Eye Cosmetics Flashcards
Why is the eyelid thin?
It must be thin enough for rapid movement yet strong enough to protect the tender eye tissues
What glands are present on the eyelids?
Highest conc of sebaceous glands found on the eyelids
What status does the eyes reflect?
Eyes are affected by immune system status
Name the basic Ingredients inside eyeshadow?
Binder: Talc & Magnesium stearate
Oil absorption: Kaolin
What ingredient is used in pastel eye shadows to improve coverage?
Titanium dioxide (TiO2)
What is used to give a pearly shine to eyeshadows?
Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) & fish scale essence
What about for a metallic finish?
Copper, aluminium, gold or silver
What are the ingredients in water-resistant eye shadow?
Higher content of oily binder
Contain pigments in petrolatum, cocoa butter, beeswax or lanolin
Name a problem of such water-resistant eye shadow
Short wearing time due to tendency to migrate into eyelid folds
Should use eyeshadow setting creams before eyeshadow as they provide an adherent base
Does the eyelid itself have any hair?
No
What are eyelashes made of?
A mixture of dead cells that have been keratinised (95%), binding melanin granules & small amts of water
Are eyelashes similar in composition to scalp hair?
Yes but they have slower growth & typically last for 3 mths before falling out
What is the role of eyelashes?
Protect eyes from debris & signal eyelid to reflexively close the eye when something is too close
Purpose of mascara?
To darken, thicken & lengthen eyelashes
Common pigments to produce the colour in mascara?
Black: Iron oxide
Navy: Ultramarine blue
Brown: Amber
What are water-based mascaras and what is the most pressing problem?
They are oil-in-water emulsions that contain beeswax in addition to pigments dissolved in water -> less prone to irritation but more prone to microbial contamination
Problem: Smudges with perspiration/tearing & needs preservatives.
What are solvent-based mascaras?
Waterproof mascaras with petroleum distillates to which pigments & waxes are added but requires surfectants to remove which can be more irritating to the eyes
Preservatives are still added but less microbial contamination since petroleum-based solvent is anti-bacterial.
What is a hybrid mascara?
Product that is less irritating like water-based mascara but provides water-resistant properties like a solvent-based mascara
e.g. contains both water and paraffin
Role of an eyeliner?
Define the margins of the eyes
What are pencil eyeliners made of and what is its advantage
Contains natural and synthetic waxes combined with pigments, mineral oils & lanolin derivatives
Advantage: re-sharpening decreases contamination
What is eyeliner tattooing?
Involves the intradermal insertion of black pigment on or outside of the upper & lower eyelash line
BUT dye sometimes migrates and gets smudged
Are there any OTC eyelash dyes?
No due to the risk of eye damage
but they are still used by albinos and should not be used more than every 3 wks
What are some problems about artificial eyelashes (falsies)?
Can trap bacteria & the methacrylate-based glue is a known sensitiser
Are the same dyes for scalp hair used for eyebrows?
Yes, eyebrow dyes can use the same dyes for the scalp BUT should not be used in the eye area/eyelashes
should alw do a patch test before that
What are the 4 main problematic classes of ingredients in terms of health safety in cosmetics?
- Preservatives
- Colour additives
- Biological additives
- Herbal additives
Are preservatives necessary in cosmetics?
Yes, without preservatives, the lipids in formulations would rapidly oxidise rendering the cream rancid or bacterial contamination would render product unsafe.
2 functions:
- spoilage prevention before usage
- contamination prevention after purchase
Most common allergenic grp of substances after fragrances
Name the most popular preservative
Parabens, sometimes replaced by Kathon CG (Cosmetic grade)
Although Kathon is a much greater cause of skin sensitisation
What is parabens most effective against?
Gram positive bacteria and fungi
Sometimes used in combination with phenoxyethanol to provide better gram negative coverage
Function of triclosan?
Antibacterial and antifungal
Disadvantages of triclosan?
Builds up bacterial resistance, normal soap itself is able to clean up to 82% of bacteria.
Triclosan gives a small increase e.g. 85% only
As of 2017, FDA prohibits the sale of “consumer antiseptic washes” containing triclosan
When can we use amines as a preservative?
Amines seem safe in rinse-off products only when formulated to be non-irritating
Should NOT be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed
Majority of the salts function as surfectants & preservatives, the others are reported to function as pH adjustors
Function of formaldehyde?
Preservative, industrial fungicide, germicide and disinfectant
Sometimes formed as a by-product when in contact with water
Banned in Japan & Sweden
What does 1,4-Dioxane do?
Creates suds
FDA encourages manufacturers to remove 1,4-dioxane but not required by law
Main role of phthalates?
Used as plasticizers (substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability & longevity)
Often used as ingredients in fragrances but since it is not req to declare the breakdown of fragrances, many consumers will not know if their product has phthalates or not
What are some other ways to reduce contamination
Packaging: Oxygen-free dispenser, one-way valve
Natural preservatives e.g. essential oils
What substances absorb preservatives?
Titanium dioxide & Zinc oxide absorbs preservatives thus lowering the effective concentration
What are natural preservatives?
Essential oils and fragrances with antimicrobial capabilities
E.g. neem oil, clove oil, cinnamon oil, eucalyptus oil, rose oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, rosemary extract etc.
Products that claim to be conservative free may actly incorporate one aromatic preservative
Name the 3 classifications of colour additives
- FD&C colourants -> used in food, drugs & cosmetics
- D&C -> drugs & colourants
- External D&C -> externally applied drugs & cosmetics (excl lips and parts covered by mucous membrane)
FD&C safest class
What are colours divided into?
Soluble (e.g. in water, alcohol & oil | impart colour only when in solution)
Insoluble (organic such as pigments & inorganic such as oxides & metals)
Which dye is shown to be comedogenic?
D&C Red dyes
What are the 8 biological additives?
- Amniotic fluid
- Blood derivatives
- Collagen
- Egg extract
- Elastin
- Hyaluronic acid
- Keratin
- Placenta
What are the advantages & disadvantages of herbal additives
They are more popular & less problematic than biological additives BUT many are contaminated with herbicides & heavy metals
Name 3 herbal additives
- Aloe
- Avocado, sesame & tea tree oil
- Allantoin & alpha-bisabolol (chamomile extract)
Name 3 vitamin additives
- Vitamin C (water soluble)
- Vitamin E (lipid soluble)
- Carotenoids & niacinamide
