South of France & Roussillon & Provence

Question 1

Roussillon Overview hectares, location,

Answer 1

• Today Roussillon has around 21,000 hectares of vineyard, having reduced the area planted dramatically in recent decades (it is roughly one third the size it was in 1980), as seen in other parts of southern Europe.
• The region is dominated by the Pyrenees and many of the vineyards are located on the slopes or foothills of these mountains.
• Around 70 per cent of the vineyard area is classified as AOC – there is no extensive flat, coastal plain here suited to high volume grape growing, as in the Languedoc

Question 2

Roussillon overview wine styles and producers

Answer 2

• Around a quarter of production is Vins Doux Naturels (see D5: Fortified Wines), while roughly equal volumes of AOC and PGI wines are made.
• Co- operatives continue to be very strong in the region and account for around 75 per cent of production. The majority of wines produced are red, followed by rosé with a small proportion of white wine.

Question 3

Roussillon climate

Answer 3

• Roussillon has a warm, windy, Mediterranean climate with moderate rainfall (500–600 mm annually) and high sunshine hours. Generally, the climate is very favourable for grape growing, though drought can be an issue in dry years.
• The combination of frequent winds and low rainfall helps to reduce the disease threat from fungal diseases. However, these climatic factors also reduce yield (which in turn raises concentration of fruit) and therefore income.
• There is a high proportion of certified organic grape growing in the region (15 per cent by hectares planted), enabled by the warm, dry, windy and sunny conditions.

Question 4

Roussillon Grape varieties

Answer 4

• The most important varieties are Grenache Noir, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre for red and rosé wines, the Muscats (blanc & alexandria) (mainly used for fortified wine) and Macabeu for whites.
• In contrast to Languedoc, all the top six varieties have been grown in the region for many decades.

Question 5

Roussillon Vineyard Management

Answer 5

• As in the Languedoc, historically vines were grown as bush vines. Many of these remain. Well adapted to the climate (providing some shade to the bunches), most work has to be done by hand, which is expensive. In recent decades, vines have been planted on trellises, though the amount of flatter land, suitable for trellising, is far less than in the Languedoc.

Question 6

Roussion AOC list

Answer 6

• Côtes du Roussillon AOC
• Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC
• Collioure AOC
• IGP Côtes Catalanes

Question 7

Côtes du Roussillon AOC

Answer 7

• Côtes du Roussillon is a large appellation (nearly 5,000 ha) that includes the entire département of Pyrénées-Orientales except the Collioure area.
• It is situated on lower slopes (100–250 m) and is an appellation for red, rosé and white wines. Maximum yield is 48 hL/ha.
• The principal varieties for red and rosé wines are Carignan, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Maximum allowed amount of Carignan in the vineyard is 50 per cent, while Syrah and Mourvèdre separately or together must be a minimum of 25 per cent in the vineyard.
• The wines must be made from a minimum of two varieties with a requirement that the variety with the highest percentage is limited to 80 per cent in the final blend.
• In terms of style, quality and price the red wines are similar to the Languedoc AOC wines.

Question 8

Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC overview

Answer 8

• Côtes du Roussillon Villages is less than half the size of Côtes du Roussillon AOC. It is an appellation for red wines only, and has the same rules about a minimum two varieties and the proportion of the main variety.
• The vines are grown on slopes from 100–400 m, with the altitude resulting in a cooling influence and so greater acidity in the wines. However, more work has to be done by hand, raising cost.
• The maximum yield is restricted to 45 hL/ha, though yields are often well below that due to the hot, dry climate, resulting in wines of high concentration.

Question 9

Côtes du Roussillon Villages AOC yields, style, quality, price

Answer 9

• Five villages may append their names to this appellation, for example, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel AOC with a lower maximum yield of 42 hL/ha.
• Some of these villages require the Carignan to be made with carbonic maceration, to promote the primary fruit and reduce the tannins that might be extracted.
• In terms of style, quality and price, the wines are similar to Languedoc sub- appellations.

Question 10

Collioure AOC

Answer 10

• This small appellation, extending along the coast to the Spanish border, has the same boundaries as Banyuls AOC
• Full-bodied, dry, red and white wines are made from grapes grown on steep terraces above the Mediterranean Sea. The red wines, the great majority, are made predominantly from Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The white wines are made predominantly from Grenache Gris, a mutation of Grenache Noir.
• The maximum yield for red and white wines is 40 hL/ha, which is rarely achieved. The typical yield is 20–25 hL/ha due to the heat, low rainfall and poor soils.
• In terms of style, quality and price, the red wines are similar to Languedoc sub-appellations with consistently high concentration of fruit due to low yields.

Question 11

IGP Côtes Catalanes

Answer 11

• Covers the Pyrénées-Orientales département and is used by producers for red and white wines, including some super-premium white wines (for example from Domaine Gauby).

Question 12

Roussillon Winemaking

Answer 12

• As in the Languedoc, red wines can be made either by pressing the fruit and maceration on the skins or by carbonic maceration, depending on the style of wine desired.

Question 13

Roussillon Wine Business

Answer 13

• Co-operatives continue to be very important within the region, however, as in Languedoc, there is an increasing trend towards the production of high quality wines by individual wineries. Some of these have been set up by those from outside of the region, for example Thunevin-Calvet from Bordeaux.
• Outstanding quality, super-premium wines are made by wineries such as Domaine Gauby, Clos des Fées and Le Soula.
• 80 per cent of the dry wine by volume is sold in France, with China, Belgium and Germany as the top three export destinations by volume.
• Roussillon is also a partner in the promotional body, Sud de France.

Question 14

Provence Overview

Answer 14

• This region has become virtually synonymous with pale pink rosé made principally from Grenache Noir and Cinsaut, a style much copied around the world.
• Rosé accounts for around 90 per cent of Provence’s AOC wine, which in turn represents about 40 per cent of France’s AOC rosé wine.
• Alongside this style, red wine from Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre and Carignan has become a new focus and very small volumes of white wines are made from varieties such as Vermentino also known locally as Rolle, and Clairette.
• Vineyard plantings in coastal areas have been reduced in size due to competition for land from housing development andtourism.

Question 15

Provence Climate

Answer 15

• Provence has a warm Mediterranean climate with adequate rainfall in most years for grape growing.
• The cold Mistral wind can provide a cooling influence and helps to reduce fungal disease. Provence has double the national average of organic vineyards, facilitated by the generally favourable climate. However, the cold winds can also interrupt flowering and fruit set, reducing yields.
• The best sites for consistent yields are those that have shelter from the Mistral. Altitudes up to 400 m in inland sites also provide a moderating influence on warm summer temperatures.

Question 16

Provence varieties

Answer 16

• Grenache Noir: 37%
• Cinsault: 17%
• Syrah 17%
• Carignan 8%
• Rolle 6%
• Cabernet Sauvignon 6%

Question 17

Provence Vineyard Management

Answer 17

• The traditional bush vines of the region are being replaced with trellised vines to aid mechanisation and reduce cost. The bush vine offers more shade to the fruit, which can be an advantage.
• However, trellised vines make it easier to control the size of the canopy and to achieve ripeness in terms of sugar level and ripe skins and seeds at the same time. Inter-row access is easier for workers and machines.
• Grapes grown for making rosé are picked earlier than for red wine to retain acidity. However, if the wine is to be made by short maceration, then it is important that the tannins are sufficiently ripe to avoid any bitterness. Choosing an appropriate harvest date is critical in ensuring fruit ripeness whilst retaining the desired level of acidity.

Question 18

Provence rose winemaking pre fermentation

Answer 18

• The pale colour of most wines is related to the relatively low level of colour in the skins of the common varieties of the region – Grenache Noir, Cinsaut and the local variety Tibouren.
• In addition, the AOC regulations allow up to 20 per cent of white varieties in the blend. (If white varieties are used they will typically form less than 10 per cent of the blend. Using white grapes in the blend may be useful to reduce the alcohol level.)
• Rosé is made either by direct pressing (now the most common option) or by short maceration (a few hours) on the skins. Musts are typically acidified to achieve a good balance between fruit and acidity.
• For best quality, fruit is handled protectively by chilling it to 4°C (39°F, which reduces the rate of oxidation, and then excluding oxygen, with a view to retaining the fruity aromas and preserving the pale colour. For example, Bucher Vaslin developed a specialised press trademarked Inertys®, to eliminate oxidation in the press.

Question 19

Provence rose winemaking fermentation

Answer 19

• Fermentation typically takes place in stainless steel tanks. Winemakers have a choice of either selecting a cultured yeast for a consistent, fruity style or using ambient yeast. Cultured yeast also helps the fermentation get off to a fast start without any off-flavours. It has become the majority option.
• Fermentation temperature is restricted to between (57–64°F)in order to preserve delicate primary fruit aromas but avoid the banana aroma associated with very low temperatures.
• Wines have to be fermented to dry (as set out in the AOC rules), resulting in a consistently dry style for the appellation

Question 20

Provence rose winemaking post fermentation

Answer 20

• Malolactic conversion is routinely blocked to retain acidity and to preserve primary fruit. If the colour of the wine is deeper than desired, this may be reduced by fining the wine.
• The wines are typically stored for a short period (2-3 months) on the lees in stainless steel containers before being bottled. A few producers choose to keep the wine on the lees for 8–10 months for added texture; some also produce an oak-aged premium rosé, for example, Château d’Esclans.

Question 21

Provence Appellations

Answer 21

• Côtes de Provence AOC
• Coteaux Varois en Provence AOC
• Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC
• Les Baux de Provence AOC
• Bandol AOC
• Bellet AOC
• Cassis AOC
• Palette AOC

Question 22

Côtes de Provence AOC overview, varieties, and yields

Answer 22

• This is by far the largest appellation with 20,000 ha under vine. 90% of the wine produced is rosé. As with most other Provencal AOCs, there is also provision for red and white wines.
• The principal grape varieties required by the appellation for rosé are Grenache Noir, Cinsaut, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Tibouren and the wines must be a blend of varieties.
• The maximum yield is 55 hL/ha with average yields being close to 45 hL/ha.
• Within the appellation, there are some sub-zones, the largest of which is Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire AOC (lower maximum yields 50 hL/ha).

Question 23

Côtes de Provence AOC rose style, quality, and price

Answer 23

• Côtes de Provence rosé is typically pale pink-orange in colour, with light to medium intensity aromas of raspberry and red plum with herbal notes, medium acidity, medium body and medium alcohol.
• Quality typically ranges from good to very good and there is a wide range of prices with many wines in the mid-priced to premium bands but also some super- premium wines.

Question 24

Côtes de Provence Var département

Answer 24

• Similar wines are produced within the enclave in the Var département, entitled to the appellation Coteaux Varois en Provence AOC and in Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC
• (maximum 60 hL/ha; both these AOCs have Counoise as a principal variety, in addition to the usual varieties).
• Between them, the three appellations mentioned produce more than 95 per cent of the AOC wines of Provence.

Question 25

Côtes de Provence AOC Les Baux de Provence AOC

Answer 25

• in the far north west of the region, close to the Rhône River, makes mostly red wines from Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The three varieties must make up 60 per cent minimum of the blend.

Question 26

Bandol AOC overview

Answer 26

• This appellation, unusually for Provence, produced more red wines than rosé. However, in recent years, rosé has become the most common style by volume.
• The vineyards are on south-facing slopes protected from the wind. Where the slopes are steep, they have to be terraced to reduce erosion. Working on slopes adds greater labour costs.
• Soils are typically rocky (limestone and clay) with low fertility. Area under vine has reduced from 1,400 ha to fewer than 600 in this century alone, due to a combination of competition for land and the difficulties of working on the slopes.

Question 27

Bandol AOC wine styles, yields, producers

Answer 27

• The wines typically feature Mourvèdre that generally ripens reliably in the area due to the very warm microclimate.
• Red wines must be 50–95 per cent Mourvèdre and must be aged in oak for 18 months. Rosés must have between 20–95 per cent Mourvèdre. Maximum yields are restricted to 40 hL/ha. Significant producers include Domaine Tempier.
• Co-operatives are responsible for 50 per cent of production (e.g. Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne). The red wines are typically good to very good in quality with some outstanding examples that can be aged for many years. Prices range from mid-price to super-premium.

Question 28

Provence other appellations

Answer 28

• Provence also has a number of very small, historic, appellations that became AOCs from the 1930s onwards: Bellet AOC, Cassis AOC mainly for white wine, Palette AOC mostly made by Ch. Simone.
• As these appellations are mostly on the coast, they are much under pressure from building development. Much of the wine is sold to local tourists
• In 1955 cru classé status was granted to 23 estates of which 18 remain. Examples include Clos Mireille and Domaine Rimaurescq. The list has never been revised.

Question 29

Provence wine business markets

Answer 29

• 65% of Provence’s wine by volume is sold in France with half of that being sold in supermarkets and a high proportion at the cellar door.
• At 36% of total world consumption, France is the number one consumer of rosé in the world, not only drinking French rosés but also being the largest importer of rosé from other countries, especially Spain.
• The top export market is the USA (which takes nearly a half of all Provence wine exports) followed at some distance by the UK at 13 per cent. Exports have grown rapidly since the turn of the century, 500 per cent in volume and 1,000 per cent in value.

Question 30

Provence wine business marketing

Answer 30

• Wines are marketed with strong reference to the lifestyle of Provence and the Riviera, boosted still further in recent years by the purchase of wine estates, such as Château Miraval, by well-known celebrities.
• In addition to wine estates, négociants and co-operatives continue to be important in Provence. For example, nearly 60 per cent of production in the Var is by co-operatives, while large négociants account for 50 per cent of the production in Provence as a whole.