periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon
Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the..in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon
Sea level
Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the ….of the sun and moon
Gravitational pull
Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the….and…
Sun
Moon
Tides are the….rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon
Periodic
High tide is where…
The sea surface rises to its highest point
Low tide is where…
The sea surface falls to its lowest point
Tidal range is the ….
Difference between high tide (where sea surface rises to its highest point) and low tide (where sea surface falls to its lowest point)
Spring tide definition
When the sun and moon are aligned this creates the highest high tide and lowest low tide, creating the largest possible tidal range
Type of tide that has the largest possible tidal range
Spring tide
Type of tide where sun and moon are in alignment
Spring tide
Neap tide definition
When the soon and moon are perpendicular to each other , this creates the highest low tide and lowest high tide creating the smallest possible tidal range
Type of tide where sun and moon are perpendicular to each other
Neap tide
Type of tide where there’s the smallest possible tidal range
Neap tide
There are…high tides and low tides every lunar day
2
There are 2 high tides and 2 low tides every …day
Lunar
(Lunar day= time taken for specific site on Earth to rotate from an exact point under the moon to the same point under the moon)
Wavelength is the…
Distance between 2 successive crests or troughs
Wave height/ amplitude is …
Height difference between wave crest and neighbouring trough
Wave period is …
Time taken for a complete wave to occur
(Time between one crest and the successive crest to pass a fixed point)
Wave period is …
Time taken for a complete wave to occur
(Time between one crest and the successive crest to pass a fixed point)
Key term used to describe time taken for a complete wave to occur (time between one crest and the following crest passing a fixed point)
Wave period
Wave crest is the…
Highest part of the wave
Wave trough is the…
Lowest part of the wave
Swash is the…
Rush of water up the beach after the wave breaks
Backwash is the…
Action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea
Swell waves definition
Waves in open water, characterised by long wavelengths with a reduced height that travel huge distances
Swell waves are waves in…water that are characterised by…wavelengths with a …height and that travel…distances
Open
Long
Reduced
Huge
There are 2 spring tides and 2 neap tides every …
Lunar month
3 different ways tidal range can be classified (categorised) (depending on how big the tidal range is)
Macrotidal (tidal range greater than 4m)
Mesotidal (tidal range between 2m and 4m)
Microtidal (tidal range less than 2m)
Microtidal means a tidal range less than…
2m
Mesotidal means a tidal range between…
2m and 4m
Macrotidal means a tidal range greater than…
4m
Storm surge definition
Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)
Storm surge is the…rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)
Abnormal
Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a… (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)
Storm
Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted…tide)
Astronomical
Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted…tide)
Astronomical
Storm tide definition
Water level rise during a storm due to the combination of storm surge and astronomical tide
Storm tide is the…during a storm due to the storm surge and astronomical tide
Water level rise
Storm tide is the water level rise during a storm due to the combination of…and…
Storm surge
Astronomical tide