Materials Of Decoration Flashcards
Any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding
Fabric
Refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for various purposes such as bedcover, pillow sheets, etc.
Cloth
Fabrics dating from __________ have been discovered in Egypt
5000 BC
Textiles from early __________ have been discovered in Scandinavia and Switzerland.
Bronze Age
Cotton has been spun and woven in India since __________ and silk has been woven in China since at least __________.
3000 BC and 1000 BC
Basic element of textile; hair like strand that forms the basis of the yarn
Fiber
Formed by twisting fibers together to create a continuous strand
Yarn
Are short fibers that are randomly arranged and loosely twisted; measured in centimeters or inches
Staple Fibers
Long and continuos fibers tightly twisted to produce smooth, strong yarns; measured in meters or yards
Filament fibers
A shower-head-like device that produce filament fibers
Spinneret
Staple fibers twisted together
Spun Yarns
Composed of continuous strands made from either a spinneret generated synthetic fiber or from silk; commonly referred to as BCF
Filament Yarns
What does BCF stand for?
Bulk Continuous Filament
Textiles are evaluated through:
- Durability
- Tenacity
- Elongation
- Absorbency
- Resiliency
The __________ of a textile refers to its flexibility and its resistance to friction.
Durability
The __________ refers to the textile’s tensile strength before ripping.
Tenacity
__________ refers to the textile’s elasticity without breaking.
Elongation
Related to how a textile is hydrophilic, hydrophobic, and hygroscopic.
Absorbency
It is the textile’s ability to return to its original shape
Resiliency
It is also known as fabric or cloth.
It’s a flexible artificial material made up of a network of natural or artificial fibers formed by weaving or knitting, or pressed into felt.
Textile
Is the only filament natural fiber
Silk
What are the 3 products of cotton?
- Egyptian Cotton
- Pima Cotton
- Upland Cotton
A kind of cotton that resembles satin when the processed version of the cotton fiber is made into cloth
Shiny Cotton
Is a kind of cotton that is processed raw - without any synthetic ingredients
Organic
Is a kind of cotton that has no synthetic additives when finished
Green
A process wherein the cotton is readied for spinning; refining process
Carded
It is the process wherein the cotton is combed to remove dirt resulting in a finer, smoother, and stronger yarn
Combed
A process wherein the cotton is made superior so it is less prone to lint and to shedding
Long Staple
A product of cotton described as the most luxurious; it has extra long staple cotton produced in Egypt and has an upper thread count of 1000 square inch at most
Egyptian Cotton
The second best high quality cotton; from the ** tribe in India; trade name so Supima
Pima Cotton
The third best quality cotton
Upland Cotton
First synthetic fiber; began commercial production in 1939
Rayon
Known as the ‘Poor man’s Cotton’; taken from the seed pod of the Java ** tree; too brittle to be spun into fiber but soft enough to use as cushioning; turns into powder over time and can cause asthma
Kapok
Is the oldest fiber ever woven into a fabric; its fiber length is about 300mm to 600mm; it reflects heat better than cotton and it holds its color longer than any other natural fiber
Flax
It’s yarn and fibers are made from flax; it is extremely strong, virtually non-elastic, and it wrinkles and creases easily
Linen
It is the fiber that resembles flax; it is harsh, brittle, and prone to lint limiting its use to carpet and linoleum backing
Has UV protection, sound and heat insulation, and low thermal conduction
Jute
Is made from jute; excellent resistance to microorganisms and insects; used in making sacks
Bulap
Taken from the stems of the Cannabis Sativa plant (marijuana stems); it is a coarse fiber originally used in ropes and sacks
Hemp
Derived from the Musa Textilis plant; used in the manufacture of matting and durable cordage (rope or cords); very strong with great luster and is very resistant to damage caused by salt water
Manila Hemp or Abaca
Fiber from the East Asian plant and often used as substitute for Flax; has a natural luster comparable to that of Silk and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds; three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax
Ramie
Dates from 1920s when it was discovered that latex (liquid rubber) could be extruded into fiber; it is highly elastic, flexible, and impermeable to water
Natural Rubber
Made from banana fibers
Jusi
Made from the leaves of the Pineapple plant and is commonly used in the Philippines; combined with silk and polyester to create fabric (Barong Tagalog)
Piña
Sheared from domesticated animals, primarily sheep; has almost no resistance to alkali (ingredients found in most detergents) so it must always be dry cleaned; it is resistant to retaining odors and is self extinguishing; preferred carpet material for luxurious facilities such as hotels and casinos
Wool (sheep)
Wool from the Shetland sheep; very fine and lustrous wool taken from the soft undercoat; it is warm and light weight and comes in limited quantities and natural colors
Shetland Wool
This wool has a superior shine, incredible softness, and great breathability; it has an excellent warm to weight ratio; it is strong, naturally elastic, soft against the skin, and accepts dyes very well; finer fibers than standard sheep wool
Merino
What are the four grades of wool.
- Virgin Wool
- Ordinary Wool
- Recycled Wool
- Worsted Wool
Taken from the lambs first shearing; softest and finest sheep’s wool
Or
Wool that hasn’t been previously processed (even if it’s taken from an old sheep)
Virgin Wool
Wool from reclaimed scraps from knits or other damaged fibers
Ordinary Wool
Shredded and reused wool
Recycled Wool
Wool manufactured in **, England; spun into compact smoothly twisted yarn before weaving or knitting; it resists wrinkles and creases
Worsted Wool
What are the four classifications of Natural Fibers
- Plant Fibers
- Animal Fibers
- Silk Fibers
- Mineral Fibers
The most widely used plant fiber; vegetable or cellulosic fiber that comes from the balls of the ** plant; it is known for comfort but is used more in the apparel industry than in commercial interiors
Cotton
Cotton’s staple fiber lengths vary from __________ to __________ or 1 1/4 “ to 2 1/2”
6mm to 60mm
Hair fiber that is more luxurious than pashmina; Persian word meaning ‘Pleasure of Kings’; from an endangered antelope called Chiru; illegal to buy and sell
Shatoosh
Another term for Shatoosh; a pure wrap
Ring scarf
A silk like fabric from the Angora Goat; resembles fine human hair; resilient with fewer scale than wool; for carpets and wall fabrics
Mohair
Comes from the hair of the ** rabbit
Angora
2 classifications of fibers
Natural and Synthetic
A kind of fiber that comes from animal, plant, or mineral resources; susceptible to the forces of nature
Natural Fiber
Man-made fiber that is thoroughly modern; most of them are thermoplastic
Synthetic Fiber
Soften and melt when heated
Thermoplastic
What are the three kinds of Cotton?
- Shiny
- Organic
- Green
Grades of Silk
- Organzine or Thrown Silk
- Tram, Spunsilk, or Bourette
- Tussah
- Duppion or Dupioni
- Thai Silk
Finest cultured silk yarn that is made from the strongest filament
Organzine or Thrown Silk
Silk that uses shorter or broken strands that have less luster and sheen
Tram, Spunsilk, or Bourette
Silk fabric woven from silk made by wild uncultivated silkworms; naturally tan in color and cannot be bleached; used for weaving tougher textiles
Tussah
Fiber formed by two silk worms that spun their cocoons together in an interlocking manner
Duppion or Dupioni
Considered one of the finest fabrics in the world; product of a unique manufacturing process, with the end product coming out with unique patterns and colors; yellow is its natural color
Thai Silk
A condition of silk were the fabric swells when damp and shrinks when dry
Hiking
It is synthetic plant based fiber; first synthetic fiber; called the ‘Poor Man’s Silk’ or the ‘Artificial Silk’; can be found as the woven backing of Velvet; it blends well with other fibers but has low resiliency so it wrinkles easily
Rayon
Acetate and Triacetate are both developed by the __________ Corporation.
Celanese
It is a compound of cellulose acetate (derivative of cellulose); it is a fabric with excellent draping qualities and it does not shrink; it also has a ‘luxurious hand’ but it gets easily damaged by heat and is easily wrinkled
Acetate
It is an almost pure cellulose acetate; it has good resiliency as fiber compared to acetate; it also has greater stability and abrasion resistance; permanent pleats can be set because it maintains a crisp finish
Tri-acetate
It is a non-cellulosic fiber developed by DuPont; it is the strongest of all fibers; it is highly elastic and resilient; most popular carpet fiber because it does not absorb most airborne dirt and oil and is washable but deteriorates when exposed to sunlight
Nylon
It requires elements of petroleum, natural gas (carbon), air (nitrogen and oxygen), and water (hydrogen)
Nylon
Developed by DuPont Co. under the trade name Orion; uses staple fibers which are crimped before cutting then mechanically bulked for an insulative, wool like effect; exceptionally light providing a bulk without weight; excellent color fastness
Acrylic
It is derived from elemets of coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone
Acrylic
Developed by Union Carbide; its fibers are easily dyed, is washable, and the first flame-resistant synthetic fiber; used for draperies and casement cloths
Modacrylic
Derived from elements of natural gas, coal, air, salt, and water
Modacrylic
What are the three processes of making Cotton?
- Carding
- Combed
- Long-staple
Most widely used Olefin fiber
Polypropylene
A chemical fiber with similar makeup to Nylon; it resembles silk but can be ironed at high heat like cotton
Polynude Nylon
Used for outdoor furniture upholstery and screening; it is unaffected by sunlight, easy-to-care, and is abrasion resistant
Saran
Animal fiber taken from camels, goats, mohairs, alpacas, llamas, vicuñas (rarest), and horses
Hair
Also a high temperature- resistant Aramid fiber and is incredibly strong; stronger than a comparably sized steel; used in bullet resistant vest
Kevlar
Used as upholstery for airplane seats
Polyethylene
Researched by DuPont; it has resistance to air and oil borne dirt, low moisture absorbency, wrinkle and crease resistance, and has dimensional stability; it is frequently blended with other fibers to enhance its performance
Polyester
Considered the most beautiful of all fibers due to its marvelous natural luster; it comes from the cocoons of **worms; strongest natural fiber and surpassed only by nylon in strength
Silk Fibers
It was only in the mid 1800s that it was first produced in fiber form; its most important characteristic is that it is inherently resistant to flame; it is strong and does not absorb moisture, and it has a low abrasion resistance
Glass Fiber
Taken from the Kashmiri Goat; it is warmer than wool; expensive and is said to be the ‘Fiber of Kings’; it was said that the Arc of the Covenant was lined and curtained with it
Cashmere
Owen-Coming’s trade name for glass fiber
Fiberglas
A manufactured elastomeric fiber (DuPont) that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and will still recover to its original strength; trade name is Lyrca
Spandex
Alkalis, acids, and solvents have virtually no effect on them; marketed under the trade names Nomex and Kevlar
Aramids
High temperature- resistant Aramid fiber used on apparel such as fire fighter’s clothing and space suits
Nomex
Developed by Hercules Inc. and is a by-product of petroleum; it has a resistance to stains and crushing; has a lack of static generating qualities; it is one of the lightest synthetic fibers and has excellent elastic recovery; strong and lightweight and does not absorb moisture or airborne dirt
Olefins (Polypropylene and Polyethylene)
Discovered by Tenjin Ltd.; silk like hand, resistant to bleach, but has less stretch than Spandex; used for fitted furnishings
Elastoester
A mineral fiber sigh fluffy strands which are generally combined with cotton to produce textile; it is the only natural mineral found in fiber form; it is completely fireproof but is no longer legal in most of its applications because it is known to cause cancer and other serious deceases
Asbestos
Threads of gold, silver or copper often woven into film casements or wall hangings; fibers do not tarnish; mainly for decorative purposes
Metal Fibers
Finest wool from the undercoat of the Himalayan Mountain Goat; light, soft, and exceptionally warm
Pashmina
A method of fabric formation; the matting together of fibers to form a web by moisture, pressure, and heat; results in a continuos dense cloth that has no brain or direction; it is firm, slightly fuzzy, and comparatively low in tensile strength (tends to break apart); does not require hemming
Felting
A method of fabric formation that are produced originally in sheet forms through molding or rolling; produced in varied forms that are thick, opaque, leather-like, suede-like softness, embossed
Films
A method of fabric formation where blunt rod or needles are used to form a single continuous yarn into a series of interlocking loops; much faster than weaving and is the second most common method of creating fabric
Knitting
Old English word for knitting
Cnytton
An English man who constructed the first knitting machine
Reverend William Lee
In knitting, the vertical rows of stitches are called __________.
Wales
In knitting, the horizontal rows of stitches are called __________.
Courses
Four kinds of knitting stitches:
- Plain Stitches
- Rib Stitches
- Tuck Stitches
- Purl Stitches
A knitting stitch that produce a smooth-face material; are used in making fine, thin, or sheer fabric
Plain Stitches
A knitting stitch that produce lines of Wales on both sides of the fabric causing the fabric to be very elastic
Rib Stitches
A knitting stitch that are formed by holding one loop on a needle while taking on one or more additional loops and then casting all of them onto another needle
Tuck Stitches
A knitting stitch that have successive courses of stitches drawn to the opposite sides of the fabric making it elastic lengthwise and crosswise
Purl Stitches
4 Kinds of Fabric Construction
- Circular Knit
- Ribbed Fabric
- Flat Outerwear
- Flat Underwear
A kind of knit fabric construction that is made on a circular machine and produced s tubular fabric without seams
Circular Knit
A kind of knit fabric construction that is made with two sets of needles to give a ribbed or corrugated surface to the fabric
Ribbed Fabric
A kind of knit fabric construction where the fabric is made by having the needles arranged in a straight line
Flat Outerwear
A kind of knit fabric construction where the fabric is made on a machine with only one set of needles
Flat Underwear
A type of knitted fabric that is knitted with a double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness that is the same on both sides; has excellent body and stability
Double Knit
A type of knitted fabric; a special type of eight-lock knight cloth that has a smooth surface on both sides
Interlock Knit
Is a plain stitch knitted fabric
Jersey
A type of knitted fabric; is a fabric produced by silver knitting - aw,tenor of knitting both yarn and fiber into a fabric to provide an exceptionally deep pile effect
Knit Pile
A type of knitted fabric; a fabric that is known for its high gauge, light weight, fine texture, and appeal in hand
Milanese Knit
Is a knit fabric that has one kind of yarn on the face while another type is found on the back of the goods
Plated
Is a knitted fabric that is versatile; can be made form every type of yarn of any type of fiber in any form
Rachel Knit
Is a fabric knitted on a single-knitted machine; less body, substance, and stability than double knit
Single Knit
Is a type of warp-knitted fabric that has a thin texture since it is made from fine yarn; taken from the French verb ‘tricoter’ which means to knit
Tricot
Is a popular knit fabric with properties that are similar to woven velour
Velour
The interweaving or intertwining of three or more strands of yarn or other material so that the strands Passover and under one another
Braiding
Fabrics made by braiding natural plant fibers
Straw
Intertwining and sometimes knotting of yarns that run in two or more directions; the method that is used in making nets, macrame, and laces; also known as tatting or knotting
Twisting
The interacting of warp and filling or weft yarns, usually at right angles; an ancient textile art
Weaving
Are the lengthwise yarns
Warp
Are the crosswise yarns
Weft
Made by the simple interweaving of warp and weft threads; when each warp yarn passes over and under a weft yarn
Plain Weave
A kind of plain weave where one weft thread passes over each warp thread
Plain Single Weave
A type of plain single weave where the weave is balanced in sequence- have the same count per square inch; also known as TABBY or TAFFETA weave; simplest and strongest because it has the maximum possible number of interlacements
Regular Weave
The warp and weft differ because of the different weight and textures of the yarn because novelty yarns vary in appearance; also called th UNBALANCED WEAVE
Irregular Weave
A kind of plain weave; when two or more weft threads are interlaced into the same number of warp threads; when this weave is regular, it is called a BACKED CLOTH
Plain Double or Basket Weave
A kind of plain weave were the weft yarn is heavier than the warp yarn with the result of a diagonal texture becoming more apparent
Rib Weave
Each warp yarn passes over and then under the weft yarns but the sequence is started slightly higher or lower on each successive yarn - offset by one three for the previous weft thread; has the appearance of a predominantly diagonal pattern; it resists soil, wrinkle less, and are more flexible than plain weaves of similar quantity
Twill Weave
A kind of twill weave where the long threads of floats pass over and under the same number of yarns
Regular Twill Weave
A kind of twill weave where the floats pass over and under a different number of threads
Irregular Twill Weave
It is a weave that emphasizes the continuos weft yarns with as few interruptions of warp yarns as possible; the warp yarns skip four to seven weft yarns; snagging is a problem because there are such long lengths of yarn on the surface of the textile
Satin Weave
Is a form of satin weave where there is a variation made of mercerized cotton; the filler yarns dominate the face of the textile; prone to snagging and sagging due to its loose construction
Sateen
The __________ are also known as the unwoven yarns
Float
Refers to fabrics that are woven in such a way as to create loops or piles that stand out from the surface of the fabric; it is woven with three extra fibers: the warp, the weft, and an extra set of either warp or weft fibers
Pile Weave
Created by weaving one of the two sets of warp yarns into a plain weave to create a solid back while lifting the second set of warp yarns by means of a hook to form a loop; the sharp blade on the end of the wire slices the loop
Velvet Pile
Created by weaving one of the two sets of warp yarns into a plain weave to create a solid back while lifting the second set of warp yarns by means of hook to form a loop; the lifted yarns remain uncut
Frise Pile Weave
When the Frise weave is combined with the Velvet pile, it forms a _________ like effect.
Corduroy
A decorative fabric made by weaving colored weft threads alternatively over and under the warp threads to form a pictorial of ornamental design; unlike embroidery, the weft does not pass from selvage to selvage but only as far as the color is required by the pattern; basically it is a plain weave that makes use of a lot of weft yarns
Tapestry
Ancient word for carpets
Tapis
Are this in which extra warp and weft yarn war added to the fabric during weaving; also known as INLAY PATTERN WEAVING
Extra Warp and Weft Pattern Weaves
A well known art in ancient Egypt, China, and Peru; some of the most beautiful fabrics ware made by this type of weaving
Inlay-pattern Weaving
Several classifications of inlay weaves are called __________.
Brocade
__________ account for many of the durable and beautiful fabrics used today (already known by ancient Peruvians); warp-faced pile weave and matelasse are the most common variety of this type
Double-cloth Weave
A kind of lace-like weave; a loose weave in which the warp threads are wound in half twists around each her and around a filler yarn, alternating in position on each row to form a knot to keep the yarn from slipping
Leno
A kind of lace-like weave; a loose weave in which the warp threads are wound in half twists around each her and around a filler yarn, but the warp threads maintain the same position in relation to the weft
Gauze
Are weaves in which uneven tension in either weft of warp yarns produce an uneven surface effect; most commonly used decor of this type is the brocatelle
Tension and Texture-related Weaves
One of the most commonly used decor of the tension and texture-related weave where floated and compactly woven yarns are combined to produce the raised effect
Brocatelle
Fabrics that are at a stage where they are not ready for consumer use because the are still rough and full of blemishes and impurities
Grey or Greige Goods
Is defined as a process done to fabrics, sometimes to fibers and yarns, causing them to change in appearance, texture, and performance
Finish
The kind of finish that lasts until the fabric is washed or dry-cleaned
Temporary Finish
A kind of fabric that lasts longer than temporary but may become unsatisfactory with the passing of time
Durable Finish
The kind of finish that lasts until the garment is of service
Permanent Finish
Include those finishes that affect the texture and appearance of the cloth; common finishes applied to the majority of the fabrics produced; concerned with aesthetics
General Finish
A finish that includes those of which that affect the performance of the cloth; also called FUNCTIONAL FINISH because they give the fabric special service feature which improves its properties and functions
Special Finish
A finish that gives the cloth a firm flattened and lustrous appearance; the fabric is hammered and the yarns are flattened by the impact of wooden mallets; it closes the weave and creates a heavy and compact appearance; it is done to cotton to make firm and lustrous like linen
Beetling
Vernacular: Pinukpok
A finish that makes the fabric white and it where the impurities are removed through the use of chemicals such as peroxide and chlorine; it increases the fabric’s ability to dye well
Bleaching
A finishing process which makes the fabric smooth and glossy; done by passing the fabric between heavily heated steel rollers at a pressure of up to 2,000 pounds per square inch
Calendering
A wool finishing process to prevent creases or other forms of uneven shrinkage in latter stages of finishing; where the cloth passes over roller of hot water or steam then the fabric is put into cold water after which it is pressured
Crabbing
A finishing process that improves the appearance, enhances the luster and hand of the material
Decating or Decatizing
A decating finishing process where the cloth is wound in a perforated drum between layers of blanket then steam passes through from the inside to the outside layers
Dry Decating Process
A decating finishing process where the cloth is wound on a roller and treated in a hot water or steam boiler which also has a vacuum system; help overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing
Wet Decating Process
An important finish applied to wool fabrics; a pre-shrinking process which involves the application of moisture, heat, friction, and pressure; it results in the felting of wool that gives the fabric a fuller, more compact body
Fulling
Discovered by John Mercer; a process where fabrics are grated with a strong caustic soda under tension to hydrate its strength, reduce shrinkage, and give it great absorbency for dyes; fabric swells slightly making it appear rounder, smoother, and mor lustrous
Mercerizing
Process applied to fabrics for the purpose of removing the fuzz of protruding fibers making the surface smooth; accomplished by passing the fabric over jets of flames or white hot metal plates and then immediately immersed in water to prevent the cloth from catching fire
Singeing or Gassing
Other terms for STARCHING; a process where the cloth is filled with starch to increase its strength, smoothness, stiffness, or weight of the fabric
Sizing or Dressing
A process that straightens and restores the cloth to its proper dimensions through stretching, passing through hot air, and heat-setting; it is usually the end finish
Tentering, Stentering, or Heat-Setting
A chemical treatment designed to make a fabric bacteria resistant; it imparts a self-sterilizing quality to the fabric by inhibiting the growth of a broad spectrum bacteria
Antiseptic Finish
The trade name for an antiseptic finish on fabrics and ready-to-wear clothing items in the market today
Sanitized of Sanitized Inc.
A chemical treatment applied to synthetic fabrics to prevent the accumulation of static electricity; it adds a water-attracting chemical to the fabric which will carry off the electrical charges
Anti-static Finish
A finish applied on fabrics that do not have the natural quality of elasticity that makes the fabric resistant to wrinkling or creasing; it treats the fabrics with synthetic resins that fill up the porous openings in the fibers thus making them smoother and crease resistant; it gives the fabric quick recovery from crease and synthetic wrinkles
Crease-resistant Finish
Chemically treated to retard frame so the fabrics will not catch flames or burn actively; it looses it finish after washing or dry-cleaning and it makes the fabric loose its softness and flexibility
Flame Retardant Finish
Among the most effective flame-proofing compound that makes a fabric fire resistant without imparting a harsh quality
Ammonium Sulphonate
Also called the INSULATED FINISH; a type of finish that makes a fabric suitable for either hot or cold weather; metallic particles are bonded to a drapery or garment lining fabric thus providing selective radiation
Heat-reflectant Finish
A chemical finish given mostly to fabrics that are susceptible to attack by mildew in moist and humid climates; it is a finish applied to fabric to prevent the growth of mildew and mold
Mildew-resistant Finish
Sometimes referred to as moth-proofing finish; a chemical finish especially for wool fabrics to make them resistant to moths and carpet beetles
Moth-resistant Finish
A mechanical finish of subjecting the surface of a fabric to a brushing process to raise the fiber ends thus creating a surface fuzziness; creates a soft fabric that provides warmth; FLANNELETTE is a typical example of this fabric
Napping
Relaxation shrinkage is eliminated by over feeding a fabric onto a dyeing frame and applying stretch in the crosswise direction of the fabric or applying controlled compression forces parallel to the surface of the fabric, pushing together warp yarns, thus releasing the weaving strains
Shrink-resistant Finish
A __________ label or mark applied to cotton or linen fabrics indicates a mechanical shrink-resistant finish that has met the standards of less than 1% shrinkage
Sanforized (Cluett, Peabody)
A finish given to loosely constructed fabrics or fabrics with low thread count; it prevents the warp yarns from slipping along the filling yarns; immerses the fabric in synthetic resins then stretched and dried under tension
Slip-resistant Finish
Chemical finish usually given to rug and upholstery fabrics to repel oil and stain through a compound called Silicon that makes the fabric water repellent when treated with it; Fluorocarbon compounds are now used to repel oil-borne stains
Soil and Stain-resistant Finish
A popular trade name of a type of stain repeller
Scotchguard of 3M
Also referred to as the dip-dry finish; causes fabrics to dry smoothly and need little or no ironing after washing
Wash and Wear Finish or Mini-care Finish
A chemical finish which makes a fabric resistant to wetting but not waterproof; it permits a fabric to breath, allowing passage of air, water vapor, and perspiration through it; more comfortable to wear than waterproof fabrics; water-borne stains are prevented from seeping through
Water-repellant Finish
Totally coats the fabric, closing the pores and enabling it to shed water under all pressures; Rubber, lacquer, linseed oil compounds or synthetic resin is applied on the fabric to achieve this finish
Waterproof Finish
Two kinds of colorants:
- Dyes
2. Pigments
Are soluble substances which penetrate into the fabric and are fixed by chemical reaction, heat, or other treatment
Dyes
Are insoluble color particles which are held on the surface of a fabric by a binding agent
Pigments
Any material made of interlacing fibers
Textile
Colored water-soluble organic compounds, mainly salts of sulphuric acid; to make them colorfast, addition of metallic salts, especially chrome to the dyestuff as an after-treatment, is done
Acid Dyes
Oldest among the artificial dyes and they differ from acid dyes because they are basic in character and have the power of neutralizing acids; colored salts of organic bases which are soluble in water; amino groups are present in their molecule
Basic dyes
Basic dyes are of little value in dyeing cotton, linen, and regenerated rayon unless a __________ is used
Mordant
Dyes that form a very important group of coloring materials since they will color both protein and cellulosic fibers
Direct or Salt Dyes
Direct dyes for cotton, linen, viscose, and cuprammonium rayon are known as __________ because they achieve very bright, full colors for those fabric.
Direct Cotton Dyes
Formerly called acetate dyes; originally developed for acetate fibers but are now used for coloring acetate, polyester, and as acrylic and nylon fibers
Disperse Dyes
When disperse dues are used on nylon and polyester, ___________ remains a problem due to exposure to nitrogen in the air
Disperse Dyes
Color is developed by additional treatment which makes the dyes color fast to washing; these dyes do not bleed, also called TUB-FAST colors, and are used for women’s apparel that must withstand frequent washing
Developed Dyes
Water soluble organic dyes that have affinity for cellulose in an alkaline bath; done in two ways: padding and thermosol process
Reactive Dyes
These dyes are made by reaction of sulphur with organic compounds; not soluble in water so they must be put into a solution with sodium sulfide and alkali; they are injurious to protein fibers and can only be used on vegetable materials
Sulphur Dyes
Fastest dyes for cotton, linen, and viscose and cuprammonium rayon; considered the most satisfactory of all dyes
Vat dyes
A basic method of dyeing fabrics where some of the man-made fibers may be dyed in a solution before filament is formed; results in excellent color fastness
Solution Dye
A basic method of dyeing fabric where the fibers are dyed before yarns are spun and woven into a fabric
Fiber Dye or Stock Dye
A basic method in dyeing fabric where the yarns are dyed before they are woven into checks, plaids, stripes, or herringbone designs
Yarn Dye
A basic method of dyeing fabric where the cloth is dyed after fabrication; also known as dip dyeing
Piece Dye
When the open fabric passes back and forth through a stationary dye bath
Jig Dyeing
When the fabric is continuously immersed in dye without strain to the fabric
Winch, Reel, or Beck dyeing
When the fabric is run through the dye bath and then between rollers which squeeze the dye deeper into the yarns of the fabric
Pad Dyeing
A basic method of dyeing fabric where the fabric of two or more fibers is placed in a dye bath containing two or more different dyes; each fiber will be dyed by the dye for which it has an affinity
Cross Dye
A basic method of dyeing fabric where the fabric from one fiber is dyed in one color
Solid
This technique mixes dyes for fabrics made from two or more fibers so that the fibers will dye the same color
Union Dye
These are made possible though yarn type and arrangement, and weaves, knits and variations; knitted or woven fabric using different colored yarns arranged in a pattern, produce beautiful and colorful effects; the use of complex, or novelty yarns such as stub, boucle, ratin, etc., create a variety of structural designed in woven fabric
Structural Designs
Done to add colors and designs to the fabric surface, making the fabric more appealing to the consumers
Printing
Oldest method of printing design on fabrics;
Involves carving design on a wooden, rubber, or metal block; color is applied in past form to the design on the face of the block; the block is then pressed down firmly by hand on the fabric until the color and design are transferred
Block Printing
Method of fabric printing, the design is cut on a cardboard, wood, or metal; color is then applied, penetrating only the cut proportions; usually limited to the application of only one color and often used for printing narrow fabrics
Stencil Printing
Acids are used in this type of printing; one of the fibers used in the fabric is burned, leaving a lacy or shear and heavy design; eyelets can also be made through this process
Burn-out Printing
Method of fabric printing where the color is discharged or removed from the fabric, creating a design; chemicals are used to remove colors; employed were light design is required against a dark background
Discharge or Extract Printing
This type of printing can be considered as the machined counterpart of hand-block printing; where designs are engraved on rollers and as the fabric passes between them, the design is imprinted on the fabric
Roller Printing
Method of fabric printing that creates a design which appears on the face and back of the fabric, simulating a woven pattern
Duplex Printing
Method of fabric printing where a resist paste is stamped on the fabric creating a design; the fabric is then immersed in a dye bath leaving the design unaffected
Resist Printing
A resinous substance used in Resist Printing that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye bath
Resin Paste
An example of Resist Printing; first used in Indonesia where the fabric is pile-spread with Paraffin or wax; upon dipping in the dye, the waxed areas remain in the original color while the rest of the fabric adopts the color of the dye
Batik Printing
This method of printing is almost the same as developing a photograph; the fabric to be printed is covered with chemical that are sensitive to light
Photo Printing
Method of fabric printing where chemicals are used to produce the puckered design; fabric passes between rollers which permit a caustic solution to contract certain areas of the fabric
Plisse Printing
Method of fabric printing where the warp yarns are printed, usually with the use of rollers before they are woven in to the fabric
Warp Printing
Method of fabric printing where the design is first drawn on silk, nylon, or metal screen; lacquer coating is applied to all parts of the screen where the design does not appear; the screen is put on top of the fabric to be printed and dyed, or printing paste is sprayed, painted, or rubbed back and forth with a squegee
Screen Printing
Method of fabric printing; process of transferring prints from pre-printed release papers to fabrics; the papers are printed with disperse dyes which when heated, transfers their colors to the fabric
Transfer Printing
Is the simplest method of designing fabric where the designs are put in the fabric by painting the color directly to the cloth with the use of a brush
Free Hand Painting
A method of designing fabric where one piece of the fabric is applied to another larger piece; the stitching work is worked around the edges of the motif
Appliqué
A method of designing fabric where there are raised designs found on the surface of the fabric; produced through special machines which press the designs in the fabric while it’s under the conditions of heat, moisture, and steam
Embossed Design
A method of designing fabric where tiny pieces of fiber, called flocks, are made to stick to the fabric by printing adhesive to the fabric first, then dusting it with flocks
Flocked Designs
A method of designing fabric where cut out designs are held to the fabric surface by the use of glue or an adhesive
Glued or Pasted Design
A method of designing fabric often referred to as having a ‘watered appearance’; achieved through the use of a special machine that produces this effect while the fabric is till under heat, pressure, and moisture
Moire Design
Processed animal skin, mostly that of cattle
Leather
A kind of hide described as skin of a fully grown cow; ranges from 4.6 sqm - 5.5 sqm or 50-60 sqft
Cattle Hide
The center portion of a cattle hide that yields the best quality hide
Bend
It is a kind of hide described as hide of a young animal and is considerably smaller; 2.3 sqm to 3.2 sqm or 25 - 35 sqft; characterized by its softness, suppleness, and fine grain
Calfskin
Is defined by the surface imperfections and how it is processed
Categories of Leather
A category of leather sometimes called FULL-TOP-GRAIN leater; possesses the genuine original grain of the hide; has not been altered in any way; has the least amount of surface imperfections but is very difficult to attain and will develop patina over time
Full-Grain Leather
A category of leather considered as the second highest quality; thinner and more pliable than full-grain; finish coat is added to the surface which results in a colder, plastic feel, with less breathability
Top-Grain Leather
A category of leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface; solid pigments are added to hide the corrections and imperfections
Corrected-Grain Leather
A category of leather created from the fibrous part of the hide that is left once the top grain has been separated
Split Leather
Another kind of leather that has undone a type of tanning process that uses animal brains, or other fatty materials to alter it; usually smoked to prevent rotting
Buckskin or Brained Leather
A type of leather that has been given a high gloss finish; it is usually black, and is coated with lacquer on the final finishing to give it its glossiness
Patent Leather
Another kind of leather also known as stingray skin/leather; used in furniture production since the Art Deco periods
Shagreen
A kind of leather from the skin of unborn calves; particularly soft and is highly valued
Slink
Also known as ‘reconstituted leather’; not a true leather; composed of 90 - 100% leather fibers bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to leather; for products not used frequently
Bonded Leather
Not a true leather; split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed; for shoe and furniture industry
Bycast Leather
2 Steps in Transforming a Hide Into a Leather
- Tanning
2. Finishing
Used to preserve the hide; puts life back into a leather by replacing the natural gelatinous material found in the skin with tanning solutions; it makes leather strong, supple, and enduring
Tanning
Three Primary Agents of Tanning
- Mineral
- Vegetable
- Combination
Is the tanning solution based on chromium salts
Mineral Tanning
Tree bark, typically oak, and water form the basis of this tanning solution
Vegetable Tanning
Combines both mineral and vegetable tanning; this tanning method produces a hide that is quit supple, with a limited acceptance of dyes
Combination Tanning
A process where finishes can color the leather and help protect it from hard wear; dyeing, embossing, and water or stain proofing may be part of this process
Finishing
Are comparable to stains for wood that do not contain opaque pigments; translucent; best quality upholstery leathers are dyed with this
Aniline Dyes
Contain some pigments; the use of this dye will help ensure uniformity in color among many hides; comparable to paint
Semi-aniline Dyes
Two Types of Denim Dyeing
- Indigo- blue
2. Sulfur - other colors like black, etc.
The word window is derived from the combined old Norse words, ______________, that is literally translated to ‘an eye of the house through which wind entered’
Vindagua (vindir and agua)
It admits in light and air/ ventilation, provides protection from outside elements, and frames or admits in the room, the visual beauty of the exterior
Window
Is a basic window type that has two sashes, one or both of which slide up and down
Double Hung Window
A basic window type with one or more sashes that are hinged on a vertical edge; opens from the side
Casement Windows
A basic window type that is most often a wide window set high off the floor; usually has sliding sashes and is common to most ranch type houses
Ranch or Strip Windows
A basic window type that has wide, horizontal sashes the open outward to any angle; can be left open when it’s raining
Awning Window
A basic window type identified by narrow, horizontal strips of glass that open by means of a crank to any desired angle
Jalousie Window
A basic window type designed to frame an outside view; consist of one large, fixed pane of glass that cannot be opened or it may also have movable sections one of both sides of a fixed pane- or above and below- which can be opened for ventilation
Picture Window
Usually a small window projecting from the house in an alcove-like extension of the room
Dormer Window
Often called the ‘cathedral’ window; its main characteristic is the angle at the top where the window follows the line of a slanting roof
Slanting Window
A basic window type of three or more windows set at an angle to each other in a recessed area
Bay Windows
A basic window type that is curved and sometime called a circular bay
Bow Window
A basic window type that is side by side; if there are more than one, they are often called multiple windows)
Double Windows
Sometimes called French Windows; come in pairs and often open onto a porch or patio
French Doors
Any window that come together at the corner of a room
Corner Windows
A basic window type that is considered as today’s functional version of French doors; often set into a regular wall, but are sometimes part of a modern “glass wall”
Sliding Glass Doors
A basic window type that is shallow and set near the ceiling
Clerestory Window
An arched top window with straight panes below the arch
Palladian Window
Usually a group of basic window units made to fit together, forming a veritable “wall” of windows
Glass Wall
The major reason for treating windows; the amount of ** needed depends on the window location, and is critical especially when in bedrooms and bathrooms
Privacy
A benefit or use of window treatment where the regional climate will also affect drapery or layering window treatments provides insulation in both hot and cold climates
Energy Conservation
A benefit or use of window treatment where the window direction plays a major role and multilayered treatments help filter out the light and the glare
Light Control
A benefit or use of window treatment where framing a window with curtains and drapes will add to the beautiful view that could be seen outside as well as reduce the harsh, straight lines of the window frames; can also help cover up views
View Enhancement
A benefit or use of window treatment where layering window treatments for insulation helps control house as well as temperature; fabric and wood absorb sounds, reducing noise both inside and outside
Acoustics and Noise Control
A benefit or use of window treatment where the window treatment is used to cover or conceal defects on walls, decorate the wall in a certain style, and relieve the monotony of unbroken wall space
Aesthetics
___________ and ___________ control are important elements to consider when choosing your window treatments
Light and Privacy
Are window treatments used to accent an open, airy feeling; very thin fabric and is nearest to glass; provide maximum amount of light to enter but least amount of privacy
Sheers
Are window treatments that diffuse light for a little privacy; thicker than glass curtain and may be used alone or with draperies; there’s privacy during the day, and none during the night when the interior lights are on
Semi-Sheers
Are window treatments that provide partial blockage of light when the curtains are closed; can only see shadows on the inside from the outside at night
Semi-Opaque
Are window treatments for persons who need privacy and maximum light blocking
Opaques
Is a type to window treatment that includes draperies, curtains, and shades that are purely made of fabric
Soft Window Treatments
A soft window treatment that uses a thick kind of fabric and is made with pleats; decorative and is also used for privacy and elimination of light
Draperies
Stationary draperies used oh either side of a window with other treatments between them
Overdrapes
A kind of drapery that has pleated panels that can be pulled across the window
Draw Draperies
Soft window treatments that are generally shirred or smocked or have headings attached to rods; usually a term for informal window treatments
Curtains
Short in length, each about the length of half the height of the window in which they are to be hung
Tiers
Used to allow seated patrons privacy beside the widow, while allowing passersby a glimpse of the tempting atmosphere within; only the lower portion of the window is covered
Cafe Curtains
Sometimes known as the brise-bise, French roughly translated to “wind screen”; curtain is gathered and hung with two rods (top and bottom)- cannot be drawn or traversed
Stretch or Sash Curtains
Similar to stretch curtains but is permanently tied with a tie back in the middle
Hourglass Curtain
These are curtains that are designed to be gathered at the side of the window and held by a decorative tieback, sleeve, or cord
Tie Back Curtains
Also called CASEMENT CURTAINS; the top, usually shirred, forms a pocket which the fabric is then threaded onto a pole or rod
Rod Pocket Curtains
Rod pocket curtains with extra length so that the sides can be gathered with tiebacks to create multiple poufs and they often puddle on the ground
Bishops Sleeve
Curtains that hang behind the main curtains
Under Curtains
Are soft window treatments that are generally drawn up from the bottom
Fabric Shades
Fabric-covered shades of horizontal panels, may have wooden slats inserted horizontally at intervals down its entire length; raised and lowered via pull cord, it gathers soft folds as it does so
Roman Shades
Curtains that have vertical shirring that transforms the tailored folds of the Roman shade into soft draping scallops
Austrian Shade
Curtains with cords placed vertically among the shade to hold the fabric in place; it has straight sides and a straight lower hem; the cord is pulled to raise it, deep inverted pleats cause the shade to billow out into puffs along the bottom edge
Balloon Shades
Are the finished bottom edges of the drapery
Hems
To stabilize the hems, ___________ is sewn to it
Bead Tape
Are hems at the top of the draperies
Headers
Are loops of separate fabric sewn onto unpleated, flat drapery
Tab Tops
Small strips of fabric attached to the head of the fabric and are used to tie over a curtain rod, holding the curtain in place
Tie Top Curtains
Also known as grommets; similar to tab tops but have metal grommets fixed onto the head of the curtain at regular intervals
Eyelets
Created by a row of gatherings on a pole or rod
Shirring
Uses double or triple rows of puckers created by a line of stitching through the fabric according to a set pattern; starts out looking like pencil pleats before certain points are stitched together to form X or diamond patterns
Smocking
Are folds of cloth sewn or taped into place to create fullness
Pleats
Flat symmetrical pleats formed by folding th fabric to the basic at each side of the pleat; these are deep, inverted, tailored pleats featuring two straight classical boxy look
Box Pleats
Are round, 2” to 2 1/2” pleats, filled in with cotton or paper to hold the shape; 2” or 3” apart
Cartridge Pleats
Also known as PINCH PLEATS; made by dividing one flat pleat into three smaller ones, but not creasing them
French Pleats
Curtain heading formed by a tape which, when drawn up, create a row of narrow, densely packed folds
Pencil Pleate
Made easily with patented devices that allow the creating of neat, even folds that snap on and off a traverse track without hooks; have a uniform exterior and interior appearance
Accordion Pleate
Formed the same way as French Pleats Headings, but instead of making the single tuck into a triple one, it secures only the base of it, forming a short cup
Goblet Pleats
In a Goblet Pleats Heading, the cup is stuffed with a rolled-up piece of inclining or ___________, a synthetic filling fiber, to par out the full shape
Dacron
Takes the form of goblet pleats linked along the base by hand sewn cord
Flemish Headings
Window treatment that includes blinds, shades, and screens that are made of wood, plastic, or strong fabric
Hard Window Treatments
Consists of horizontal panels that open and close at right angle, depending on the privacy needed
Horizontal Blinds
Usually made of lightweight metal, usually aluminum, which is coated with paint; has 2” wide slats held together by a 1” wide cotton braid “ladder” or nylon cord
Venetian Blinds
Same as that of Venetian Blinds only that it has 1” wide slats
Miniblinds
Horizontal blinds with 1/2” slats
Microminiblinds
Horizontal blinds that is same as that of Venetian Blinds only that the strips are made of wood or made to look like wood (PVC)
Wood Blinds
Made of vertically aligned vanes that have all the advantages of horizontal blinds as well as the side-draw operation of draperies; stacks neatly against the wall when not in use
Vertical Blinds
Vertical blinds made of fabric in approx. 4” widths; when closed, these strips fold one in back of the other creating a look of macramé panel on either side of the window
Vertical Woven Blinds
A roll of material attached to a spring-wound tube or roller mechanism that hangs on the window
Roller Blinds
Usually made of narrow horizontal strips connects with thread woven on both sides; made of bamboo, tortoise shells, or woven wood
Wood Shades
Made of accordion-pleated fabric or fibrous paper which is raised and lowered with cords like blinds; permanently pleated so when drawn up it folds neatly into clean pleats
Pleated Shades
Also known as HONEYCOMB SHADES; consists of two or more sheets of accordion-pleated reinforced fabric that are bonded together; multi-layered construction that creates a single, double, or even triple layers of honeycombed air spaces; creates an insulation effect
Cellular Shades
Wooden hinged or solid panels that may be folded across a window to diffuse light and to add privacy; with 1 1/4 “louvers and 8-12” Panels
Shutters
Are shutters with wide louvers (2 1/2 - 4 1/2”) and wide panels (15 - 36”); it provides more ventilation and a clearer view than narrower ones
Plantation Shutters
Are free standing furniture connected by hinges; its practical uses include: (1) prevent drafts, (2) for privacy, and (3) as dividers for spaces
Screens
Chinese wooden folding screens coated in dark lacquer for the Europeans; sometimes decorated with precious stones; appeared in Europe in the late 17th century
Coromandel Screens
Is a traditional Japanese designed panel screens; it is lighter than wood and let’s the light pass; the paper provides privacy and diffuses the light through the room
Shoji Screens
Shoji screens are made out of ___________ paper
Washi Paper
A screen with open framework with crisscrossing and overlapping strips of either wood or metal
Lattice Screens
Are ornately carved screens with pinholes allowing light to penetrate, creating an interesting pattern and exotic background; used extensively in Indian Architecture; also known as JALIS
Pierced Screens
Are used to protect draperies, adding to their durability and longevity; can be used to give weight to light, thinner fabrics, helping them hang better; can also help give uniform appearance to the exterior of a home while allowing those of different fabrics and patterns in the interior
Drapery Liners
A drapery liner either in white or gray/ silver in color; it eliminates inter-lining but is twice the cost of sateen
Milium Sateen
A drapery liner that may have to be inter-lined; most draperies are lined with this
Sateen
Is a drapery liner used for lining but is generally interlinked with white flannel
Glosheen or colored Sateen
Are used to change or enhance the properties of draperies; not generally durable therefore are inserted between the lining and drapery fabrics
Interlining
Lend a nice, airy feeling to a room with drapery hanging just below the pole with rings or drapery fabric fully gated on the pole
Pole Treatments
The size, in diameter, of a brass pole
1 1/2” diameter
The size, in diameter, of a wood pole with 2” rings
1 3/8” diameter
Are soft horizontal treatments mounted across the tops of a window, and are always made entirely of fabric; serve the function of camouflaging the hardware and traverse rods but also give a finished appearance to the framing of a window
Valances
A valance treatment that is arched along the lower edge
Arched Valance
A valance treatment constructed like box pleats, but the pleats are spaced further apart
Kick Pleated Valance
A valance treatment that includes triangularity cut fabric pieces that overlap together
Banner Valance
A long piece of fabric usually designed to drape across the top of a window and hang to the floor on either side, but early customized for unique looks
Scarf
Are stiff paneled headings to curtains; are valances made out of wood, with edges cut either straight or curved; called Valance Board here in the Philippines
Pelmets or Corniceboards
Depth of cornice for Pelmets or Corniceboards usually varies from __________ or _________ depending upon the length and height of the room and material used
4” to 8”
Extends all the way down either side of the window as well as across the top, framing the window on three sides
Lambrequins
Otherwise known as FESTOON; single or double draping of fabric across the top of the window; hung from a foundation cornice
Swag
French term that means ‘bird’s crop’; pleated or draped lengths of fabric hanging down the side of the window
Jabots
Loose hanging ends or tails of Jabots; descending in a zigzag line from the heading or top treatment
Cascades
Its function is to tie back draperies; can be the same fabric as the drapery itself, or in a contrasting fabric, or may have a border, or may be shirred, or may use ornamental pieces or accessories; looks best when placed one-third the distance from either top or bottom
Tie-backs
Are simple ornamental knows or hooks where you attach the tie backs or use them by themselves
Hold Backs
Is defined as decorative cording, braids, or fringes applied to the edges or hems of draperies to match or contrast the panel fabric
Trim
Sewn onto op the edges and hems of curtain panels; often used to decorate pillows, lampshades, and rugs
Fringes
Tassels attached to the bottom edge of curtains; are defined as 8” long bell shaped trims constructed entirely from yarns and are tied together at the neck
Tassel Fringe
Consists of round or elongate wooden turnings that are wound with on or more variety of yarns
Molded Fringes
Fringes that are formed of twisted loops of rope
Bullion Fringe
A woven ribbon used as edging or trimming
Braid
A braid defined as a narrow close-woven band or braid used for trimming draperies and upholstery and commonly made of lace, metallic thread, or embroidery; heavy Gimpe
Galloon
A narrow flat braid or rounded cord of fabric used for trimming
Gimpe or Gimp
Length of cord covered with bias binding and used as a decorative edging; usually bias is used, either same material or contrasting material; aka: WELT
Piping
Strips of material sewn between upholstery seams or drapery seams to give a finished appearance; may be braided or filled with cord
Welting
Strip of pleated material used as a decoration or trim
Ruffles
Are adjustable rods, usually hung by brackets to the wall or the window frame; drawn manually and curtains may be shirred onto the rod or hung by hooks
Flat Curtain Rods
Are flat rods designed for double curtain treatments, such as curtain plus valance; the design of the outside rod is longer than the inside rod
Double Flat Rods
Flat rods are two or three-piece adjustable rods, hinged for use on corner-meeting widows and angled bays
Corner and Bay Window Rods
Small round decorative rod used to mount café curtains that do not have a rod pocket
Cafe Rods
Small rod, either decorating or plain, usually mounted inside a window frame on a sash
Sash Rods
Rods which stay in place inside the window frame through spring tension
Tension Rods
Rods used on windows that have curves; made usually of brass or aluminum
Custom-Bent
Adjustable drapery rods allow the opening and closing of the window treatment by means of a cord and pulley
Traverse Rod
Are traverse rods where curtains and draperies are drawn on both sides; two panels of curtains or draperies; usually overlaps in the middle for a clean look
Conventional Two-way
A traverse Rod that moves only in one panel and in one direction; used on sliding doors; can be made to open on the right or left side
Conventional One-way
May be exposed traversed rods; only available as two way; can be reconfigured as one way
Decorative
An attachment placed at each end of a curtain rod, originally to stop curtain rings from falling off, but is now treated as a decorative addition
Finials
