Germany Flashcards

Question

müller-Thurgau wine styles

Answer 1

* It has much lower acidity than Riesling (generally medium acidity) and gives wines with less structure and character but it can produce wines with attractive but relatively simple floral and fruity aromas for early drinking.

Answer 2

* Spätburgunder is Germany’s most planted black grape (11.5 per cent of total plantings) and has enjoyed a rapid rise in popularity, both domestically and on the export market. Plantings have almost tripled and it thrives particularly in warmer areas such as Baden.

Answer 3

* Germany is increasingly being recognised as producing high-quality, complex and dry Spätburgunder, often with oak ageing. * Vineyard management is constantly improving with producers using higher quality clones, perfecting canopy management and selecting harvesting dates to balance alcohol, acidity and ripeness of fruit and tannins. * Some producers use whole bunch fermentation; the tannins from stems contributing to tannins without needing to use oak for this purpose. * In general, producers are tending to use less new oak and some are using more larger oak vessels than 10–20 years ago.

Answer 4

* the most significant of the black German crosses and has grown from nothing to be Germany’s second most planted black variety in the past 30 years. * It produces wines that are deep in colour, high in acidity with fruity and floral notes. * It is used to produce two quite distinct styles of wine: on the one hand, a fruity, easy-drinking style, occasionally with a little residual sugar, with aromas of sour cherry and blackberry; and, on the other hand, a more complex style with ageing potential produced from lower yields showing greater focus on tannins and structure, fermented or aged in oak. * Dornfelder has been particularly successful in Rheinhessen and Pfalz where it is the most planted black variety, ahead of Spätburgunder.

Answer 5

* plantings have also nearly halved since 1980, although the decline has now stabilised. * Lower in acidity and less aromatic than Riesling, it, too, produces large amounts of simple, inexpensive wines with subtle fruit aromas that can range from green fruit to tropical fruit. * However, where yields are controlled, in Franken in particular, it can produce high-quality, dry, medium- bodied wines with medium to medium (+) acidity and a distinctive earthy characteristic.

Answer 6

* have grown considerably in popularity since the 1990s. * There are now sizeable plantings in Rheinhessen, Pfalz and particularly in Baden. * Both varieties can produce very good quality wines, some of which are aged in oak. * Grauburgunder particularly likes heavier soils and can produce wines with medium acidity and aromas of stone fruit and tropical (sometimes dried) fruit and honey. In style, they range from dry and medium-bodied to fuller-bodied, sweeter wines (often labelled as Ruländer). * Weissburgunder can produce well-balanced wines with medium (+) acid and delicate citrus and stone fruit aromas.

Answer 7

* has only been allowed in Germany since 1990 and plantings remain very low. * However, high-quality examples are being produced, often with oak ageing, in warmer areas such as the southern Pfalz and Kaiserstuhl in Baden.

Answer 8

* produce mainly simple, fruity wines for drinking young, especially in Württemberg. However, some higher-quality examples are now being produced from lower- yielding sites, particularly from Lemberger.

Answer 9

* These are a group of mainly white grape varieties developed by the various German wine institutes to cope with Germany’s cool climate. One of the earliest examples was Müller- Thurgau, developed in the 1880s to ripen earlier than Riesling. * The number of new crossings increased rapidly in the mid 20th century as the drive for producing high yields of grapes with high must weights was encouraged by the German wine laws * Unfortunately, most of the new varieties produced wines with a high level of sugar but without sufficient acidity or aromatic character to balance it. Nevertheless, they were widely used in inexpensive blends such as Liebfraumilch. * As techniques develop to allow better ripening of other varieties, in particular Riesling, reliance on and interest in the crosses has fallen considerably, even those which proved themselves capable of producing good-quality wines. * Scheurebe, in particular, can produce full-bodied wines with intense aromas of ripe grapefruit and peach. Although acidity levels are lower than for Riesling, they are still high enough to make ageworthy wines and also some high-quality sweet wines. * Kerner also produces good quality wines up to high Prädikat levels with high acidity and some of the fruity, floral characteristics of Riesling. * A number of black crossings were also developed, including perhaps the most successful of all, Dornfelder, which is now the second most planted black variety.

Answer 10

* Bulk wine still accounts for a large proportion of production but there are many small estates producing low-volume, high-quality wines * As in the vineyard, there have been significant advances in knowhow and technology in recent decades, driven by the research institutes and also winemakers gaining experience from elsewhere in the wine world. * However, an increasing number are also returning to more traditional and less interventionist winemaking methods, such as natural fermentation and reduced filtration and fining, helped by the better harvests of healthy, ripe grapes. * There is also much experimentation, such as with lees contact and oak, particularly with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder but in some cases even with Riesling.

Answer 11

* As in the vineyard, there have been significant advances in knowhow and technology in recent decades, driven by the research institutes and also winemakers gaining experience from elsewhere in the wine world. * However, an increasing number are also returning to more traditional and less interventionist winemaking methods, such as natural fermentation and reduced filtration and fining, helped by the better harvests of healthy, ripe grapes. * There is also much experimentation, such as with lees contact and oak, particularly with Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder but in some cases even with Riesling.

Answer 12

* Due to the cool temperatures, enrichment is a relatively common practice, although it is not permitted for Prädikatswein. * Most of Germany’s wine regions fall within EU Zone A, allowing enrichment of up to 3% abv; Baden is in Zone B, for which the maximum enrichment is 2% abv. * However, the practice is becoming increasingly rare outside bulk wine production, due to consistently riper fruit. * De-acidification is also permitted, as is acidification but only in the hottest years. Again, however, these also now only tend to be used for high volume, inexpensive wines.

Answer 13

* Traditionally, German wines were fermented and matured in large old oak casks to allow for some oxygenation, and some producers of premium Riesling still do so today. There is a range of traditional casks found around Germany’s wine regions: for example, the 1,000 L Fuder of Mosel and the oval-shaped 1,200 L Stück used along the Rhine. * German oak, especially from Pfalz, is popular particularly for large vessels, as is oak sourced from Central Europe. * French oak is common for smaller vessels such as barriques.

Answer 14

* in the past few decades, fermentation in stainless steel has become the norm. * It is used for inexpensive wines in which the ease of temperature control and cleaning are important, as well as the ability to purchase extremely large vessels. It also does not introduce any oxygen or add any flavours, so is still a common choice for mid-priced and premium Riesling (as well as other varieties such as Silvaner) to maintain its primary aromas.

Answer 15

* New oak is rarely used for Riesling as it could mask the primary aromas. * However, a proportion of new oak, often in the form of barriques, may be used for red wines as well as Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay.

Answer 16

* In the 1960s and 1970s, all but the finest wines with residual sugar were initially fermented to dryness but then sweetened post- fermentation, even at Prädikatswein level. * This was done by the addition of Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must).

Answer 17

* Süssreserve must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added. * It is common for the Süssreserve and wine to come from the same must; producers take a small proportion of must pre-fermentation, clarify, chill and protect it with SO2 so it remains fresh, and then add this must back to the fermented wine to create the desired level of sweetness.

Answer 18

* Süssreserve must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added. * Süssreserve is thought to give less balanced wines and, whilst many large commercial wineries still use this process, quality-conscious producers follow the traditional method of making sweet wines by stopping the fermentation by adding SO2, racking or filtering. * Sweetening through Rectified Concentrated Grape Must (RCGM) can only be used for Deutscher Wein.

Answer 19

* Grapes destined for Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese have very high must weights and fermentation will usually proceed very slowly: Trockenbeerenauslese can take several months. * Usually, the fermentation will stop naturally due to the high sugar levels, leaving high levels of residual sugar and low levels of alcohol (often between 5.5 and 8% abv).

Answer 20

* Since the late 1980s, there has been a dramatic shift in the German domestic market towards drier wines and the vast majority of German wine is now produced in a dry (trocken) or off-dry (halbtrocken) style. * Even in Mosel, which is famous for its sweeter-style wines, more wines are being fermented to dryness. * Nevertheless, top producers remain committed to producing high-quality wines with some degree of sweetness and the best quality examples are amongst the finest in the world and still have an enthusiastic following.

Answer 21

* Sweetness was often used to mask high acidity and bitterness from under-ripe grapes. * However, German growers and producers have learnt how to ensure Riesling ripens fully and how to produce wines which balance sugar, acid and fruit characteristics.

Answer 22

* Inexpensive wines designed for early consumption often undergo thermovinification for quick extraction of colour and flavour. The wine can then be fermented off the skins to produce a fruity red with low tannins. These wines will typically not be oak matured. * By contrast, for higher-quality red wines, most particularly Pinot Noir, techniques such as cold maceration, whole bunch fermentation and maturation in oak are common.

Answer 23

* Volumes of rosé wines are relatively small, making up almost 11 per cent of domestic sales of German wines in 2018. * They tend to be sold domestically and inexpensive price points (often below the prices of whites and reds). * Most are youthful and fruity, fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel and bottled for release soon after. * There are a small number of higher-priced rosés from quality- focused producers, some of which are aged in oak barrels.

Answer 24

* Germany’s current wine laws date back to 1971, although they have been amended considerably since, creating a system that has often been criticised as confusing to consumers. * The fundamental principle of German wine law has always been to classify grapes according to their must weight at harvest. * There are few other rules regarding grape growing or winemaking, although, as previously explained, there are limited restrictions on yields.

Answer 25

There are four quality levels of German wine which are in increasing order of must weight, Deutscher Wein, Landwein, Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

Answer 26

* This covers wine without a geographical indication made exclusively from grapes grown in Germany. * Alcohol levels must be between 8.5% abv and 15% abv and they can be produced in any style. These are inexpensive wines intended to be drunk when young. * Deutscher Wein usually accounts for a tiny proportion of annual production; together, Deutscher Wein and Landwein accounted for around 4 per cent of production of the 2018 vintage.

Answer 27

* German equivalent of PGI wine. * At least 85 per cent of the grapes must originate in the Landwein region named on the label * alcohol levels must be between 8.5% abv and 15% abv * In most regions, wines can only be produced in a trocken or halbtrocken style although in a few, sweeter styles are permitted. * Landwein only makes up a tiny proportion of annual production

Answer 28

* This is a PDO category but with less stringent regulations than that of the Prädikatswein category. * The grapes must come exclusively from one of 13 designated quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete), the name of which must appear on the label. * Wines can be made in all styles and the minimum alcohol level is lower (7% abv) to allow for sweeter wines; there is no maximum alcohol level. * As for Deutscher Wein and Landwein, enrichment is permitted for Qualitätswein.

Answer 29

* The majority of everyday drinking and high volume wines come under this category, although there are also some high-quality examples as an increasing number of producers are following the VDP’s lead and labelling their dry wines as Qualitätswein trocken, and only using Prädikatswein for sweeter wines.

Answer 30

* Wines at Qualitätswein level and above must undergo laboratory analysis and a blind tasting prior to release. * Those that pass are given an ‘AP’ (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer) number, which must appear on the label. This 10 to 12 digit number indicates where and when the wine was tested, the location of the vineyard and the bottler’s specific lot number (unique for each bottling).

Answer 31

* Prädikatswein is a PDO category, but with more stringent regulations. * The grapes must come exclusively from a Bereich (one of 40 recognised wine-producing districts, smaller than Anbaugebieten), the name of which need not, and increasingly does not, appear on the label (the name of the Anbaugebiete must, however, be stated). * These are wines produced from grapes with the highest must weights and enrichment is not permitted at this level.

Answer 32

* Prädikatswein can be produced from any grape variety although it is particularly associated with Riesling. * The amount produced each year depends on the vintage. On average, Prädikatswein production is about half that of Qualitätswein, but in the best vintages the amounts produced can be around the same.

Answer 33

* Prädikat means ‘distinction’ and there are six levels, which are defined by minimum must weight. In increasing order of must weight, these are: * Kabinett * Spätlese * Auslese * Beerenauslese * Eiswein * Trockenbeerenauslese

Answer 34

* As they are produced from the grapes with the lowest must weights for Prädikatswein, Kabinett wines are the lightest in body and highest in acid. * They can be dry to medium- sweet in style: those with residual sugar can have alcohol levels as low as 7% abv (the legal minimum) but dry wines can reach 12% abv. * Kabinett Riesling is light-bodied, has high acidity and aromas of green and citrus fruit.

Answer 35

* Spätlese is produced from fully ripened grapes, which are usually picked about two weeks later than those destined for Kabinett wines. * Compared to Kabinett, these wines have a greater concentration of riper fruit flavours (typically stone fruits for Riesling), slightly higher alcohol levels (at a comparable level of residual sugar) and a fuller body. * Spätlese wines can also range from dry to medium- sweet. Similar to Kabinett and Auslese, the minimum alcohol level must be 7% abv.

Answer 36

* Auslese is made from specially-selected, extra-ripe bunches of grapes. Although bunches should be carefully selected, hand- harvesting is not compulsory and some producers harvest mechanically before sorting by hand when they reach the winery. * Auslese wines have even riper and concentrated flavours than Spätlese. The wines often have honey characteristics and some of the grapes may have been affected by botrytis which will give added complexity of flavour. * Auslese is the last category at which wines can be dry, although many of the best are sweeter in style, with a balance of sweetness and acidity that gives them potential for long bottle-ageing. For the sweeter wines, alcohol levels can again be as low as 7% abv (the legal minimum). * Because the range of must weights covered by this category is particularly wide, some producers use additional labelling terms, not defined by law, to indicate sweetness levels (see below).

Answer 37

* Beerenauslese(often shortened to BA) is made from individually selected berries and must therefore be harvested by hand. * At must weights this high, the wine will always be sweet and fermentation can be long and slow, reaching only relatively low levels of alcohol (for this reason, the minimum alcohol level for this category and that of Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese is 5.5% abv). * The berries need not be botrytized but it is a typical feature of these wines. * With Riesling, the typical flavours are of very ripe and dried stone fruit. * BA wines are only produced in years with suitable conditions for noble rot to form (brief periods of humidity, followed by dry, sunny weather) and in very small quantities. Yields are very low and the wines are very labour-intensive to produce. The wines are therefore rare and very expensive.

Answer 38

* Minimum must weights are the same as for BA but the grapes must be picked when they are frozen, at temperatures below –7°C (19°F). * The harvest can take place any time from December (or occasionally November) to February of the following year (the vintage is given as the year in which the harvest started). * Once picked, the grapes must also be pressed whilst still frozen – artificial freezing of the grapes is not permitted. * Pressing releases small quantities of naturally concentrated juice with very high levels of sugar and acid. The grapes used must be very healthy: the unpleasant flavours of any rot would be amplified along with the other flavours. * Growers waiting for their grapes to freeze regularly lose some, and sometimes all, of their crop either to disease or to predators. * Some growers are improving their chances of producing it by covering their grapes in plastic sheeting to protect them until they freeze. * Riesling Eiswein tend to have high acidity and concentrated, pure peach and grapefruit flavours. Because only very small amounts are produced, Eiswein is rare and sells at premium prices.

Answer 39

* The extremely high must weights required for Trockenbeerenauslese (often shortened to TBA) means that the grapes must have been affected by botrytis. * The shrivelled, raisin-like grapes produce tiny amounts of highly concentrated, extremely sweet wines. However, the sweetness is still balanced by high acidity and this can help the wines age elegantly for a very long time. * The high must weights mean fermentation is long and slow and rarely continues beyond 8% abv. * Yields are extremely low and so TBA wines are only made in tiny quantities (rarely more than around 100 bottles at a time) and only in suitable years. * TBA wines tend to be the most expensive wines produced in Germany.

Answer 40

* Below Beerenauslese level, wines can be produced at all sweetness levels, meaning consumers cannot easily tell how dry or sweet an Auslese, Spätlese, Kabinett or Qualitätswein may be. Many producers therefore use the EU labelling terms for sweetness – the German equivalents are as follows: * **trocken** (‘dry’) – wines with no more than 4g/l residual sugar (or up to 9 g/l where residual sugar does not exceed total acidity by more than 2g/l, as is usually the case with Riesling) * **halbtrocken** (‘off-dry’) – wines with between 4 and 12 g/l of residual sugar (or up to 18 g/l where residual sugar does not exceed total acidity by more than 10g/l) * **lieblich **(’medium / medium-sweet’) – wines with between 12 and 45g/l of residual sugar * **süss** (’sweet’) – wines with more than 45g/l of residual sugar. * These definitions are based on the level of residual sugar and do not necessarily correspond to how dry or sweet the wine tastes. A high-acid Riesling will likely taste drier than a medium- acidity Müller-Thurgau with the same amount of residual sugar.

Answer 41

* The proportion of trocken wines varies considerably between regions, with a higher proportion usually being produced in warmer regions where ripeness of fruit can balance acidity without the need for sugar (especially for the high acid Riesling grape). * For example, in 2018, trocken wines accounted for just under 50 per cent, but in Baden it represented 65 per cent and in Mosel just 30 per cent.19

Answer 42

* Wines labelled as halbtrocken have been falling in popularity in recent years as consumers increasingly turn to drier styles of wine. * Because of the potentially negative connotations, those producers who still produce wines that could be labelled as halbtrocken now either make no reference to sweetness on the label or use the term feinherb, A term with less obvious connotations and not defined by law, feinherb is used for wines which fall within the legal definition of halbtrocken but also extends to those with slightly higher levels of residual sugar.

Answer 43

* Because the band of permitted must weights is relatively wide, especially for Auslese, some producers have adopted other, unofficial, methods of indicating wines produced from grapes with higher must weights and which therefore have riper, more concentrated flavours. * They are most common in the Mosel where many producers are making wines at a range of sweetness levels. * One of these is the Goldkapsel (or ‘gold capsule’) which designates wines that are characterised by botrytis; in some cases, shorter capsules indicate wines with higher levels of concentration than the average Auslese and longer capsules a further level above that.

Answer 44

* Under the 1971 wine laws, the precise boundaries of all German vineyards were established and registered. A number of Bereiche (wine-producing districts) were identified and within them individual vineyard sites (Einzellagen) and collective vineyard sites (Grosslagen). * Currently, there are 2,658 registered Einzellagen. They range in size from less than 1ha to over 200 ha but the average is around 38 ha. Most are split between a number of different owners. * Grosslagen are much bigger, ranging in size from 600 to 1,800 ha, usually comprising several Einzellagen. Currently, 167 have been registered.21 Note that Grosslage is very different from Grosse Lage, one of the top vineyards in the VDP classification (see Wine Law and Regulations).

Answer 45

* Einzellage and Grosslage names may only be used on Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein labels. * They must usually be preceded by name of the village where the vineyard(s) are located (e.g. a wine made from grapes grown in the Goldtröpfchen vineyard in the village of Piesport would be labelled Piesporter Goldtröpfchen) unless the name of the property is so well known that it is officially permitted not to (e.g. Schloss Johannisberg and Schloss Vollrads). * However, this makes it difficult for consumers to know what the quality level of a particular wine will be. For example, in Piesport, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen is an Einzellage producing some of the finest Mosel Rieslings, whereas Piesporter Michelsberg is a Grosslage producing largely inexpensive, lower-quality wines. * To confuse matters further, in the state of Rheinland-Pfalz (which includes Ahr, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz and Rheinhessen), the names of individual plots within a vineyard site may now also be registered and added to the name of the Bereich.

Answer 46

* One other legally defined term of note is Liebfraumilch, once the mainstay of German wine exports, although sales have declined sharply since the 1980s. * It is a medium-dry white wine of Qualitätswein level with at least 18g/l residual sugar. It must contain at least 70 per cent Riesling, Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau and Kerner although, in practice, Müller-Thurgau tends to dominate the blend. The grapes must come from one of four regions. * The majority of wines came from Rheinhessen and Pfalz although some were produced in Rheingau and Nahe. A number of other style-based labelling terms have been introduced over the years but use of these terms has been limited.

Answer 47

* Given the issues surrounding the Einzellage/Grosslage system, there have been calls to create a quality hierarchy of vineyard sites. Various producers’ groups and associations have been established with the aim of creating their own vineyard or wine classification, and as part of this stipulating more stringent rules for wine production. * Of these groups, by far the best- known and most influential is the VDP.

Answer 48

* Founded in 1910, the VDP (initially under a different name) was originally a group of producers from Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Mosel who wanted to promote wines made without must enrichment, at the time called Naturweine. * However, in the late 1960s, the name and concept of Naturwein was rejected from German wine law, and in the 1971, the concept of Prädikatswein was introduced. In response, the VDP renamed itself and set up a new statute of higher standards for their members. * Today, the VDP has around 200 members across all of Germany’s main wine-producing regions, split into a number of regional associations. Members can be identified by the VDP logo (an eagle bearing a bunch of grapes) which must appear on their wine capsules.

Answer 49

* VDP members own about 5 per cent of Germany’s total vineyard area and produce about 3 per cent of annual production by volume and 7.5 per cent by value. * Riesling is the most planted variety amongst VDP members, accounting for over half of their vineyards. Just under a quarter of its members’ production is exported. * Much of the production is of dry wines, both white and red, although wines with residual sugar account for a significant proportion of VDP wine in the Mosel. Even though minimum must weights are above those required by law (often significantly so), these dry wines must be labelled Qualitätswein trocken. Prädikat levels are to be used only for wines with residual sweetness.

Answer 50

The VDP has established stricter regulations regarding grape growing and winemaking than those imposed by the German wine laws, including much lower maximum yields, higher minimum must weights and growing predominantly the traditional grape varieties for their particular region. Members agree to abide by these regulations and are audited every five years – those who are found not to comply may be excluded. The VDP also encourages sustainable viticulture; over one fifth of Germany’s certified organic producers are VDP members.

Answer 51

* VDP Gutswein * VDP Ortswein * VDP erste Lage * VDP Grosse Lage

Answer 52

These are regional wines, similar in style to generic or regional wines in Burgundy, which originate from a member’s holdings within a particular region. They must meet the general standards prescribed by the VDP. The maximum permitted yield is 75hL/ha.

Answer 53

The equivalent of village wines in Burgundy, these are produced from grape varieties that are typical of their region. The maximum permitted yield is again 75hL/ha.

Answer 54

* This designates ‘first-class’ vineyards with distinctive characteristics and is the equivalent to Burgundy premier cru. These are excellent quality wines with ageing potential. * More stringent grape growing and winemaking regulations apply. Only grape varieties which the local association has deemed to be best suited to a particular site or parcel may be used. * The maximum permitted yield is lower (60hL/ha). Grapes must be harvested by hand and must be at least ripe enough to qualify for Spätlese status. Wines must be produced using ‘traditional winemaking techniques’. * The village and the vineyard name must appear on the label

Answer 55

* The equivalent to Burgundy grand cru, these have been determined to be the best parcels in the best vineyards. The parcels have been narrowly demarcated by the local associations as those whose qualities are discernible in the finished wine. * These wines should be outstanding quality and have long ageing potential. Even stricter rules apply: maximum yields are lower than for Erste Lage wines (50hL/ha) and the choice of grape varieties is more restricted. * Permitted grape varieties differ according to the Anbaugebiete. For Grosse Lage, Riesling is allowed in all Anbaugebieten (though only for botrytised wines in Ahr) and Spätburgunder in all Anbaugebieten but Mosel and Nahe. Various other grapes may be permitted according to the Anbaugebiete. * Dry white wines cannot be released until 1st September in the year following the harvest. Red wines must spend at least 12 months ageing in oak and cannot be released until 1st September in the year after that. Sweeter Prädikat wines may be released on 1st May following the harvest. * Dry wines made from grapes from Grosse Lage are designated Grosses Gewächs. The term Grosses Gewächs cannot appear on the label; instead the VDP ‘GG’ trademark is used. Only the vineyard name appears on the label and not the village (similar to grands crus in Burgundy).

Answer 56

* The Rheingau Charta (pronounced ‘Carter’) was introduced in 1984 to promote dry wines from the best vineyard sites of the Rheingau. * The term Erstes Gewächs was introduced for the best sites in Rheingau and is now a legally-protected term for wines from these sites. To use this term on the label, wines must be produced exclusively from Riesling or Spätburgunder; grapes must be hand-harvested from lower-yielding vineyards and the wines must be dry with a minimum must weight equivalent to Spätlese. * In 1999 the members of the Charta joined the VDP in Rheingau. These members, who previously used Erstes Gewächs, can now label those wines as ‘GG’ (Grosses Gewächs).

Answer 57

* The overall categories remain the same: Deutscher Wein, Landwein, Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

Answer 58

* is wine without a geographic designation, the German term for the basic ‘wine’ category in EU legislation. The label may state the vintage and grape variety.

Answer 59

* = PGI, * wine from one of Germany’s 26 defined Landwein areas, e.g. Rheingauer Landwein. * The label may state the name of the Landwein regions where the grapes were grown but may not state a village or vineyard name.

Answer 60

* = PDO, and therefore must come from a defined origin. * The minimum must weight ranges between 50°–72° Oechsle depending on the origin. The wine may be enriched within stated limits.

Answer 61

* is a category within Qualitätswein with, in most cases, higher must weight requirements, 70°–154° Oechsle. * Enrichment is not allowed. * Qualitätswein accounts for well over 90 percent of German wine production. The tiers of the Prädikatswein system are as before and are based on must weight in combination with an approved variety with the requirements varying from region to region.

Answer 62

* The new element in the law of 2021 is a geographic hierarchy for Qualitätswein. It is based on the principle that the smaller the unit of origin, the higher the quality of the wine. Qualitatswein units large to small: Anbaugabeit (winegrowing area) > Region > Ortwein (Village) > Einzellage (Vineyard) Single Vineyard units large to small: Single vineyard, Ertes Gewachs, Grosses Gewachs

Answer 63

wine growing area, the lowest level tier of Qualitätswein. The grapes must be grown in one of 13 German wine regions (Mosel, Rheingau, etc.).

Answer 64

* The region category replaces both Bereich and Grosslage of the former regulations. * The label must state ‘region’ on the label.

Answer 65

* village wine. The label must bear the name of the village.

Answer 66

* single vineyard. The wine can be dry or sweet. It must be made from one or more recommended grape varieties and be of Kabinett quality (i.e. meet the minimum must weight for Kabinett within its region). * There are two further categories within the single vineyard category, Erstes Gewächs (first growth) and Grosses Gewächs (great growth). These categories have further requirements:

Answer 67

* The grapes must come from single vineyard or smaller parcel within a classified site. * The wines must be made from a single grape variety (minimum 85% and only recommended varieties approved within the region of origin). * The wines must be dry (i.e. within rules for Trocken). * For both these top categories, it is possible to indicate a smaller parcel, known as a Gewann, as long as it entered into the vineyard register.

Answer 68

* The grapes must be picked selectively (i.e. can be harvested by any means but must be subject to selection). * Yields are limited to a maximum of 60 hL/ ha or 70 hL/ha on steep slopes with a minimum natural alcohol of 11 per cent. * The wines have to pass a sensory test by a tasting commission if ordered by the regional bodies * The wines are subject to specified release dates (1 March of the following year).

Answer 69

* The grapes must be handpicked. * Yields are limited to a maximum yield of 50 hL/ha with a minimum natural alcohol content of 12 per cent. * The wines have to pass a sensory test by a tasting commission. * The wines are subject to specified release dates. (1 September of the following year for white wines and 1 March of the next year for red wines)

Answer 70

* Ahr * Mosel * Rheingau * Nahe * Rhinehessen * Pfalz * Baden * Wurttemberg * Franken

Answer 71

* Ahr is one of Germany’s smallest wine-producing regions with only a few hundred hectares under vine. It is also one of the most northerly: yet black grape varieties dominate, with 83 per cent of plantings. This is made possible because the river Ahr cuts a narrow, sheltered valley with steep, south-facing slopes and the soil is dominated by heat-retaining dark slate and greywacke (a dark sandstone). * Traditionally, black grapes were late harvested in Ahr and were produced with residual sweetness. However, the region is now a source of very good Spätburgunder, fermented to dryness with relatively high tannins and spice notes from oak ageing. * Wines from small estates are increasingly making their way on to the export market, although co-operatives still produce around three- quarters of Ahr wine. The Mayschoss co-operative was formed in 1868 and is thought to be the oldest co-operative in the world.

Answer 72

* One of Germany’s best-known wine regions, Mosel is famous for producing some of the world’s greatest Rieslings. Whites make up over 90 per cent of plantings and Riesling over 60 per cent on its own. * It is one of the most northerly wine-producing regions in Germany and site selection is essential to ensure grapes can ripen. The best vineyards are on the steep, south-facing slopes overlooking the Mosel which enjoy the best sun exposure and, to a much smaller extent, sunshine reflected from the river. The dark-coloured slate soil also plays an important part in radiating heat. * The slate soils come in a variety of colours – grey, blue, brown and red – and producers are increasingly interested in how subtle differences can influence the characteristics and aromas of their wines.

Answer 73

* The Mosel is generally split into three sections: the Upper Mosel, Middle Mosel and Lower Mosel. * The Middle Mosel is the largest and is home to the majority of the best vineyards. * Vineyards particularly famous for their quality include (village mentioned first, then vineyards in brackets): Brauneberg (Juffer, Juffer-Sonnenuhr), Erden (Treppchen, Prälat), Graach (Himmelreich, Domprobst), Ürzig (Würzgarten), Wehlen (Sonnenuhr), Bernkastel (Doctor) and Piesport (Goldtröpfchen). (Note, on a wine label the Einzellage name would be presented as, for example, Bernkasteler Doctor.)

Answer 74

* Mosel Rieslings are paler in colour, lighter in body, with lower alcohol and higher acidity than those from elsewhere and have pronounced floral and green fruit aromas. The balance of acidity and flavour intensity gives these wines potential for long bottle ageing. * Whilst drier wines are now increasingly produced, Mosel has a strong reputation for producing sweeter styles of wine in the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese categories and also for sweet Rieslings. The winters are almost always cold enough to produce Eiswein.

Answer 75

* The topography of the steepest sites means that working the vineyards is expensive and labour intensive. * The low yields required to make the sweetest wines such as BA and TBA also impact on cost of production. These costs, alongside the quality of many Mosel Rieslings, means that wine prices are amongst the most expensive in Germany. * However, there are flatter sites, for example around Piesport, which are used for producing less complex, inexpensive wines, particularly from Müller-Thurgau, much of it bottled by the region’s merchant houses.

Answer 76

* About 20 per cent of the region’s wine is produced by the Moselland co-operative in Bernkastel, making it the world’s largest producer of Riesling.25 The Mosel is home both to small producers (for example, among many others, Egon Müller and Markus Molitor) and to major wine companies such as F.W. Langguth who source wine for the large Erben and Blue Nun brands (among its other brands) from other parts of Germany and other countries.

Answer 77

* The region also covers the valleys of the rivers Saar and Ruwer, both tributaries of the Mosel. The best vineyards are located in the sheltered side valleys of these rivers, with south, south-east and south-west aspects. * Due to the slightly higher altitude of the vineyards, temperatures are a little lower in the Saar and Ruwer than in the Middle Mosel and acidity levels in the wines can be even higher. There are a number of highly reputed vineyards in these relatively small areas, the most famous of which is Scharzhofberg in Saar.

Answer 78

* Rheingau is a small but highly prestigious region producing some of Germany’s highest quality and most ageworthy Rieslings. * Across the river from Rheinhessen, it is also protected from cold, northerly winds by the western end of the Taunus Mountains, which, along with the south-facing aspect of its vineyards, means that Rieslings here can be fuller-bodied, with riper fruit characteristics than those of the Mosel. * The Rhine is also much wider here – about 1 km (0.6 mile) across. It has a moderating influence on temperatures reducing frost risk. It also increases humidity providing conditions that are perfect for the development of botrytis in the autumn.

Answer 79

* In Rheingau, the focus is primarily on quality. Yields are lower than average for Germany. The best vineyards are situated on steep slopes around Rüdesheim, Geisenheim (home of the famous research institute), Johannisberg, Hattenheim and Erbach. * Sites on the mid-slope are thought to be subject to the best conditions, at least for dry wines; receiving some moderating influence from the river, but far enough away to avoid much of the humidity that can lead to fungal diseases. * Soils range from sand, loam and loess around Hochheim in the east, to sandstone and slate further west.

Answer 80

* White wines dominate, accounting for 86 per cent of plantings, with Riesling being especially dominant here (making up 78 per cent alone). * The majority of these wines are made in a dry style (indeed the country-wide trend for producing drier styles of wines arguably started in the Rheingau): however, Rheingau is also reputed for its botrytised sweet wines. * At the western end, around Assmannshausen, where the river turns to head north again, Spätburgunder is the key grape. The steep south and south-west facing Höllenberg vineyard is renowned for producing relatively full-bodied Pinot Noirs of very good to outstanding quality.*

Answer 81

* Situated between Mosel and Rheinhessen, Nahe consists of a relatively small number of vineyards, mainly small estates, scattered over a relatively large area. This results in a wide variety of soils and growing conditions, although the region as a whole is protected by the Hunsrück Mountains, resulting in mild temperatures and low rainfall. * Where the slopes are gentle, the soil is deeper and more fertile. As well as producing some inexpensive wines from Müller-Thurgau, the region’s second most planted variety, these sites also produce some good and very good quality wines from Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. * Dornfelder is the most planted red variety, ahead of Spätburgunder, but black varieties only make up just under a quarter of plantings.

Answer 82

* This is predominantly a white wine region: white varieties account for just over three- quarters of all plantings with Riesling leading the way at nearly 30 per cent. * As it is slightly warmer, Nahe Rieslings have slightly lower levels of acidity but riper fruit flavours and more body than those from Mosel, though less so than those from Rheingau and Rheinhessen.

Answer 83

* The vineyards in the east of region, particularly those on the south-facing banks of the Nahe between Schlossböckelheim and Bad Kreuznach have some of the warmest conditions, benefitting from the moderating influences of the Rhine and Nahe rivers, and gaining maximum sunlight. * In this strip, the slopes can be as steep as in Mosel. The soils are a mixture of slate and sandstone.

Answer 84

Cooler conditions can be found to the west of the region, where harvesting can be a couple of weeks later. Significant producers include Weingut Dönnhof and Emrich-Schönleber.

Answer 85

* Rheinhessen is home to just under a quarter of German vineyards. It is also the largest in terms of production and yields are amongst the highest in Germany. * It is a relatively warm and dry region, sheltered by various mountain ranges including the Hunsrück and Taunus. * The majority of its vineyards are planted on the warm, fertile valley floors which are ideal for the production of high volume, inexpensive wines: Liebfraumilch originated from Worms in the southern Rheinhessen.

Answer 86

* White grapes dominate in Rheinhessen with 71 per cent of plantings. Riesling is the most planted variety, just ahead of Müller-Thurgau, which, along with the other German crosses, is mainly used in inexpensive blends * There are also sizeable plantings of Silvaner, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. Dornfelder is the leading black variety, covering over double the vineyard area of Spätburgunder. * Bulk production still dominates – and plantings are still on the rise to supply it. The majority of this production is under the control of merchant houses. Quality wine production is dominated by small estates and a number of co-operatives.

Answer 87

* A stretch of steeply-sloping vineyards on the west bank of the river around Nierstein and Oppenheim. The east-facing aspect of these vineyards mean they receive the warming morning sun in the coolest part of the day, enhancing ripeness. * Proximity to the Rhine and its moderating influence also means that evening and autumn temperatures remain warmer than in vineyard areas away from the river, extending the ripening period. As a result, Rieslings from this area often show ripe lemon and peach flavours. * Within the Rheinterrasse, the vineyards within the strip known as Roter Hang around Nierstein and neighbouring Nackenheim are particularly reputed. The Roter Hang is distinguished by its Rotliegenden soil, an iron-rich red soil consisting of slate, clay and sandstone. Rieslings from the Roter Hang are said to show smoky characteristics.

Answer 88

Vineyards in the Wonnegau area in south Rheinhessen are also now gaining a reputation for high-quality Riesling and Spätburgunder. These vineyards also benefit from the moderating influence of the Rhine. Significant producers include Weingut Gunderloch on the Rheinterrasse and Weingut Keller closer to Worms.

Answer 89

* A narrow strip of vineyards squeezed between the Haardt Mountains to the west and the Rhine plain to the east: unusually for Germany, the vineyards of Pfalz are not centred along a river valley. The region runs north from Alsace: the Haardt are a continuation of the Vosges and produce a similar rain shadow effect, making Pfalz the driest German wine-producing region and the only one where drought can be a concern.

Answer 90

* The area under vine is only slightly smaller than Rheinhessen and production is not far behind. Again, white grape varieties dominate with 65 per cent of plantings, Riesling accounts for around a quarter of total plantings, followed by Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. * Due to the warmer temperatures, Pfalz wines tend to be slightly fuller-bodied with riper fruit flavours than those from Rheinhessen. The climate also suggests considerable potential for red wine production: currently, Dornfelder is the most planted black variety, and second overall, but there are also significant plantings of Spätburgunder.

Answer 91

* The most renowned vineyards are in an area known as the Mittelhaardt around Bad Dürkheim, Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg in the northern part of Pfalz. * The south- or east-facing steeply-sloping vineyards in the foothills of the Haardt gain maximum sunshine and are protected from winds, contributing to the production of ripe, full-bodied Riesling. * There is a wide variety of soils, including limestone, sandstone, basalt and clay, which producers are exploiting to give wines of differing characteristics and flavours.

Answer 92

* Further south, the Südliche Weinstrasse, with its more fertile sandstone soils, was traditionally an area for inexpensive wine production. However, in recent years, a new generation of winemakers has led to an increase in quality in the wines from this area, particularly for Spätburgunder, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. Like Alsace, this southern part of the Pfalz has experienced periods of both French and German rule, and is one reason, alongside suitable climatic factors, that Pinot grapes continue to be common in the area.

Answer 93

* As in Rheinhessen, high-volume production is dominated by merchant houses, whilst higher quality wines tend to come from small estates and a number of quality-focused co- operatives. Significant producers include Dr. Bürklin-Wolf and the co-operative Winzerverein Deidesheim.

Answer 94

* The wine region of Baden is split into multiple distinct areas (Bereiche). The main vineyard area stretches from just north of Heidelberg to the Swiss border in the south. There are also vineyards between Franken and Württemberg, and around the east of the Bodensee (Lake Constance). * The main vineyard area is situated on the eastern side of the Rhine opposite Alsace and also benefits from the rain shadow of the Vosges. This, coupled with its relatively southerly latitude, overall makes Baden Germany’s warmest, sunniest and driest wine- producing regions.

Answer 95

* Baden is best known for its red wines. Spätburgunder is the most planted variety and those produced in Baden are amongst Germany’s best with complex flavours, often enhanced by oak ageing. They come in a variety of styles thanks to Baden’s varied soils and microclimates. * The steep, south-facing slopes around Kaiserstuhl, an extinct volcano, produce the fullest-bodied wines with high alcohol and complex, smoky ripe fruit flavours. * In cooler areas, such as the Bereich of Ortenau, and on the significant pockets of calcareous soil, such as around the Bereiche of Tuniberg and Breisgau, the wines have more acidity and more delicate fruit flavours.

Answer 96

* Despite its reputation for red wine, 59 per cent of Baden’s plantings are white. The warm, dry conditions make Baden ideal for the production of high volume, inexpensive blends and Müller-Thurgau is the second most planted variety. * However, Baden has also been developing a reputation for very good Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay, often matured in oak. * Riesling only takes up a relatively small area in Baden but some high-quality, fuller-bodied examples are produced at all Prädikat levels.

Answer 97

* Whilst there are many small estates (for example, Bernhard Huber), co-operatives are responsible for around 75 per cent of Baden’s production, led by the Badischer Winzerkeller located in Breisach and one of the largest in Germany.

Answer 98

* Located around Stuttgart, to the east of Baden and south of Franken, Württemberg currently produces mainly light, fruity red wines which are mostly consumed on the domestic market. * The vast majority of production comes from the central co-operative, Möglingen. However, this is starting to change as a number of smaller estates are gaining a reputation for producing very good quality wines, especially on the steep, terraced vineyards above the river Neckar and tributaries.

Answer 99

* The warm summer temperatures are ideal for red wine production and 68 per cent of plantings are black grape varieties. However, whilst Spätburgunder is increasingly important, the most planted black varieties are Trollinger, Lemberger and Schwarzriesling, giving producers a potential point of difference on export markets. * As well as the traditional light and fruity style, fuller- bodied examples with riper fruit flavours, higher alcohol are increasingly being produced particularly from Lemberger, often with oak ageing. Riesling accounts for over half of all white plantings. * Significant producers in Württemberg include Rainer Schnaitmann and the large co-operative Württembergische Weingärtner.

Answer 100

* The vineyards of Franken create a W-shaped course along the south-facing slopes of the river Main and its tributaries. Being further east, Franken has the most continental climate of Germany’s principal wine region, meaning warmer summers but a shorter growing season with cooler autumns and harsh winters. Spring frosts are a particular hazard. * White grapes account for 82 per cent of plantings and the production of drier styles is a more long-standing tradition than elsewhere. The most planted variety is Müller-Thurgau, whereas Riesling makes up a relatively small proportion of plantings. * To the west of the region, steep terraces of sandstone produce some very good Spätburgunder, amongst the most well-renowned producer is Weingut Rudolf Fürst.

Answer 101

* However, it is the second most planted variety, Silvaner, which produces some of the region’s best and most distinctive wines (although plantings have fallen considerably in the last 30 years). Silvaner is an early-budding and early ripening variety, meaning it can reach full ripeness before temperatures fall in the autumn. * This also makes it susceptible to spring frost but, due to its historical significance in the region, Silvaner tends to get the best sites, which are less frost prone. * Very good Silvaner wines are produced on south and south-east facing slopes of chalky soils around the town of Würzburg, giving full-bodied dry wines with floral and wet stone aromas.

Answer 102

* Many Franken wines are bottled in the traditional Bocksbeutel, a flat, round-shaped bottle with a short neck. Much of Franken’s production is consumed locally but its distinctive wines are starting to gain recognition on export markets. There are a number of high-quality estates, including Horst Sauer and a few owned by charitable institutions, such as Bürgerspital and Juliusspital.

Answer 103

* In 2016, Germany had just under 16,000 wine growers, with approximately half owning vineyards of 3 ha or less.26 However, the number of growers has fallen by over 20 per cent since 2010, despite a slight increase in the area under vine. This increase has mainly been in the flatter, valley sites where vineyards continue to be planted for bulk wine production.

Answer 104

* For vineyards on the steeper slopes in particular, the high cost of labour and low yields, particularly for sweeter wines, coupled with vintage variation result in high production costs. Although such wines often command higher prices, for some growers the cost of farming the land is unsustainable against the prices customers are prepared to pay, hence the reduction in the number of growers in recent years.

Answer 105

* Germany’s best wines are mainly produced by wine estates which grow and vinify their own grapes.27 Estates vary enormously in size, from over 100 ha to small family concerns of 5 ha and under. * Some were established many centuries ago by the Church (e.g. Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach), aristocratic families (e.g. Schloss Vollrads) and charitable organisations (e.g. Bürgerspital and Juliusspital). * However, there has also recently been an emergence of estates run by a new breed of highly-skilled and knowledgeable winemakers. * The German Wine Institute initiated Generation Riesling in 2005 to give young winemakers (under 35 years of age) in Germany a national and international promotional platform.

Answer 106

* Many growers, however, sell their grapes to merchant houses (Weinkellerei) which are one of the main sources of the higher-volume wines, or process them through a co-operative.' * Germany was one of the first wine-producing countries to establish co-operatives and, although the number has been falling slightly, they remain a very important part of the German wine industry. Co-operatives receive the crop from about 30 per cent of the total German vineyard area and over three-quarters of production in Baden and Württemberg. * Many are now quality-focused with considerable grape growing and winemaking expertise and technology. In particular, despite being one of the biggest co-operatives in Germany, the Badischer Winzerkeller in Baden has been developing a range of small- volume bottlings of high-quality wines.

Answer 107

* The domestic market has always been very important and the shift to drier styles of wine and the increase in red wine production were heavily influenced by changing tastes amongst German consumers. * Despite still being very much a beer-drinking country, Germany is the fourth largest consumer of wine in the world at approximately 20 million hL in 2018.30 It cannot satisfy this thirst purely from homegrown production and routinely imports 14–15 million hL per year.

Answer 108

* The volume of German wine exports has almost halved this century. In the first decade of the 2000s, Germany regularly exported around 2 million hL each year, accounting for between 20 and 25 per cent of total production. By the mid-2010s, exports had fallen to around 1 million hL per year (and have since remained there), closer to 10 per cent of total production. However, in the same period, the average price had risen from below €200 to €300 per hL. This has been influenced by a reduction in the shipping of bulk wine and an increase in bottled exports, which are significantly higher in value per unit volume, as part of a strategy of the Deutsches Weininstitut (see below). * The top five export markets by volume are the USA, the Netherlands, the UK, Norway and Sweden. The USA and Norway are particularly important in terms of sales value per unit volume, whereas the average price of exports to the UK and the Netherlands is considerably lower due to the continued, but shrinking, presence of inexpensive wines, often Liebfraumilch, on supermarket shelves.

Answer 109

* The German wine industry’s promotional body, the Deutsches Weininstitut (DWI, or German Wine Institute), seeks to promote the quality and sales of German wines in the domestic and export markets. Most notably, they run a ‘Riesling Weeks’ campaign in 13 different countries, that encourage retailers and restaurants to promote German wines for a defined period (from a week to a month) each year.