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Skincare > Moisturizers & Dry Skin > Flashcards

Moisturizers & Dry Skin Flashcards

1
Q

Hemidesmosomes are located

A

between basal layer keratinocytes and basal lamina

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2
Q

Langerhans cells are located

A

Spinosum layer

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3
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum basale

A

Stem cell niche
Desmosomes
K5 and K14 expressed

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4
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum spinosum

A

Profilaggrin
Desmosomes
Keratin intermediate filaments

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5
Q

Characteristics of keratinocytes in stratum granulosum

A

Filaggrin (active)
Crosslinked keratin fibers
Lamellar bodies secrete lipid precursors

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6
Q

lipids in stratum corneum

A

Cholesterol ester
omega-hydroxyceramide
Sphingosine

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7
Q

Lipids in stratum basale and spinosum

A
  • Cholesterol
  • fatty acids
  • triacylglycerides
  • phospholipid
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8
Q

lipids in stratum granulosum

A
  • cholesterol sulfate
  • Ceramide, glucosylceramide, acylglucosylceramide
  • Sphingomyelin
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9
Q

External factors causing dry skin

A
  • Low relative humidity
  • Wind currents–> evaporation
  • Solvents/detergents stripping lipids
  • Inflammation from UVR
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10
Q

Intrinsic factors causing dry skin

A
  • Impaired SC function
  • Reduced sebum production
  • Dietary deficiency of essential fatty acids
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11
Q

Examples of impaired SC function

A
  • Increased TEWL
  • Abnormal keratinization/desquamation
  • Reduced levels of NMF
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12
Q

Top 5 causes of dry skin

A
  • Lifestyle
  • Over-cleansing
  • Sun exposure
  • Extreme climactic conditions
  • Aging
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13
Q

Vehicle types for moisturizers

A
  • o/w emulsion
  • w/o emulsion
  • lamellar gel systems
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14
Q

Key ingredients of moisturizers

A
  • Emollients
  • Humectants
  • Occlusive agents
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15
Q

Mechanism of emollients

A
  • partial occlusion/lubrication
  • affect skin FEEL
  • “smoothing”
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16
Q

Mechanism of occlusive agents

A

forms a film on the surface of the skin to retard evaporation of water

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17
Q

Mechanism of humectants

A

binds water from the environment and retain water in equilibrium with the skin

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18
Q

Moisturizers that enhance skin barrier work by

A

mimicking the SC bilayer structure and assure long-lasting moisturization

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19
Q

Emollients provide _______, ________, and improve __________ while moisturizers provide _______ and improve ________

A

lubrication, skin smoothing, skin FEEL

water retention, barrier function

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20
Q

Categories of emollients

A
  • silicones
  • hydrocarbons
  • esters
  • ethers
  • triglycerides
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21
Q

Occlusive moisturizers

A
  • petrolatum
  • dimethicone
  • mineral oil
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22
Q

Humectant moisturizers

A
  • Sodium lactate
  • Glycols
  • Sorbitol
  • Sodium PCA
  • Sodium hyaluronate
  • polyglutamic acid
  • hydrolyzed starch
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23
Q

Emollient moisturizers (specific)

A
  • lanolin

- Capric caprylic triglyceride

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24
Q

Ester emollients

A
  • Alkyl Benzoate
  • Isopropyl Palmitate
  • Octyl Palmitate
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25
Q

Hydrocarbon emollients

A
  • Squalane

- Mineral oil

26
Q

Ether emollient

A

PPG (polypropylene glycol)

27
Q

High viscosity emollients

A
  • Castoryl maleate

- Diisosteryl dimerate

28
Q

Low viscosity emollients

A
  • Dicaprylyl ether
  • Cyclopentasiloxane
  • Isopropyl myristate
29
Q

emollients with medium spreading and fatting

A
  • caprylic triglycerides
  • squalane
  • isocetyl stearate
30
Q

emollients with low spreading and high fatting

A
  • isocetyl stearoyl stearate

- oleyl oleate

31
Q

Fixed oils are

A

liquid triglycerides

32
Q

Butters and fats are

A

semi-solid triglycerides

33
Q

Waxes are _________, primarily _______

A

solid lipids

fatty acid esters

34
Q

Primary components of oils and fats in nature are

A

Saponifiable triglycerides
Unsaponifiables
Acetone insolubles

35
Q

Unsaponifiable components of oils and fats include

A

Hydrocarbons
Tocopherols
Sterols

36
Q

Titer point number line for oils butters and fats

A

Oils

37
Q

Iodine value provides a measure of

A

Unsaturation (double bonds)

38
Q

PUFA have ____ iodine value

A

high

39
Q

Acid value provides a measure of

A

free fatty acids

40
Q

Saponification value provides a measure of

A

triglyceride esters

41
Q

Peroxide value provides a measure of

A

degree of oxidation of a particular oil sample

42
Q

When formulating with vegetable oils, each oil has a specific _________

A

required HLB value for the nonionic emulsifier

43
Q

Characteristics of lanolin

A

Self-emulsifying W/O base
“wool wax”
alcohol + sterol esters
absorbs/retains high levels of water

44
Q

CCT is a naturally derived emollient through

A

transesterification

45
Q

Squalane is a naturally derived emollient through

A

hydrogenation

46
Q

Jojoba wax is derived through

A

transesterification and hydrogenation

47
Q

Myristyl myristate is derived through

A

esterification

48
Q

Esters are formed by reactions between

A

fatty acid + fatty alcohol

49
Q

Linear esters ___________________, while branched esters ________________

A

Linear: enhance slip, feel heavy
Branched: dry initial feel, spread easily

50
Q

High-spreading esters with dry after feel

A
  • Diisopropyl Adipate
  • Hexyl Laurate
  • Isopropyl (Myristate/Palmitate/Isostearate)
51
Q

To reduce the tackiness of heavier ingredients such as petrolatum and castor oil, one could add

A

high spreading esters with dry after feel such as diisopropyl adipate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate

52
Q

High-spreading esters with velvety after feel

A

Branched

(Tridecyl/Isostearyl/Isodecyl) Neopantonoate

53
Q

Medium-spreading esters with medium after feel

A

Isocetyl stearate

Cetearyl Isononanoate

54
Q

Ingredient that can improve intermediate tackiness, may be used to replace mineral oil for a smoother after feel

A

medium-spreading esters like isocetyl stearate and cetearyl isononanoate

55
Q

Low-spreading esters with rich after-feel

A

Highly branched
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate

56
Q

Benefits of silicone fluids

A
  • Very resistant to high temp
  • Very resistant to oxidation
  • Easily spreadable (Breathable films)
  • Good detackifiers
57
Q

MW range of volatile silicone fluids

A

300-600

58
Q

Types of hydrophilic emollients

A
  • PEGs/PEG esters
  • Silicone copolyols
  • ethoxylated alcohols/natural oils
59
Q

Cutometer, Twistometer, and Ballistometer measure

A

skin elasticity resiliency

60
Q

Laser Doppler blood flow measures

A

Erythema and vasodilation

Skincare (5 decks)

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