Nail Tech 2 Flashcards
Photoinitiators
BPO
light sensitive molecules that decompose into free radicals to start the polymerization process. PIs absorb UV light and convert it into the energy needed to drive the polymerization process (UV curing).
The more PIs there are in a formula, the faster the cure.
Ways to avoid excessive heat with light cured products
- Do not over-file the nail plate.
- Control your workspace room temperature. The product molecules move faster and cross-link quicker.
- don’t apply the product too thick, it will take longer to cure and release more heat
- Using a complete system from the same company
- If using a one-step system that contains a bonding agent, builder and sealant in one jar, apply **thinner layers.
what can happen if primer is applied incorrectly
- Applying too much primer can weaken the strength of adhesion
- Over priming with an acid-based primer can lead to chemical overexposure and eventually damage (thinning) the nail plate.
- Forgetting to prime, or not priming correctly can lead to enhancements lifting or coming off.
why is primer important
Primer in the nail industry is designed to help the enhancement adhere to the nail plate.
what is an ACID FREE primer, when is it most beneficial
- An acid free primer acts like ‘double sided sticky tape’ for adhesion of gel and acrylics
- Can often be used either instead of acid primer or after acid primer.
- Remains sticky.
- good for clients with normal-to dry nails, not oily because moisture will impair adhesion making it less sticky
Ensure you apply sparingly, as too much product will decrease adhesive effects.
Acid free primer contains an ingredient that causes a temporary change in the pH of the natural nail (slightly acidic) to make it closer in pH to that of the product (highly alkaline). This pH change helps the product adhere. The nail eventually returns to its natural pH level after around 20 minutes, and the adhesive strength of the primer diminishes so if your L&P application takes longer than this, prime one hand at a time.
what was traditional primer made of , why was it changed
Traditional primer was made with **methacrylic acid, which gained a bad reputation due to corrosive properties, so acid based primer was updated, becoming much safer to use on clients with improved adhesion properties.
Paronychia
Paronychias are infection most often caused by common skin bacteria (most commonly staphylococci bacteria) entering the skin around the nail that has been damaged by trauma, such as nail biting, finger sucking, dishwashing, or ***chemical irritants.
Onycholysis
nail disorder. It is the loosening or separation of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. It usually starts at the tip of the nail and progresses back.
Onycholysis
how do nail enhancements contribute to this
nail disorder. It is the loosening or separation of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. It usually starts at the tip of the nail and progresses back ***due to disruption of the Onychodermal Band, The space between the distal plate and the bed.
**adhesion of the artificial nail to the nail plate is stronger than adhesion of the nail plate to the nail bed. so if the enchantment lifts it will also lift the nail plate from the nail bed
Pseudo-psoriatic nails
**pattern with ppl that wear acrylic nails.
Pseudomonas bacteria causing green spots under nail product
Two reasons: either these bacteria were on the nail plate when the product was applied (due to dirty implements or poor prep),
or product adhesion was insufficient.
When adhesion is insufficient, pseudomonas bacteria can find their way under the product through a chip, crack, air bubble, or lift. Advise your client to NOT fix the nail extension. They could trap bacteria and create a problem.
what is an acid based primer, when is it most beneficial
- Acid based primer makes tiny microscopic holes in the surface of the nail plate, so the product can ‘weave’ and stick into the nail.
- Works by removing excess oils from the nail plate.
- Dries to a chalky finish.
- Most suitable for clients with OILY nail plates.
caution: **If you continuously re-prime the same area with an acid based primer, this is when damage and thinning of the nail plate can occur.
what are uv gels
- An oligomer-based nail product that requires UV/LED energy to cure
- UV gels give the technician unlimited working time prior to curing in a UV/LED lamp.
- They are tough and durable, so suitable for virtually any type of service, including natural nail overlay, tip and overlay, or sculpting on a form.
- They are solvent resistant, so they must be filed off for removal.
what ingredients do UV and LED gels rely on
(main chemical family)
what is the sub category of chemicals contained in uv and led gels
- monomer and polymer chemical family
they rely on oligomers (short chains of monomers, also called pre polymers)
-polymers are long chains of monomers - acrylates and methacrylates
types of uv gels
uv bonding gels uv building gels uv self-leveling gels uv gloss gels pigmented gels gel polish
tip application steps
-consultation, sanitize, analyze
-file free edge to fit the well (short and round edges)
-tip selection, should take up to 10 mins
(baby finger sizes 9-10, mid fingers 6-8, 4-1 for thumb)
-customize well corner to corner
-adhere to nail plate with cyanoacrylate adhesive
-trim tips, file free edge, then blend by angling the file, don’t hit natural nail
-remove dust with soft brush and cleaner
-Tack bonding gel (acid primer)
-pink builder gel, (great for flat nails to level the nail apex to create c curve) make sure it is perfect before curing 30 seconds
-Shiny top coat , cure 30 seconds
liquid and powder gel systems, and fibre glass all have acylates
true
-cyanoacrylate in adhesive
chemical reaction that creates a polymer , is that a chain reaction or polymerization?
polymerization- curing hardens and solidifies
gel products- do different companies have different levels of photo initiators?
yes, stick with one company product line
maintaining artificial nails is not necessary true or false
false, can get them removed properly, get a fill with ridge filler and buff block to maintain them
primers can be liquid, brush on , or light curing formulas?
true
- Lexy Line TACK- bonding agent (curing acidic primer)
- vita prime
- air dry products available
what happens to the nail plate when an artificial product is on it
- moisture content of a natural nail plate 18-24% with nothing on it
- with product moisture increases, trapped in moisture
- nail plate will be softer and thinner until product is removed and nails dry up
oily clients need which kind of primer
acid based primer
true or false: nail bitters, or oily nail plates benefit from sculpting applications
true
-adhesive with nail tips is moisture sensitive and not as effective (solvent sensitive)
true or false: clients that are nail bitters will need their nail bed extended before sculpting
true
true or false: a tip blender can degrade the tip, causing an over exposure hazard or dry the skin
true
-tip blender is a solvent that will cause the tip to melt
- can file through the tip easily
- can risk overexposing the client to chemical solvents and dry the skin
what is a no light gel?
dip products, powders, acrylate with no photo initiators , air dry
fibre gels will give the nail surface a smoother structure without the use of a rasp
true
-natural, firm, not thick, flexible
determining the clients nail type is important because..
- certain products will be suitable for certain nail types (dry, oily, weak, strong etc)
liquid and powder will activate a *catalyst to make it set…
does it take longer to cure than light systems?
- The catalyst is called BPO- benzyl peroxide
- takes longer to cure by air drying
true or false: uv energy from the lamp creates the free radicals to polymerize product
true
what are oligomers, benefits of oligomers
It’s a short, pre-formed chain of individual monomers. In light-cured materials, urethane acrylate oligomers offer superior toughness and scratch resistance. They are the base for ***all gel and play a crucial role in determining the gel’s working properties, including how they are removed.
- easy removal with acetone, or file off
- high gloss
- durable, long lasting
polyether-urathanemethacrylate (gel products)
-promotes adhesion for oligomers
how to clean gel brush during service
- clear gel (keeps bristles of brush tight) or
- cleanser with gauze
if the shiny top coat turns out to look dull, it could be because…
- the cleaner is still on the surface
- not cured properly
- lint or dust not cleaned off
- didn’t apply thick enough
what are hard gels
This is another name that describes a traditional gel enhancement that is solvent resistant.
“Hard” may refer to the gel being non-porous and needing to be filed off for removal. Hard gels are sculpting gels and they can come in many different viscosities (meaning thicknesses).
Hard gels cannot be soaked off, they must be filed off to remove.
what are soft gels
These gels are an easy to remove alternative to traditional hard gels. Removable gels maintain many of the same characteristics of traditional hard gels, with the addition that they can be soaked off in Acetone to remove.
what is gel colour
a heavily-pigmented pure gel (without the presence of solvents) used for nail art or to cover the entire nail enhancement with colour. They can be used over either traditional acrylic or gel enhancements. Colour gels are traditionally packaged in a pot, rather than a polish bottle.
what are some volatile organic compounds
acetone, alcohol, LE cleaner
what happens if you store alc and peroxide next to each other
chemical compounds break down overtime
signs of overexposure are (overcuring)….
peeling, discolour (yellow), brittle
* must have uv stabilizing top coat to prevent this
types of file bits
sandpaper, diamond, carbide, ceramic, disposable
moisture content of nail plate with no product
15-20%
too much primer..
surface is too damp, products will lift, or no adhesion at all
how to determine shelf life of products
jar with lid, will say 12M = 12 months after opening for example
-tips last about a year, they will turn yellow and brittle
incorrect acrylic mix ratio
too dry can’t sculpt, too wet won’t dry won’t cure can easily break, liquid can’t touch skin and cause contact derm
vertical split on nail tip
- could be from old tips or over filing or improper tip cutting (not cutting straight causes stress on plastic)
- forcing a tip on that is too small causes tension
