Hairstyling, haircutting, chemical styling Flashcards
pass state board
Surfaces on the head where the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, and occipital bone, are referred
to as _____.
reference points
Reference points in a haircut are used to establish _____.
design lines
Achieving balance within a design can be accomplished by understanding the _____ and reference
points.
head shape
What is the widest part of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown, that
can be found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head?
Parietal ridge
What bone protrudes at the base of the skull?
Occipital bone
The _____ is the highest point on the top of the head, and can be located easily by placing a comb on
top of the head and noticing that the comb is resting on the highest point.
apex
The location of the four corners signals a change in _____.
head shape
The two front corners represent the widest part of the _____.
bang area
Hair that grows below the parietal ridge, or crest, hangs because of _____.
gravity
What area of the head is located between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge?
Crown
The _____ area is defined as the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the
occipital bone.
nape
By making a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can locate the _____ of
the head, which consists of all the hair that falls naturally behind the ear.
back
What is the triangular section of the head that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners?
Bang area
A(n) _____ is a thin, continuous mark, curved or straight, used as a guide while cutting hair.
line
What is the working area of the hair that is separated prior to cutting?
Section
A(n) _____ is created when the space between two lines or surfaces intersects at a given point.
angle
An important element in creating a strong foundation and consistency in haircutting and creating
shapes is the use of _____.
angles
The three types of straight lines in haircutting include horizontal, vertical, and _____ lines.
diagonal
What type of haircutting lines are parallel to the floor and relative to the horizon?
Horizontal lines
What type of haircutting lines are perpendicular to the horizon, and are used to remove weight to
create graduated or layered haircuts, and higher elevations?
Vertical lines
_____ lines in a haircut are those that lie between the horizontal and vertical, have a slanting or sloping
direction, and help to blend long layers into short layers to create fullness.
Diagonal
_____, or stacking, involves using diagonal lines to create angles by cutting the ends of the hair with a
slight increase or decrease in length.
Beveling
For control during haircutting, the hair is parted into working areas called _____.
sections
What is the line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section from another to create
subsections?
Parting
_____, also known as
a. Elevation
Elevation creates graduation and layers, and is usually described in _____.
degrees
What is the elevation, or degrees, contained in a blunt or one-length haircut?
0
When the hair is elevated _____, you are building weight in a haircut.
below 90 degrees
What hair type requires less elevation and should be left a bit longer when cutting because of
shrinkage as it dries?
Curly hair
_____ occurs when the hair contracts or lifts through the action of moisture loss or drying.
Shrinkage
The angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the shape is referred to as the
_____.
cutting line
A(n) _____, also know as a guide, is a subsection of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut,
and is usually the first section cut when creating a shape.
guideline
Which guideline is used in a blunt, one-length haircut, or used in overdirection to create a length or
weight increase?
Stationary
Which guideline involves a small slice of a previous subsection that is moved to the next position and
becomes the new guideline?
Traveling guide
What technique should be used to create a length increase in the design of graduated and layered
haircuts?
Overdirection
If you want hair to be longer toward the front on a layered haircut, overdirect the sections to a
stationary guide at the _____.
back of the ears
A _____ is a conversation between you and your client when you find out what the client is looking
for, offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a joint decision about the most suitable
haircut.
client consultation
You can begin to make decisions about the best haircut for a client by analyzing his or her _____.
face shape
A client’s _____ is how he or she looks from the side and can be best viewed by pulling the hair away
from the face and up and away from the neck.
profile
If hair shrinks when it dries, you will need to cut wet hair _____ than the desired length.
1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch
The _____ is the direction in which hair grows from the scalp and is also called the natural falling
position.
growth pattern
Cowlicks and whorls are examples of _____ that will affect where the hair ends up once it is dry,
especially in the nape.
growth patterns
You should use the _____ degree of tension when cutting hair with strong growth patterns, or around
the ears, to compensate for the hair being pushed up when it dries.
minimum
Hair _____ is the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch (2.5 cm2) of scalp and is usually
described as thin, medium, or thick.
density
Hair _____ is based on the thickness or diameter of each hair strand, usually classified as coarse,
medium, and fine.
texture
Which description is most accurate of fine, thin hair?
It needs weight and is limp.
The _____, or the amount of movement in the hair strand, varies from client to client, as well as within
the same head of hair.
wave pattern
_____ shears, also known as scissors, are mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair, to slide cut,
point cut, or to implement other texturizing techniques.
Haircutting
Which type of shear is used mainly to remove bulk from the hair, and is often referred to as a thinning
shear, tapering shear, or notching shear?
Texturizing
Shears that are designed to remove more hair, with larger teeth set farther apart, are known as _____.
notching shears
Which type of comb is used mainly to detangle the hair?
Wide-tooth comb
The comb used for close tapers on the nape and sides, and when using a scissor-over-comb technique,
is a _____.
barber comb
Which three countries are primarily responsible for manufacturing the steel used to make professional
shears?
Japan, Germany, and the United States
The _____ indicates the method of gauging the hardness of the metal (steel) of an individual shear in
order to ensure that it maintains a sharp edge for an extended period of time.
Rockwell hardness
What is the ideal Rockwell hardness of a shear?
56–57
Professional shears are made by either casting or forging the steel. Which process is best for ensuring
shear durability, ease of adjustment or repair, and highest quality?
Forging only
A tension in your shears that is too _____ will allow your shears to fold the hair.
loose
Before purchasing _____, the stylist should inquire about the manufacturing, steel quality, and the
right blade edge.
shears
The best overall blade edge for a hair stylist is _____, because it will give you the smoothest cut and is
the sharpest edge possible.
convex
Which type of texture shear adds increased blending?
Texturizing
When your shear is properly fitted, the thumb hole will rest at or slightly over the _____.
cuticle area of the thumb
_____ in haircutting is the amount of pressure applied when combing or holding a subsection during a
haircut.
Tension
A general rule of thumb when cutting hair is to stand or sit directly in front of the area you are cutting,
and to keep your body weight _____.
centered
The hand position that is used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers is called _____.
cutting over fingers
What is the best way to maintain control of the subsection when cutting with a vertical or diagonal
cutting line?
Palm-to-palm
_____ reduces strain on the index finger and thumb while cutting the hair.
Palming the shears
In a _____ haircut, also known as a one-length haircut, all of the hair comes to a single-hanging level
forming a weight line.
blunt
The _____ is the visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together.
weight line
Haircuts that generally have less weight than graduated haircuts are called _____.
layered cuts
A(n) _____ is a basic haircut, cut at a 90-degree elevation and then overdirected to maintain length and
weight at the perimeter.
long-layered cut
The technique used to check a haircut for precision of line and shape is called _____.
cross-checking
_____ should not be used on curly hair because it weakens the cuticle and causes the hair to frizz.
A razor
It is important to work with the natural _____, or where and how hair is moved over the head, when
locating the bang area.
distribution
Which method involves cutting or layering the hair in such a way that the fingers and shears glide
along the edge of the hair to remove length?
Slide cutting
The process of removing excess bulk without shortening hair length is called _____.
texturizing
_____ is another version of point cutting, in which a more aggressive technique is used to create a
Notching
Effilating, also known as _____, is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears.
slithering
When using the slicing technique to remove weight and add movement through the lengths of the hair,
the shears should never be completely _____.
closed
Electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal
plate with teeth are called _____.
clippers
What technique allows you to cut hair very close to the scalp and create a flat top or square shape?
Clipper-over-comb
A professional _____ is responsible for educating clients about at-home maintenance and styling
options for their hair.
hairstylist
What process shapes and directs the hair into an S pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and
finger-waving lotion, and was the rage in the 1920s and 1930s?
Finger waving
What substance, also known as liquid gel, makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the
finger-waving procedure?
Finger-waving lotion
_____ curls serve as a basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of
hairstyles and can be used on all types of hair, including straight, permanent waved, or naturally curly
Pin
The _____ is the stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl, on the area closest to the scalp
base
What section of the pin curl lies between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the curl its
direction and movement, and determines the amount of mobility or movement in a section of hair?
Stem
What type of curl is placed directly on the base of the curl and produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl
and allows minimum mobility?
No-stem curl
What type of curl is placed completely off base and allows for the greatest mobility?
Full-stem curl
A _____ is a section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of
shaping
What are the pin curls that produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls?
Open-center curls
Which pin curls produce waves that get smaller in size toward the end?
Closed-center curls
The terms _____ curls and _____ curls are used to describe the direction of pin curls.
clockwise; counterclockwise
_____ base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upswept effect.
Rectangular
What pin curl base is recommended for use along the front hairline to prevent splits or breaks in the
finished style?
Triangular base
What is the most commonly shaped pin curl base?
Arc base
Arc base pin curls are also known as half-moon or _____ base curls.
C-shaped base curls
Forcing hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension is called _____.
ribboning
Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are referred to as
_____.
carved curls
Ridge curls are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a _____.
wave
Two rows of ridge curls on the side of a head are called _____.
skip waves
Large diameter pin curls that are similar to a roller, but do not have the same amount of tension, are
called _____.
barrel curls
Which pin curls are fastened to the head in a standing position to create height in the hair design?
Cascade curls
What is the panel of hair on which the roller is placed?
Base
How is the hair wrapped around the roller to create curls in the hair?
With two and a half turns
Rollers should be placed _____ in a roller set where the least amount of volume is desired.
completely off the base
A(n) _____ is the point where curls of opposite direction meet, forming a recessed area.
indentation
_____ rollers are used only on dry hair because using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair.
Velcro
Backcombing, also known as _____, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small
sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a
cushion or base.
teasing
Backbrushing, also known as _____, is used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl
patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out.
ruffing
What styling technique is used to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining its shape?
Wrapping
What technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation has revolutionized the hairstyling
world?
Blowdry styling
What nozzle attachment of a blowdryer directs the air stream to any section of the hair more intensely?
Concentrator
What blowdryer attachment is used to accentuate or keep textural definition by allowing the air to flow
more softly?
Diffuser
Which brushes are used to blowdry precision haircuts where little or no volume is desired?
Classic styling brushes
What are the large, flat brushes with staggered pin patterns that are used for mid- to longer-hair
length?
Paddle brushes
Grooming brushes that add polish and shine to the hair have a bristle mixture consisting of _____.
boar and nylon
Styling foam, a light, airy, whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam, is also called _____.
mousse
_____, also known as texturizers, are styling products that are lighter and less viscous than firm-hold
gels, making them ideal to use for easy styling, defining, and molding.
Liquid gels
_____, also known as serum, adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition.
Silicone
What is the most widely used hairstyling product?
Hair spray
_____ waving and curling, also known as Marcel waving, are methods of waving and curling straight
or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques.
Thermal
_____ irons with straight edges are used to create smooth, straight, styles – even on very curly hair.
Flat
The edge of a flat iron that is nearest to the stylist is called the _____.
inner edge
Combs that are used for thermal curling should be made of _____.
hard rubber
The correct temperature setting of the iron for thermal curling is determined by the _____.
texture of the hair
As a rule of thumb, coarse and gray hair can withstand more heat than _____.
fine hair
What type of curls are suitable for one length hair?
Spiral curls
_____ curls provide maximum lift or volume, since the curl is placed very high on its base.
Volume-base
When creating full-base curls, the hair should be held with medium tension at a _____.
125-degree angle
Placed completely off their base, _____ curls offer a curl option with only slight lift and volume.
off-base
What process involves temporarily straightening extremely curly hair by means of a heated comb?
Hair pressing
What hair pressing process removes 50 to 60 percent of the curl?
Soft press
What hair type is very resistant to hair pressing and requires more heat and pressure?
Wiry/curly
When the client’s scalp is classified as flexible, remember to _____ to press the hair satisfactorily.
use enough tension
Good-quality pressing combs are constructed of either _____.
stainless steel or brass
Pressing combs with less space between the teeth produce a _____.
smooth press
It is important to _____ a new brass pressing comb so that it will hold heat evenly along its entire
length and provide consistent results.
temper
After heating, the temperature of the pressing comb should be tested using _____.
light paper
Carbon buildup can be removed from the metal portion of a pressing comb by immersing the metal
portion of the comb in a solution containing _____.
baking soda
A _____ is sometimes necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or
other conditions.
touch-up
_____ and skin rashes are the two general types of injuries that can occur in hair pressing.
Burns
Avoid excessive heat, particularly when pressing _____ hair, to avoid discoloration and breakage.
gray
When executing an updo, inspect the shape from every angle to make sure it is _____.
well-balanced and proportioned
What true classic hairdo is created out of a simple ponytail that can be simply styled or dressed up?
Chignon
The twist, also referred to as the French _____, is a classic long hairstyle that is popular in the salon
for clients attending formal functions.
pleat
_____ give you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern, thereby
offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.
Chemical texture services
Without a thorough understanding of _____, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and
harm their clients and themselves.
chemistry
What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the
hair from damage?
Cuticle
Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible
strength and elasticity of human hair?
Cortex
Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?
Medulla
The term pH is an abbreviation used for potential _____, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of
_____ ions in solution.
hydrogen; hydrogen
The _____ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen
ions it contains.
pH scale
The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _____.
0 to 14
Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _____.
soften and swell the shaft
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical
solution that is _____.
highly alkaline
What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?
Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds
Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?
Amino acids
Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains,
to form a polypeptide chain?
Peptide bonds
What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end-to-end like beads?
Keratin proteins
The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side
bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.
disulfide, salt, and hydrogen
What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together?
Disulfide bonds
Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative
and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?
Salt bonds
Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and
positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____.
dried
_____ is a two-step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping
the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving
solution and neutralizer.
Permanent waving
What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?
The size of the rod
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the
_____.
wrapping method
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
_____.
reduction
In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _____.
hydrogen
What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving?
Thioglycolic acids
The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the
reducing agent, or thio.
strength
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____.
ammonium thioglycolate
What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?
Degree of alkalinity
Alkaline waves, also known as _____, were developed in 1941.
cold waves
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____.
9.0 and 9.6
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _____.
activator
Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _____.
7.8 and 8.2
Modern acid waves are actually _____ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral
pH.
acid-balanced
Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____.
processing
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are
_____ waves.
endothermic
_____ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that
there is very little odor associated with their use.
Ammonia-free
It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia-free does not necessarily mean _____.
damage-free
What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the
primary reducing agent?
Thio-free
_____ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfites, considered very weak, and are usually
marketed as body waves or alternative waves.
Low-pH
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair,
within the first _____.
5–10 minutes
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____.
overprocessed
Overprocessed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including
breakage.
straighter
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is
called _____.
thio neutralization
What is the most common neutralizer?
Hydrogen peroxide
What is the most common type of perm rod?
Concave rods
What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?
Straight rods
What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter
along the entire length of the rod?
Soft bender rods
_____, also known as circle rods, are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform
diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a
loop.
Loop rods
The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand
of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends.
double flat wrap
The _____ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand.
single flat wrap
The _____ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
bookend wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____.
panels
In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called _____.
base sections
_____ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at
which the hair is wrapped.
Base placement
Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional _____.
stress and tension on hair
_____ minimizes stress and tension on the hair.
Half off-base placement
The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as _____.
base direction
The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are _____.
croquignole and spiral
In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric
layers.
ends to the scalp
In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which
causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod.
spiral perm wrap
What is another name for the double-rod wrap technique?
Piggyback wrap
The _____, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel
move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases.
basic permanent wrap
Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?
Curvature permanent wrap
Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow
of the hair, in which wrapping pattern?
Bricklay permanent wrap
What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using
zigzag partings to divide base areas?
Weave technique
Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _____.
abrasions
Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for _____ and will not hold a curl.
permanent waving
_____, often found in home haircoloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven
curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
Metallic salts
What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?
Chemical hair relaxing
_____ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.
Viscosity
_____ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.
Japanese thermal straighteners
What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?
Hydrogen ion
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _____.
thio relaxers
Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) _____.
lanthionine bond
Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing?
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____.
lye relaxers
Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix–no lye relaxers?
Potassium hydroxide relaxers
Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _____.
guanidine hydroxide relaxers
What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?
No-base relaxer
The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of
_____.
hydroxide
During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _____.
insufficiently relaxed
Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hair’s natural pH and should be used after a
hydroxide relaxer?
Normalizing lotion
Keratin straightening treatments work by _____ in a semi-permanent manner.
fixing the keratin in place
A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _____.
soft curl permanent
Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant
area?
Back of the head
