Interior Fnishes Flashcards

1
Q

True or False:
The installation of interior finishes
begins after a building has been
enclosed, once the interior is
protected from the weather.

A

True

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2
Q

Interior finishes

A

– Roofing works must be finished
– Cladding installed, and doors and windows set.
– The electrical and mechanical trades can begin installing electrical, communications,
telephone, and computer systems, as well as waste and potable water lines; automatic
sprinkler systems; and heating, cooling, and ventilation systems.
– Installation of transportation systems, such as elevators, escalators, and moving walks and ramps, can also commence.

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3
Q

What are the Performance Criteria for Interior Finishes?

A
  • Environmental concerns
  • Appearance
  • Cost
  • Code Requirements
  • Durability
  • Maintenance
  • Acoustical Considerations
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4
Q

Materials made from rapidly renewable natural resources, those containing post-consumer or post-industrial recycled content, and materials that are themselves readily recycled.

A

Environmental concerns

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5
Q

Products that off-gas volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and other toxins that reduce indoor
air quality should be avoided.

A

Environmental concerns

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6
Q

Interior finishes are chosen according to their appearance to set the mood and atmosphere of a space.

A

Appearance

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7
Q

Finish systems generally hide the structural, mechanical, and electrical systems and provide quality interior surfaces.

A

Appearance

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8
Q

Consideration of material costs and the labor to install them, including a contractor’s overhead and profit

A

Cost

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9
Q

Other cost factors include the expected life- cycle of materials before replacement is required, regular maintenance, minor repairs, and the possibility of increased
replacement costs years later because of inflation and increased labor costs

A

Cost

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10
Q

Building codes, and local regulations must be consulted when selecting interior finish materials.

A

Code Requirements

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11
Q

of interior finishes includes the ability of exposed material (and any protective or decorative coating) to resist damage from abrasion or dirt. In areas where wear and tear is expected, hard-surfaced materials provide considerable protection.

A

Durability

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12
Q

requirements and the effort required to preserve the appeal of finishes is considered during materials selection.

A

Maintenance

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13
Q

Consideration must be given to the ability of a finish to control sound created within an
area, as well as restrict its flow through walls, ceiling, and floor to adjoining areas.

A

Acoustical considerations

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14
Q

It is the process of covering rough surfaces of walls, columns, ceilings and other building components with thin coat of mortars to form a smooth durable surface.

A

Plastering

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15
Q

It is a mixture of cement and sand along with the required quantity of water.

A

Plastering

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16
Q

Objectives of Plastering

A
  • To protect the external surfaces against penetration of rainwater and other atmospheric agencies
  • To give smooth surface in which dust and dirt cannot lodge
  • To provide a satisfactory base for decorating the surface by white washing, color washing, distempering or painting
  • To conceal inferior materials or defective workmanship
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17
Q

Types of Plasters used in Plastering Work

A
  • Gypsum Plaster
  • Lime Plaster
  • Mud Plaster
  • Cement Plaster
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18
Q

is a paste formed by mixing the gypsum powder and water in a suitable proportion

A

Gypsum Plaster

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19
Q

No sand is used in this type of plaster. Only mixing of gypsum powder and water is done to prepare this.

A

Gypsum Plaster

20
Q

The setting of unmodified plaster
starts about 10 minutes after
mixing and is complete in about
45 minutes; but not fully set for 72
hours.

A

Gypsum Plaster

21
Q

When lime is mixed with the sand
in the presence of the proper
quantity of water

A

Lime Plaster

22
Q

The proportion of lime and sand for
lime plastering is generally taken
as 1:3 to 1:4 and has a curing time of
about one month.

A

Lime Plaster

23
Q

This plaster is prepared by mixing
an adequate percentage of clay
and sand content. A small amount
of cow dunk is added to this
plaster to receive a better surface

A

Mud Plaster

24
Q

This plaster is environmentally
friendly, and repairing work is
easy and inexpensive.

A

Mud Plaster

25
Q

The generally used mixed proportion
of cement and sand

A

Cement plaster

26
Q

The generally used mixed proportion
of cement and sand for cement plaster
are

A

1: 4, 1:5, and 1:6

27
Q

Internal plaster
External plaster
Ceiling plaster

A

– 1:6 or 1:5
– 1:4
– 1:3

28
Q

Procedure of Plastering Work

A
  1. Preparation of Surface for Plastering
  2. Groundwork for Plastering
  3. Applying Under Coat or Base Coat
  4. Applying Finishing Coat
  5. Curing of Plastering works
29
Q

Plastering Problems and Solutions

A
  • Slow set
  • Quicksetting
  • Dry-out
  • Sweat-out
  • Cracking
  • Loosening
30
Q

Spraying the unset surface with a solution of zinc sulfate,
followed by a brisk floating of the surface.

A

slow set

31
Q

Accelerating unmixed plaster can be remedied by the addition of accelerators as approved by the specification

A

slow set

32
Q

Because plaster never should be re-tempered, this
material should be discarded

A

quicksetting

33
Q

If atmospheric conditions prove to be the reason, a retarder can be added as approved by the specifications

A

quicksetting

34
Q

Water should be added with a soft
spray, and openings should be closed
to reduce wind through the building
and cut down the rate of evaporation

A

dry-out

34
Q

Addition of artificial heat in cold
weather, or opening of doors and
windows in warmer weather.

A

sweat-out

35
Q
  • Areas to be investigated include deflection of the structural frame and
    shrinkage of unseasoned lumber.
  • Settlement of the foundation walls also can cause cracking.
  • A thickness of less than 1/2 in. may make the plaster vulnerable.
  • Ratio of mixture should be reviewed
  • Thermal Shock through either application of too much heat or sudden
    applications of cold.
A

cracking

36
Q

(When plaster has been properly
mixed and applied)

A

cracking

37
Q

May be due to the use of an inappropriate surface, which is too dense, glazed, or made of a material that will not accept bonding of the plaster

A

loosening

38
Q

(Excess water has not evaporated,
and walls remain damp for an
extended period.)

A

sweat-out

39
Q

(The surface is soft and crumbly with
a light chalky appearance)

A

dry-out

40
Q

(Sometimes caused by using water in
which hardened plaster has been
allowed to drop from tools or
atmospheric conditions)

A

quicksetting

41
Q

(Plaster should set within two to
three hours after having been mixed
with water, and always within four)

A

slow set

42
Q

Preparation of Surface for Plastering

A

– Keep all the mortar joints of wall rough, so as to give a good bonding to hold plaster.
– Roughen the entire wall to be plastered.
– Clean all the joints and surfaces of the wall with a wire brush, there should be no oil or grease etc. left on wall surface.
– If there exist any cavities or holes on the surface, then fill it in advance with appropriate material.
– If the surface is smooth or the wall to be plastered is old one, then rake out the mortar joint to a depth of at least 12 mm to give a better bonding to the plaster.
– Wash the mortar joints and entire wall to be plastered, and keep it wet for at least 6 hours before applying cement plaster.
– If the projection on the wall surface is more than 12 mm, then knock it off, so as to obtain a uniform surface of wall. This will reduce the consumption of plaster.
– Hacking must be made on all concrete surfaces such as columns, beams, ceiling, and retaining wall before plastering to ensure proper bonding between mortar and surface.
– Ensure all the electrical conducting work is complete.
– Cover groove cutting by chicken mesh to avoid cracks developed by groves in the future.

43
Q

Groundwork for Plastering

A

– In order to get uniform thickness of plastering throughout the wall surface, first fix dots on the wall. A dot means patch of plaster of size 15 mm * 15 mm and having thickness of about 10 mm.
– Dots are fixed on the wall first horizontally and then vertically at a distance of about 2 meters covering the entire wall surface.
– Check the verticality of dots, one over the other, by means of plumb-bob.
– After fixing dots, the vertical strips of plaster, known as screeds, are formed in between the dots. These screeds serve as the gauges for maintaining even thickness of plastering
being applied.

44
Q

Applying Under Coat or Base Coat

A

– In case of brick masonry the thickness of first coat plaster is in general 12 mm and in case of concrete masonry this thickness varies from 9 to 15 mm.
– The ratio of cement and sand for first coat plaster varies from 1:3 to 1:6.
– Apply the first coat of plaster between the spaces formed by the screeds on the wall surface. This is done by means of trowel.
– Level the surface by means of flat wooden floats and wooden straight edges.
– After leveling, left the first coat to set but not to dry and then roughen it with a scratching tool to form a key to the second coat of plaster.

45
Q

Applying Finishing Coat

A

– The thickness of second coat or finishing coat may vary between 2 to 3 mm.
– The ratio of cement and sand for second coat plaster varies from 1:4 to 1:6.
– Before applying the second coat, damp the first coat evenly.
– Apply the finishing coat with wooden floats to a true even surface and using a steeltrowel, give it a finishing touch.
– As far as possible, the finishing coat should be applied starting from top towards bottom and completed in one operation to eliminate joining marks.

46
Q

Curing of Plastering works

A

– After completion of the plastering work, it is kept wet by sprinkling water for at least 7days in order to develop strength and hardness.
– Improper curing may lead to cracks formation or efflorescence in plaster work