Other Grape Spirits

Question 1

Legal Requirements- Other Grape Spirits

Answer 1

• EU ‘wine spirits’: distilled to below 86% abv

- 􀂃EU Brandies: distilled to below 94.8 abv. w hi-strength alcohol

Question 2

French Brandies- Other Grape Spirits

Answer 2

• Throughout France, made from surplus wine distilled into neutral alcohol and aged for min 12mths in wood.
• 􀂃FINE: higher quality AOC spirit e.g. Fine de la Marne, de Bordeaux, de Bourgogne. Light distillates from the regions’ grapes with short ageing (12mths). Use of lees to add character (e.g. Fine de Marne).

Question 3

German Brandies- Other Grape Spirits

Answer 3

• 􀂃From imported base wines mainly
• 􀂃Hi strength column still + short ageing before potential sweetening / flavouring
• 􀂃Addition of 2% sugar + 1% other ingredients allowed.

Question 4

Other Brandies- Other Grape Spirits

Answer 4

1. South Africa (since 1672): use of Pot + column + 3-year ageing. Column still distillate often blended w pot still distillate
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2. Mexico: major brandy producer + drinker (Domecq’s Presidente)
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3. US/AUS: both pot or column

Question 5

Pisco- Other Grape Spirits

Answer 5

• Pomace spirit but brandy. Grapes: Moscatel de Alexandria, Torrontel, PX
• 􀂃Distillation in pot stills
• 􀂃4 types: Seleccion (30% abv + unaged); Especial (35%abv + short); Reservado (40% abv+ longer); Gran Pisco (longest)
  􀂃Ageing in Rauli wood. Aromas of Jasmine + orange blossom
• 􀂃Specific Peruvian classification. Bolivia: named Singani and only from Moscatel de Alexandria

Question 6

Grappa- Pomace Distillates

Answer 6

Raw material: vinaccia i.e. grape pomace. Its quality (freshness) will determine quality of final spirit.
15kg of vinaccia => 1 bottle of grappa
Grape varieties: usually black grape variety for more interesting aromas
􀂃
Distillation: mainly discontinuous (pot still)
a. Pot stills or baskets to put pomace & heat it
b. Alcoholic vapours released into distillation column.
c. Separation of heads, hearts & tails.
Continuous distillation also used.
􀂃
Considerations:
- Single vs. blend: Moscato: great on its own but Chardonnay not
- Ageing: historically unaged. Now, a bit of ageing for a few.
- Whole grape from must vs. vinaccia.

Question 7

Other Pomace Distillates

Answer 7

􀂃France: Marc (discontinuous) from local grape varieties in most wine regions.
􀂃Portugal: Bagaleira
􀂃Spain: Orujo

Question 8

Grappa

Answer 8

Pomace brandy labelled as Grappa can only be made in Italy and it is protected by Italian law.

Question 9

Grappa- Distillation

Answer 9

Grappa must be distilled to less than 80% abv in either batch or continuous stills

Question 10

Grappa- Finishing

Answer 10

It is permitted to add aromatic plant material and 20 mg/L sugar. Caramel can be added if Grappa has been aged for longer than 12 months.

Question 11

Grappa- Labelling Terms

Answer 11

Vecchia or Invecchiata is aged for a minimum of 12 months.

Riserva or Stravecchia is aged for a minimum of 18 months.

Question 12

Grappa- Grape Varieties

Answer 12

No more than two grape varieties can appear on the label:

• One variety used: This variety must account for 85 per cent of the pomace used.
• Two varieties used: These varieties must account for 85 per cent of the pomace used.

Question 13

What is grappa made from?

Answer 13

Pomace, a by product of the wine industry rather than wine. Pomace brandies are made in every wine region in the world but, with the the possible exception of Marc from France, most are of local interest only.

Question 14

What are the two types of Grappa?

Answer 14

White and Black. They can also be made in lots of different styles (some aged in oak, some flavoured with different botanicals).

Question 15

Pomace

Answer 15

• In Italian it is known as Vinaccia
• Skins left over from winemaking
• Pomace can change the tone and aroma of a resulting grappa by which varietal is used (ie aromatic varieties like Muscat and Gewürztraminer)

Question 16

There are two different types of grappa. The difference lies in the….

Answer 16

Winemaking process

Question 17

White grape pomace

Answer 17

• Grapes are pressed and the juice is collected and separated from the skins before fermentation
• This means the pomace does not contain and alcohol when the distiller takes delivery of it.
• Pommace is not dry. It still includes some juice and grape solids that contain sugar
• The distilled then adds some water to dilute the pomace and undertake a fermentation in order to create alcohol that can be distilled

Question 18

Black Grape Pomace

Answer 18

• Skins are not seperated from the process until after fermentation
• when ferment is complete the juice is drained off and the skins are pressed to recover most of the wine. This means that when the black grape pomace is delivered to the distiller it can be distilled immediately
• Pomace needs to be looked after immediately (much like good grapes) so it does not spoil from microorganisms. Distillers work closely with local winemakers to make sure the best quality pomace is deserved to the distiller.

Question 19

Grappa- Distillation

Answer 19

Grappa is made using both batch and continuous distillation. The problem for distillers is that pomace has grape solids. If these were to be put through normal stills it would quickly burn causing uneven heating in the still. Traditionally the bagno maria still. To keep the heating even and to make sure the pomace doesn’t compress under the weight, either perforated baskets are used or it is constantly stirred. The new stills now use steam injection. This uses perforated trays to prevent compaction.

Question 20

Continuous Distillation- Grappa

Answer 20

• This still also uses steam injection.
• Bespoke devices move the pomace slowly into, through and out of the first still, keeping it there long enough for all the volatiles to be stripped by the steam
• The alcoholic vapours then pass into a rectifier in the normal way.
• The majority of grappa is made in this way to accomodate mass production

Question 21

Maturation and Finishing- Grappa

Answer 21

Most grappa is unaged. Some premium brands do age their grappa in oak. Oak is not the only wood used. ash and chestnut is also used. Some examples are flavoured with spices, but this is real specialty.

Question 22

What is the general term for pomace spirit in France?

Answer 22

Marc

Question 23

Grappa In Italy

Answer 23

Italy is the ideal place for grapes, thanks to its mild and favourable climate. Extending into the Mediterranean Sea like a magnificent garden, Italy’s terroir offers tastes and bouquets of extraordinary variety. And it is this land that gave rise to Grappa, the quintessential Italian distillate, unique in the world for character and provenance.

Grappa is the distillate of marc produced exclusively in Italy. The marc, i.e. the pips and skins of grapes, obtained from the vinification process, must come exclusively from grapes grown in Italy. Any other distillate of non-Italian marc cannot be called Grappa, even if produced inside the national borders.

EU Regulation 110/08 ratifies all this. Therefore, when one says Grappa, it is not necessary to add the word Italian: Grappa means an all-Italian made product, for culture and tradition.

Grappas are not all the same. In fact, to be more precise, one should speak of types of Grappa and not Grappa in general. According the the EC regulation, since 1989 there are six regions renowned, by tradition and culture, for the artisan production of Grappa: Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Trentino, Upper Adige – South Tyrol and Friuli Venezia Giulia as well as the Barolo area. The name Grappa has recently also been extended to the region of Sicily and the Marsala area, not without some controversy.

Therefore, in addition to the name Grappa, which covers the entire national territory, today there are 9 Typical Geographic Indications (IGT), corresponding to the above-mentioned regions and areas. Each IGT proposes Grappas with particular characteristics, in a range of fragrances and notes reflecting the uniqueness of the territory of provenance.

Question 24

Piedmont- Grappa

Answer 24

Piedmont enjoys an old distilling tradition, also thanks to the enormous wealth of its vineyards that offer quality marcs from red grapes such as Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera, but also white types such as White Muscat, Arneis, Erbaluce, etc. The Piedmontese call Grappa “branda”. In respect for the most genuine hand-made tradition, many distilleries do not use the continuous-cycle distillation process, but use boilers with flowing steam, operating at discontinuous cycle. Other manual systems use the double boiler and rare examples with direct fire. Testifying to the old Piedmontese distilling tradition, the 18th century saw the creation of the Distillers’ Guild, with specific rules and regulations for members.

The high value of the marc used in the stills guarantees quality and very characterised Grappas. Grappa of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barbera, also with long ageing in wooden barrels, are just some of the top products of Piedmontese distillation. But there is also the Grappa of White Muscat, one of the most gown vine species in the region, whose smoothness offers the palate an exquisite taste, also in combination with cheeses. The great experience of vine-growers and the quality of the marcs give the Grappas of this region entirely Piedmontese characteristics.

Question 25

Lombardy- Grappa

Answer 25

The art of distillation in Lombardy has it roots in a past full of tradition and names that have rightfully won fame in that activity. The Jesuit father Francesco Terzi Lana (Brescia, 1631 - 1681) applied his knowledge of physics to distillation, devoting a third volume of his best-known work Magisterium Naturae to it. According to some non confirmed thesis, he conducted his research in collaboration with another Jesuit father, the German Athanasius Kircher (Geisa, 1602 - Rome 1680), author of the surprising Mundus Subterraneus.

Lombardy has a great variety of vine species, flanked by typical regional grapes such as Bonarda, Croatina and Groppello Gentile. The Oltrepò Pavese holds the record in the production of Pinot Nero in Italy. The areas of Brescia, with Franciacorta, and Bergamo offer a very interesting variety of fresh marcs for distillation. There is also Valtellina, where Nebbiolo, the Piedmontese vine species par excellence, has found expression in remarkable wines such as Sfursat.

It must also be said that this region, more than others, has seen a reduction in the number of distilleries in the last 50 years. Alongside the well-known wine brands that make or bottle their own Grappa, many stills have remained typically artisan, working with flowing steam boilers.

However, it must also be pointed out that, like in other parts of Italy, continuous-cycle stills made their appearance in the 1960’s, causing the closure of many artisan-type plants.

Question 26

Trentino- Grappa

Answer 26

Quality and respect for the tradition make the Trentino a territory with excellent Grappas. Trentino distillates flow limpid from the stills, offering the taster all their particular aromas due not only to the vine species cultivated, but also to the careful and skilful hands of man. Grappa has belonged to the traditions of the people of Trentino and their culture for ages: the land as a source of sustenance for the population has always received the best of care. Today, over 90% of the vine species cultivated are of Certified Origin, thus guaranteeing top quality standards.

The most widespread vine species with red grapes are Schiava, Teroldego and Marzemino. Among the white grapes are Muscat, Müller Thurgau, Traminer, Riesling, Silvaner and Nosiola.

In the Trentino region, continuous-cycle stills for the industrial production of Grappa have met with very little favour. The respect for the traditional double-boiler still is a distinctive feature of Trent distillates. One name above all deserves a special mention: the still maker Tullio Zadra, who created many splendid double-boiler distillation tools.

Trentino Grappas stand out for their smoothness and fragrance, together with soft and delicate notes of fruit; offering expressions of great freshness, above all in the products without ageing in wooden barrels.

Question 27

Upper Adige/ South Tyrol- Grappa

Answer 27

The South Tyrol or Upper Adige is the name of this mainly mountainous region set amidst splendid peaks and valleys full of history. The Romans crossed it to conquer the ancient Germany, as did Frederick Barbarossa in order to enter Italy. The proud population of the Upper Adige managed to transform rough and often poor areas of arable plains into a garden, creating terraced crops. Benedictine and Agostinian monks and the Bishopric of Brixen (Bressanone) are just some of the very important historic factors that gave these lands their appearance, that can still be seen today.

The environmental conditions favour the cultivation of aromatic white grapes such as Gewürtztraminer and Goldmuskateller, but there are also other interesting vine species such as Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Riesling, Kerner and Veltliner. Red grapes reveal the typicalness of the territory in the splendid Lagrein, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Nero. Such a scenario offers South Tyrolese stills - which are traditionally the double-boiler type - top quality marcs.

Upper Adige Grappas enjoy the clean, crystal-clear waters that flow from the mountains, and the fragrance of the white grapes, with intense but measured notes of fruit.

Even if these Grappas are excellent when aged for a long time in wooden barrels, they offer their best for tasting when new.

Question 28

Veneto- Grappa

Answer 28

Venice, Bassano del Grappa and Monte Grappa are names that, for various reasons, have been linked to aqua-vitae for centuries.

Even if a relationship between the word Grappa and the mountain of the same name cannot be established with certainty, these lands have had an old and fundamental role in the production of our distillate.

And why is there this keen and centuries-old interest in Grappa?
One reason for the popularity of the wine distillate is due to the Padua doctor Michele Savonarola (1384-1462), who published the first treatise, “De Conficienda Aqua Vitae”, on the preparation of aqua-vitae. It is possible that soon after its publication, marc began to be distilled, if that practice was not already in use. But it is absolutely certain that in Venice, in 1601, distillers formed a guild; and when the number of aqua-vitae shops and distilleries became so numerous in Venice, at the beginning of the 18th century there was even the Calle and Ponte della Acquavitai (respectively distillers’ lane and distillers’ bridge).

Today, Veneto is the largest producer of wine in Italy, with the highest concentrations of production in the provinces of Verona and Treviso. Many types of vine species are grown: the white grapes include Prosecco, white Muscat, Sauvignon, Verduzzo, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Vespaiolo; the red grapes include Cabernet, Merlot, Tocai Rosso, Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella, Friulano and Raboso. With this enormous production, there is no shortage of fresh marc, making Veneto also the number one producer of Grappa in Italy.

Discontinuous-cycle stills are widely used, like the flowing steam boilers, but the 1960’s saw the introduction of continuous-cycle industrial systems.

However, there are also distilleries that use both methods, offering consumers a great variety of Grappas in terms of taste.

Question 29

Friuli Venezia Giulia- Grappa

Answer 29

Friuli Venezia Giulia is a land with a rich cultural and wine-making heritage. Its tradition of distilling is centuries old and firmly-established among the people of Friuli. Following the Venetian Republic’s dominion of Friuli, starting gradually in the 15th century, the aqua-vitae trade enjoyed new developments thanks to the Padua doctor Michele Savonarola (1384-1462), an innovator interested in distillation. The creation of the Distillers’ Guild in Venice in 1601 also had an influence in Friuli.

At the end of the 19th century, Emilio Comboni revolutionised the method of distilling with his steam still. Welcomed by many distilleries, this type of still was flanked in the post-War period by continuous-cycle industrial systems. Production thus became differentiated between those who distil in large quantities and those who distil using manual methods and in small quantities.
Friuli grows many white grapes such as Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla, Riesling, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and the rare Picolit. Red grapes include Franconia, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Pignolo, Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Nero.

The Grappa of Friuli Venezia Giulia is very variegated, proposing a style more tied to the dryness of the distillate, for palates wanting a strong taste, and also smoother and fruity, elegant Grappas with floral notes appreciated by many tasters.

Question 30

The Rest Of Italy- Grappa

Answer 30

The autonomous region of Val d’Aosta still enjoys the possibility of producing home-made Grappa, and has only a few distilleries that operate in the sector of quality rather than quantity.
Liguria sends a good part of its excellent marc to the neighbouring Piedmont and has about ten internal firms among direct producers and those that acquire Grappa for bottling.

In Emilia Romagna there are mainly big brandy and liquor labels. Only a few firms distil marc, and the most widely-used distillation system is that with continuous cycle.

In Tuscany, on the other hand, its great wine-making vitality is not matched by the distilling activities. It is not unusual for wineries to have their own marc distilled by outside distilleries, giving rise to various Grappas, sometimes coming out of the same still but with a different label.

Central and Southern Italy do not have the great tradition of the regions in Northern Italy, even if the number of Grappa drinkers is constantly growing. Special mention must be made of the Filu ‘e ferru of the Sardinian tradition, which owes its name to the method used to hide the bottles of bootleg Grappa: the bottles were hidden in the ground with a piece of wire (filu ‘e ferru) tied to the neck and leaving a bit of wire sticking above the ground so that the bottles could be found later.

Question 31

Distillates in the World

Answer 31

The art of alcohol distillation can be traced back at least to 3.500 b.C. Sources indicate that it was actively practiced by ancient Egyptians and in China. Through the years, it then spread to all Continents. Depending on the geographical location, distillers were naturally inclined to utilise the raw materials readily available in their territory. Presently, we can find a series of distillates all around the globe, the most important which are listed below.

An extremely well-known and appreciated distillate is Rhum, obtained from sugar-cane. It is produced throughout the tropical and Caribbean areas; in fact, it would be hard to think of a good glass of this distillate without accompanying it with a cigar or fine cocoa.

In Brazil, sugar-cane is also used to make Cachaça, a favourite distillate of the population.

Tequila is indissolubly linked with Mexico. Created with the arrival of the Spanish conquistadores, this distillate is obtained exclusively from the juice of the blue agave, a plant with long pulpy leaves and an unmistakable colour.

Closely related to Tequila, Mezcal is obtained from 8 different varieties of agave and undergoes a “smoking” process that makes it significantly different. In many bottles it is possible to find the famous gusano, a small larva that lives in agave plants and which is put in the bottle.

Deriving from the Anglo-Saxon tradition, in the United States one can find grain and corn distillates. Corn, for example, is used to make Tennessee Whiskey, Bourbon and Corn Whiskey. There is also Rye Whiskey, made with rye.

Also Canadian Whiskies are mainly produced with rye. On the other side of the world one can find Sake, a traditional Japanese beverage. It must be pointed out that saki is not a distillate, but a fermented rice beverage. However, in the last few decades excellent whiskies have been produced in the Land of the Rising Sun.

A real rice distillate is Choum, widely used in China and Vietnam, or Sura of Sri Lanka.

In the steppes of Central Asia, where little grows on the ground, they distil milk for beverages such as Aiven.

Question 32

Distillates in Europe

Answer 32

Everyone has heard of Cognac or, even more so, Whisky. Learning to recognise a distillate means knowing from what raw material it is obtained and, above, where it is produced. Europe has made distillation its pride and joy: in many Countries it is possible to find one or several national distillates, with famous names that evoke a past rich in legends.

One must always remember that the term aqua-vitae (or brandy) is synonymous with distillate. It will have a specific name, depending on the raw material used to make it and its production area.

If, in Italy, marc brandy is called Grappa, in France it is called Marc: famous exponents are Marc de Champagne or that of Alsace.

Famous Cognac is a distillate of wine, produced in France, 130 km north of Bordeaux between the areas of Charente and Charente Marittime. The vine species used to make the wine intended for distillation is mainly Ugnì Blanc, equivalent to the Italian Trebbiano.

Armagnac is perhaps France’s oldest distillate. It is produced in Gascony, the famous land of d’Artagnan and The Three Musketeers, 150 km south of Bordeaux. The vine species mainly used are Ugnì Blanc, Bacco, Folle Blanche and Colombard.

All the other wine distillates produced outside the regions of Cognac and Armagnac must by law be called Brandy, whether they are produced in France or in the rest of Europe.

France has another famous distillate: Calvados. Produced in Normandy, it is obtained from apples that are pressed and then fermented to obtain a cider. This cider is then distilled according to an old Normandy tradition.

In Scotland and Ireland one will find the most famous grain distillate: Whisky. Barley, peat, and pure water poor in minerals create an admirable combination of unmistakable notes.

Vodka is obtained from cereals such as rye and wheat, whereas tubers such as potatoes are partly used. Poland and Russia are the two countries claiming its paternity. In their languages the word Vodka means voda, i.e. water.

Gin, of Dutch origin but now linked to English distilleries, is a grain distillate, even if it is flavoured with juniper berries, cardamom, coriander, orange peel and many other ingredients, depending on the producer. Not only drunk neat, it is often used in cocktails, like Vodka.

Lastly, Austria and Germany boast a big tradition in distilling fruit: apples, raspberries, pears, plums, apricots, cherries, etc. Also Croatia and Slovenia distil plums to make Slivowitz.

Question 33

The Alembic still over the years……

Answer 33

The word alembic comes from the Greek ambix, meaning pot or cup. Over the centuries, the Arabic language adopted the word and turned it into al – imbiq, eventually giving it the meaning of a vessel for distilling.
The story of the alembic still began with an advanced and highly organised ancient civilisation: that of Mesopotamia. In Tepe Gawra, in the upper valley of the Tigris and 20 km east of Mosul (Iraq), fragments of a rudimentary alembic dating from about the 2nd century BC were found, while another one, also dating from about the 2nd century BC, was found in an area corresponding to the present-day Pakistan.

The first alembic made must have been very simple: a pot for distilling, also called a cucurbit, was placed over the fire, surmounted by a dome called a capital or helmet. Connected to this was a spout used to condense the vapours generated by the heat.

The Mesopotamian civilisation knew the art of distilling, but the first historically recorded alembic is mentioned in a manuscript in the St. Mark’s Library, Venice. This alembic takes the name of Egypt’s Cleopatra, who described it in the 2nd century BC, and is known by the name of Cleopatra’s Chrysopoeia. It was most probably used to make balsams and essences.

Question 34

The First Innovations- Grappa

Answer 34

In the Vatican Consilia codex of 1276, Taddeo Alderotti of Florence (1215-1302) described in detail the production of aqua-vitae obtained from wine with double distillation. Moreover, Alderotti was the first to describe the coil immersed in cold water to condense the vapours. In fact, the system for cooling with water made its appearance between the 13th and 14th centuries. Instead of ending directly in the distillate collection pot, the spout of the capital was made to pass inside a barrel full of cold water. Therefore it is not surprising that the important Siena scholar and philologist Andrea Mattioli (1570 – 1577) described this innovation in his work.

Vannoccio Biringuccio (1480-1539), an illustrious contemporary of Mattioli, described the first still that distilled and also rectified, by eliminating the parts full of impurities produced at the start and end of the distillation cycle. By conveying the vapours through long,winding, narrow ducts, this still blocked the impurities, allowing only the best part of the distillate to be retained.

In the 17th century, the Neapolitan Giambattista Della Porta, who was the first to understand the principle of the distillation column, made a very special still for the purpose of obtaining aqua-vitae from a single distillation. He called this long and narrow apparatus the Seven-headed Hydra. This insight almost passed unnoticed. However, two centuries later it permanently changed the history of distillation.

Question 35

Towards Modern Distillation…..

Answer 35

In 1733, the Dutchman Herman Boerhaave invented a still equipped with a cone that purified the alcoholic vapours, increasing the alcoholic strength, and thus created the very first stripping column. It was a rudimentary tool that also needed some modifications.
The history of still continued slowly over time until the 19th century, when the technological age exploded. Taking up the insight of Della Porta, in 1813 the Florentine Baglioni invented the stripping column, inserting inside it small plates with bells and down-tubes. In this way it was like having several stills stacked on top of each other, and the distillate produced was richer in alcohol, thus shortening the entire process.
In the mid-19th century, Enrico Comboni, a chemistry teacher at the oenology schools in Conegliano and Asti, laid the grounds for steam distillation. He arranged the still in such a way that the marc put inside the boiler was crossed by a flow of vapour, bringing with it fragrances and alcoholic substances.
At this point, technology provided everything indispensable for correct manual distillation, leaving the final touch to the sensitivity of the master distiller. Nevertheless, in the middle of the last century, Grappa began to be made with industrial continuous alcohol extractors, which soon took over the market.

These sophisticated technologies, operating with continuous cycle, have produced greater quantities of Grappa, ending with a product that is reliably predictable but somewhat lacking in character: because good Grappa is the result of patience, devotion, artisan skill and expertise handed down over the centuries.

Question 36

The Science of Distillation

Answer 36

When did man first start distilling?
Certainly before the birth of Christ, although definite details are not available.

Originally, the alembic did not distil marc, nor was it used to make distillates for drinking. This apparatus was used to make medicinal preparations of essences and scented balsams, and in Alchemy.

The first rudimentary alembics were used above all in the hope of changing one substance into another. But even if such attempts at turning dull grey metals into glittering gold failed, the distillation method enjoyed its own development, thanks to such efforts.
We know that a rudimentary alembic dating from about the 2nd century BC was discovered in Mesopotamia. Others have been found in Shaikhan Deri in present-day Pakistan, and dating from the 2nd century BC.
An ancient text makes reference to a certain Cleopatra – not the infamous queen - an Egyptian alchemist in the 2nd century BC. In his work Chrysopeioa, on the art of turning metals into gold, he describes an alembic called Chrysopoeia used for making fragrant essences and perfumes. The apparatus described by Cleopatra was already used centuries before by the Cyrenaic, Sinesius (413-370 BC). In his letters, Sinesius speaks of the preparation of distilled water, which he improved with subsequent redistilling.
These remain the first and only records, even if other alembics may have been created previously.

Question 37

The Middle Ages- Distillation

Answer 37

Arabian alchemists, including Rhases(860-940) and Avicenna (980-1037), described the preparation of the water of life and the distillation method used to enrich the product by conveying the alcoholic vapours through ash or quicklime; they also distilled mercury and perhaps alcohol, without knowing it. The word alcohol, from the Arabic al-kohol, originally meant fine thing, a very fine black powder used by the women as an eye lotion or eye make-up. The Arabian alchemist Abou Moussah Djfar-Al Sell, also known as Geber (702-765), described the apparatus used to distil plants, including rose water, essential oil of which was recommended as a cure for many ailments. Arabian science had the great merit of handing down the knowledge of distillation to European science in the Middle Ages.
Of great importance was the Salerno School which, as of the 10th century, gathered this knowledge and addressed it in an orderly way. Later on, alchemy spread increasingly and was even practised in the monasteries. In these places of culture, we find learned men such as Alberto Magno (1193-1280) who, in some of his writings, spoke of an aqua ardens obtained from wine and so light as to float on olive oil.
In the Vatican Consilia codex of 1276, Taddeo Alderotti of Florence (1215-1302) describes in detail the production of aqua-vitae obtained from wine with double distillation. Alderotti was also the first to speak of the coil immersed in cold water in order to condense the vapours. Nearly a century later, the preparation of aqua-vitae from wine became popular after the Padua doctor Michele Savonarola (1384-1462) published the first treatise on its preparation: “De Conficienda Aqua Vitae”.
Venice was very important in the sector of distillates. Distillation spread in Veneto between 1200 and 1300, when Venice was an important market-place for marc and wine aqua-vitae, which it exported to Germany and the Orient, as a cure for the plague and gout.

Question 38

The Modern Age of Distilling….

Answer 38

One legendary alchemist is considered to be the link between medieval alchemy and Renaissance medical chemistry: Theopharst Bombast von Hohenheim, also called Paracelso (1493-1541). He was the first to use the term alcohol, with the meaning of excellent refinement, as a synonym for wine spirit or aqua ardens.
At the end of the 16th century the Vicenza doctor and chemist Angelo Sala (1576 - 1637) devoted himself to the distillation of spirits. His studies on the formation of alcohol by fermenting musts stimulated the work of other scientists.
Some publications also mention that the German Jesuit, Athanasius Kircher, carried out studies on marc as a source for alcohol and wrote about this to his Brescian confraternity brother Francesco Terzi Lana (1631 – 1687). However, such claims were never demonstrated with tangible proof.
Another important stage in the history of Grappa is marked by the Catalan Jesuit, Miguel Agustin, prior of the temple of Saint Jean de Perpignan. In 1617 he described a still suitable for obtaining aqua-vitae from wine as well as marc.
A big discovery occurred in 1680 when, on carrying out observations with a rudimentary microscope, the scientist Leeuwenock recognised the existence of yeasts, which are single-cell organisms that convert sugar into alcohol.
In the second half of the 18th century, the French chemist Lavoisier accurately identified the substances produced by the fermentation of sugars, thus opening the doors to a wider field of research.

Question 39

Distilling in the 19th Century….

Answer 39

In mid-19th century Louis Pasteur defined the real nature of yeasts and their importance in the fermentation process, thereby increasing the knowledge regarding the preparation of alcohol. His research became all-important for oenology, marking a turning-point with respect to the old method of vinification.
In the early 20th century, when the alcohol fermentation process was fully understood, important Italian and foreign scholars rationally applied it to the production processes, improving the distillation systems.

This gave rise to the modern distilling industry and along with it, the commercial and fiscal need to accurately measure the alcoholic content of aqua-vitae.

In this context, Enrico Comboni (1850-1900), founder and first director of the Conegliano Oenology Institute Chemistry Laboratory, improved the method for steam distillation of marc in an exemplary way. This method was all-important - even if with various subsequent modifications – considering that over 90% of the Grappa produced is steam distilled.

Question 40

The Water of Life against Death…

Answer 40

During a plague outbreak in the 16th century, doctors started prescribing strong alcoholic beverages, which gave the sick a temporary feeling of well-being. The doses were enough to raise a dead person and were given to children as well as adults.

“The perfect water to heal the plague and worms. A man is given a quarter litre, a modest person half a quarter, and a child an eighth. Take half a jug of aqua-vitae and add to it the undermentioned things: gentian tormentilla ditcamnus carlina half an ounce; cooked and skimmed honey as required.” Recipe from the “Experiments” of Catherine de Medici.
“Fill a glass one third with fine treacle, one third with water of life and another third with the water of a healthy young virgin child and give the sick person a glass of it every morning, on an empty stomach, for three mornings. And, in the year 1504, it was tried in the glorious city of Venice by Mattio Calegaro, who lived in Santa Sofia, and also by his wife.”

During the terrible plague which struck Northern Italy in 1630, many recipes were tried.
“In case of suspected plague, take three rue tips, one walnut and a dried fig. Place it all in half a glass of water of life for thee hours, then drink it.”

“Take some excrement of a 10 to 12 year old boy, dry and make it into a powder, then use the powder in the following way. Place not more than two spoonfuls in a glass of water of life and mix… and this has been done by many experienced people.”

“take one white-skinned onion and use it to make a juice with apples, vinegar, rue and milfoil, in equal quantities, mix and give two thirds of it to the patient in a glass half full of water of life within six hours, keeping the patient well-covered in bed so that he can sweat.”

“… it is advisable to be on an empty stomach… without wearing woollen items, since they are contagious and, in the evening, before going to bed it is a good idea to bathe a little with spring water, and even better to drink a glass of good water of life…”.

Question 41

The roots of Grappa…..

Answer 41

When was Grappa first made?
The answer to this question is not easy. The production of wine distillate, for example, became known when the Padua doctor Michele Savonarola (1384 – 1462) published the first treatise on the subject: “De Conficienda Aqua Vitae”.
The distilling of marc probably began in the 14th or 15th century, or perhaps even earlier.
In many publications dedicated to the history of this distillate, reference is made to a document regarding a certain Enrico di ser Everardo of Cividale del Friuli. It appears that in his will he left “unum ferrum ad faccendaacquavitem” (an alembic still for making aqua-vitae), and that in the same document a grespìa[f1] is also mentioned. However, there was never any proof to support this anecdote, and the will was never made public.
Grappa was not an aqua-vitae intended for the well-off classes, who preferred wine or its distillate, leaving the common folk what remained, i.e. the skins, seeds and stalks of the fermented grapes.

This Grappa was certainly very different from the distillate we know today. It must have been drier, and sometimes even saturated with unpleasant and pungent substances: Grappa existed over the ages with such characteristics of a plain, strong and invigorating drink.

Grappa finally won a place in history during the First World War, and Monte Grappa bore witness to its importance. In fact, it became the liquid courage used by the Italian Alpine troops to face situations of danger and difficulties.
The Grappa of yesteryear was hand-made with double-boiler or direct flame stills with discontinuous cycle. Industrial distilling methods - which reached Italy only in the middle of the last century - were not yet used. Nor were Grappas from a selection of a single grape variety very diffused yet, except those of Muscat or Malvasia; there was mainly the classic White Grappa, distilled from mixed marcs.
In the period after the Second World War, Italy enjoyed a moment of unprecedented growth. Italians changed their lifestyle, favoured by better economic conditions.

Tastes changed radically, and with them also the approach to Grappa. People began tasting Grappa, gradually giving up the habit of drinking without caring about the taste or alcoholic strength.
Along with the changing tastes and habits, also Grappa became smoother and less aggressive, revealing all its quality, even through long ageing in wooden barrels.

Question 42

The Last 100 years of Grappa

Answer 42

Up until the end of the 19th century, Grappa had a peasant or even rustic identity. Considered to be exclusively a male drink, it continued through the first half of the 20th century retaining is nature as a strong and corroborant beverage.

The early 1960’s saw the appearance of the first industrial continuous stills in some distilleries. These are distillation systems able to work continuously, non-stop, thus obtaining a very high production of distillate at low cost. Artisan-type Grappa distilleries suffered a big blow from a commercial standpoint, given the highly competitive price of industrial Grappa: if there were nearly 2.000 artisan producers of Grappa at the beginning of the 20th century, today there are only about 90.

Industrial Grappa is a product that presents the palate rather neutral sensations, and is neither good nor bad: what it lacks is a marked personality that only very careful artisan-type distillation can give.

Starting in 1980, the world of Grappa saw a strong reaction to this situation by artisan distilleries. Overcoming considerable economical difficulties, these distilleries produced high quality Grappa, ensuring not only high level in distillation but also in the presentation of the bottle, so that the perception of its contents was clear at a glance.
In those same years, the public of tasters and enthusiasts widened, becoming more discerning and demanding an increasingly select product with smoother characteristics and a lower alcoholic content, so that all the fragrances of the Grappa can be freely released.
Today, Grappa reveals all its complexity and smoothness, thus gaining the favour of international consumers and rightfully becoming the Italian distillate par excellence.

Question 43

Grappa Today

Answer 43

Grappa is a part of the centuries-old Italian tradition and as such has accompanied numerous generations up until the present time. Today, Grappa is tasted for the pleasure of the sensations it has to offer: this is why Grappa must be good.

Today, Grappa is not so aggressive and rough as that which many still remember. It is a smoother and decidedly more elegant Grappa, tasted by connoisseurs and enthusiasts. Today’s Grappa is no longer drunk, but tasted.

Today there are various types of Grappas and not just Grappa. Each one is different for the marc used in its distillation, for the type of still used, but above all because the Distiller wants it that way. The diversities of the production areas accompany the taster in the discovery of different grape varieties but also the cultures and traditions that every Italian region offers in plentiful supply.
Italy enjoys a very variegated and well-established production sector, above all in the northern regions, and Veneto in particular, with an ample production of Grappas from marc of cabernet, merlot, pinot and prosecco, to mention just a few.
Grappa, a unique and indisputable Italian heritage, is exported to numerous countries: there is even the Swedish Grappa Academy. The reference foreign market remains, in any case, Germany, followed by the rest of Europe. But also the United States and Canada are showing an increasing interest in the national distillate.

Question 44

The Laws on Grappa

Answer 44

The regulations on the production and marketing of Grappa are as follows:

• EC regulation 110/2008 dated 15 January 2008 regarding the definition, designation, presentation, labelling and protection of the geographic indications of alcoholic beverages (abrogating the previous EC regulation no. 1576/89 dated 29/05/1989): it establishes all the parameters allowing the distillate of marc to be called Grappa;
• Presidential Decree no. 297 dated 16/07/1997: regulation with provisions regarding the product and sale of spirits, Grappa, Italian Brandy and Liqueurs;
• art. 16 of Ministerial Decree no. 153 dated 27/03/2001: this decree gives the provisions for manufacturers and holders of distillation apparatus;
• Ministry of Industry, Trade and Handicrafts circular no. 163 of 20 November 1998: it contains the provisions for application of Regulation (EEC) no. 1576/89, regarding alcoholic beverages, and Presidential Decree no. 297/97.

Regulation (EC) no. 110/2008, regarding the definition, designation, presentation, labelling and protection of the geographic indications of alcoholic beverages was approved on 15 January 2008. The new European Regulation establishes clear definitions for all alcoholic beverages and aims to help producers market their products, offering greater clarity for consumers. It came into force on 20 May 2008, defining clearly and once and for all the basic concept dearest to Italian distillers, namely, that Grappa is exclusively an Italian distillate.

The decrees approving the technical sheets for Grappa and italian Brandy were signed in August 2011.

Question 45

The Numbers of Grappa

Answer 45

In order to be marketed, Grappa must have an alcoholic content of not less than 37.5% in volume (40% for the Grappa with a Geographic Indications). The alcohol strength is obtained by means of dilution with water, in accordance with the provision of Presidential Decree no. 236/88.

The vine species most used in the production of Grappa are Muscat, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Pinot and Prosecco.

In Italy there are nearly 130 Grappa producers. There are no official data available, however it is possible to estimate that 63% of the distilleries are in the north-east, followed by the north-west with a much lower 23%. In central-southern Italy there are a little over 14% of the companies. The majority of Grappa distilleries are in Veneto with 45, with 38 in the Trentino and 24 in Piedmont. Yet it is surprising that Tuscany has only 4 and Sicily just 3.

With the 1-litre and 1,5-litre bottles almost entirely no longer used, the most used glass format is the 700 ml, even if the half-litre and 100 ml formats have been welcomed by Grappa drinkers.
However, some producers are “reviving” the old 2 and 3-litres bottles, even if almost exclusively for display purposes.

Grappa comes under the category of spirits and, as such, is taxed by the State through the excise on alcohol. In the case in question, the tax-rate refers to the anhydrous litre, i.e. the unit of volume net of water (the word anhydrous comes from the Greek and means without water). Example: a one-litre bottle of 40° proof Grappa contains 1x40:100 = 0.4 anhydrous litres of alcohol, whereas a full litre of product is called hydrated litre. The amount paid to the State for every anhydrous litre of alcohol produced in the Grappa category is equal to € 8.001.

Between 2000 and 2003, the Italian market saw a constant increase in Grappa consumption; however a slow decline has been recorded since 2004. In fact, the number of bottles decreased from nearly 36 million in 2003 to 32.5 million in 2007.

The production recorded some years of positive trend: from 100,000 hectolitres of anhydrous alcohol produced a year, in the three-year period 2000-2002, to 125,000 in 2004. In 2006 Grappa production recorded a –6.84% decrease, equivalent to 117,000 hectolitres of anhydrous alcohol.
In the last three-year period, production has stabilised and, from 2000 to 2007, the trend recorded an average annual increase of nearly 3%, even if with ups and downs, thus showing prospects of concrete stability for the future.

Lastly, exports of bottled Grappa have started to increase, with values higher than those of 2000, equal to 22,417 hectolitres of anhydrous alcohol in 2007.

Question 46

The Production of Grappa

Answer 46

Grappa is a unique distillate in the world, in being obtained from the distillation of a solid raw material: the vinaccia (marc), i.e. the skins of grapes remaining after the grapes are pressed to make wine.

Mainly two types of marc are sent to the distillery: fermented and non-fermented (virgin). The former has an alcoholic content because it has fermented with grape must, whereas the latter is nearly always white and, save for rare exceptions, not fermented with the grape must. Therefore it is up to the distiller to ferment it in the most suitable way before distilling it.

Why is this fermentation necessary?

Fermentation is very important because it is the process by which an organic substance (usually sugar) is converted into alcohol by single-cell micro-organisms: the yeasts. To create a distillate (Grappa, Cognac or Whisky, etc.) it is always necessary to start with a substance already containing alcohol, or a fermented substance.

But what is distillation?

Distillation is a physical process enabling the separation of the volatile parts of the fermented product, according to their different boiling points. In practice, it is necessary to heat the fermented product to allow the alcoholic vapours to evaporate together with the aromas. In this way, the quantity of alcohol contained in the fermented product becomes concentrated. If these vapours are condensed, a liquid of high alcoholic content is obtained.

To do this, three fundamental elements are necessary:

• the raw material to be distilled (marc in the case of Grappa);
• the master distiller.
• the still;

There are two basic categories of stills:

• discontinuous-cycle stills, used for artisan production of Grappa (flowing steam pots still, double-boiler ‘bain-marie’ stills, direct fire still).
• continuous-cycle stills, used in industrial production;

Only the stills used for the hand-made production of Grappa will be described here.

Question 47

The Raw Material: Marc- Grappa

Answer 47

Grapes are fruits of the vine, whose botanical name is vitis vinifera. This plant probably dates back a million years. And ever since man learned of the properties of its fruit, he has never stopped growing and safeguarding it in every possible way.

Every grape has a protective skin whose thickness variess from 2 to 10 thousandths of a millimetre. Huge amounts of aromatic and colouring substances are concentrated in this thin layer. If, for the vine-maker, the whole grape is all-important, the Grappa distiller’s attention is focused on the skin.

The skin’s aromatic substances constitute the primary aroma of the Grappa, because they are already present first and since the beginning in this part of the grape. This is why it will be easy to recognise a Muscat Grappa if we know the flavour of the grapes used to make it. Nature chose the skin of the grape to fix an enormous quantity of aromatic substances that produce unmistakable fragrances. Few other fruits and vegetable essences can compete with the aromatic complexity of grapes.

It is always necessary to make a distinction between the intensity of a fragrance, or a flavour, and its complexity. While, in a certain way, the intensity gives the strength of a fragrance thanks to its impact on the olfactory mucous membrane, the complexity is given by all the notes making up that given fragrance. Therefore, if we smell a bunch of a hundred red roses, the intensity will be very marked, but with low complexity. On the other hand, if we smell a bouquetof a hundred of 100 different flowers, the intensity will be marked but, above all, the complexity will be enormous.

Therefore, as Grappa is made with grape skins, this distillate holds a wealth of fragrances ranging from flowers to fruit, sweet spices, citrus fruits, candied fruit and even the fragrance of medicinal herbs. Few other distillates can boast such taste and smell characteristics, given the very high concentration of aromatic substances obtained on distilling marc.

KINDS OF MARK

Grappa is a distillate of marc. The quality of the marc is the first and most important factor for obtaining a good product and distillers are well aware of this, which is why they take great care in choosing the raw material. The freshness and good condition of the marc are all-important, since any deterioration in these qualities will inevitably have a bearing on the end-product.

Before proceeding with the distillation of the marc, it must contain alcohol. This is possible only when the marc has been fermented, i.e. when the sugar contained in it has been converted into alcohol. This condition depends on the type of vinification thaw was adopted. Marc coming from the production of white wines not left to soak in the must during the fermentation, is called “virgin”. It is rich in sugars but not alcohol and therefore must be fermented before being distilled. Marc coming from the production of rosé wines has undergone brief soaking in the must during fermentation and is therefore called ”semi-fermented” and already contains a small part of alcohol. On the other hand, marc coming from the production of red wines has fermented in the must and is called “fermented” and therefore already contains alcohol and is ready for distillation. Before distilling virgin and semi-fermented marc, it must be completely fermented, so that the sugars convert into alcohol, thus obtaining fermented marc.
If the fermented marc is not distilled in a short time, special measures must be taken for its preservation, since it could easily deteriorate, become spoiled or go mouldy. Preservation of the marc is all-important, since altered and faulty marc will certainly produce a faulty and poor quality Grappa.

Question 48

The Master Distiller- Grappa

Answer 48

“Grenouille was fascinated by this process. If anything in life had aroused his enthusiasm – though certainly not an enthusiasm shown on the outside, but hidden, like a cold flame – it was precisely this process of getting the fragrant essence out of things with fire, water, steam and an invented apparatus.”

Patrick Süskind – The fragrance

The Distiller is the director of the distillation process. He decides the style of the Grappa, knowing perfectly his work tool, i.e. the still, and marc.

Marc, Still and Distiller make up the triptych of taste for every Grappa, and the autograph that makes each Grappa different from the others.

The Distiller operates directly with all his skill in removing the head of the Grappa. The head is the very first part of the Grappa that comes out the still, full of pungent and aggressive substances: for this reason it is separated from the next part, called the Heart.

The Heart is the middle part of the distillate flowing from the still, rich in aromatic substances and fragrances. The Heart is the most valuable part for the taste of the Grappa and all of it must be preserved!

The final action by the Distiller is that of removing the tail. The tail is the last part of the distillate flowing from the still, full of oily substances which must absolutely be eliminated due to their unpleasantness.

All these operations are performed manually by the Distiller. If you have the chance to see a distiller at work, it will be like watching a conductor controlling the high and low notes of the musical instruments, and moving in jerks or slowly amidst the pipes and kettles, to coordinate the general harmony of every part of the symphony.

Question 49

Artisan Still- Grappa

Answer 49

The marc is distilled by means of a still. The still used in the artisan distillation is the discontinuous type: at the end of every boiling of the marc, the cycle must be interrupted and the pot emptied and then refilled with other new marc.

The discontinuous cycle still can be of three types depending on the way of warming up the marc: direct fire, bain marie and flowing steam.
As well as being a traditional choice for Grappa making, the use of the discontinuous still enables a higher quality product to be obtained compared to the continuous still used in the industrial production.

Question 50

The Direct Fire Still- Grappa

Answer 50

This traditional and almost disappeared still consists of a copper pot of medium or small capacity with a mouth for adding the marc and a capital at the top. This in turn is connected to a tube, called gooseneck, to make the vapours flow into a coil immersed in cold water and be condensed.

The copper pot used to contain the marc is placed in a masonry furnace at a suitable height so that the fire or naked flame can be lit under it.

This still is hard to manage because it is difficult to control the temperature of the fire and therefore it is easy to “toast” the marc with too much flame thus obtaining Grappa with unpleasant fragrances. Now virtually abandoned in distillation, this still is only used by a couple of distilleries to make very limited quantities of Grappa.

Question 51

The bain- marie or Double Boiler Still- Grappa

Answer 51

As the name implies, this still uses the very old bain-marie or double boiler method, taking its name from the invention attributed to the alchemist Maria Giudea, traditionally identified with Myriam, the sister of Moses.

In this case, the boiler has a double wall; in the interspace there is steam or very hot water which heats the marc placed inside the boiler. The ethyl alcohol and the substances contained in the marc evaporate, pass through distillation column and are then condensed into a coil. Cutting of the heads and tails also occurs here. This still is very widely used, especially in the Trentino and Upper Adige regions, and ensures a very gentle extraction of the marc aromas. It is commonly used to distil fruit and grapes.

Question 52

The Steam Still- Grappa

Answer 52

This still dates back to around the mid-19th century and is certainly the most widely used today for making Grappa in an artisan way.
It consists of a series of copper pots inside which the marc is put on perforated copper baskets, thus preventing it from being squashed due to the weight.
An adjustable flow of steam is gently blown at the bottom of each pot and passes through the marc, thus extracting the alcohol and aromatic substances.
These alcoholic vapours are made to pass through the distillation column, which enables the concentration of the alcohol and the aromas.
The alcoholic vapours flow into a coil immersed in cold water and are condensed. Also in this case cutting of the heads and tails is done by the distiller, according to the temperature and alcoholic content of the liquid coming out.

Question 53

The distillation and the cutting of head, heart and tails- Grappa

Answer 53

The distillation operation begins with filling the pots with fermented marc and then heating it. This initial stage allows the evaporation of the volatile substances such as alcohol and a part of the water. Ethyl alcohol, the main substance making up a distillate, boils at 78.4°C and not at 100°C like water. However, as the ethyl alcohol is in a solution with water, the boiling point varies according to its quantity with respect to the water. The more the water, the higher the boiling point.

In the marc to be distilled there are, however, other volatile components which evaporate during the heating and are transferred in the distilled liquid. Many of these substances are unpleasant and unwanted, and must be eliminated.

Fortunately, the various volatile substances in the marc evaporate at different temperatures. Therefore, by carefully controlling the distilling process the unwanted components can be eliminated while maintaining all the substances of quality. This separation, or elimination, of the unpleasant and unwanted substances is called rectification and is obtained by removing the heads and tails of the distillate.

The alcoholic vapours produced by heating and by the successive concentration, are subsequently cooled and brought to the liquid state, giving rise to the distilled product.

The distillate is divided in three parts according to its components and its quality: the head, the heart and the tail.

The head is the first part of the distilled liquid to be produced and mainly contains unpleasant substances that would give the Grappa an unpleasant sour taste, as well as methyl alcohol, which is toxic, and therefore to be eliminated. Fortunately, these substances have a lower evaporation point than the “noble” substances of the Grappa, and therefore are the first to be produced. The skill of the distiller consists of the ability to establish when the head of the distillate ends and when the so-called heart, i.e. the best part of the Grappa rich in ethyl alcohol and aromatic substances, starts to come out. The distiller’s skill is also judged by his ability to recognise the end of the heart and the start of the tail, i.e. the last part of the distillate which will be eliminated from the Grappa, since it contains unpleasant fatty and oily substances. Therefore, Grappa is obtained by selecting the heart, i.e. the middle part of the distillation, rich in ethyl alcohol and pleasant aromatic substances, and discarding the head and tail, i.e. the first and last parts of the distillation process.

Question 54

The reduction in alcohol content- Grappa

Answer 54

At the end of the distillation process, a distillate with very high alcoholic content is obtained (typically between 65 and 85% alc./vol.), and therefore not yet suitable for consumption and being enjoyed. The next stage consists of reducing the alcoholic content which, in Grappa, can vary between 37.5 and 60% alc./vol..

The alcoholic content is reduced by adding distilled or demineralised water to the distillate until obtaining the required strength. The alcoholic content is a choice made by the producer and also according to the type of Grappa; the strength must be balanced with all the other volatile components without “burning” too much and covering the aroma.

Question 55

The Filtration- Grappa

Answer 55

Due to some insoluble oily substances present in the distillate, the addition of water makes it opaque. In order to give the Grappa its characteristic crystalline and clear appearance, filtering is carried out, which eliminates such insoluble components. To facilitate this filtration, the Grappa is refrigerated, bringing it to a temperature usually of between -4°C and -15°C, then proceeding with the actual filtration.

After filtering, the Grappa is ready for bottling.

Question 56

Kinds of Grappa

Answer 56

Grappa is classified according to its age, the grape or grapes from which the marc was obtained and, possibly, the vegetable essences used to flavour it.

Grappa is therefore classified as:

Giovane (Young) – after production remains in stainless steel tanks till the bottling;

Aromatica (Aromatic) – made from aromatic or semi-aromatic grapes such as Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia, etc.;

Affinata (Refined) – bottled after ageing for less than 12 months in wooden barrels;

Invecchiata or Vecchia (Aged or Old) - bottled after ageing for 12 to 18 months in wooden barrels;

Stravecchia or Riserva (Very Old or Reserve) - bottled after ageing for more than 18 months in wooden barrels;

Single Variety – obtained from the marc of just one variety of grapes, which is usually given on the label;

Polivitigno (Poly-variety) – obtained with a cuvée of single grape varieties belonging to the same family but different for clone, provenance, ripening period, harvest times and vinification method;
Aromatizzata (Flavoured) - Grappa in which a natural substance of vegetable origin (i.e. Blueberry, Liquorice, Rue herb, ect.) was placed in infusion after the distillation, thus enriched with the herb/fruit own officinal properties

As can be seen from this summary classification, the word Grappa clearly holds various meanings. And if one considers the geographic provenance of a given type of marc – for example, Grappa of Müller Thurgau from the Trentino area, Grappa of Cabernet and Merlot from Veneto, etc. - there will be a much wider and more variegated panorama of Grappa. This is why it is more correct to say that there are Grappas, with all their particularities and variants, and not only Grappa in general. Every Grappa production area has a centuries-old wealth of tradition and culture in distillation that makes each type of Grappa different from the others, giving enthusiasts and connoisseurs the opportunity of exploring the very large variety that the Italian distillate par excellence has to offer.

Question 57

Flavouring- Grappa

Answer 57

Alcohol, as we know, is an excellent preservative. Fruit in alcohol goes through the cold winter seasons and many foods that we eat are kept “fresh” thanks to alcohol. Alcohol is also a solvent and has the ability to extract and dissolve the essence of the vegetal substances it comes into contact with.
In the past, alcohol was used in medical preparations of essences as well as for an elixir of long life, thanks to its presumed properties of fortifying the body and mind. The process of soaking medicinal plants and various fruits in the distillate has very old origins, both in the popular tradition and in pharmaceutical science. Today, flavouring Grappa is mainly a matter of taste and pleasure.
Flavoured Grappas are obtained by preparing an alcoholic tincture, i.e. a concentrated solution of alcohol in which the required essence was previously soaked, subsequently diluted in larger quantities of Grappa. Another method is leaving medicinal herbs - their leaves, barks, roots or a whole sprig - or a wide variety of fruits to soak directly in the distillate. This gives life to liquorice, rue or even blueberry flavoured Grappas.

But there are many other varieties available on the market, or even home-made. Normally the soaking process can last up to a couple of weeks, whereas the proportions respected are approximately 5 parts of Grappa to one part of plant or fruit to be used. The soaking is followed by a short filtration process to make the liquid pure and transparent. However, light shades can be created by the essence used in the Grappa and are to be considered as perfectly normal.

When a medicinal plant or fruit is left to soak in the Grappa, it releases its aromatic properties into the distillate, changing the taste and appearance of the latter. Thus, a Grappa with infusion of honey will take on shades similar to yellow and a sweet taste, whereas blueberry will colour the Grappa an intense blue-purple, at the same time offering a very distinct after-taste of the fruit. Italian law provides for the adjustment of Grappa with a small amount of sugar, which enhances and completes the flavouring process.
Compared to pure Grappas, tasting flavoured Grappas is an opportunity for an easily enjoyable, more casual tasting experience, also thanks to their often lower alcoholic content.

Question 58

Ageing in Wooden Barrels- Grappa

Answer 58

Young Grappas have a crystalline and absolutely transparent appearance. On the other hand, Grappas aged in wooden barrels take on hues ranging from light straw-colour to darker and amber shades, depending on the length of ageing and the quality of the wood used. The types of wood most frequently used to make barrels are oak, ash and chestnut. Less widely used is cherry-wood, acacia and almond wood.
Aged Grappas takes on different flavours depending on the characteristics of the wood the barrels are made from. When the distillate remains inside a barrel, significant chemical-physical interactions take place. In being porous, wood is not a hermetic wall separating the liquid from the external environment, and allows the distillate to transpire and therefore come into contact with oxygen, i.e. it oxidises. There will be different colours as well as different tastes, depending on how much the wood transpires. This oxidation is responsible for the increase in sourness in the distillate; an increase that will harmonise with other phenomena.

Once put in barrels, all distillates have a strong power of extracting substances contained in the wood, such as lignin, which is one of the most important. Over time, this and many other substances offer unmistakable fragrances and aromas, recalling vanilla, tobacco and sweet spices, as well as intense and mature fragrances of cocoa, liquorice and cinnamon.
When distillates are left to age in barrels, it is necessary to take into account that a part of them will inevitable evaporate into the surrounding atmosphere. The distillate passes through the pores in the wood, and becomes dispersed: each year 2-4% of the contents of every barrel evaporates, becoming what Cognac distillers call lapart des anges, or the angels’ part.
Grappas have a wide variety of fragrances and flavours as soon as they come out the still. When aged in wooden barrels, these fragrances and flavours become modified and enhanced. Therefore maximum attention must be paid during this stage, in order to create an harmony between the original freshness, given by the marc, and the maturity of fragrance that only wood can give.

Question 59

Barriques- Grappa

Answer 59

The term barrique indicates a small barrel or cask used for fermenting and ageing particular wines and for enhancing distillates such as Grappa. There are various types and sizes. The most used are the 225-litre Bordeaux barrique and the Burgundy barrique which holds 228 litres. They are made with seasoned and toasted oak staves. Naturally the types of oak vary according their provenance and porosity: the more solid and better quality types are suitable for long ageing.
The wood used to make the barrel is split into strips, or staves - and not cut, to avoid the soft parts of the fibre - which are left to season in the bad weather for a period varying from 2 to 5 years. The rain beating on the staves being seasoned helps wash out the unwanted tannins from the wood, while the sun’s rays have an effect on its organoleptic properties. The staves are then assembled and held by metal rings, giving the whole the typical oval and chopped-off shape. One cubic metre of quality oak can produce up to 5 or 6 barriques. With other types of less solid oak, even 9 or 10 barrels can be made, if the cooper is very careful not to waste anything.
During the barrique assembly stage the staves are toasted on the inside using a naked flame. The toasting causes chemical-physical changes in the wood, which have a marked effect on the organoleptic properties of the wine or distillate kept in the barrique. There are basically three types of wood toasting: light, medium, heavy.
Each type of toasting gives the distillate different qualities in terms of taste and fragrance: all these characteristics must be extremely clear to the persons supervising the ageing process. In fact, contrary to those who believe that the use of the barrel is similar to mere sleeping of the distillate, the use of the barrique- and the barrel in general - is an extremely complex procedure. It is necessary to know which distillate is more suitable for ageing, for how long and in what conditions of humidity and temperature. The variables in this process are many, and only great experience can give good results; and the complexity of the ageing process should never be underestimated.
The ageing capacity of a new barrique finishes after three passages of new wine inside it. This, however, is not the case for Grappa. In fact, since the distillate has a much higher alcoholic content than wine, it can count on its greater force in extracting noble substances from the wood of the barrel. In this case, the useful life-cycle of a barrique is nearly doubled, compared to its life-cycle if used to age wine.

Question 60

The Wood Types of Grappa

Answer 60

Not all wood is the same. Some types of wood have particular characteristics depending on their geographic provenance and their physical and molecular structure.

Listed below are some of the main types of wood used to make a barrel.

Allier oak: with a characteristic golden colour and warm rosy reflections, it grows in France in the region of the same name. It is dense and rich in vanilla components and tannins that can guarantee prolonged ageing.

Nevers oak: it grows further north of that of Allier (Loire valley, France) and can be considered an excellent alternative.

Troncais oak: like the above, it comes from the Loire valley. It belongs to the Allier region, with even more marked characteristics than the previous type.

Cher oak: this oak species has characteristics coming between the Allier and Limousin.

Limousin oak: it grows not far from the Cognac region and, like Poitou oak, it has coarse porosity that affects the astringency of the distillate.

Slavonian oak: less prized than its noble French relatives, it is used mainly used to make large barrels.

Chestnut: chestnut wood contains a high quantity of tannins and gives much colour to the distillate.

Cherry-wood: this wood can give interesting intense hues, even if it does not give the distillate very particular aromatic notes.

Acacia: it gives the distillate a wonderful golden colour with pale green reflections, and fascinating aromatic notes.

Juniper: not usable, at least new, for long ageing, due to the distinct and strong aromatic note that does not blend well with the overwhelming flavour of the Grappa. On the other hand, the result is delicious when used with moderation.

Almond: this wood gives the distillate a golden colour with intense amber reflections and interesting olfactory and gustatory notes.

Ash: even if used rarely in long ageing, it gives little colour to the distillate, but offers refined aromatic notes.

Apple: it gives colour but is not very interesting from an aromatic standpoint.

Mulberry: it gives the distillate a lovely golden colour with much appreciated soft aromatic notes.

Question 61

Grappa Drinkers

Answer 61

To give a picture of the Grappa drinker, the first aspect to consider is the increasingly aware and moderate way of tasting this distillate which is high in alcohol. While other beverages such as beer, cocktails or wine are more easily tasted thanks to their “lightness”, a spirit such as Grappa requires a particular moment for tasting. Grappa drinkers are increasingly attentive to the choice of distillate, and do not abuse it.

Today, 8 million adults, or 16.9% of persons between 18 and 79 years of age, in Italy consume Grappa. The most interesting fact is that the number of Grappa tasters has nearly doubled since 1990; and they are increasingly interested in the quality rather than quantity. In fact, the so-called ‘big consumers’ - those who have maintained a constant weekly consumption of Grappa - have not recorded any kind of increase. On the other hand, the ‘medium’ and ‘small consumers’, or those who taste Grappa on average three times a month, have increased. The latter bracket now includes consumers aged between 25 and 35 years, thus confirming the significant revival of the Grappa product.

An all-important factor in this respect has been the growing image of Grappa seen in the last 30 years. Up until the 1970’s, Grappa was considered to be a male prerogative par excellence and a product that had to be uncompromisingly rough and strong; today, however, there is an entirely different perception of the product. Since the 1980’s, Grappa has been presented in softer ways, with an alcoholic content approaching 40% alc./vol. instead of the 50 or 60% alc./vol. which made its tasting unpalatable for the occasional drinker.

Grappa has also won over female tasters, who in recent years have been approaching the world of quality wines and distillates.

Question 62

The Perception of Grappa

Answer 62

Recent statistical studies on the world of Grappa have shown that consumers manage to distinguish this distillate from the others at first smell. This confirms the very particular olfactory characteristic of our national distillate. In fact, its wealth of fragrances and flavours means it cannot be mistaken for any other aqua-vitae, even if, regarding this complexity, the vast majority of consumers have difficulty in defining or describing it in words.

On the other hand, there are Grappa tasting courses for all needs. Grappa is perceived as a distillate be consumed calmly, discovering all its various qualities, at home or after dinner in restaurants or in wine bars; the increasingly severe Highway Code regulations have contributed to favouring the drinking of Grappa at home. This also explains the changed trends in Grappa consumption: an aware approach to tasting of the distillate, which indicates discerning tasting, without any form of exaggeration.

Grappa has crossed the national borders, above all, addressing those markets where products made in Italy are highly appreciated, such as in the United States and Canada. But the reference foreign market remains that of Germany, with its great esteem for Italian products. The Asian markets, however, are showing growing interest in our distillate, with a preference for Grappa aged in wooden barrels.

The future of Grappa appears to be secure, although much more needs to be done to spread the knowledge of its long tradition and history. But one thing is for sure, when one says Grappa, one also says Italy.

Question 63

The Senses of Grappa

Answer 63

Tasting a beverage or food with awareness and analysing the sensory aspects and their qualities can be a difficult task for non-experts. All this requires a certain amount of attention and, above all, the ability to listen to one’s senses, which are the wonderful receptors of everything occurring around us. In order to recognise a Grappa by its fragrance it is necessary to develop an olfactory memory and create in our mind an archive of fragrances to be used as a means of comparison in our tasting. But it is also indispensable to develop a gustatory memory. After establishing the fixed rules for the tasting procedure, an adequate terminology, and ensuring the correct course of everything, it is possible to express an opinion on what we are tasting.

Every day we are bombarded with images that stimulate our eyesight, making this sense the main one, and forgetting that smell is the only sense that sends the information directly to the brain. Which is not the case with tact or hearing, or for our vision. We are conditioned through our sense of smell much more secretly than one may think. There is even olfactory marketing, which is concerned with enticing customers to purchase by means of olfactory stimulation. On entering a coffee shop in the morning, we are inebriated by the smell of coffee, but also in a cake-shop by the fragrance of vanilla, sometimes sprayed in the air to entice customers to purchase.

Many more such examples can be mentioned, but the main thing is to be masters in reading our sensations. Very often, our eyesight is considered to be our guiding sense. But we have another four senses which are just as efficient, provided we learn to listen to them.

In tasting, we make use of all our senses except, obviously, that of hearing. For distillates, it is advisable to analyse their transparency, clearness and colour. From an initial visual examination we can already know if the Grappa was correctly made, if there are any defects, and if the Grappa in question is new or aged. Our nose will reveal to us the intensity, elegance and complexity of the fragrances, and the breadth of the olfactory spectrum of a Grappa. Our senses of taste and touch will respond to the stimulation of the tongue and palate, crowning the sensations that previously anticipated the description of the distillate.

Question 64

Grappa Tasting

Answer 64

If the aim of tasting is not that of analysing the product’s sensory characteristics, but simply for the pleasure of drinking a good shot, even together with friends, a relaxed tone will certainly be the best condition for fully enjoying the distillate.

On the other hand the sensory analysis of a Grappa requires attention and concentration.

The tastings done by professional Grappa tasters occur in a suitable place, with light-coloured walls, quiet to aid concentration, and free of strong fragrances or odours. Therefore the tendency is to create a neutral base, so that everything contained in a glass of Grappa can express itself without interference.

Tasters are always advised not to use perfumes or smoke immediately before the tasting, and also not to swallow anything that can alter the taste: e.g. coffee or very strong and spicy foods. A logical order in the succession of Grappas must always be followed so that everything proceeds according to a natural increase in intensity and persistence (from new Grappas to aromatic ones and then Grappas aged in wooden barrels). Lastly, it is always a good rule to taste on a full stomach and be in good physical shape.

Grappa must not be served too cold, and never too hot. The ideal serving temperature for Young Grappas and Young Aromatic Grappas is between 9°C and 13°C. Whereas, with rare exceptions, Aged Grappas should be tasted at a temperature of 17°C. When in doubt, it is always better to serve them at a lower rather than higher temperature. A Grappa served a bit too cool can always be warmed in the palm of the hand in order to bring out all its bouquet. But the opposite is not possible.

Similar attention must be paid to the tasting glass. It consists of a tulip-shaped glass of average size (100-150 mm), not too narrow at the mouth, and strictly in crystal glass. Brandy balloons and similar are to be avoided. The upper bell-shape of the tasting glass allows a gradual release of the fragrances.

The first examination of the distillate is visual. It is a good rule to place the glass between your eye and a light source in order to have optimum conditions. First of all it is necessary to check if the liquid is perfectly transparent, without any suspended particles that alter the light rays passing through it. If the Grappa being tasted is perfectly transparent it can even be defined bright. Otherwise, if there are suspended particles the liquid will take on a whitish and milky hue, and, in the worst cases, will even be turbid. Any form of opacity making the Grappa no longer a crystalline liquid is to be considered a defect, unless it concerns a flavoured Grappa with an infusion of vegetable essences that can release particles: such as in the case of a stick of liquorice left in infusion inside the bottle.

By analysing the colour, on the other hand, it is possible to know if it is a young Grappa, which is always perfectly clear and colourless, or Grappa aged in wooden barrels, which has shades ranging from pale yellow to a splendid intense amber.

In the olfactory or bouquet test, make sure not to stick your nose inside the glass, to avoid its saturation with alcohol which would anaesthetise your sensory capacity. The Grappa must be kept away from the nose and sniffed briefly and with moderation, seeking to perceive its qualities without breathing in too deep. A young Grappa will have clear notes of fresh marc, or flora and fruity notes if aromatic. Grappa aged in wooden barrels will be rich in spicy notes of vanilla, cinnamon, liquorice, cocoa and even tobacco.

The taste test completes the encounter of the Grappa with our senses. The distillate should be tasted in small sips, using the tongue gently, but never in the entire oral cavity as though tasting a glass of wine, which would numb our gustatory papillae due to the effect of the alcohol. Its contact with our palate for long enough (just a few seconds) is the ideal measure for correct tasting.

Question 65

The Fragrance of Grappa

Answer 65

Grappa can have numerous fragrances, ranging from the most delicate and floral to the complex and rich. To learn to read inside a glass it is important to be able to recognise at least a few, so that tasting becomes a stimulating and conscious experience.

Floral fragrances
This group of fragrances is very large, because it can vary from white flowers to red flowers and even the intense expressions of tropical flowers. For example, there are the wonderful fragrances of an aromatic Grappa made with muscat marc, so rich and delicate in its fragrances of white flowers to recall the blossoming in spring. But in Grappas one can also find fragrances of lilac, lily of the valley and roses. These are all very recognisable fragrances that give the distillate a unique and marvellous goodness.

Fruity fragrances
If the group of floral fragrances is very large, the fruity fragrances may even be more present. Above all, in new and aromatic Grappas there will be splendid notes of apple, peach, strawberry and anything else that we can recognise. If we bear in mind that Grappa is the marc distillate most rich in fragrances, we will realise how many essences can be contained in a glass of Grappa. Therefore we will also find fragrances of dried fruit and apricots, and even discover notes of exotic fruits such as banana or pineapple, present in Grappas aged for a long time in wooden barrels.

Vegetable and herb fragrances
This group of fragrances is very particular and not always easy to recognise. The smell of freshly cut grass or aromatic herbs comes directly from the marc. They are easily found in a Grappa obtained from cabernet or merlot marc. Given the particular characteristics of the group of fragrances, they can be readily recognised once they are thoroughly remembered.

Spicy fragrances
Fragrances with very many shades are present above all in the more developed Grappas, i.e. in those aged in wooden barrels. Everyone knows the sweetness of vanilla or cinnamon, also called sweet spices. In fact, the oxidising transformation occurring in the barrels favours the development of these interesting notes, releasing the classic vanilla aroma.

Other fragrances
This is not an actual category. There are very different and extremely pleasant Grappa fragrances not covered by the common classifications. A Grappa aged for a long time in wooden barrels can have notes of tobacco leaf, but also cocoa and even liquorice. But at the same time there is the ethereal fragrance of the finest spirit, approaching the green shoots of geranium, and iodised and medicinal notes.

Question 66

Where does the word grappa come from?

Answer 66

The word Grappa derives from the medieval Latin “grappolus” which means a bunch of grapes.

Question 67

What is the difference between grappa and acquavite?

Answer 67

Grappa is the term that defines grape-pomace distillate while ‘Acquavite’ (or ‘Distillate’) is a generic term that alone does not indicate that much unless
the kind of raw material from which it was obtained is specified: i.e. Brandy, Cognac and Armagnac are an acquavite of wine, Vodka of potatoes, Whisky of grain, Rhum of sugar cane and so on.

Question 68

Which is the difference between grappa and grape brandy?

Answer 68

Grappa is obtained by distilling the grape-pomace (skins and seeds of the grapes), while Grape Brandy is obtained by distilling fermented grapes, therefore the solid and liquid part of the grape together. As a result, the Grape Brandy is placed halfway between a Grappa (obtained by distilling a solid raw material like grape pomace) and a Wine Brandy (obtained by distilling a liquid raw material like wine), being distilled from both the solid and the liquid part. A Grape Brandy is normally more elegant and fruitier than a Grappa, which vice versa is generally more intense and structured.

Question 69

What is the difference between aromatic grappa and flavoured grappa?

Answer 69

An “Aromatic Grappa” is obtained by aromatic grape varieties (like Muscat, Traminer, Fragola grapes etc.), rich of special aromatic elements called “terpenes”, which are be-queathed to the Grappa thanks to the distillation process. A Flavoured Grappa instead is a Young Grappa in which were put in infusion for a few months officinal substances such as rue, blueberry, liquorice, honey, etc., which give to the Grappa a particular aroma and colour, depending on the kind of infusion.

Question 70

What is the difference between a fruit brandy and a fruit flavoured grappa?

Answer 70

A fruit distillate is obtained by distilling the fermented pulp of a particular fruit (such as cherries, raspberries, pears, etc..). A fruit flavored Grappa instead is a grape pomace distillation in which, after the distillation, a fruit needs to be infused (for example Blueberry Grappa). A fruit brandy is always transparent while a fruit flavored Grappa always has the color of the fruit, which has been left to infuse.

Question 71

Why are there amber coloured grappas?

Answer 71

Because the Grappa was aged in wooden barrels. Thanks to the ageing process the Grappa obtains a golden colour, assumees a vanilla taste and becomes more harmonic and round. The wood that guarantees the best results is oak, however good aromatic scents are also released from chestnut and ash

Question 72

Are aged or barrique grappa the same thing?

Answer 72

In order to use the term “aged”, Grappa have to remain in wooden barrels in any types or size for at least one year, the term “barrique” instead, specifically refers to the elevation in barrique, that is oak barrels of 225 litres.

Question 73

How often are the barriques replaced in Grappa production?

Answer 73

Every year, approximately 20% of the barriques in the ageing places is replaced with new ones.

Question 74

What gives grappa such a pronounced organoleptic character?

Answer 74

Grappa has a character so pronounced because it accumulates aromatic substances thanks to the skins of the grapes, the favorite part of the fruit for the vine. The fact of imposing their presence in the still, unlike other countries allowing distillation of juice obtained by washing the grape pomace with water, accentuates the personality of the Spirit.

Question 75

Is Grappa a precious distillate?

Answer 75

It is certainly not for intrinsic qualities and, if the preciousness of a good is inversely proportional to the amount hesitated on the market, it is even more reason: for every thousand bottles of spirits consumed one or a little more is of Grappa.
Its quantity is also limited because you can get only the Italian marc. The production of our spirits flag will always be much lower than other large geographical name spirits in the European Union (against some less than 10%).