Inputs

Question 1

fetch

Answer 1

the distance of open water over which the wind blows uninterrupted by major land obstacles

Question 2

the length of fetch determines…

Answer 2

the magnitude and energy of the waves reaching the coast

Question 3

waves are created by…

Answer 3

the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the sea surface (frictional drag)

Question 4

wave frequency/period

Answer 4

the time for 1 wave to travel the distance of one wavelength or the time between 1 crest and the following crest passing a fixed point

Question 5

swash

Answer 5

the rush of water running up the beach

Question 6

backwash

Answer 6

any water running back down the beach towards the sea

Question 7

waves are driven by

Answer 7

the wind

Question 8

negative feedback

Answer 8

constant cycle of: constructive waves build up beach (steeper profile) which encourages waves back as destructive, with time destructive moves material towards sea, reducing angle, encouraging more constructive waves

Question 9

wave refraction

Answer 9

when waves approach a coastline that is not regular shape, they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to coastline

Question 10

current

Answer 10

the permanent or seasonal movement of surface waves in seas and oceans

Question 11

longshore currents (littoral drift)

Answer 11

most waves approach at an angle to coastline so generates flow of water running parallel to shoreline

Question 12

rip currents

Answer 12

strong currents moving away from shoreline developed when seawater is piled up by incoming waves

Question 13

upswelling

Answer 13

movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards surface as more dense cold water replaces the warmer surface water and creates nutrient rich colder ocean currents

Question 14

tides

Answer 14

the periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea

Question 15

cause of tides

Answer 15

gravitational pull of sun and moon (moon has greater force as closer) so moon pulls water towards it creating high tide and compensatory bulge on opposite side of Earth

Question 16

as the moon orbits the earth…

Answer 16

high tides follow it

Question 17

tidal range

Answer 17

the difference in height of seawater at high and low tide but not fixed due to tidal cycles

Question 18

tidal range determines…

Answer 18

upper and lower limits of erosion and deposition

the time each day the littoral zone is exposed and open to subaerial weathering

Question 19

low tidal ranges

Answer 19

along coast of Mediterranean Sea which restricts wave action to narrow width

Question 20

high tidal ranges

Answer 20

parts of British Isles which gives wide zone of wave attack so forming wide wave-cut platforms

Question 21

macrotidal

Answer 21

more than 4m

Question 22

mesotidal

Answer 22

2-4m

Question 23

microtidal

Answer 23

less than 2m

Question 24

sources of sediment

Answer 24

streams/rivers into sea
estuaries
cliff erosion
offshore sand banks
material from biological origin *shells

Question 25

sediment cells

Answer 25

distinct areas of coastline separated from areas by well-defined boundaries, regarded as closed systems, vary in size

Question 26

concordant coastline

Answer 26

where the rocks lie parallel to the coast

Question 27

disconcordant

Answer 27

where the rocks lie perpendicular to the coast

Question 28

changes in sea level in last 10,000 years

Answer 28

rising an average 0,42 to 0,48 inches a year, started declining in 2010 and 2011 locked up as snow/ice

Question 29

rias

Answer 29

drowned river valleys

Question 30

fjords

Answer 30

drowned glacial valleys

Question 31

dalmatian coast

Answer 31

When the valleys are flooded by the rise in sea level, the tops of the valleys remain above the surface of the sea and appear to be a series of islands that run parallel to the coastline

Question 32

raised beaches

Answer 32

areas of former wave-cut platforms at a level higher than current sea level

Question 33

marine platform/terrace

Answer 33

formerly submerged land exposed

Question 34

effect of wave refraction on headlands

Answer 34

waves drag in shallow water, wave becomes high/steep/short, part of wave in deeper water moves faster, wave bends, low-energy wave spills into bays as most energy concentrated on headland