Portugal Flashcards
Climate
The western part is strongly influenced by the Atlantic bringing cool rainy weather (particularly northwest). This can impact flowering and fruitset, fungal diseases, harvest.
Mountain ranges protect the inland northerly regions giving them a continental climate and a drier growing season.
The warmer drier south is characterized by rolling hills and plains.
With climate change, drought has been a noticeable factor especially in inland continental areas like Douro, Dao, Alentejo.
Extreme events like hailstorms (Douro) and wildfires (Dao 2017)
Soil types
Schist and granite in the mountainous regions (Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao) and hilly outcrops in Alentejo.
Further south (Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo, Peninsula de Setubal) have more varied soils. Some clay with limestone; some sandy
Fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks like in Tejo
General Viticulture
190,000 ha down from 275,000 in 1989. A lot of high producing areas on alluvial soils in Tejo and Vinho Verde were grubbed up after EU ascension
Replanting focusing on quality material and sites.
Esca and Grapemoth are common hazards.
Majority are cordon and spur pruned or replacement cane VSP. A sig number of old bush vines can be found in Douro and Alentejo and a smaller number in Dao and Bairrada. Usually in a field blend. Modern are one variety or varietal blocks.
Irrigation is now generally allowed with some areas having light controls. Generally only allowed when a lack of water could jeopardize quality not for boosting yields.
2,700ha by 500 growers are certified organic. Many more tend organically but do not feel certification is worth it.
Grapes
Aragonez / Tinta Roriz: 21,000 Touriga Franca: 14,000 Touriga Nacional: 13,000 Fernao Pires / Maria Gomes (W): 12,000 Castelao (R): 9,000 Trincadeira: 9,000 Baga: 8,000 Loureiro: 6,000 Arinto / Pedema (W): 5,000 Syrah: 5,000 Roupeiro (W): 5,000 Alicante Bouschet: 5,000
Wine Laws & Regulations
DOC/DOP: Traditional Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC) and modern Denominacao de Origem Protegida are widely used.
30 DOC’s each with own regulations. All must be officially tested, tasted, approved.
VR: Vinho Regional is widely used term for PGI wines.
14 VR’s with less stringent regulations. Often permit international varieties.
Vinho: wines that are not PDO or PGI
Wine Business
Grape growing is 35% of the national agricultural output (highest in world).
Still unfortified wine production 5.8mhL in 2017.
Until the Carnation Revolution of 1974 grapes were sold to coops who made bulk wine that was shipped to former colonies in Africa. High vol brands like Mateus Rose and Lancers and Vinho Verde’s Casal Garcia are still sourced from growers who do not make wine.
Sogrape is a negociant that has acquired leading Port brands and estates in Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Alentejo, Lisboa. Largest wine co in Portugal (bigger than next seven combined).
Coops (73) are declining in number as many growers become producers to add value to their crop.
Steady growth in domestic and exports.
Vinho Verde Basic
Northwest corner of Portugal. Atlantic on the west, River Minho (forming border with Spain) in the north, and mountains of Peneda-Geres National Park to the east. Extends just bast Douro in the south.
Covers 15,000 ha and split into 9 sub regions.
The PGI is called Minho and has identical boundaries. but production is much smaller than Vinho Verde.
Vinho Verde Climate and Viticulture
Moderate maritime climate due to Atlantic and network of river valleys that funnel Atlantic wind.
As land rises to the east soils become poorer and climate more continental. Here warmer drier sub regions like Baiao and Moncao e Melgaco lend to later ripening like Avesso and produce wines with more body and alcohol like Alvarinho
Rainfall at 1,500 throughout the year. Vintage variation marked with implications for ripening and yield (936,000 hL in 2017 and 727,000 in 2018).
Much on granitic bedrock with shallow topsoil of decomposed granite with sandy texture for good drainage. Fertility is low so fertilizers like manure commonly used.
Fungal diseases like rot and mildew are a problem. Traditionally trained up trees for air circulation. Most modern are now in rows with replacement cane (single or double) VSP or Lyre. All relatively high off ground for air. Summer pruning for productive varieties to enhance ripening and circulation.
Vinho Verde Grapes
In late 1960’s over 80% was red; in 2008 70% was white and by 2018 80% was white; 15% red, 5% rose.
Loureiro (aka Loureira in Rias Baixas) is most planted. Grown widely but mainly near coast. Mid ripening, med plus acid, and citrus, pear, floral, and herbal.
Pederna (local name for Arinto) is 2nd. mid ripening and relatively productive. Less aromatic with subtle citrus, and apple, and high acid.
Alvarinho is third (Albarino). Citrus, peach, tropical; med plus body, med plus to high acid. Traditionally almost all in north of region in Moncao e Melgaco. Now it’s high quality has led to plantings in other regions and allowed to be a named variety on labels since 2016.
Avesso is late ripening and can fail to ripen unless it is relatively warm and dry. Grown inland and in south, particularly Baiao where it is slightly warmer and drier. Lower acid than others, full body, citrus and stone fruit.
Trajadura (Treixadura) is low in acid; apple and peach and usually blended with higher acid grapes.
Vinhao (Sousao) most widely black; deep color, high acid, cherry
Vinho Verde Winemaking
Inexpensive high vol sources from across region and varieties. cool fermentation in stainless. Most bottled for release soon after the end of fermentation and CO2 added for a light spritz. Whites are low alcohol, med plus to high acid, apple, citrus, peach. some have small amount of RS. Good and made by coop or negociant.
Higher priced, often smaller vintners are still and growing number of single varietal / sub zone wines. A few use ambient yeast, mostly old oak for fermentation and / or maturation and may keep on lees for a few months for complexity and texture. Mid to prem and very good.
Name of sub region can appear on label. Min 9.5% abv and 8.5% for those without sub region on label.
Single varietal Alvarinho from Moncae e Melgaco must have lower yields than standard Vinho Verdo and 11.5% abv. Only this sub region can state Alvarinho on label as a single varietal. As of 2016 others can along with other grapes if Alvarinho is at least 30%. Other sub regions must declassify to Minho VR if they wish to label a single varietal as Alvarinho.
Vinho Verde Wine Business
Very fragmented with 17,250 growers cultivating 1,588 ha so on avg <1/10ha. Most sell to coops or negociants.
Only 400 growers who bottle own wine.
Producers: Anselmo Mendes and Quinta de Soalheiro
2018 40% export: DE, US, FR, Brazil; US value leader
Douro DOC Basics
Established as a DOC in 1982.
First ambitious wine made by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida who was working at Ferreira Port. In 1952 after a trip to Bordeaux he made his first vintage of Barca Velha cooling the tanks with ice brought up river. He experimented and finally settled on Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) for the majority with other grapes in the blend. Was not popular at first but now can cost 10x good vintage port.
Unfortifed Douro didn’t really take off till Portugal joined the EU in 1986 which brought financing to modernize winemaking. And then a few won a suit to allow export from th estates (quintas).
Douro Climate
The Serra do Marao on the western edge protect the region from the cooler damper Atlantic weather.
Overall warm continental. But diff based on proximity to the Atlantic. Baixo Corgo is coolest and wettest (900mm/yr), Cima Corgo warmer and drier (700mm), and Douro Superior hot and arid 450mm).
Douro river and tributaries provide a range of altitudes and aspects for a wide range of microclimates.
Douro Soil & Viticulture
Bedrock is schist with a shallow schistous topsoil. Low in organic matter and stony texture, holds very little water.
The bedrock splits into vertical layers and the vine roots can break through to search for water. Necessary since most sites are not set up for irrigation and climate is increasingly warm and drought prone.
In 2019 the IVDP relaxed rules for irrigation which used to be only for necessity. Now allowed when quality (not quantity) is jeopardized. Just need to let them know.
Douro Grapes
Usually blends.
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao.
Franca and Nacional retain acidity and give ripe black fruit flavors; popular lead grapes. Franca med body and alcohol; red and black, floral. Nacional high color level and tannin, black fruit, violet, rose, orange blossom.
Plantings of Sousao increasing with high acidity even in warm years.
Large range of other Portuguese varieties.
Viosinho (full body, floral, low acidity), Rabigato (high acid, citrus, floral), Gouveio (Godello in SP, med plus acid, citrus, stone fruit), Moscatel Galego Branco (Blanc a Petits Grains). Grown at the higher altitudes for cooler day and night temps to retain acid.
Mostly blend from a range of sites. Aim for ripe but not overripe. Cooler sites (altitude, north facing) can help this in hot years.
