Smelling, Odour Description & Classification

Question 1

What are the 4 steps to the techniques of smelling?

Answer 1

Smelling Blotters, Sample, Smelling, Workplace

Question 2

Describe smelling blotter technique

Answer 2

13-15cm long & 0.5-1cm wide

Question 3

Describe sample

Answer 3

Dilute Solutions
For alcoholic perfumery work:
- alcohol as solvent, allow it to evaporate fully before smelling
For soaps, lotions etc
- choice of solvent, should be similar to product base

Neat, undiluted form
- keep smelling to a few inhalations

Question 4

How should you smell a sample?

Answer 4

Do not sniff directly at bottle, use blotter/ wave hand above bottle to get whiffs
Why?
- risk of sniffing finely powdered materials
- olfactory fatigue

Question 5

What conditions should the workplace have?

Answer 5

Well ventilated, slight overpressure in working area, odourless, quiet

Question 6

Does the same natural product e.g. Jasmine absolute have different smells if its grown in different regions?

Answer 6

Yes.
Grasse: Jasmine, floral, fresh
Egypt: Jasmine, floral, sweet, warm

Question 7

What are the 12 different odour types?

Answer 7

Odour TYPES often refers to a physical source (e.g. something found in nature)

1. Floral (jasmine,rose)
   - Sweet Floral (jasmine)
   - Spicy Floral (rose)
2. Woody (cedarwood)
3. Musky (Musk)
4. Balsamic (Frankincense)
5. Earthy (Oakmoss)
6. Mossy (Treemoss)
7. Amber (Ambergris)
8. Fruity (Pear)
   - Citrus/Citrine (Bergamot)
9. Herbaceous (lavendar)
10. Green (galbanum)
11. Minty (Peppermint)
12. Spicy (Cinnamon)

Question 8

What are the 11 odour characteristics?

Answer 8

Odour CHARACTERISTICS borrow terms from senses

1. Dry (Patchouli)
2. Sweet (Rose)
3. Light (Lavendar)
4. Heavy (Tuberose)
5. Fresh (Bergamot)
6. Cool (Menthol)
7. Warm (Ginger)
8. Smooth (Sandalwood)
9. Rich (Jasmine)
10. Soft (Sandalwood)
11. Sharp (lemon)

Question 9

What is Rimmel’s odour classification system? (18 types)

Answer 9

1. Almondy
2. Amber
3. Anise
4. Balsamic
5. Camphoraceous
6. Caryophyllaceous
7. Citrine
8. Fruity
9. Jasmine
10. Lavendar
11. Minty
12. Musky
13. Orange Flower
14. Rosaceous
15. Sandal
16. Spicy
17. Tuberose
18. Violet

Question 10

How does Piesse arrange/describe odours?

Answer 10

Compared odours to sounds (octaves, notes)

Question 11

How should we prepare odour samples according to Poucher’s odour classification system?

Answer 11

Liquids;
- Dip smelling strip into liquid 
- Sample weight: 80-100mg
- max stain length: 2.5 inch
Solids:
- prep as 10% solution in diethyl phthalate 
- sample vol: 1 ml on smelling strip

Question 12

Important!

How does Poucher classify perfume notes?

Answer 12

Listed in order of volatility 
- grouped under respective evaporation coeffs (1-100)
Top notes: 1-14
Middle notes: 15-60
Base notes: 61-100

Question 13

What are some top notes?

Answer 13

Acetophenone
Lime
Lavendar
Bergamot
Peppermint 
Sweet Orange
Lemongrass

Question 14

What are some middle notes?

Answer 14

Verbena
Clary sage
Ylang
Jasmine & rose absolutes
neroli

Question 15

What are some basic notes?

Answer 15

Cinnamic alcohol
Angelica root
Coumarin
Vetiver
Musk

Question 16

Describe erogenic

Answer 16

Essences that have “animal” quality, reminiscent of body odours
e.g. ambergris, civet, musk

Question 17

What is narcotic?

Answer 17

Intoxicating

e.g. Benzoin, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang

Question 18

Name some stimulating odours

Answer 18

Spicy, bitter or menthol odours

e.g. Eucalyptus, Ginger, peppermint

Question 19

What is anti-erogenic?

Answer 19

Refreshing, acidic, sharp, cooling

e.g. lemon, lime, pine

Question 20

What are some scents that have effects of mental stimulants

Answer 20

basil, peppermint, pine

Question 21

Scents with relaxing effects?

Answer 21

Vetiver, Mandarin, clary sage

Question 22

What is the odour effects diagram

Answer 22

Four corners:

Fresh, Gentle, Active, Rich