Pruning Flashcards
Describe the formative pruning for an apple tree from whip to productive, open centred bush
Prune when tree is dormant between November and March.
Year 1 - unfeathered whip - Prune to a bud 75cm above the ground with 3 or 4 healthy buds below. Do not allow it to fruit.
Year 2 - If topmost shoot is too vertical, prune to just above a wider angled branch. Select the best 3 to 5 shoots to make the framework and remove the rest. Shorten selected shoots by half. Cut just above an outward facing bud. Remove remaining lower branches. Allow a couple of fruits to develop.
Year 3 - Shorten main branches by one third, leaving 8 to 10 branches to form permanent framework. Leave side branches of main stems unpruned unless they are crossing or growing towards the centre of the tree. Remove any strong upright shoots at the top of the tree.
Describe the maintenance pruning of a spur bearing apple tree
Prune between November and early March.
Remove dead, diseased, dying, crossing, rubbing and weak branches.
Shorten previous years growth on each main branch by one third. Leave young laterals unpruned so they can develop fruit buds in the second year, unless they are crossing or crowded.
Remove strong shoots growing towards the centre of the tree.
Thin out congested spur systems by removing spurs on the underside of branches.
Describe the importance of formative and maintenance pruning for tree shape and yield
A good framework of branches allows the tree to have good air flow, and it can support itself when it has set fruit. Maintenance pruning ensures there is a good cycle of fruiting wood. It stops trees becoming congested and improves production and yield. It can also control where the fruit is produced, which improves quality - eg removing spurs from below branches as they will receive the least sun there.
