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Master Colorist > Hair And Color Chemistry > Flashcards

Hair And Color Chemistry Flashcards

1
Q

How many different representations of a cross section of hair is represented in the hair structure slide?

A

2

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2
Q

What are the differences between the two cross section of hair presented on the hair structure slide?

A

One is the commonly accepted
-cuticle
-cortex
-medulla

One is what we refer to at APM
-Cuticle
-lipid cement layer
-cortex

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3
Q

Why is the Alfaparf cross section of hair the preference for teaching?

A

The medulla is of no interest
The recognition of the lipid cement layer.

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4
Q

Does the medulla always exist?

A

No

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5
Q

Is the lipid cement layer a separate layer of the of the hair structure?

A

No

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6
Q

Is the lipid cement layer integral to the cortex?

A

Yes

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7
Q

What does the lipid cement layer allow us to recognize and analyze?

A

The difference between
a.) Damaged: structure
b.) Damaged: Dry

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8
Q

What do we ask the group before we present slide 3 the hair structure slide?

A

What are the three layers of the hair and their functions?

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9
Q

What is the opening question to start the class?

A

What was the first piece of hair science that you learned when you were training to become a hairdresser? OR What was the first piece of hair science that you were taught?

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10
Q

Why do we ignore the medulla?

A

Because it has no true function.

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11
Q

What is the importance of the lipid cement layer?

A

Allows for us to recognize and analyze the difference between damaged dry or damaged structure.

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12
Q

What is the purpose of the medulla?

A

No true purpose

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13
Q

What answers are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cortex?

A
  • cosmetic pigments
    -natural pigments
  • Protein / Keratin
  • Strength information about the hair.
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14
Q

What answer are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cuticle?

A
  • the protective layer of the hair.
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15
Q

What is the purpose of building the hair structure slide and the functions of each traditionally identified layers of the hair?

A

To introduce and separate the APM representation.

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16
Q

What are the main ideas listed on the cortex slide?

A
  • polypeptide chain
    -healthy / damaged hair
    -the bonds
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17
Q

What idea about protein is discussed when presenting the cortex slide?

A

Protein is not one thing.

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18
Q

Is protein one thing?

A

No

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19
Q

What do amino acids group together to create?

A

Peptides

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20
Q

What do peptides group together to make?

A

Polypeptides

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21
Q

What do polypeptides group together to become?

A

Protein

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22
Q

Where is “all of the work done” in the hair?

A

Cortex

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23
Q

What is a protein?

A

A complex biological structure that we can manipulate.

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24
Q

What are polypeptides held together with?

A

Some interesting bonds

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25
Q

What main ideas are listed on the slide that has two polypeptide chains with the bonds connecting them?

A

Hydrogen Bond
Ionic bond
Sulfur bridge

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26
Q

What is discussed on slide 5?

A

The bonds

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27
Q

What can be said about hydrogen bonds?

A

Weak, broken by water

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28
Q

What can be said about Ionic bonds?

A

Also weak, broken by a mild chemical such as shampoo.

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29
Q

When talking about curly to straight blow drying, what change is being discussed

A

Alfa keratin to beta keratin

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30
Q

What keratin is presenting itself when the hair is in its natural shape.

A

Alfa keratin

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31
Q

What keratin is presenting itself when the hair has been temporary changed?

A

Beta keratin

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32
Q

When the hair is re-wet after being styled and it returns to it’s natural state what is this due to?

A

The sulfur bridge.

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33
Q

Where is the memory of the hair contained?

A

The sulfur bridge

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34
Q

What gives the hair its identity?

A

The sulfur bridge

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35
Q

What question is asked after presenting slide 4 before presenting slide 5

A

How do I test for elasticity?

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36
Q

What should the state of the hair be in when performing an elasticity test?

A

Wet

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37
Q

Why is the elasticity test done on wet hair?

A

Because we break down the hydrogen and ionic bonds. We don’t care about them.

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38
Q

What action do hydrogen and ionic bonds provide to sulfur bonds?

A

Support

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39
Q

How many strands of hair should be used when performing an elasticity test?

A

3 - 5 , coarse -fine

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40
Q

Why isn’t 1 strand of hair recommended for an elasticity test?

A

Because it is not strong enough on its own and gives a false impression of damage.

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41
Q

Why is the range of elasticity done on 3-8 strands of hair?

A

Because one strand alone will give a false impression of damage.

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42
Q

When performing a strand test what are you looking for?

A

A point of resistance.

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43
Q

If hair is weak, what characteristic will it have

A

Little resistance

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44
Q

If hair is strong, what characteristic will it have?

A

More resistance

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45
Q

If hair has little resistance what is that telling us about the sulphur bridge?

A

That few of them are in tact.

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46
Q

If hair has a lot of resistance, what is this telling us about the sulfur bridge?

A

There are a lot of them intact.

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47
Q

What are the main talking points listed on slide 6 , Lipid Cement Layer.

A
  • The importance of hydration
  • How it effects the behavior in of the cuticle
  • Combabilty test
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48
Q

How do we describe glass?

A

Strong and brittle

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49
Q

What happens if you drop an object made of glass?

A

Shatters and breaks

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50
Q

Why does glass break if it is dropped?

A

Because it is brittle

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51
Q

What is a way to explain brittle

A

Strength without flexibility

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52
Q

What does the hair have to be in order to be considered healthy?

A

Strong and flexible

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53
Q

What is the function of the lipid cement layer?

A

Hydration

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54
Q

When the lipid cement layer is well hydrated, what can we compare it to?

A

An inflated balloon.

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55
Q

What do we compare to an inflated balloon?

A

A well hydrated lipid cement layer.

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56
Q

A well hydrated lipid cement layer and an inflated ballon have what in common ?

A

A smooth surface

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57
Q

If the lipid cement layer a smooth, what does this allow the cuticle to do?

A

Lay smoothly around the surface of the cortex.

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58
Q

What is the lipid cement layer like when it’s dehydrated??

A

A deflated balloon.

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59
Q

If the lipid cement layer is dehydrated what characteristic does the surface have?

A

Irregular

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60
Q

What happens to the cuticle layer when the lipid cement layer is irregular?

A

It is forced open

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61
Q

What does the combabilty test tell us about ?

A

Hydration.

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62
Q

How do you prepare the hair for a combability test?

A

1.) Wash the hair with shampoo (no conditioner)
2.) gently towel dry
3.) choose a section of hair to detangle

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63
Q

How is the combability test done after the hair has been shampooed and towel dried?

A

By detangling a section of the hair.

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64
Q

If you have to comb the hair 1-2 times to detangle, what is this telling me about the hair?

A

The cuticle is closed , and the hair is healthy.

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65
Q

If you have to comb the hair 3-6 times what is this telling me about the hair?

A

That the cuticle is forced open and the hair is dry.

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66
Q

If you have to comb through the hair 7 + times what is this telling me about the hair?

A

That the cuticle is really forced open and the hair is very dry.

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67
Q

What is on slide 7?

A

Diagnosis axis

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68
Q

What is master colorist not just about?

A

The formula in the bowl

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69
Q

What is the master colorist program?

A

A holistic approach to hair color.

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70
Q

What do artists do before painting?

A

Prep their canvas

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71
Q

What do we as hair artists prep?

A

The hair

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72
Q

What does the hair diagnosis matrix allow for?

A

To understand how to recommend the correct care program for our client.

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73
Q

What is the journey we follow when repairing the hair?

A

From very damaged to very dry and through to healthy.

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74
Q

Can hair be damaged without being dry?

A

No

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75
Q

Why can’t hair be damaged without being dry?

A

Because damage happens from the outside in.

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76
Q

In what order is the hair structure damaged?

A

1.) cuticle
2.) lipid cement layer
3.) cortex

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77
Q

What metaphor is used to describe the protective layer of the hair and how it’s attacked?

A

Soldiers

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78
Q

What gets introduced after talking about the Diagnosis matrix?

A

Semi di lino

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79
Q

Why is SDL particular?

A

Each line has a totally unique formula

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80
Q

What is not a common method of manufacturing a care line?

A

Make a generic batch then add the active ingredients.

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81
Q

Because SDL is so targeted to heal problems of the hair what does it rely heavily on?

A

Diagnosis and recommendation by the stylist.

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82
Q

What does slide 8 talk about?

A

SDL Reconstruction

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83
Q

What are the key points on slide 8 “SDL reconstruction?

A
  • Concentrated formula
  • Rich in Silica - strength and resistance
  • UDP
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84
Q

What amino acids make up the peptide in SDL reconstruction?

A

Glutamic acid
lysine acid
Lauric acid

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85
Q

How are the peptides in SDL reconstruction organized?

A

(Glutamic acid - lysine acid - glutamic acid ) joined to two chains of fatty acids called lauric acid

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86
Q

What does the peptide in SDL Reconstruction have an affinity to?

A

Water

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87
Q

What does the peptide in SDL reconstruction provide to the cortex?

A

Repair

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88
Q

What is attached to the outside of the peptide in SDL Reconstruction?

A

Lauric acid chains

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89
Q

What are the active ingredients in SDL Reconstruction?

A

Silica
Gemini Amphiphile

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90
Q

What is SDL rich in?

A

Silica

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91
Q

What is silica sourced from??

A

Bamboo

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92
Q

What is bamboo known for?

A

Strength

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93
Q

What does silica provide to the hair?

A

Support and strength

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94
Q

What is the peptide in SDL Reconstruction called?

A

Gemini Amphiphile

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95
Q

What is the Gemini Amphiphile made of??

A

Glutamic acid - Lysine acid and Lauric acid

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96
Q

What is the Gemini Amphiphile joined to?

A

Two Lauric acid chains

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97
Q

What does the Gemini Amphiphile do?

A

Reinforces the keratin chain by binding into the lipid cement layer.

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98
Q

What is Lauric acid?

A

A fatty acid

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99
Q

What does Lauric acid do?

A

Binds into the lipid cement layer.

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100
Q

Because Lauric acid can bind into the lipid cement layer, what does this allow the Gemini Amphiphile to do?

A

Have greater longevity in the hair

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101
Q

What is the reparative complex?

A

Silica + Gemini Amphiphile

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102
Q

Silica + Gemini Amphiphile = What?

A

Reparative complex

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103
Q

What is Urban Defense Pro

A

Ingredient which protects the hair against the negative effects of pollution.

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104
Q

What particles does UDP prevent from entering the hair

A

UM10 particles

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105
Q

What particles are small enough to enter the hair

A

UM10 particles

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106
Q

What particles are small enough to enter the hair.

A

UM10 / PM10

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107
Q

What are PM10 particles able to do?

A

Enter the hair and damage the bonds of the keratin chain.

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108
Q

When PM10 particles enter the hair, what do they do?

A

Damage the bonds of the keratin chain

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109
Q

What hair type is particularly effected by PM10 / UM10 particles?

A

Damaged hair

110
Q

Why is damaged hair more susceptible to further damage from UM 10 /PM10 particles.

A

Because the cuticle is open and the particles can penetrate the hair easily

111
Q

If the cuticle is open, what does this allow micro particles to do?

A

Penetrate the hair VERY EASILY

112
Q

How does UDP work?

A

Forms a protective shield around the hair to prevent particles from entering the hair.

113
Q

What is the main focus when presenting the SDL Reconstruction slide?

A

It is an “antibiotic” for the hair. Not a lifelong product.

114
Q

Is SDL reconstruction a lifelong product?

A

No

115
Q

Why is SDL Reconstruction not a lifelong product?

A

Exceptionally high in Active ingredients. Can over proteinize the hair and make it brittle.

116
Q

What about SDL Reconstruction allows it to target Structural damage

A

High active ingredient content.

117
Q

What is step one on the hair repair journey?

A

SDL Reconstruction

118
Q

For a hair to be healthy it has to be strong and flexible. Where do these characteristics live within the layers of the hair?

A

Strength - cortex

Flexibility = hydration in the lipid cement layer.

119
Q

What does the comb-ability test determine in the hair?

A

Flexibility and moisture content.

120
Q

CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio can create what?

A

Damage

121
Q

Why could CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio create damage?

A

Because the hair is flooded with oxygen.

122
Q

What does a generic care formula conceal in the hair?

A

Damage

123
Q

What does a generic hair formula do for the hair?

A

Provides maintenance

124
Q

What must the stylist do when using SDL Reconstruction?

A

Prescribe and monitor the health of the hair between visits.

125
Q

What must be monitored in between visits to the salon

A

The health of the hair.

126
Q

Once a clients hair has been reconstructed, what happens in regards to prescribed hair care?

A

Graduate them to the moisture line (second step in hair repair journey)

127
Q

What is slide 9?

A

SDL Moisture

128
Q

What are the main talking points listed in slide 9 ?

A

-For hydration
-Honey Sugars
- Concentrated formula
- UDP

129
Q

What is step 2 in the hair repair journey?

A

Replenish the moisture level of the hair.

130
Q

Can hair be damaged without being dry?

A

No

131
Q

What two product lines need a prescription by the stylist??

A

Reconstruction and Moisture

132
Q

How do you determine if the hair needs the moisture line?

A

Combability test

133
Q

What does the Combability test define?

A

How dehydrated the hair is.

134
Q

Is Semi di lino Moisture a lifelong product?

A

No

135
Q

Why isn’t semi di lino moisture a lifelong product?

A

Because of its concentrated formula.

136
Q

How long should semi di lino moisture be used when prescribed to a client.

A

As needed.

137
Q

What are the active ingredients in Semi Di Lino Moisture

A

Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose

138
Q

Why are glucose , fructose, and sucrose used in semi di lino moisture?

A

They have a molecular structure that are similar to water and draw moisture into the hair.

139
Q

Because glucose fructose and sucrose have a molecular structure similar to water, what does this do?

A

Draws moisture into the hair.

140
Q

What 4 active ingredients get talked about when talking about SDL Moisture?

A

Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose Urban defense pro

141
Q

In speaking to the lipid cement layer what effect from UM10 pollution particles have on the hair?

A

Significant negative effect on the lipid bonds in the hair.

142
Q

What do a slide 10?

A

SDL - the lifelong products

143
Q

What are the main talking points when discussing slide 10?

A
  • Reconstruction and moisture are considered anti biotic for the hair
  • Once repair has occurred we need to protect the hair
144
Q

What does preparing the hair for color consist of?

A

Recommending the correct care program.

145
Q

Once the hair has been correctly prepared for color by reconstructing and moisturizing what is to be done in relation to hair care?

A

Maintain and protect it.

146
Q

What are the lifelong lines in Semi Di Lino?

A
  • Diamond
  • Sublime
  • Curl
  • volume
  • smoothing
147
Q

What was the sublime line created for ?

A

To encompass products that are suitable for All hair types.

148
Q

What is slide 11?

A

Two cross sections of hair talking about the matter in the hair.

149
Q

What is the example given for measurement of fine hair on slide 11

A

1 mm diameter, 12 pigment molecules fit into fine hair

2mm diameter coarse hair fits 40 molecules.

150
Q

What is the example given for the measurement on slide 11?

A

1mm & 2mm

151
Q

How many pigment molecules do we demonstrate fit into a fine hair.

A

12

152
Q

What is the example given for the measurement in coarse hair?

A

2mm

153
Q

How many pigments molecules do we demonstrate “fit” into the hair?

A

13 and 40

154
Q

What is the point being made with the diagram of fine hair with 12 pigment molecules vs. coarse hair with 40 pigment molecules?

A

The difference between fine hair and coarse hair. = less matter vs. more matter.

155
Q

Why are we making the distinction of fine hair has less matter vs coarse hair having more?

A

-It is easier to lighten fine hair.
- It is easier to color fiber hair

156
Q

Why is it easier to lighten fine hair

A

Because there is less matter to break down, less pigment to lift out.

157
Q

Why is it harder to lighten coarse hair?

A

Because there is more matter to break down, more pigment to lift out.

158
Q

Why is it easier to color fine hair?

A

Because you don’t require so much pigment to fill it.

159
Q

What slide 12?

A

Naturally occurring pigments

160
Q

What are the listed talking points about slide 12?

A
  • Eumelanin
    Large black brown molecules
    Responsible for depth
    Easy to remove
  • Pheomelanin
    Small/medium orange-yellow molecules.
    Difficult to remove
161
Q

What type of pigments does hair contain?

A

Eumelanin

Pheomelanin

162
Q

Why do we stress the unimportance of thinking of haircolor in Eumelanin and Pheomelanin?

A

Because it’s only useful for a biochemist to think of these things.

163
Q

What do we think of about defining haircolor instead of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin ?

A

Blue, Red and yellow

164
Q

What are the main points when talking about pigments?

A

-Fine hair contains less matter than coarse hair
-it’s easier to lighten fine hair because there is less matter to break down
- it’s easier to color fine hair.

165
Q

What are the types of melanin mentioned on the naturally occurring pigments slide

A
  • Eumelanin
  • Pheomelanin
166
Q

What size are Eumelanin molecules?

A

Large

167
Q

What color are Eumelanin molecules?

A

Black / brown

168
Q

What are Eumelanin molecules responsible for ?

A

Depth

169
Q

Are Eumelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?

A

Easy

170
Q

What size are Pheomelanin molecules?

A

Small / medium

171
Q

What color are pheomelanin molecules?

A

Orange - yellow

172
Q

Are pheomelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?

A

Hard

173
Q

What size are the yellow color molecules in the hair?

A

Small

174
Q

How much yellow molecules are in the hair?

A

A lot

175
Q

What size are red molecules??

A

Medium

176
Q

How much red molecules are in the hair ?

A

Moderate

177
Q

What size are blue molecules?

A

Large

178
Q

How much blue molecules are in the hair?

A

A small amount.

179
Q

What molecules are easiest to remove?

A

Blue

180
Q

What color molecules are hardest to remove?

A

Yellow

181
Q

What is the box analogy?

A
  • 2 rooms, same size
  • 3 large boxes in one room
  • 100 small boxes in the next room
  • which room takes longer to empty?
182
Q

What slide do the primary color molecules get talked about on?

A

Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)

183
Q

What slide is the box analogy discussed on?

A

Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)

184
Q

What is orange?

A

A combination of red and yellow.

185
Q

Is orange forums in the hair?

A

No

186
Q

What does pm 10 mean?

A

Particulate matter 10 microns or smaller

187
Q

What does in um 10 mean ?

A

Ultra microscopic 10 microns or smaller

188
Q

How many microns are in a millimeter?

A

1000

189
Q

If pollutant molecules were 10 microns, how many of said molecules would fit in a milliliter?

A

100

190
Q

What is the common idea discussed on slides 13,14, 15 and 16?

A

Distribution of pigments

191
Q

What is discussed on slide 13?

A

Distribution of pigments:
- Client with red hair
- lots of red and yellow pigments in the hair
- fewer blue
- all three exist but the proportions change

192
Q

What is the haircolor example on slide 13?

A

Red

193
Q

What is discussed on slide 14?

A

Distribution of pigments :
- a lot of yellow pigments
- fewer red pigments
- very few blue
-all exist but in different proportions

194
Q

What is the haircolor example on slide 14?

A

Natural 10 blonde

195
Q

What is discussed on slide 15?

A

Distribution of pigments:
- very dark hair.
- even distribution of pigments
- dominancy towards red, then blue
- blue responsible for depth
- more blue means more depth

196
Q

What is the haircolor example on slide 15?

A

Very dark hair

197
Q

What primary molecule is responsible for depth.

A

Blue

198
Q

What is discussed on slide 16?

A
  • Level 10 blonde
    -still see all primary pigments
  • significantly reduced amount of pigments in the hair .
199
Q

What is the hair color example on slide 16?

A

Level 10, platinum blonde.

200
Q

If a client has red hair, what primary molecule is there most of?

A

Red

201
Q

If a client has red hair, how much blue molecules are in the hair?

A

Few

202
Q

If a client has natural blonde hair, what primary pigment molecule is there most of ?

A

Yellow

203
Q

If a client has natural blonde hair , what primary pigment molecule is there least can of?

A

Blue.

204
Q

What size is the blue molecule and what is it responsible for?

A

Large and responsible for depth

205
Q

What is the distribution of pigments in dark hair?

A

More or less Even distribution with a slight dominancy towards red then blue.

206
Q

In dark hair , what is there a slight dominancy towards ??

A

Red

207
Q

Because dark hair has a slight dominancy towards red, what does it mean when lightening?

A

More warmth in the initial stages of lightening.

208
Q

What pigments are present on a bleached platinum blonde?

A

All three primary pigments

209
Q

What can be said about the quantity of pigments on a bleached platinum blonde

A

Significantly less quantity of pigments.

210
Q

What are the states of the hair that have a relationship?

A

Porous - Normal- Resistant

211
Q

What are often blamed for problems causing poor color outcomes?

A

Porosity and resistance

212
Q

If porosity and resistance are not the problem of a bad color outcome what might it be?

A

The formula

213
Q

What can porosity be a function of?

A

The hair being damaged
Or
It can grow out of the scalp this way
Or
Some types of grey hair

214
Q

Can hair grow porous?

A

Yes.

215
Q

What can porosity be a function of?

A
  • Hair being damaged
216
Q

If hair is porous does it automatically mean that it’s damaged?

A

No

217
Q

What ethnic group typically grow porous hair?

A

Middle eastern

218
Q

What color/type of hair can porosity naturally exist in?

A

Grey / white

219
Q

Is resistant a state in which the hair grows?

A

Yes

220
Q

Other than porous, what other states can hair grow out of the scalp?

A

Normal and resistant.

221
Q

Is grey hair always resistant?

A

No.

222
Q

What does resistance get blamed for?

A

Formulation failures

223
Q

In the normal distribution curve, what does normal mean?

A

Most frequently occurring

224
Q

Why must we be aware of what normal is on the “ normal distribution curve “?

A

For timing processes

225
Q

What happens when .35 Gm and .32 Gv pigments are mixed with blonde /put on lighter levels?

A

Their behavior changes.

226
Q

Why are the quantities of pigments recommended?

A

To ensure nothing scary happens and ensure you see the effect.

227
Q

What do the recommended pigment quantities ensure?

A

That you see the effect.

228
Q

Can you work outside of the recommended pigment recommendations?

A

Yes.

229
Q

If you work outside of the reccommended pigment amounts what must you understand?

A

The outcomes.

230
Q

What are Br, Rc, and Gb designed to do?

A

Maintain their corresponding EOC/CW tones.

231
Q

What is an important point of Gb?

A

Use in greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades.

232
Q

Why should Gb pigments be used In Greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades

A

Because it is light.

233
Q

What are 3 important point ls about.21 Va Pigments recommended on levels 8-10?

A
  • recommended on levels 8-10
  • Reduces yellow,
  • Not purple
234
Q

What pigment shade reduces yellow but is not a strong purple?

A

.21 Va

235
Q

What are 3 important point to make about .13 Ag Pigments?

A
  • recommended on levels 7-10
  • very light brown beige
  • cooling effect
236
Q

What pigments are a very light beige brown?

A

.13 Ag

237
Q

What pigment has a cooling effect?

A

.13 Ag

238
Q

What is an important point to make about .3 Gd pigments 5-7?

A

Really strong on levels 8 -10

239
Q

What pigment tone is really strong at levels 8 - 10

A

Gold

240
Q

What is an important point to make about .4 copper pigments 5-8?

A

Orange doesn’t exist at levels 9 and 10

241
Q

What levels doesn’t orange exist at?

A

9 and 10

242
Q

What are two important points about working with .1 Ah blue pigments

A

Reduce orange in levels 3-7
Green on levels 8, 9 and 10

243
Q

What pigment color reduces/neutralizes orange on levels 3 - 7 ?

A

. 1 Ah

244
Q

What does .1 Ah blue pigment do on levels 8, 9, and 10?

A

Make green

245
Q

Where does correcting, preparing the canvas start?

A

In the consultation

246
Q

What is the main advantage of pigments?

A

The colorist chooses the longevity because of what it gets mixed with.

247
Q

How do you choose the longevity of pigments?

A

By what it gets mixed with.

248
Q

Are .13 pigments and .13 EOC3 the same?

A

No

249
Q

What happens to .13 Ag pigments when mixed with oxidative dye?

A

Ot turns peachy in an oxidative dye.

250
Q

What pigments shade will turn “peachy” when mixed with oxidative dye ?

A

.13 Ag

251
Q

How does .13 behave in EOC3

A

Reduces orange , enhances gold.

252
Q

Because pigments are polarized, what does this mean?

A

That they can adapt to any environment.

253
Q

What Ph do keratin therapy smoothing treatments have?

A

Between 1 and 2.

254
Q

What Ph do treatments masks and conditioners have?

A

Between 4 and 5

255
Q

What Ph do shampoos have?

A

Between 5 and 6

256
Q

What Ph does water have?

A

7

257
Q

What Ph does Demi permanent have ?

A

Between 8 and 9

258
Q

What Ph does permanent color have?

A

Between 10 and 11

259
Q

What Ph do perms and relaxers have?

A

Between 12 and 13

260
Q

What else can pigments be mixed with that is not listed on the ph scale?

A

Styling products

261
Q

Asides from fine hair being easier to lighten, because there is less matter to break down, what other reason is it easier to lift out melanin residue?

A

Less pigment to lift out.

262
Q

Why should we be aware of the blue semi permanent dye molecule?

A

Because there’s no real way to remove it.

263
Q

What semi permanent molecule is there no real way of removing?

A

Blue

264
Q

What is the best solution for removing a blue semi permanent molecule from the hair?

A

Lighten to a pale blue then tone with EOC 3 9.04 + 10 vol 1:2

265
Q

When should the blue “removal” formula be used?

A

Only when necessary.

266
Q

When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 1-2 passes what does this indicate?

A

That it is healthy

267
Q

If the hair is diagnosed to be healthy when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?

A

1-2

268
Q

If the hair is diagnosed to be dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?

A

3-6

269
Q

If the hair is diagnosed to be very dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?

A

7 +

270
Q

When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 3-6 passes what does this indicate?

A

The hair is dry

271
Q

When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 7 + passes what does this indicate?

A

The hair is very dry

Master Colorist (5 decks)

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