Nail Tech 2 Flashcards
Photoinitiators
BPO
light sensitive molecules that decompose into free radicals to start the polymerization process. PIs absorb UV light and convert it into the energy needed to drive the polymerization process (UV curing).
The more PIs there are in a formula, the faster the cure.
Ways to avoid excessive heat with light cured products
- Do not over-file the nail plate.
- Control your workspace room temperature. The product molecules move faster and cross-link quicker.
- don’t apply the product too thick, it will take longer to cure and release more heat
- Using a complete system from the same company
- If using a one-step system that contains a bonding agent, builder and sealant in one jar, apply **thinner layers.
what can happen if primer is applied incorrectly
- Applying too much primer can weaken the strength of adhesion
- Over priming with an acid-based primer can lead to chemical overexposure and eventually damage (thinning) the nail plate.
- Forgetting to prime, or not priming correctly can lead to enhancements lifting or coming off.
why is primer important
Primer in the nail industry is designed to help the enhancement adhere to the nail plate.
what is an ACID FREE primer, when is it most beneficial
- An acid free primer acts like ‘double sided sticky tape’ for adhesion of gel and acrylics
- Can often be used either instead of acid primer or after acid primer.
- Remains sticky.
- good for clients with normal-to dry nails, not oily because moisture will impair adhesion making it less sticky
Ensure you apply sparingly, as too much product will decrease adhesive effects.
Acid free primer contains an ingredient that causes a temporary change in the pH of the natural nail (slightly acidic) to make it closer in pH to that of the product (highly alkaline). This pH change helps the product adhere. The nail eventually returns to its natural pH level after around 20 minutes, and the adhesive strength of the primer diminishes so if your L&P application takes longer than this, prime one hand at a time.
what was traditional primer made of , why was it changed
Traditional primer was made with **methacrylic acid, which gained a bad reputation due to corrosive properties, so acid based primer was updated, becoming much safer to use on clients with improved adhesion properties.
Paronychia
Paronychias are infection most often caused by common skin bacteria (most commonly staphylococci bacteria) entering the skin around the nail that has been damaged by trauma, such as nail biting, finger sucking, dishwashing, or ***chemical irritants.
Onycholysis
nail disorder. It is the loosening or separation of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. It usually starts at the tip of the nail and progresses back.
Onycholysis
how do nail enhancements contribute to this
nail disorder. It is the loosening or separation of a fingernail or toenail from its nail bed. It usually starts at the tip of the nail and progresses back ***due to disruption of the Onychodermal Band, The space between the distal plate and the bed.
**adhesion of the artificial nail to the nail plate is stronger than adhesion of the nail plate to the nail bed. so if the enchantment lifts it will also lift the nail plate from the nail bed
Pseudo-psoriatic nails
**pattern with ppl that wear acrylic nails.
Pseudomonas bacteria causing green spots under nail product
Two reasons: either these bacteria were on the nail plate when the product was applied (due to dirty implements or poor prep),
or product adhesion was insufficient.
When adhesion is insufficient, pseudomonas bacteria can find their way under the product through a chip, crack, air bubble, or lift. Advise your client to NOT fix the nail extension. They could trap bacteria and create a problem.
what is an acid based primer, when is it most beneficial
- Acid based primer makes tiny microscopic holes in the surface of the nail plate, so the product can ‘weave’ and stick into the nail.
- Works by removing excess oils from the nail plate.
- Dries to a chalky finish.
- Most suitable for clients with OILY nail plates.
caution: **If you continuously re-prime the same area with an acid based primer, this is when damage and thinning of the nail plate can occur.
what are uv gels
- An oligomer-based nail product that requires UV/LED energy to cure
- UV gels give the technician unlimited working time prior to curing in a UV/LED lamp.
- They are tough and durable, so suitable for virtually any type of service, including natural nail overlay, tip and overlay, or sculpting on a form.
- They are solvent resistant, so they must be filed off for removal.
what ingredients do UV and LED gels rely on
(main chemical family)
what is the sub category of chemicals contained in uv and led gels
- monomer and polymer chemical family
they rely on oligomers (short chains of monomers, also called pre polymers)
-polymers are long chains of monomers - acrylates and methacrylates
types of uv gels
uv bonding gels uv building gels uv self-leveling gels uv gloss gels pigmented gels gel polish
tip application steps
-consultation, sanitize, analyze
-file free edge to fit the well (short and round edges)
-tip selection, should take up to 10 mins
(baby finger sizes 9-10, mid fingers 6-8, 4-1 for thumb)
-customize well corner to corner
-adhere to nail plate with cyanoacrylate adhesive
-trim tips, file free edge, then blend by angling the file, don’t hit natural nail
-remove dust with soft brush and cleaner
-Tack bonding gel (acid primer)
-pink builder gel, (great for flat nails to level the nail apex to create c curve) make sure it is perfect before curing 30 seconds
-Shiny top coat , cure 30 seconds
liquid and powder gel systems, and fibre glass all have acylates
true
-cyanoacrylate in adhesive
chemical reaction that creates a polymer , is that a chain reaction or polymerization?
polymerization- curing hardens and solidifies
gel products- do different companies have different levels of photo initiators?
yes, stick with one company product line
