Hair And Color Chemistry Flashcards
How many different representations of a cross section of hair is represented in the hair structure slide?
2
What are the differences between the two cross section of hair presented on the hair structure slide?
One is the commonly accepted
-cuticle
-cortex
-medulla
One is what we refer to at APM
-Cuticle
-lipid cement layer
-cortex
Why is the Alfaparf cross section of hair the preference for teaching?
The medulla is of no interest
The recognition of the lipid cement layer.
Does the medulla always exist?
No
Is the lipid cement layer a separate layer of the of the hair structure?
No
Is the lipid cement layer integral to the cortex?
Yes
What does the lipid cement layer allow us to recognize and analyze?
The difference between
a.) Damaged: structure
b.) Damaged: Dry
What do we ask the group before we present slide 3 the hair structure slide?
What are the three layers of the hair and their functions?
What is the opening question to start the class?
What was the first piece of hair science that you learned when you were training to become a hairdresser? OR What was the first piece of hair science that you were taught?
Why do we ignore the medulla?
Because it has no true function.
What is the importance of the lipid cement layer?
Allows for us to recognize and analyze the difference between damaged dry or damaged structure.
What is the purpose of the medulla?
No true purpose
What answers are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cortex?
- cosmetic pigments
-natural pigments - Protein / Keratin
- Strength information about the hair.
What answer are we looking for when building the hair structure list and the functions of the cuticle?
- the protective layer of the hair.
What is the purpose of building the hair structure slide and the functions of each traditionally identified layers of the hair?
To introduce and separate the APM representation.
What are the main ideas listed on the cortex slide?
- polypeptide chain
-healthy / damaged hair
-the bonds
What idea about protein is discussed when presenting the cortex slide?
Protein is not one thing.
Is protein one thing?
No
What do amino acids group together to create?
Peptides
What do peptides group together to make?
Polypeptides
What do polypeptides group together to become?
Protein
Where is “all of the work done” in the hair?
Cortex
What is a protein?
A complex biological structure that we can manipulate.
What are polypeptides held together with?
Some interesting bonds
What main ideas are listed on the slide that has two polypeptide chains with the bonds connecting them?
Hydrogen Bond
Ionic bond
Sulfur bridge
What is discussed on slide 5?
The bonds
What can be said about hydrogen bonds?
Weak, broken by water
What can be said about Ionic bonds?
Also weak, broken by a mild chemical such as shampoo.
When talking about curly to straight blow drying, what change is being discussed
Alfa keratin to beta keratin
What keratin is presenting itself when the hair is in its natural shape.
Alfa keratin
What keratin is presenting itself when the hair has been temporary changed?
Beta keratin
When the hair is re-wet after being styled and it returns to it’s natural state what is this due to?
The sulfur bridge.
Where is the memory of the hair contained?
The sulfur bridge
What gives the hair its identity?
The sulfur bridge
What question is asked after presenting slide 4 before presenting slide 5
How do I test for elasticity?
What should the state of the hair be in when performing an elasticity test?
Wet
Why is the elasticity test done on wet hair?
Because we break down the hydrogen and ionic bonds. We don’t care about them.
What action do hydrogen and ionic bonds provide to sulfur bonds?
Support
How many strands of hair should be used when performing an elasticity test?
3 - 5 , coarse -fine
Why isn’t 1 strand of hair recommended for an elasticity test?
Because it is not strong enough on its own and gives a false impression of damage.
Why is the range of elasticity done on 3-8 strands of hair?
Because one strand alone will give a false impression of damage.
When performing a strand test what are you looking for?
A point of resistance.
If hair is weak, what characteristic will it have
Little resistance
If hair is strong, what characteristic will it have?
More resistance
If hair has little resistance what is that telling us about the sulphur bridge?
That few of them are in tact.
If hair has a lot of resistance, what is this telling us about the sulfur bridge?
There are a lot of them intact.
What are the main talking points listed on slide 6 , Lipid Cement Layer.
- The importance of hydration
- How it effects the behavior in of the cuticle
- Combabilty test
How do we describe glass?
Strong and brittle
What happens if you drop an object made of glass?
Shatters and breaks
Why does glass break if it is dropped?
Because it is brittle
What is a way to explain brittle
Strength without flexibility
What does the hair have to be in order to be considered healthy?
Strong and flexible
What is the function of the lipid cement layer?
Hydration
When the lipid cement layer is well hydrated, what can we compare it to?
An inflated balloon.
What do we compare to an inflated balloon?
A well hydrated lipid cement layer.
A well hydrated lipid cement layer and an inflated ballon have what in common ?
A smooth surface
If the lipid cement layer a smooth, what does this allow the cuticle to do?
Lay smoothly around the surface of the cortex.
What is the lipid cement layer like when it’s dehydrated??
A deflated balloon.
If the lipid cement layer is dehydrated what characteristic does the surface have?
Irregular
What happens to the cuticle layer when the lipid cement layer is irregular?
It is forced open
What does the combabilty test tell us about ?
Hydration.
How do you prepare the hair for a combability test?
1.) Wash the hair with shampoo (no conditioner)
2.) gently towel dry
3.) choose a section of hair to detangle
How is the combability test done after the hair has been shampooed and towel dried?
By detangling a section of the hair.
If you have to comb the hair 1-2 times to detangle, what is this telling me about the hair?
The cuticle is closed , and the hair is healthy.
If you have to comb the hair 3-6 times what is this telling me about the hair?
That the cuticle is forced open and the hair is dry.
If you have to comb through the hair 7 + times what is this telling me about the hair?
That the cuticle is really forced open and the hair is very dry.
What is on slide 7?
Diagnosis axis
What is master colorist not just about?
The formula in the bowl
What is the master colorist program?
A holistic approach to hair color.
What do artists do before painting?
Prep their canvas
What do we as hair artists prep?
The hair
What does the hair diagnosis matrix allow for?
To understand how to recommend the correct care program for our client.
What is the journey we follow when repairing the hair?
From very damaged to very dry and through to healthy.
Can hair be damaged without being dry?
No
Why can’t hair be damaged without being dry?
Because damage happens from the outside in.
In what order is the hair structure damaged?
1.) cuticle
2.) lipid cement layer
3.) cortex
What metaphor is used to describe the protective layer of the hair and how it’s attacked?
Soldiers
What gets introduced after talking about the Diagnosis matrix?
Semi di lino
Why is SDL particular?
Each line has a totally unique formula
What is not a common method of manufacturing a care line?
Make a generic batch then add the active ingredients.
Because SDL is so targeted to heal problems of the hair what does it rely heavily on?
Diagnosis and recommendation by the stylist.
What does slide 8 talk about?
SDL Reconstruction
What are the key points on slide 8 “SDL reconstruction?
- Concentrated formula
- Rich in Silica - strength and resistance
- UDP
What amino acids make up the peptide in SDL reconstruction?
Glutamic acid
lysine acid
Lauric acid
How are the peptides in SDL reconstruction organized?
(Glutamic acid - lysine acid - glutamic acid ) joined to two chains of fatty acids called lauric acid
What does the peptide in SDL Reconstruction have an affinity to?
Water
What does the peptide in SDL reconstruction provide to the cortex?
Repair
What is attached to the outside of the peptide in SDL Reconstruction?
Lauric acid chains
What are the active ingredients in SDL Reconstruction?
Silica
Gemini Amphiphile
What is SDL rich in?
Silica
What is silica sourced from??
Bamboo
What is bamboo known for?
Strength
What does silica provide to the hair?
Support and strength
What is the peptide in SDL Reconstruction called?
Gemini Amphiphile
What is the Gemini Amphiphile made of??
Glutamic acid - Lysine acid and Lauric acid
What is the Gemini Amphiphile joined to?
Two Lauric acid chains
What does the Gemini Amphiphile do?
Reinforces the keratin chain by binding into the lipid cement layer.
What is Lauric acid?
A fatty acid
What does Lauric acid do?
Binds into the lipid cement layer.
Because Lauric acid can bind into the lipid cement layer, what does this allow the Gemini Amphiphile to do?
Have greater longevity in the hair
What is the reparative complex?
Silica + Gemini Amphiphile
Silica + Gemini Amphiphile = What?
Reparative complex
What is Urban Defense Pro
Ingredient which protects the hair against the negative effects of pollution.
What particles does UDP prevent from entering the hair
UM10 particles
What particles are small enough to enter the hair
UM10 particles
What particles are small enough to enter the hair.
UM10 / PM10
What are PM10 particles able to do?
Enter the hair and damage the bonds of the keratin chain.
When PM10 particles enter the hair, what do they do?
Damage the bonds of the keratin chain
What hair type is particularly effected by PM10 / UM10 particles?
Damaged hair
Why is damaged hair more susceptible to further damage from UM 10 /PM10 particles.
Because the cuticle is open and the particles can penetrate the hair easily
If the cuticle is open, what does this allow micro particles to do?
Penetrate the hair VERY EASILY
How does UDP work?
Forms a protective shield around the hair to prevent particles from entering the hair.
What is the main focus when presenting the SDL Reconstruction slide?
It is an “antibiotic” for the hair. Not a lifelong product.
Is SDL reconstruction a lifelong product?
No
Why is SDL Reconstruction not a lifelong product?
Exceptionally high in Active ingredients. Can over proteinize the hair and make it brittle.
What about SDL Reconstruction allows it to target Structural damage
High active ingredient content.
What is step one on the hair repair journey?
SDL Reconstruction
For a hair to be healthy it has to be strong and flexible. Where do these characteristics live within the layers of the hair?
Strength - cortex
Flexibility = hydration in the lipid cement layer.
What does the comb-ability test determine in the hair?
Flexibility and moisture content.
CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio can create what?
Damage
Why could CWC + 20 vol in a 1:3 mixing ratio create damage?
Because the hair is flooded with oxygen.
What does a generic care formula conceal in the hair?
Damage
What does a generic hair formula do for the hair?
Provides maintenance
What must the stylist do when using SDL Reconstruction?
Prescribe and monitor the health of the hair between visits.
What must be monitored in between visits to the salon
The health of the hair.
Once a clients hair has been reconstructed, what happens in regards to prescribed hair care?
Graduate them to the moisture line (second step in hair repair journey)
What is slide 9?
SDL Moisture
What are the main talking points listed in slide 9 ?
-For hydration
-Honey Sugars
- Concentrated formula
- UDP
What is step 2 in the hair repair journey?
Replenish the moisture level of the hair.
Can hair be damaged without being dry?
No
What two product lines need a prescription by the stylist??
Reconstruction and Moisture
How do you determine if the hair needs the moisture line?
Combability test
What does the Combability test define?
How dehydrated the hair is.
Is Semi di lino Moisture a lifelong product?
No
Why isn’t semi di lino moisture a lifelong product?
Because of its concentrated formula.
How long should semi di lino moisture be used when prescribed to a client.
As needed.
What are the active ingredients in Semi Di Lino Moisture
Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose
Why are glucose , fructose, and sucrose used in semi di lino moisture?
They have a molecular structure that are similar to water and draw moisture into the hair.
Because glucose fructose and sucrose have a molecular structure similar to water, what does this do?
Draws moisture into the hair.
What 4 active ingredients get talked about when talking about SDL Moisture?
Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose Urban defense pro
In speaking to the lipid cement layer what effect from UM10 pollution particles have on the hair?
Significant negative effect on the lipid bonds in the hair.
What do a slide 10?
SDL - the lifelong products
What are the main talking points when discussing slide 10?
- Reconstruction and moisture are considered anti biotic for the hair
- Once repair has occurred we need to protect the hair
What does preparing the hair for color consist of?
Recommending the correct care program.
Once the hair has been correctly prepared for color by reconstructing and moisturizing what is to be done in relation to hair care?
Maintain and protect it.
What are the lifelong lines in Semi Di Lino?
- Diamond
- Sublime
- Curl
- volume
- smoothing
What was the sublime line created for ?
To encompass products that are suitable for All hair types.
What is slide 11?
Two cross sections of hair talking about the matter in the hair.
What is the example given for measurement of fine hair on slide 11
1 mm diameter, 12 pigment molecules fit into fine hair
2mm diameter coarse hair fits 40 molecules.
What is the example given for the measurement on slide 11?
1mm & 2mm
How many pigment molecules do we demonstrate fit into a fine hair.
12
What is the example given for the measurement in coarse hair?
2mm
How many pigments molecules do we demonstrate “fit” into the hair?
13 and 40
What is the point being made with the diagram of fine hair with 12 pigment molecules vs. coarse hair with 40 pigment molecules?
The difference between fine hair and coarse hair. = less matter vs. more matter.
Why are we making the distinction of fine hair has less matter vs coarse hair having more?
-It is easier to lighten fine hair.
- It is easier to color fiber hair
Why is it easier to lighten fine hair
Because there is less matter to break down, less pigment to lift out.
Why is it harder to lighten coarse hair?
Because there is more matter to break down, more pigment to lift out.
Why is it easier to color fine hair?
Because you don’t require so much pigment to fill it.
What slide 12?
Naturally occurring pigments
What are the listed talking points about slide 12?
- Eumelanin
Large black brown molecules
Responsible for depth
Easy to remove - Pheomelanin
Small/medium orange-yellow molecules.
Difficult to remove
What type of pigments does hair contain?
Eumelanin
Pheomelanin
Why do we stress the unimportance of thinking of haircolor in Eumelanin and Pheomelanin?
Because it’s only useful for a biochemist to think of these things.
What do we think of about defining haircolor instead of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin ?
Blue, Red and yellow
What are the main points when talking about pigments?
-Fine hair contains less matter than coarse hair
-it’s easier to lighten fine hair because there is less matter to break down
- it’s easier to color fine hair.
What are the types of melanin mentioned on the naturally occurring pigments slide
- Eumelanin
- Pheomelanin
What size are Eumelanin molecules?
Large
What color are Eumelanin molecules?
Black / brown
What are Eumelanin molecules responsible for ?
Depth
Are Eumelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?
Easy
What size are Pheomelanin molecules?
Small / medium
What color are pheomelanin molecules?
Orange - yellow
Are pheomelanin molecules easy or hard to remove from the hair?
Hard
What size are the yellow color molecules in the hair?
Small
How much yellow molecules are in the hair?
A lot
What size are red molecules??
Medium
How much red molecules are in the hair ?
Moderate
What size are blue molecules?
Large
How much blue molecules are in the hair?
A small amount.
What molecules are easiest to remove?
Blue
What color molecules are hardest to remove?
Yellow
What is the box analogy?
- 2 rooms, same size
- 3 large boxes in one room
- 100 small boxes in the next room
- which room takes longer to empty?
What slide do the primary color molecules get talked about on?
Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)
What slide is the box analogy discussed on?
Naturally occurring pigments (slide 12)
What is orange?
A combination of red and yellow.
Is orange forums in the hair?
No
What does pm 10 mean?
Particulate matter 10 microns or smaller
What does in um 10 mean ?
Ultra microscopic 10 microns or smaller
How many microns are in a millimeter?
1000
If pollutant molecules were 10 microns, how many of said molecules would fit in a milliliter?
100
What is the common idea discussed on slides 13,14, 15 and 16?
Distribution of pigments
What is discussed on slide 13?
Distribution of pigments:
- Client with red hair
- lots of red and yellow pigments in the hair
- fewer blue
- all three exist but the proportions change
What is the haircolor example on slide 13?
Red
What is discussed on slide 14?
Distribution of pigments :
- a lot of yellow pigments
- fewer red pigments
- very few blue
-all exist but in different proportions
What is the haircolor example on slide 14?
Natural 10 blonde
What is discussed on slide 15?
Distribution of pigments:
- very dark hair.
- even distribution of pigments
- dominancy towards red, then blue
- blue responsible for depth
- more blue means more depth
What is the haircolor example on slide 15?
Very dark hair
What primary molecule is responsible for depth.
Blue
What is discussed on slide 16?
- Level 10 blonde
-still see all primary pigments - significantly reduced amount of pigments in the hair .
What is the hair color example on slide 16?
Level 10, platinum blonde.
If a client has red hair, what primary molecule is there most of?
Red
If a client has red hair, how much blue molecules are in the hair?
Few
If a client has natural blonde hair, what primary pigment molecule is there most of ?
Yellow
If a client has natural blonde hair , what primary pigment molecule is there least can of?
Blue.
What size is the blue molecule and what is it responsible for?
Large and responsible for depth
What is the distribution of pigments in dark hair?
More or less Even distribution with a slight dominancy towards red then blue.
In dark hair , what is there a slight dominancy towards ??
Red
Because dark hair has a slight dominancy towards red, what does it mean when lightening?
More warmth in the initial stages of lightening.
What pigments are present on a bleached platinum blonde?
All three primary pigments
What can be said about the quantity of pigments on a bleached platinum blonde
Significantly less quantity of pigments.
What are the states of the hair that have a relationship?
Porous - Normal- Resistant
What are often blamed for problems causing poor color outcomes?
Porosity and resistance
If porosity and resistance are not the problem of a bad color outcome what might it be?
The formula
What can porosity be a function of?
The hair being damaged
Or
It can grow out of the scalp this way
Or
Some types of grey hair
Can hair grow porous?
Yes.
What can porosity be a function of?
- Hair being damaged
If hair is porous does it automatically mean that it’s damaged?
No
What ethnic group typically grow porous hair?
Middle eastern
What color/type of hair can porosity naturally exist in?
Grey / white
Is resistant a state in which the hair grows?
Yes
Other than porous, what other states can hair grow out of the scalp?
Normal and resistant.
Is grey hair always resistant?
No.
What does resistance get blamed for?
Formulation failures
In the normal distribution curve, what does normal mean?
Most frequently occurring
Why must we be aware of what normal is on the “ normal distribution curve “?
For timing processes
What happens when .35 Gm and .32 Gv pigments are mixed with blonde /put on lighter levels?
Their behavior changes.
Why are the quantities of pigments recommended?
To ensure nothing scary happens and ensure you see the effect.
What do the recommended pigment quantities ensure?
That you see the effect.
Can you work outside of the recommended pigment recommendations?
Yes.
If you work outside of the reccommended pigment amounts what must you understand?
The outcomes.
What are Br, Rc, and Gb designed to do?
Maintain their corresponding EOC/CW tones.
What is an important point of Gb?
Use in greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades.
Why should Gb pigments be used In Greater quantities when mixing with color to make silver shades
Because it is light.
What are 3 important point ls about.21 Va Pigments recommended on levels 8-10?
- recommended on levels 8-10
- Reduces yellow,
- Not purple
What pigment shade reduces yellow but is not a strong purple?
.21 Va
What are 3 important point to make about .13 Ag Pigments?
- recommended on levels 7-10
- very light brown beige
- cooling effect
What pigments are a very light beige brown?
.13 Ag
What pigment has a cooling effect?
.13 Ag
What is an important point to make about .3 Gd pigments 5-7?
Really strong on levels 8 -10
What pigment tone is really strong at levels 8 - 10
Gold
What is an important point to make about .4 copper pigments 5-8?
Orange doesn’t exist at levels 9 and 10
What levels doesn’t orange exist at?
9 and 10
What are two important points about working with .1 Ah blue pigments
Reduce orange in levels 3-7
Green on levels 8, 9 and 10
What pigment color reduces/neutralizes orange on levels 3 - 7 ?
. 1 Ah
What does .1 Ah blue pigment do on levels 8, 9, and 10?
Make green
Where does correcting, preparing the canvas start?
In the consultation
What is the main advantage of pigments?
The colorist chooses the longevity because of what it gets mixed with.
How do you choose the longevity of pigments?
By what it gets mixed with.
Are .13 pigments and .13 EOC3 the same?
No
What happens to .13 Ag pigments when mixed with oxidative dye?
Ot turns peachy in an oxidative dye.
What pigments shade will turn “peachy” when mixed with oxidative dye ?
.13 Ag
How does .13 behave in EOC3
Reduces orange , enhances gold.
Because pigments are polarized, what does this mean?
That they can adapt to any environment.
What Ph do keratin therapy smoothing treatments have?
Between 1 and 2.
What Ph do treatments masks and conditioners have?
Between 4 and 5
What Ph do shampoos have?
Between 5 and 6
What Ph does water have?
7
What Ph does Demi permanent have ?
Between 8 and 9
What Ph does permanent color have?
Between 10 and 11
What Ph do perms and relaxers have?
Between 12 and 13
What else can pigments be mixed with that is not listed on the ph scale?
Styling products
Asides from fine hair being easier to lighten, because there is less matter to break down, what other reason is it easier to lift out melanin residue?
Less pigment to lift out.
Why should we be aware of the blue semi permanent dye molecule?
Because there’s no real way to remove it.
What semi permanent molecule is there no real way of removing?
Blue
What is the best solution for removing a blue semi permanent molecule from the hair?
Lighten to a pale blue then tone with EOC 3 9.04 + 10 vol 1:2
When should the blue “removal” formula be used?
Only when necessary.
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 1-2 passes what does this indicate?
That it is healthy
If the hair is diagnosed to be healthy when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
1-2
If the hair is diagnosed to be dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
3-6
If the hair is diagnosed to be very dry when performing a Combability test, how many passes will the comb have made to determine the outcome?
7 +
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 3-6 passes what does this indicate?
The hair is dry
When performing a Combability test and the hair can be combed through in 7 + passes what does this indicate?
The hair is very dry
