ropes Flashcards
mechanical advantage
the ratio of the force applied to the load compared to the force applied to the input of the system
high line tensioning formula
(span x load)/(4x sag)
11mm high line, want __ sag
10%
7mm (9/32) cord
10kn
8mm (5/16) cord
3000lbs
15kn
11mm (7/16) rope
30kn
13mm (1/2) rope
40kn
aluminum carabiner
L rated
G rated
L rated: 27kn
G rated; 40KN
steel caribiner
40kn
pulley
36kn
scarab
rope breaks at 26kn
25mm tubular webbing
18kn
25mm flat webbing
26kn
w2p1 tub
25kn
w3p2 tub
36kn
radium release
35 kn
tandem prussik
clutch at 10-14kn
single prussik
clutch at 9-13kn
ABCDE safety check
anchors, belay, carabiners, Decent Control Device, edge,
fall factor
length of the fall divided by the amount of rope between the rescuer, the anchor/ belayer. 2.0= 20ft fall with 10’ of rope to the anchor
deceleration forces greater than ___ begin to produce spinal injuries
12kn
don’t exceed a ___ fall factor
0.3 falling 1m on 3m of rope
kern
core
mantle
sheath
5/8 (16mm) rope
57kn
minimum breaking strength for rope in one/two system
4,500
9,000
10:1 safety factor
12 things to check on a rope
unusual wear, cuts, exposed core, excessive wear on sheath, discoloration, burn marks, soft spots, kinks, bulges, inconsistent texture and flexibility, unequal thickness, excessive dirt
ropes should be retired
6 things
- excessive wear to sheath
- when more than half of the outer sheath yarns are broken in one place
- after severe shock
- contaminated by chems
- worn out from use or age
- after 5yrs of service life
1/2” rope should use ___ pussik cord
8mm
test for pussiks on rope
pinch test: pinch pussik, more than cord dia space, too stiff
triangular screw links
10,000lbs
45kn
break bar: ___ bars should be used for single person
4
540 rescue belay
70kn
break rack
45+
knots: leave ___ of tail
1.5-2”
rescue knots are:
6 things
easy to tie and ID
will not work loose on their own
minimally reduce strengtht easy to untie
untied before storage
bowline requires a safety knot. T/F
T
water knot needs ___ tail
1”
RRH is made up of
10m of 8mm cord and 2 biners
Personal pussiks use two wraps ___ and three wraps on ___
foot prussiks
short chest prussik
order of personal prussiks on rope from top to bottom
short, long, medium
single picket
1-1-1
3-2-1
700lbf
1,800
4,000
pickets are driven in ___ ft
at ___ angle
__ft apart with a ____ ft webbing
2 stable, 3 unstable
15
3
20
simple pulley system
one rope with all pulleys travel at the same speed
compound pulley system
one simple system working on another simple system
complex pulley system
not simple or compound
ex: spanish burton
static system safety factor
3 things to remember
10:1
material strength (1/3 lost due to knots)
vector angles
amount of load
with load at center-span, max for on highline is a multiple of
-is 1/2” rope
12
18
bailout hook and rope rating
hook: 13.5kn
rope: 17.4kn 3,900lbs
