Germany Flashcards
Germany Climate
- Germany’s main wine-producing regions lie around 49–50°N, making them amongst the most northerly in the world. Overall, the climate is cool and continental.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (Site selection)
- At this latitude, site selection is essential. Most of Germany’s vineyards are situated along the river Rhine and its tributaries.
- The rivers play a vital role in radiating heat; moderating temperature and extending the growing season.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (Best sites)
- The best vineyards are often on steep, south- facing slopes to maximum sun exposure.
- Some of the slopes are extremely steep, reaching gradients of 70 per cent overlooking the Mosel.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (winter, spring summer, autumn)
- Winters can be very cold, usually cold enough for the production of Eiswein.
- In spring, frosts are a major risk, although this is mitigated by the rivers and planting on slopes.
- Summers are warm but also wet; rainfall averages between 500 and 800 mm and much of it falls in the summer. This increases the risk of fungal disease, dilution of grapes and, in heavy storms, hail.
- Autumns, however, are long and dry, allowing for long ripening periods during which grapes can develop the high levels of natural sugar required for Prädikatswein and the morning mists along the rivers are ideal for the development of botrytis.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (Mountain ranges)
- Also important are mountain ranges, such as the Taunus and Haardt, which shelter the vineyards areas from cold winds and the worst of the rain.
- However, at such high latitudes, vineyards are planted at relatively low altitudes, mainly below 200 metres above sea level.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (Baden)
- Baden is further south, stretching towards the Swiss border.
- It is noticeably drier, warmer and sunnier than the others, although in cooler areas, spring frosts can still be a concern.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (SOIL)
- Germany’s vineyards are planted on a wide variety of soils. Soil type plays an important role in fruit ripening in the coolest regions. In Mosel and Ahr, for example, dark-coloured slate retains heat during the day and radiates it out again at night.
- There are significant pockets of calcareous soils.
- In Baden, Pfalz and Rheinhessen, it is planted with Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Chardonnay, whilst in Franken, it produces some of the best Silvaner. Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) prefers heavy, more clayey soils.
- Producers are increasingly interested in how grape varieties, especially Riesling, perform differently and show varying flavour profiles when grown in different soils.
Germany Growing environment and grape growing (SOIL issues)
- On the steep slopes, such as those in the Mosel and Rheingau, erosion is a major problem and vineyard owners are regularly forced to winch soil and rocks back up the slopes adding to the cost of vineyard maintenance.
Germany vineyard management (yield history)
- In 2018, Germany had the seventh largest area under vine in Europe at around 100,000 ha. Average annual production has been around 9 million hL in recent years.
- Yields vary from vintage to vintage and from region to region but, in Rheinhessen and Pfalz, they can average over 100 hL/ha and, in the past, were even higher.
- In the 1980s, due to EU regulations, Germany was forced to impose lower maximum yields but, whilst these vary from region to region, they are still around 150 hL/ha for Deutscher Wein and Landwein, and 105 hL/ha for Qualitätswein
- Quality-minded producers, however, work with much lower yields
Germany vineyard management (Vintage variation)
- Many of Germany’s vineyards are at the northernmost limit for ripening grapes.
- There is considerable vintage variation and, in the coolest years and sites, grapes can fail to ripen fully.
- However, vintage variation has been reducing in recent years. Whilst this is undoubtedly due in part to climate change, there have also been significant advances in vineyard management techniques, led by the various research institutes
Germany vineyard management( techniques that improve fruit ripeness)
- Fruit ripeness has been improved by better clonal selection (especially amongst black grape varieties), summer pruning, green harvesting and selective hand harvesting.
Germany vineyard management( the importance of canopy management)
- Good canopy management is essential to maximise sun exposure and also to improve air circulation in order to reduce the risk of disease caused by the wet summers.
Germany vineyard management(vine training)
- On the slopes, vines were traditionally staked individually with canes tied at the top. However, this method is labour-intensive and requires skills which are gradually being lost and so, as a result of Flurbereinigung, all but the steepest vineyards now use single and double replacement-cane pruning with VSP trellising and Pendelbogen.
Germany vineyard management(Pendelbogen)
- Pendelbogen is replacement-cane pruning with the canes arched in the trellis.
- The arching of the canes is thought to improve the flow of sap in the vine and increase the number of viable buds, in turn increasing yields
Germany vineyard management (organic/biodynamic)
- Germany is not widely suited to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Because of the risk of disease, growers still have to spray their crops regularly
- In Mosel, often the only practicable way to do this is by helicopter and it is likely that sprays would drift onto neighbouring vineyards, risking an organic producers’ accreditation.
- Despite this, around 9 per cent of German vineyards are certified organic. There is considerable support for sustainable viticulture and many estates employ some elements where they can.
Germany vineyard management (mechanization)
- The topography of many German vineyards is also challenging. On steeper slopes, vineyards are terraced or planted up the slopes. Mechanisation is difficult or even impossible and, in some cases, they are so steep that equipment and workers have to be winched up and down.
- Although new technology is being introduced (such as small caterpillar tractors that can negotiate steep slopes), and Flurbereinigung has improved accessibility and efficiency, the steeply sloped vineyards require substantially more labour than flatter sites.
- This increases costs significantly and often only Riesling can command appropriate, sustainable prices.
Germany vineyard management (labour)
- Even on flatter sites, labour costs are often higher than in other wine-producing regions.
- Whilst mechanisation is now widespread, German wine law requires grapes for wines of Beerenauslese level and above to be hand-harvested and many producers still hand harvest for other Prädikatsweine to ensure healthy, fully ripe fruit.
- Large-scale commercial operations producing high-volume, inexpensive wines are highly mechanised and efficient, however.
German grape varieties overview
- Because of the cool climate, German wine production has traditionally been focused on white wine and grape varieties which can naturally tolerate the conditions, such as Riesling, or which have been bred specifically for that purpose
German grape varieties history
- In 1980, 90 per cent of grapes planted were white.
- However, since then, red wine production has increased significantly and, in 2017, 39 per cent of plantings were black.
- Much of Germany’s red wine used to be light and fruity, often with residual sugar but quality has improved greatly, thanks to the development of better clones, particularly of Spätburgunder and Dornfelder, better vineyard management and winemaking techniques, as well as increasing temperatures in the vineyard.
- Since the 1990s, plantings of Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and, to a lesser extent, Chardonnay have also risen considerably. Otherwise, there are only small plantings of other international varieties, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc showing some promise but in very limited volumes.
- Grape varieties need not be stated on German wine labels but usually are.
List german main grape varieties
- riesling
- müller-Thurgau
- Spätburgunder
- Dornfelder
- Silvaner
- Grauburgunder
- Weissburgunder
list german secondry grape varieties
- Chardonnay
- Portugieser
- Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier),
- Trollinger (Schiava)
- Lemberger (Blaufränkisch
Riesling vine characteristics
- Riesling accounts for 23 per cent of all plantings. It has proven so successful because it can survive the cold German winters and, being late budding with thick wood, is relatively frost resistant.
- However, it is late-ripening and needs good sun exposure and dry autumns; in cooler years and sites, it may not ripen fully. Because of this, plantings fell in the 1970s and 1980s as producers turned to the more reliable German crosses which could readily achieve the must weights required by law.
- However, improved vineyard management techniques and rising temperatures have led to greater consistency of ripening and plantings have recovered and are continuing to grow.
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Riesling wine styles
- Riesling produces high-quality wines in a full range of styles, from dry to sweet. It retains high acidity even when fully ripe, providing balance in sweet wines and giving the wines significant potential for ageing.
- In the right conditions, it can produce high natural levels of sugar and is susceptible to botrytis, making it ideal for producing sweet wines.
- Riesling is capable of making wines with pronounced intensity and great aromatic complexity. Depending on ripeness, fruit flavours range from green fruit to tropical. It can also show floral aromas, such as white flowers or honeysuckle. With age, the wines develop toast, honeyed and petrol-like aromas.
müller-Thurgau vine characteristics
- Müller-Thurgau (sometimes known as Rivaner) was one of the earliest German crosses. Earlier- ripening than Riesling, it can produce high yields in almost any conditions.
- It was Germany’s most planted grape variety in the 1970s and 1980s and was widely used in the production of inexpensive blends such as Liebfraumilch. However, as the popularity of such wines has fallen, plantings have more than halved.
müller-Thurgau wine styles
- It has much lower acidity than Riesling (generally medium acidity) and gives wines with less structure and character but it can produce wines with attractive but relatively simple floral and fruity aromas for early drinking.
Spätburgunder popularity
- Spätburgunder is Germany’s most planted black grape (11.5 per cent of total plantings) and has enjoyed a rapid rise in popularity, both domestically and on the export market. Plantings have almost tripled and it thrives particularly in warmer areas such as Baden.
Spätburgunder wine styles, vineyard management, and winemaking options
- Germany is increasingly being recognised as producing high-quality, complex and dry Spätburgunder, often with oak ageing.
- Vineyard management is constantly improving with producers using higher quality clones, perfecting canopy management and selecting harvesting dates to balance alcohol, acidity and ripeness of fruit and tannins.
- Some producers use whole bunch fermentation; the tannins from stems contributing to tannins without needing to use oak for this purpose.
- In general, producers are tending to use less new oak and some
are using more larger oak vessels than 10–20 years ago.
Dornfelder
- the most significant of the black German crosses and has grown from nothing to be Germany’s second most planted black variety in the past 30 years.
- It produces wines that are deep in colour, high in acidity with fruity and floral notes.
- It is used to produce two quite distinct styles of wine: on the one hand, a fruity, easy-drinking style, occasionally with a little residual sugar, with aromas of sour cherry and blackberry; and, on the other hand, a more complex style with ageing potential produced from lower yields showing greater focus on tannins and structure, fermented or aged in oak.
- Dornfelder has been particularly successful in Rheinhessen and Pfalz where it is the most planted black variety, ahead of Spätburgunder.
Silvaner
- plantings have also nearly halved since 1980, although the decline has now stabilised.
- Lower in acidity and less aromatic than Riesling, it, too, produces large amounts of simple, inexpensive wines with subtle fruit aromas that can range from green fruit to tropical fruit.
- However, where yields are controlled, in Franken in particular, it can produce high-quality, dry, medium- bodied wines with medium to medium (+) acidity and a distinctive earthy characteristic.
Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder
- have grown considerably in popularity since the 1990s.
- There are now sizeable plantings in Rheinhessen, Pfalz and particularly in Baden.
- Both varieties can produce very good quality wines, some of which are aged in oak.
- Grauburgunder particularly likes heavier soils and can produce wines with medium acidity and aromas of stone fruit and tropical (sometimes dried) fruit and honey. In style, they range from dry and medium-bodied to fuller-bodied, sweeter wines (often labelled as Ruländer).
- Weissburgunder can produce well-balanced wines with medium (+) acid and delicate citrus and stone fruit aromas.
Chardonnay
- has only been allowed in Germany since 1990 and plantings remain very low.
- However, high-quality examples are being produced, often with oak ageing, in warmer areas such as the southern Pfalz and Kaiserstuhl in Baden.
Portugieser, Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), Trollinger (Schiava) and Lemberger (Blaufränkisch)
- produce mainly simple, fruity wines for drinking young, especially in Württemberg. However, some higher-quality examples are now being produced from lower- yielding sites, particularly from Lemberger.
German Crosses
- These are a group of mainly white grape varieties developed by the various German wine institutes to cope with Germany’s cool climate. One of the earliest examples was Müller- Thurgau, developed in the 1880s to ripen earlier than Riesling.
- The number of new crossings increased rapidly in the mid 20th century as the drive for producing high yields of grapes with high must weights was encouraged by the German wine laws
- Unfortunately, most of the new varieties produced wines with a high level of sugar but without sufficient acidity or aromatic character to balance it. Nevertheless, they were widely used in inexpensive blends such as Liebfraumilch.
- As techniques develop to allow better ripening of other varieties, in particular Riesling, reliance on and interest in the crosses has fallen considerably, even those which proved themselves capable of producing good-quality wines.
- Scheurebe, in particular, can produce full-bodied wines with intense aromas of ripe grapefruit and peach. Although acidity levels are lower than for Riesling, they are still high enough to make ageworthy wines and also some high-quality sweet wines.
- Kerner also produces good quality wines up to high Prädikat levels with high acidity and some of the fruity, floral characteristics of Riesling.
- A number of black crossings were also developed, including perhaps the most successful of all, Dornfelder, which is now the second most planted black variety.
German Winemaking (Bulk vs low volume)
- Bulk wine still accounts for a large proportion of production but there are many small estates producing low-volume, high-quality wines
- As in the vineyard, there have been significant advances in knowhow and technology in recent decades, driven by the research institutes and also winemakers gaining experience from elsewhere in the wine world.
- However, an increasing number are also returning to more traditional and less interventionist winemaking methods, such as natural fermentation and reduced filtration and fining, helped by the better harvests of healthy, ripe grapes.
- There is also much experimentation, such as with lees contact and oak, particularly with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder but in some cases even with Riesling.
German Winemaking (Technology,traditional winemaking, experimentation)
- As in the vineyard, there have been significant advances in knowhow and technology in recent decades, driven by the research institutes and also winemakers gaining experience from elsewhere in the wine world.
- However, an increasing number are also returning to more traditional and less interventionist winemaking methods, such as natural fermentation and reduced filtration and fining, helped by the better harvests of healthy, ripe grapes.
- There is also much experimentation, such as with lees contact and oak, particularly with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder but in some cases even with Riesling.
German Winemaking (enrichment & de-acidification)
- Due to the cool temperatures, enrichment is a relatively common practice, although it is not permitted for Prädikatswein.
- Most of Germany’s wine regions fall within EU Zone A, allowing enrichment of up to 3% abv; Baden is in Zone B, for which the maximum enrichment is 2% abv.
- However, the practice is becoming increasingly rare outside bulk wine production, due to consistently riper fruit.
- De-acidification is also permitted, as is acidification but only in the hottest years. Again, however, these also now only tend to be used for high volume, inexpensive wines.
German winemaking (traditional fermentation vessels)
- Traditionally, German wines were fermented and matured in large old oak casks to allow for some oxygenation, and some producers of premium Riesling still do so today. There is a range of traditional casks found around Germany’s wine regions: for example, the 1,000
L Fuder of Mosel and the oval-shaped 1,200 L Stück used along the Rhine. - German oak, especially from Pfalz, is popular particularly for large vessels, as is oak sourced from Central Europe.
- French oak is common for smaller vessels such as barriques.
German winemaking (newer fermentation vessels)
- in the past few decades, fermentation in stainless steel has become the norm.
- It is used for inexpensive wines in which the ease of temperature control and cleaning are important, as well as the ability to purchase extremely large vessels. It also does not introduce any oxygen or add any flavours, so is still a common choice for mid-priced and premium Riesling (as well as other varieties such as Silvaner) to maintain its primary aromas.
German winemaking (new oak)
- New oak is rarely used for Riesling as it could mask the primary aromas.
- However, a proportion of new oak, often in the form of barriques, may be used for red wines as well as Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay.
German Winemaking ( Historical use Süssreserve)
- In the 1960s and 1970s, all but the finest wines with residual sugar were initially fermented to dryness but then sweetened post- fermentation, even at Prädikatswein level.
- This was done by the addition of Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must).
what is Sussreserve?
- Süssreserve must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added.
- It is common for the Süssreserve and wine to come
from the same must; producers take a small proportion of must pre-fermentation, clarify, chill and protect it with SO2 so it remains fresh, and then add this must back to the fermented wine to create the desired level of sweetness.
What does sussreserve do to wine?
- Süssreserve must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added.
- Süssreserve is thought to give less balanced wines and, whilst many large commercial wineries still use this process, quality-conscious producers follow the traditional method of making sweet wines by stopping the fermentation by adding SO2, racking or filtering.
- Sweetening through Rectified Concentrated Grape Must (RCGM) can only be used for Deutscher Wein.
Fermenting Beerenauslese, Eiswein, and Trockenbeerenauslese
- Grapes destined for Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese have very high must weights and fermentation will usually proceed very slowly: Trockenbeerenauslese can take several months.
- Usually, the fermentation will stop naturally due to the high sugar levels, leaving high levels of residual sugar and low levels of alcohol (often between 5.5 and 8% abv).
German wine style 1980 to now
- Since the late 1980s, there has been a dramatic shift in the German domestic market towards drier wines and the vast majority of German wine is now produced in a dry (trocken) or off-dry (halbtrocken) style.
- Even in Mosel, which is famous for its sweeter-style wines, more wines are being fermented to dryness.
- Nevertheless, top producers remain committed to producing high-quality wines with some degree of sweetness and the best quality examples are amongst the finest in the world and still have an enthusiastic following.
German winemaking (sweetness use)
- Sweetness was often used to mask high acidity and bitterness from under-ripe grapes.
- However, German growers and producers have learnt how to ensure Riesling ripens fully and how to produce wines which balance sugar, acid and fruit characteristics.
German winemaking for Red wine inexpensive vs expensive
- Inexpensive wines designed for early consumption often undergo thermovinification for quick extraction of colour and flavour. The wine can then be fermented off the skins to produce a fruity red with low tannins. These wines will typically not be oak matured.
- By contrast, for higher-quality red wines, most particularly Pinot Noir, techniques such as cold maceration, whole bunch fermentation and maturation in oak are common.
German winemaking(rose wine)
- Volumes of rosé wines are relatively small, making up almost 11 per cent of domestic sales of German wines in 2018.
- They tend to be sold domestically and inexpensive price points (often below the prices of whites and reds).
- Most are youthful and fruity, fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel and bottled for release soon after.
- There are a small number of higher-priced rosés from quality- focused producers, some of which are aged in oak barrels.
Wine Law (general)
- Germany’s current wine laws date back to 1971, although they have been amended considerably since, creating a system that has often been criticised as confusing to consumers.
- The fundamental principle of German wine law has always been to classify grapes according to their must weight at harvest.
- There are few other rules regarding grape growing or winemaking, although, as previously explained, there are limited restrictions on yields.
Wine law (4 quality levels)
There are four quality levels of German wine which are in increasing order of must weight, Deutscher Wein, Landwein, Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.
Wine law (Deutscher Wein)
- This covers wine without a geographical indication made exclusively from grapes grown in Germany.
- Alcohol levels must be between 8.5% abv and 15% abv and they can be produced in any style. These are inexpensive wines intended to be drunk when young.
- Deutscher Wein usually accounts for a tiny proportion of annual production; together, Deutscher Wein and Landwein accounted for around 4 per cent of production of the 2018 vintage.
Wine law (landwein)
- German equivalent of PGI wine.
- At least 85 per cent of the grapes must originate in the Landwein region named on the label
- alcohol levels must be between 8.5% abv and 15% abv
- In most regions, wines can only be produced in a trocken or halbtrocken style although in a few, sweeter styles are permitted.
- Landwein only makes up a tiny proportion of annual production
Wine law(Qualitatswein general)
- This is a PDO category but with less stringent regulations than that of the Prädikatswein category.
- The grapes must come exclusively from one of 13 designated quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete), the name of which must appear on the label.
- Wines can be made in all styles and the minimum alcohol level is lower (7% abv) to allow for sweeter wines; there is no maximum alcohol level.
- As for Deutscher Wein and Landwein, enrichment is permitted for Qualitätswein.
Wine law (Qualitatswein styles)
- The majority of everyday drinking and high volume wines come under this category, although there are also some high-quality examples as an increasing number of producers are following the VDP’s lead and labelling their dry wines as Qualitätswein trocken, and only using Prädikatswein for sweeter wines.