Study Unit 4 Natural Protein Fibres: Speciality/Fur Flashcards
Mohair
The speciality and fur fibres are all used to produce luxury yarns. Mohair is the only one frequently used in South Africa. High quality mohair, the fibre from the Angora goat, is produced in South Africa. South Africa is the largest producer of mohair. Mohair is also produced in the United States of America, Turkey, Australia and New Zealand. Angora goats are sheared twice a year. The fibres are fine and silky and measure 10 to 15 cm in length. If a longer fibre is desired (20 to 30 cm), the goats are sheared only once a year. Mohair has a remarkable resistance to wear and abrasion, a high degree of lustre and excellent resiliency. In South Africa mohair is frequently combined with wool to produce men’s suits.
Cashmere
Cashmere is the fibre from the cashmere (Kashmir) goat of Asia. The fibre is combed from the goat and the yield per animal averages only about 114 g of good fibre. It is an expensive but very soft and attractive fibre, normally used in knits for sweaters.
In South Africa efforts are underway to establish a “cashmere” industry using the fibres from indigenous goats, such as the boer goat, which are normally only kept for meat, milk or skins. The fibres are obtained from the fine, soft under coat of the goats.
Camel hair
The bactrian, or two-humped camel, sheds about 2,5 kg of fibre each year. The fine soft under hairs are used to make high quality coat fabrics. The natural tan or reddish brown colour is very attractive and is often retained in the fabric. The coarse camel hair fibres are used for belting, ropes and artists’ brushes.
Alpaca
The alpaca is also a member of the camel family, and originates from the Andes Mountain regions of South America. It is sheared once every two years; and its fibre is warm, glossy and strong.
Llama
The llama, also a member of the camel family, is found in the same geographical regions as the alpaca and its fibre is very similar, but weaker than those of the alpaca and the camel. The llama is sheared once a year.
Vicuna
The most valuable and prized hair fibres come from the vicuna. It is a member of the llama family and found at altitudes of nearly 5000 m in the Andes. The vicuna, which is about the size of a large dog, was placed on the endangered species list in 1969, with only about 200 animals remaining worldwide. However, very recently the Peruvian government, with the aid of an Italian textile company, managed to establish a large herd of more than a thousand animals in a government wildlife protected area. These animals can now be sheared and the fibre should become more readily available. However, as each animal yields only 114 g of fibre, it will still be very scarce and expensive. The fibre is not only warm, light and lustrous, but it is also one of the softest.
Musk ox or qiviut
The musk ox or qiviut is found in Alaska. It sheds its hair, which is collected. The fibres are soft, fine, warm and attractive. The Inuit people process much of the fibre into textiles with native designs. The fibre is similar to mohair in texture.
Fur fibres
Fur fibres are obtained from animals normally used for fur pelts such as mink, fox, chinchilla and rabbit. These fibres are used in small amounts in blends with wool or manufactured fibres. They add softness, colour interest and prestige value to the fabrics.
In South Africa the best-known example of fur fibres comes from the Angora rabbit. These fibres are produced in different locations in South Africa, the largest production perhaps being in the Colesberg area. The rabbits are combed and clipped three times a year and the fibre is frequently spun into the knitting yarn on the farm where it is produced. The fibres give a fluffy, white, silky look to the garment.
