Nail Tech 2 Final Review Flashcards
Monomers and Polymers
A monomer is a molecule that can bond with other monomer molecules to form a polymer chain or three-dimensional network in a process called polymerization
Oligomer
Oligomers are short chains of monomers (meaning few, pre-polymers before reaction occurs). They are a key ingredient in **UV GELS, giving give it its basic properties (shininess, rigidity) after curing
It’s a short, pre-formed chain of individual monomers. In light-cured materials, **urethane acrylate oligomers offer superior toughness and scratch resistance. They are the base for ***all gel and play a crucial role in determining the gel’s working properties, including how they are removed.
- easy removal with acetone, or file off
- high gloss
- durable, long lasting
Polymerization
any process in which relatively small molecules, called monomers, cross-link to produce a very large chainlike or network molecule, called a polymer.
Polymerization applies to UV light cured gels or acrylic liquid powder systems, but the way it is initiated differs.
Polymerization for UV gels occurs when the photo initiators in the product react with UV-light to release heat in the form of an exothermic reaction.
The polymerization process for acrylic liquid powder systems is caused by a catalyst called BPO (Benzoyl peroxide). When the liquid and powder is mixed together, BPO is activated and starts the polymerization process. To set the product, it needs to evaporate by air drying so it takes longer than UV gel products to cure.
Curing
curing is defined as the process where a chemical reaction takes place to form harder and tougher molecular bonds in a chemical substance
Urethane acrylate
an oligomer, uv-light curing
Urethan methacrylate
an oligomer in resin, requires uv-curing
Poly ethyl urethane methacrylate
promotes adhesion for oligomers
Viscosity
thickness in consistency and ability to move (self-level)
Inhibition layer
uncured layer on surface due to exposure to oxygen, must be removed with alcohol-based nail cleanser
Photoinitiators
Light sensitive molecules that decompose into free radicals. PIs initiate a chemical reaction when exposed to UV light. When photo initiators absorb uv light energy, light energy is converted to heat energy. An exothermic reaction occurs, releasing heat energy in the process of polymerization.
The more photo initiators in a product, the shorter the curing time, and more heat energy will release during the exothermic reaction.
Too high of a concentration in PIs can translate to brittleness, service breakdown and discoloration. PI levels that are too low can result in weakness, loss of adhesion, and higher likelihood of an allergic reaction due to under cured product.
Nail tips come in what variations?
Main 3: full well, partial well, well less.
Nail tips can also be for flat nails, deep c curve nails, different colours, and shapes
What is the proper measurement for the well base on the nail plate?
the end of the well should stop at the tip of the client’s natural free edge, no more than ½ no less than 1/3 of the nail plate
What happens to the tip when a tip blender is used?
place a few drops of nail tip blender on the seam where the tip meets the nail. The solution melts the tip, blending it into the natural nail and reducing the amount of filing you need to do.
Especially good for clients with a sensitive nail bed as they benefit from less nail filing.
What system takes the longest to cure?
Acrylic liquid powder systems, need to air dry to polymerize, takes about 24 hours
What system is the fastest and how? What can happen due to the method of curing?
UV-light curing gels that can be used with a LED lamp cure the fastest, because LED is direct light.
Photoinitiators react to UV light to start the polymerization process
What are the causes of an exothermic reaction?
photo initiators cause a chemical reaction with UV-light, heat energy is releases and cures
Are there protein bonders on the market?
yes, non-acidic/noncorrosive, bond to keratin in the nail plate to adhere
What happens when a monomer liquid and powder are mixed together?
The catalyst BPO is activated and sets the product by evaporation
What overlay application method is the most vulnerable?
Acrylic is more vulnerable to damage from high impact directly after a service. It takes 24 hours to fully cure…
Not doing a proper mix ratio when working the recommended mix ratio; and working too wet; the cure time will lengthen, leaving the acrylic more vulnerable.
What happens when you manipulate a gel product too much?
When applying the gel, there is no need to manipulate it many times. This can cause air bubbles in the product creating a weakness in the surface and also cause an uneven surface. (a weak point or indent is made at the apex of the nail; more product is distributed on the proximal end and the free edge)
What are the signs of under curing?
Under-cured product has not hardened, tacky texture, may be caused by applying too thick off layers, incompatible uv lamp, lack of photo initiators.
If a client is wanting temporary nail extensions, what product could you use?
If the client wants easily removable enhancements, use a soak-off UV gel, or acrylic enhancements since they soak off as well. Do not give these clients hard gels, they need to be removed by filing and this is a hassle for someone who wants temporary nail extensions.
What ingredients are found in nail cleaners?
Isopropanol
What ingredient is found in the nail adhesive?
Cyanoacrylate, acrylic resin not water based polymerizes in the presence of moisture (moisture sensitive)
What grit number is used to take down product for a rebalance? Is it necessary to remove all artificial product when a client is at your station for a rebalance?
180 grit
no, just level out the product, and can apply more product if needed, the purpose of a rebalance is to touch up and promote the longevity of nail extensions, not to completely redo the artificial nails
Onycholysis?
If a client’s nail has onycholysis, what could be the cause?
nail disorder. It is the loosening or separation of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. It usually starts at the tip of the nail and progresses back.
All UV nail coatings release small amounts of heat when they cure. This is why some clients feel a slight warming. When over cured, the same UV gel coating may become very hot, resulting in a painful nail bed burning sensation.
For example, a layer of nail coating designed to be properly cured for two minutes under a fluorescent-style UV nail lamp can heat up quickly when cured under a LED-style UV nail lamp, heating the nail bed in excess of 120oF (48oC), which can result in painful burns that may lead to nail plate separation (onycholysis).
how do nail enhancements contribute to onycholysis
adhesion of the artificial nail to the nail plate is stronger than adhesion of the nail plate to the nail bed. so if the enchantment lifts it will also lift the nail plate from the nail bed
What are the various types of overlay products that can be applied over natural nails or tips?
hard gel, fiber glass, acrylic, silk
Describe wavelength
Visible light, different wavelengths of light emit different amount of radiation energy. Nail lamps use ultraviolet radiation. The Light Elegance lamp has Dual wavelength emittance utilizing 54 LED diodes for even curing.
Urethanes are known for high abrasion resistance and durability. They are found in UV gel enhancements.
True or False
True
The chemical family of urethanes is known for high abrasion resistance and durability.
Tack free gloss gels may discolor after prolonged exposure to UV light. True or False true
True, they do not contain uv stabilizers.
Tack free gloss gels are good for someone with sensitive skin or nails, prone to allergic reactions. Tack free glosses cure without leaving an inhibition layer, which is uncured product that would normally cause a reaction like contact dermatitis.
