Systems and Processes Flashcards

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1
Q

Wind definition

A

Movement of air from higher to lower pressure

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2
Q

Prevailing wind in the UK is from the ….

A

South West

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3
Q

3 factors affecting size of waves are …

A

Strength of wind
Length of time wind blows for
Distance over which wind has been blowing (fetch)

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4
Q

In shallow water, the orbit of water particles turns from circular to elliptical due to….

A

Friction between the water and the sea floor

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5
Q

Fetch is the…

A

Maximum distance of open water over which the wind blows unobstructed by major land obstacles

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6
Q

Fetch is the maximum distance of open water over which the wind blows unobstructed by…

A

Major land obstacles

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7
Q

Part of Europe with longest fetch is the…..coast of Europe

A

West

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8
Q

2 other names for constructive waves are …. and…

A

Swell waves
Surging waves

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9
Q

2 other names for constructive waves are…. and surging waves

A

Swell waves

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10
Q

2 other names for constructive waves are swell waves and….

A

Surging waves

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11
Q

2 other names for…waves are swell waves and surging waves

A

Constructive

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12
Q

2 other names for…waves are storm waves and plunging waves

A

Destructive

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13
Q

2 other names for destructive waves are…. and…

A

Storm waves
Plunging waves

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14
Q

2 other names for destructive waves are …and plunging waves

A

Storm waves

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15
Q

2 other names for destructive waves are storm waves and…

A

Plunging waves

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16
Q

…waves are formed by local storms

A

Destructive

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17
Q

Destructive waves are formed by local…

A

Storms

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18
Q

Destructive waves are formed by…storms

A

Local

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19
Q

Constructive waves are formed in open sea by…

A

Distant weather systems

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20
Q

…waves are formed in open sea by distant weather systems

A

Constructive

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21
Q

Constructive waves are formed in…sea by distant weather systems

A

Open

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22
Q

Constructive waves are formed in open sea by…weather systems

A

Distant

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23
Q

Formation of constructive vs destructive waves

A

Constructive waves= formed in open sea by distant weather systems
Destructive waves= formed by local storms

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24
Q

The shape of constructive waves can be described as low and …

A

Surging

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25
Q

The shape of constructive waves can be described as…and surging

A

Low

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26
Q

The shape of…waves can be described as low and surging

A

Constructive

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27
Q

2 key words to describe shape of constructive wave

A

Low
Surging

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28
Q

2 key words to describe shape of destructive wave

A

High
Plunging

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29
Q

The shape of …waves can de described as high and plunging

A

Destructive

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30
Q

The shape of destructive waves can be described as high and…

A

Plunging

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31
Q

The shape of destructive waves can be described as ….and plunging

A

High

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32
Q

Shape of constructive waves vs destructive waves

A

Constructive= low and surging
Destructive= high and plunging

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33
Q

Constructive waves have a… wavelength

A

Long
(Up to 100m)

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34
Q

Constructive waves have a long wavelength up to…m

A

100

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35
Q

Destructive waves have a…wavelength

A

Short
(Less than 20m)

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36
Q

Destructive waves have a short wavelength of less than…m

A

20

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37
Q

Wavelength of constructive vs destructive waves

A

Constructive waves= long wavelength (up to 100m)
Destructive waves= short wavelength (less than 20m)

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38
Q

Constructive waves have a…frequency

A

Low
(6-8 per minute)

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39
Q

Constructive waves have a low frequency of… per minute

A

6-8

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40
Q

Destructive waves have a…frequency

A

High

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41
Q

Destructive waves have a high frequency of…per minute

A

10-12

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42
Q

Frequency of constructive vs destructive waves

A

Constructive waves= low frequency (6-8 per minute)
Destructive waves = high frequency (10-12 per minute)

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43
Q

Constructive wave net (overall) effect on beach

A

Beach gain

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44
Q

Destructive wave net (overall) effect on beach

A

Beach loss

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45
Q

Constructive wave vs destructive wave net effect on beach

A

Constructive wave= beach gain
Destructive wave= beach loss

46
Q

Constructive waves have a …wave period which means it takes a long time for a complete wave to occur

A

High

47
Q

Destructive waves have a …wave period which means it takes a short amount of time for a full wave to occur

A

Low

48
Q

Constructive waves have a high wave period of 1 every ….seconds (it takes a long time for a complete wave to occur)

A

8-10

49
Q

Destructive waves have a low wave period of one every …seconds (it takes a short amount of time for a complete wave to occur)

A

5-6

50
Q

Wave period of constructive vs destructive waves

A

Constructive waves = high (1 every 8-10 seconds)
Destructive waves= low (1 every 5- 6 seconds)

51
Q

Constructive waves have a low frequency therefore they must have a…period

A

High

52
Q

Destructive waves have a high frequency therefore they must have a …period

A

Low

53
Q

Beach profile for constructive waves

A

Gently sloping
Over time is built up and made steeper

54
Q

Beach profile for destructive waves

A

Steeper beach
Over time flattened

55
Q

Beach profile for constructive vs destructive waves

A

Constructive waves= gently sloping, over time beach is built up and made steeper
Destructive waves= steeper beach that’s flattened over time

56
Q

The first stage of the formation of waves is that wind blows over the sea and transfers energy through…

A

Friction

57
Q

The first stage of the formation of waves is that….and transfers energy through friction

A

The wind blows over the sea

58
Q

In deep water there is a…orbit of water particles

A

Circular

59
Q

When orbit of water particles is elliptical in shallow water, the velocity and wavelength of the wave…

A

Decrease

60
Q

When orbit of water particles in shallow water is elliptical, the …and… of the wave decrease

A

Velocity
Wavelngth

61
Q

Why constructive waves make beaches steeper

A

They deposit sediment

62
Q

Why destructive waves make beaches less steep

A

They erode material and sediment/ move it back out to sea

63
Q

Refraction (in terms of waves) is the…

A

Change in direction of a wave as a result of travelling at different speeds at different points along the wave front

64
Q

Refraction (in terms of waves) is the change of direction of a wave as a result of…

A

Travelling at different speeds at different points along the wave front

65
Q

When waves approach a coastline that is …in shape (e.g a headland), the waves are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline

A

Irregular

66
Q

When waves approach a coastline that’s irregular in shape e.g a headland, the waves are refracted and become increasingly…to the coastline

A

Parallel

67
Q

When waves approach a headland (irregular shaped bit of coastline) the middle part of the wave…due to friction against the sea floor

A

Slows down

68
Q

As the middle part of the wave approaches the headland, it slows down due to friction against the sea floor, meanwhile the end parts of the wave in deep water keep moving forwards…(what speed) which causes the wave to bend

A

Quickly
(As there isn’t yet friction with the sea floor to slow them down)

69
Q

Whole process of wave refraction

A

Wave refraction occurs when waves approach part of a coastline that is irregular in shape e.g a headland.

The part of the wave that reaches the headland slows down due to friction against the sea floor, meanwhile the rest of the wave is still in deep water so keeps moving forward quickly (due to a lack of friction against the sea floor)

This causes the wave to bend

The wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland leading to a high level of erosion at this point

70
Q

When wave refraction occurs around a headland, the wave energy becomes concentrated on the…

A

Headland
(Leading to a high level of erosion)

(Overtime a high level of erosion leads to the coastline becoming regular shaped again which is an example of negative feedback)

71
Q

Wave refraction is an example of…feedback

A

Negative
(Wave energy is concentrated on headland leading to a high level of erosion which overtime makes the coastline more regular shaped so wave refraction decreases)

72
Q

Tides definition

A

Periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon

73
Q

Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the..in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon

A

Sea level

74
Q

Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the ….of the sun and moon

A

Gravitational pull

75
Q

Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the….and…

A

Sun
Moon

76
Q

Tides are the….rise and fall of the sea level in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and moon

A

Periodic

77
Q

High tide is where…

A

The sea surface rises to its highest point

78
Q

Low tide is where…

A

The sea surface falls to its lowest point

79
Q

Tidal range is the ….

A

Difference between high tide (where sea surface rises to its highest point) and low tide (where sea surface falls to its lowest point)

80
Q

Spring tide definition

A

When the sun and moon are aligned this creates the highest high tide and lowest low tide, creating the largest possible tidal range

81
Q

Type of tide that has the largest possible tidal range

A

Spring tide

82
Q

Type of tide where sun and moon are in alignment

A

Spring tide

83
Q

Neap tide definition

A

When the soon and moon are perpendicular to each other , this creates the highest low tide and lowest high tide creating the smallest possible tidal range

84
Q

Type of tide where sun and moon are perpendicular to each other

A

Neap tide

85
Q

Type of tide where there’s the smallest possible tidal range

A

Neap tide

86
Q

There are…high tides and low tides every lunar day

A

2

87
Q

There are 2 high tides and 2 low tides every …day

A

Lunar
(Lunar day= time taken for specific site on Earth to rotate from an exact point under the moon to the same point under the moon)

88
Q

Wavelength is the…

A

Distance between 2 successive crests or troughs

89
Q

Wave height/ amplitude is …

A

Height difference between wave crest and neighbouring trough

90
Q

Wave period is …

A

Time taken for a complete wave to occur
(Time between one crest and the successive crest to pass a fixed point)

91
Q

Wave period is …

A

Time taken for a complete wave to occur
(Time between one crest and the successive crest to pass a fixed point)

92
Q

Key term used to describe time taken for a complete wave to occur (time between one crest and the following crest passing a fixed point)

A

Wave period

93
Q

Wave crest is the…

A

Highest part of the wave

94
Q

Wave trough is the…

A

Lowest part of the wave

95
Q

Swash is the…

A

Rush of water up the beach after the wave breaks

96
Q

Backwash is the…

A

Action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea

97
Q

Swell waves definition

A

Waves in open water, characterised by long wavelengths with a reduced height that travel huge distances

98
Q

Swell waves are waves in…water that are characterised by…wavelengths with a …height and that travel…distances

A

Open
Long
Reduced
Huge

99
Q

There are 2 spring tides and 2 neap tides every …

A

Lunar month

100
Q

3 different ways tidal range can be classified (categorised) (depending on how big the tidal range is)

A

Macrotidal (tidal range greater than 4m)
Mesotidal (tidal range between 2m and 4m)
Microtidal (tidal range less than 2m)

101
Q

Microtidal means a tidal range less than…

A

2m

102
Q

Mesotidal means a tidal range between…

A

2m and 4m

103
Q

Macrotidal means a tidal range greater than…

A

4m

104
Q

Storm surge definition

A

Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)

105
Q

Storm surge is the…rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)

A

Abnormal

106
Q

Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a… (over and above the predicted astronomical tide)

A

Storm

107
Q

Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted…tide)

A

Astronomical

108
Q

Storm surge is the abnormal rise in sea level generated by a storm (over and above the predicted…tide)

A

Astronomical

109
Q

Storm tide definition

A

Water level rise during a storm due to the combination of storm surge and astronomical tide

110
Q

Storm tide is the…during a storm due to the storm surge and astronomical tide

A

Water level rise

111
Q

Storm tide is the water level rise during a storm due to the combination of…and…

A

Storm surge
Astronomical tide