Greece Flashcards
Climate
Vineyards are between 34 and 42N
Mediterranean with long hot summers (temps over 30C and sometimes up to 45C) and short mild winters. Inland the climate is more continental with even hotter summers and winters that go be below freezing. Spring frost is an issue in northern Greece.
Very mountainous and many vineyards are at higher altitudes moderating the heat. In some places grapes may not reach full ripeness (Amyndeon and Martinia). Few flatter areas (plains of Macedonia and central Greece).
Common on the islands where strong winds, esp on Cyclades islands like santorini are a threat. These can stop photosynthesis, interrupt flowering and fruit set and delay ripening or destroy unprotected vines. Very dry winds so increase water stress.
Rainfall varies. Average 400 - 700. Little to none during growing season except in the mountains of the northwest. Water stress is common and irrigation often essential.
Soil
Wide range of soils.
Apart from the fertile plains, soils are generally low in fertility. So yields are typically low and can produce characterful wines.
Vineyard Management
106,000 ha, but only 61,000 for wine
Average size of 0.5ha so many sell to larger producers or coops or sell small vol’s locally. Small sizes and tricky terrain mean many are worked by hand.
Mix of traditional and modern. Began modernizing in 60s and 70’s but took a leap forward when joined the EU in 1981. Many now have studied abroad and mix old and new.
Very suitable for organic and biodynamic. The use of chemicals is a recent occurrence. Growing number seeking certification and experimenting with Org and bio
Majority are trellised usually cordon with VSP
Irrigation permitted and usually used for inernational varieties as local have developed to be drought tolerant. Water holding capacity of soil is critical. Drip is irrigation used.
Grape Varieties
90% of plantings are indigenous grapes of which there are over 200 with 60 grown in sign amounts. Important POD for Greece.
International varieties began showing up in the 1980’s for locals and for fear that export mkts wouldn’t buy unknown Greek grapes. Varietal or blended with Greek grapes. Sauv Blanc and Assyrtiko and Merlot with Xinomavro are two popular.
Savatiano: 17% Roditis: 15% Agiorgitiko: 5% Xinomavro: 3% Assyrtiko: 3% Cab Sauv: 3% Merlot: 2% Syrah: 2% Moschofilero: 2%
White Grapes
70% of production
Savatiano: workhorse of central Greece. Drought resistant. Large vol’s of inexpensive wine and most common grape of Retsina. Reputation rising with some very good examples from low yielding dry farmed bush vines. Citrus, pear, stone fruit, nutty with age.
Roditis: Pink skinned, but no impact on wine unless macerated. High yielding, inexpensive wines, and in Retsina. Reputation improving thanks to older vines i.e. Pelopenesse. Best are med body with high acid and ripe fruit like melon.
Assyrtiko: Best known and prized white. Originally from Santorini now everywhere. Retains high acidity even in hot conditions. This high acid balances high alcohol and allows wine to age well. Ideal for sweet wines like Vinsanto. Citrus, stone, tropical, smoky, flinty. Some do a wine where some has been in oak.
Moschofilero: Aromatic wines with citrus, flowers (rose petals), and spice (similar to Muscat). High acid, light body, and relatively low alcohol (12%). Pink skinned and slight pink tinge to wines. Some make a rose with extended skin contact. Mainly in Martinia and Pelopenesse.
Malagousia: almost extinct 20 yrs ago. Produces high quality wines and plantings are growing. Med acid and body, complex and intense stone fruit and flowers. Can be herbaceous if grown in a cooler region. Some see some oak.
Black Grapes
Agiorgitiko: versatile producing wines that range from fruity early drinking to more complex full bodied age worth. Also rose and sweet wines. deep, med acid, med to high soft tannin, med alcohol. red ripe fruit (can be jammy), sweet spice. Often oak aged with some new. Mainly Peloponnese and best from Nemea.
Xinomavro: Most prized black, grown all over but best from Naoussa. Similar to Nebbiolo; in youth unpleasantly high acid and grippy tannin and vegetal. Pale and turn garnet quickly. Can benefit from long bottle aging; low yield and oak aged can last decades. With flowers, herbs, spices, leather, earth. Some are now producing more accessible with fruit and softer tannin. Riper fruit, less extraction, lower acid, new oak. Some also blend with Merlot to soften.
Winemaking
Production levels down from 3.5M hL in 1990 to 2.6m hL in 2017
Traditionally, foot trodden and fermented in old casks of oak or chestnut and left to sit for a few mo.
Now all use modern presses, temp controlled stainless for fermentation. From the 80’s sig use of new mostly French oak in both red and white. Now more restrained oak use.
Some return to traditional methods like natural yeast, shorter extraction, and even maturation in amphorae like the ancient Greeks. Experimentation with lees contact for Assyrtiko and Malagousia
Long tradition of sweet wine from sun dried grapes. Both red and white but Muscat most often.
Retsina
The use of pine to preserve wine dates back to the ancient Greeks. Originally to seal amphorae and then as an additive for flavor.
Sales boomed of Retsina in the 60’s but most was poorly made and resin was used to mask poor quality or faults. There have always been some high quality
Produced throughout but most comes form hot central plains. Savatiano and Roditis are most common grapes. The amount of Resin used has fallen as quality of wine risen. Now added to the must (used to be to the wine) and then left on lees for a week after fermentation (used to be much longer) leading to a subtle integrated pine character.
Now a legally protected category with regulations to ensure quality. The amount of resin is controlled as is min acidity and alcohol levels. It technically does not comply with the EU def of wine as it has pine added, but has a special status as wine of appellation by tradition; OKP in Greek. Premium bottlings (Assyrtiko) are raising the image.
Laws & Regulations
Greek equivalent of PDO is POP: Prostatevmeni Onomasia Proelefsis.
There are 33 POP’s in Greece for 20% of production. Typically restricted to native varieties (except Muscat for sweet wines).
PGE: Prostatevmeni Geografiki Endiksi is PGI. There are 120 with several added each year. Make 62% of wine. Less strict rules and allow international varieties
Wines without POP or PGE are labeled Wines from Greece. Mainly high volume brands, blended from grapes from more than one region. 18% of production.
OKP is for traditional products like Retsina
Key Regions and PDO’s
Macedonia: Naoussa; Amynteo
Peloponnese: Nemea; Mantinia
The Islands: Santorini;
Macedonia
Situated along the north border of GR
Large region with a wide variety conditions
In the mountains the climate is continental; but altitude makes temps relatively cool. Rain falls throughout the year (600 - 700mm) so water supply is less of an issue. Two PDO’s are her Naoussa and Amynteo
On the plains the climate is warm and Mediterranean. In the rainshadow of the mountains so drier. Fertile soils are ideal for high vol wines. Also some good and very good quality in the PGI’s of Drama and Kavala.
Traditionally a red wine region. Naoussa and Amynteo are 100% Xinomavro. The warmer, drier Drama valley to the east has a reputation for strong full bodied, Bordeaux blends. Some white. CHard and Sauv Blanc at altitude and full bodied from Assyrtiko and Malagousia in Drama and Kavala
Naoussa
South eastern slopes of Mount Vermio at 150 - 400m. Best are sheltered from the strong cold winds from the north and west. Temps are relatively cool.
Wines are 100% Xinomavro. High acid and tannin, complex aromas and potential to age for decades. Most are mid with a few prem. good to outstanding.
Producers: Thymiopoulos and Kir-Yianni
Traditionally aged in large wood for meat and spice. 1990’s move to French barriques but now moving to a more restrained style. Now more modern style with ripe fruit and cold soaking or whole bunch for a deeper colored but less tannic wine
Complex mix of soils and microclimates based on topography and aspect. Some making single vineyard or village wines to highlight these diff’s.
Outside of the PDO are Xinomavro and Merlot blends and rose’s
Amynteo
On the northwest side of Mount Vermio.
Vineyards are higher at 570 - 750m and the northerly aspect means they are exposed to cold northerly winds leading to cool summers and cold winters.
Site selection is crucial. The region is near a series of lakes without which the climate would be more extreme. Closer to the lakes, the humidity is higher increasing rot. and soil is more fertile so care needs to be taken to control yields or grapes can fail to ripen. Spring frost can be a problem.
PDO wines 100% Xinomavro, although rose is permitted. Because it’s cooler, Xinomavro typically lighter in body and lower in tannin and the best are floral.
Some areas with sandy soils are phylloxera free so there are old vines making more concentrated wines. Some producers making a riper more accessible style. mid priced; good to very with some outstanding.
Alpha Estate
Some blending with Merlot outside of the PDO
Peloponnese
Peninsula on the southern end of the Greek mainland.
Produces 30% of all wine. Largest number of PDO’s in Greece.
Very mountainous with poor rocky soils. Very southern but temps are moderated by altitudes.
Small area of flatter land, (incl plains around Patra) where it’s hotter and soils more fertile.
Easterly winds bring rain from the ocean, but due to the mountains rainfall levels fall further east across the peninsula.
Apart from Nemea, Peloponnnese is dominated by white grapes (Moschofilero and Roditis). Outside PDO’s large vol’s of inexpensive wines made (Roditis and Agiorgitiko). Some good to very good wines though from high altitude sites within PGI slopes of Agialla.
PGI wines also made from international varieties
Nemea
Close to the Corinth canal separating the peninsula from the rest of Greece
The PDO is only for red wines of 100% Agiorgitiko with both dry and sweet permitted (sweet rare). In the 90’s oak was being used but moving to more subtle now. New style emerging using semi-carbonic to enhance fruit and keep tannins relatively low. Acceptable to good inexpensive to very good and outstanding age worthy prem or super. Gaia Wines and Tselepos
Mediterranean climate. Sig variations in rainfall from 400 - 900mm mainly in autumn and winter. This variation can impact the diff areas. Vines on clay will cope in low rain years than more free draining. Autumn rains can sometimes dictate harvest.
Three zones based on altitude.
Valleys b/n 230 and 400m is hot (up to 40C) and fertile soil. Grapes ripen easily and are for inexpensive wines or high quality sweet.
Cooler middle zone (450 - 650). best for quality wine. Poor free draining soil limits vigor. cooler days slow sugar accum while flavors devel and tannins ripen. Range of microclimates (diff altitudes and aspects) and soil types.
Highest (650 - 1,000m) Agiorgitiko can struggle to ripen in the cooler temps and clay soil. Fresh red fruit, high acid, harsh tannin mean often used for rose production (outside the PDO). Exploring use for fresher styles of red wines with higher acid.
