Color Correction Flashcards

1
Q

What is the prompt given to the group that opens up MC III, Color correction?

A

Ask the group to define color correction.

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2
Q

“A service that changes a cosmetic color result on the hair to a different cosmetic result”, is the definition of what?

A

Color correction

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3
Q

Banding and color buildup are ________ that should be solved by color correction.

A

Problems

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4
Q

What is considered “a regular” service?

A

Maintaining what already exists on the hair.

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5
Q

Maintaining what already exists on the hair is considered what type of service?

A

A regular service.

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6
Q

Banding and color buildup are problems that should be solved by ______ correction.

A

Color

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7
Q

How is color correction different from a regular service?

A

Color correction changes the existing cosmetic result to a different cosmetic result while a regular service maintains the existing result.

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8
Q

What are the 3 ideas listed on the consultation for color correction slide??

A

-Listen then ask

-Use of images

  • Target shades
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9
Q
  • Listen then ask
  • Use of images
  • Target shades , are all the main talking points of what MC III slide?
A

3

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10
Q

What is the recommendation about time when performing a consultation?

A

Spend TIME talking about consultation. (You the teacher)

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11
Q

How many color correction clients are there?

A

3

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12
Q

An existing client who was happy with her haircolor, A client who has colored her hair herself, and a client who is unhappy with her color result are 3 types of what?

A

Color correction clients.

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13
Q

What type of color correction client contributes to a positive color correction experience?

A

An existing client who was happy with their haircolor and has decided they want a change.

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14
Q

Why would an existing client who was happy with their last haircolor become a color correction client?

A

They have decided that they want to change their color.

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15
Q

Why is a color correction performed on a client who was happy with their last hair color but wants a change a positive experience?

A

Because it is done out of desire rather than necessity.

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16
Q

Why do permanent colors have an opposite action of what we want to achieve if we are re-pigmenting?

A

Because they lighten the hair.

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17
Q

When re-pigmenting the hair, we only want to ________ color.

A

Deposit

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18
Q

The _______ charged environment of bleached hair , repel the negatively charged molecules of __________color.

A

Negatively

Permanent

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19
Q

Why would permanent color deteriorate in a short time when applied to bleached hair?

A

Because the negatively charged molecules are repelled by the negatively charged environment.

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20
Q

How much time would it take for a color to deteriorate if using permanent color on bleached hair?

A

Short amount of time.

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21
Q

Will color look good on the day of using permanent color on bleached hair?

A

Yes

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22
Q

Why will color look great only on the day/ for a short time if using permanent color on bleached hair?

A

Because permanent dye molecules have a negative charge, the environment of bleached hair has a negative charge and negative and negative repel.

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23
Q

Do pigments have to be rinsed out of the hair after processing for re-pigmentation

A

Yes

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24
Q

Does the hair have to be dried before applying color after it’s been re-pigmented

A

Yes.

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25
What needs to be re-capped about what we learned in blonding about the environment of cosmetically lightened hair?
It has a negative electrostatic charge.
26
What 3 product families that color hair / decolorize hair create a negative electro static charge on the hair?
EOC PN BB BLEACH
27
If permanent colors are used for re-pigmentation, what problems can we create?
-Lightness in the hair - Color deterioration - Muddier color results
28
Lightness in the hair, deterioration of color , and muddy color results are all problems that can be created when re-pigmenting with what products?
Permanent colors.
29
Why would a permanent color appear muddier on bleached hair in comparison to other products?
30
Color wear has a high concentration of ____________ charged molecules?
Positively
31
T or F: Colorwear can be used to re-pigment hair?
True
32
Why would Color Wear give a good re-pigmentation result?
Because it has a high concentration of positively charged molecules.
33
Oxidation dyes can _________ the hair.
Lighten
34
T or F : Color Wear is an oxidation dye.
True
35
Why do oxidation dyes impact a final color result when coloring the hair darker?
Because the can lighten the hair.
36
When coloring the hair darker, oxidation dyes can very __________ impact the final color result.
Slightly
37
Pigments adapt to their ___________.
Environment
38
When pigments are mixed with water, they are a perfect ________ dye.
Direct
39
Why do pigments adapt to their environment?
Because they are polarized.
40
Why do pigments give the best “filling”?
Because they adapt to their environment.
41
Why do pigments adapt to their environment?
Because they are polarized
42
What is the anecdote when describing re-pigmentation w CW vs. H2O:pigments
The 1000 swatch example. 500 filled with CW & 500 filled with pigments and water
43
How many swatches are referenced in the anecdote about re-pigmentation with CW vs. Pigments?
1000
44
How many swatches are colored with CWC in the anecdote about re-pigmentation?
500
45
How many swatches are colored with pigments and water in the anecdote about re-pigmentation?
500
46
Why are the pigment swatches dipped into the pigment and water solution rather than painting with a brush in the re-pigmentation anecdote?
To speed up the process
47
How is the process of re-pigmentation sped up when using pigments/ CWC in the 1000 swatch anecdote?
The swatches are dipped into the color.
48
How many swatches are dipped into the CWC or pigments solution at a time to re-pigment them at a time?
1
49
Why are the 1000 swatches in the re-pigmentation scenario dipped instead of painted with a brush?
To speed up the process
50
Are the swatches that are re-pigmented dipped all at the same time or one by one?
One by one
51
What should be explored when a client who was happy with her hair color wants to change it?
The motivation for the change.
52
Why should the motivation for a color change be explored when an existing client was happy with their haircolor?
To make sure it’s a good change for them.
53
When is it especially important to explore the motivation of a client that was happy with their hair color but wants to change it
When the decision is s unexpected.
54
What should be talked through when a client who was happy with their hair wants to change their cosmetic color result to another?
The pros and cons of the decision
55
What should you be thorough about explaining in a color correction service?
Explaining what will happen during their service.
56
When explaining what will happen during the service how should that explanation be?
Thorough
57
What type of client is dependent on you to fix her own mess?
A client who has colored their own hair and has had a bad outcome.
58
A client who has colored their hair themself and has had a bad outcome is dependent on you to fix what?
Their own mess
59
A straightforward consultation will typically happen with what type of client?
A client that has colored their own hair and messed it up.
60
What type of color correction client Will question prices?
A client that has colored their hair themselves.
61
What should be offered to a color correction client that questions prices?
A selection of possible outcomes with their associated cost.
62
When should you offer a selection of possible outcomes with their associated costs to a color correction client?
When they question prices.
63
What type of client can create a difficult consultation experience?
A client who is unhappy with their color result.
64
A client who is unhappy with their hair, can create a ___________ consultation.
Difficult
65
What is the key action to do when you have a client who is unhappy with her color result?
LISTEN
66
Why is the key to listen to a client who doesn’t like her haircolor?
It allows them to work through any emotion as they need.
67
What should you allow a client who is unhappy with their haircolor to work through as they need?
Any emotions they are having.
68
When dealing with a client who is unhappy with her haircolor result ask questions to _______ your final picture.
Build
69
What do you do to build your final picture for a client who is unhappy with her haircolor result
Ask questions
70
What is it hard for clients to express?
Their needs in words.
71
Because it is hard for clients to express their needs in words what kind of questions should we ask?
Structured questions
72
Structured questions have options of what?
Answers
73
“Do you want to be brown, red or blonde”, is an example of what?
A structured sentence
74
What are two examples of structured questions?
1.) Do you want to be red, brown or blonde? 2.) Do you want to be one solid color or do you want to see lighter and darker colors?
75
What tool is valuable in all color change situations?
Pictures
76
What should be discussed about using pictures as a tool in consultations?
Problems of digital imaging (lighting)
77
Problems of digital images should be discussed when talking about the use of what consultation tool?
Digital images
78
What are problems with digital imaging?
Lighting Filters Psychology
79
“Do you want one solid color or do you want to see lighter and darker colors “ is an example of what kind of question?
A structured question
80
Target shades are defined by ________.
Number
81
Do you really want a target shade of .1 is a question to ask the class when talking about what?
Target shade
82
How many types of color correction problems are there?
4
83
What are the problems of color correction that need to be solved?
Too light Too dark Too warm Too cool
84
What are some examples of ideas that need to be rejected and re-classified into color correction problems?
Banding Color buildup Spotting Uneven colors
85
Color buildup, banding, spotting and uneven color are all examples of what?
Problems to be solved with color correction.
86
What should be considered when thinking about hair that is too light as a result of being cosmetically colored
Why is the hair too light?
87
“Why is the hair too light” is the thing we have to consider when thinking about hair that is too light as the result of what?
Being cosmetically colored
88
The questions (5) to ask ourselves when considering why is the hair is too light are what?
- Was it a bad formula? - has the client desire changed? - Is there a lot of color fade? - Has the client overexposed the hair to sunlight? - Is the client using the correct care products?
89
How many questions do we need to ask ourselves when considering why the hair is too light?
5
90
Was it a bad formula, has the client desire changed, is there a lot of color fade are the root questions when considering what?
Why is the hair too light?
91
What is a formula made of?
- Color choice -Oxido - timing - grey coverage (natural series) - Starting level
92
Color choice, natural level, Oxido, timing and grey coverage are all what?
Things that a formula is made of.
93
If the hair is cosmetically too light, it has arrived there through the use of what?
-permanent color - bleach
94
The use of color or the use of bleach are things that can make the hair cosmetically too _______.
Light
95
How is hair different when it is lightened by color vs. bleach?
-Colored hair is “fuller” in its appearance. -Bleached hair is hollow.
96
Bleached hair is ________ , whilst colored hair is ________ in its appearance.
- Hollow - Fuller
97
Hair that is lightened by bleach vs. hair that is lightened by color are different because why?
Bleached hollows out the hair by breaking down the melanin Colored hair oxidizes the melanin and it stays in the hair.
98
When asking the group what basic steps they would use to take lightened hair darker, what is the answer we are looking for from the group?
Re-pigment, then color.
99
Repigmentation then color are the basic steps to apply when doing what?
Taking lighter hair darker .
100
What is the rule of re-pigmentation? (Law of color)
You need to re-pigment the hair when you want to achieve a result that is more than two levels darker.
101
“You need to re-pigment when you want to achieve a result that is more than two levels darker that the current level”, Is the rule of what?
The rule of re-pigmentation
102
If the hair is lightened to a level 10 and I want a level 9 do I need to re-pigment?
No
103
If the hair is lightened to a level 8 and I want to achieve a 6 do I need to re-pigment?
No
104
If the hair is lightened to a 7 and I want to achieve a 4 do I have to re-pigment
Yes
105
When speaking to the group about the rules of re-pigmentation what should we ask them to confirm understanding?
- Do you agree with this rule? - Do you have any comments to make about it?
106
What would happen if I had a client where half of their hair is bleached to a 10 and the other half was colored to a 10 then I apply a 9.3 + 10 vol all over?
Uneven result
107
Why would the result be uneven if I applied a 9.3 on hair that half was lightened to a 10 with bleach and the other half was lightened to a 10 with color?
Because bleached hair is hollow.
108
The “new rule “ of re-pigmentation in relation to bleached hair is what?
If the hair is bleached, always re-pigment.
109
If the hair is __________, always re-pigment.
Bleached
110
When coloring one or two levels darker on un bleached hair, does the hair need to be filled?
No
111
What is the best choice of product to re-pigment the hair?
Pigments
112
When re-pigmenting the hair with pigments, what is it mixed with?
Water
113
What is the mixing ratio breakdown and rule for mixing pigments to re-pigment the hair?
H2O:Pigments Objective level + 1: 1g pigments
114
When re-pigmenting the hair , does it go on wet or dry hair?
Dry
115
The target level + 1 is what?
The formula to figure out how much water to use when creating your re-pigmentation formula.
116
How long are pigments mixed w H2O when re-pigmenting processed ?
5 minutes
117
What is the water to pigment ratio to re-pigment and achieve an objective level 4?
5:1
118
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 4?
5:1
119
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 5?
6:1
120
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 6
7:1
121
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 7?
8:1
122
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 8
9:1
123
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 9?
10:1
124
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 10?
11:1
125
What is the objective level if I am mixing water: pigments in a 6:1 ratio ?
5
126
2:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
1
127
3:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
2
128
4:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
3
129
5:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
4
130
6:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
5
131
7:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
6
132
8:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
7
133
9:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
8
134
10:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
9
135
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 1?
.6 Rd
136
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 2?
.6 Rd
137
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 3?
.6 Rd
138
What levels are .6 Rd pigments the only pigments recommended for re-pigmentation?
Levels 1, 2 & 3
139
Are the recommended pigment tones for re-pigmentation a hard rule?
No
140
What is the recommended pigment when wanting to achieve a neutral level 4?
.4 Cp
141
Cp pigments + H2O in a 5:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Neutral level 4
142
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a Red level 4?
.6 Rd
143
Rd pigments + H2O in a 5:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Red level 4
144
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a neutral level 5
.4 Cp
145
H2O + Cp pigments in a 6:1 ratio is s the recommendation to achieve what objectives when re-pigmenting the hair
Level 5 neutral result Level 5 copper result
146
H2O + rd pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Level 5 red result
147
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a copper result on a level 5?
.4 Cp
148
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a warm level 5?
.3 Gd
149
The swatches re-pigmented w CWC in the 1000 swatch exercise are all the same color after what?
After they have been processed, rinsed and dried.
150
What is the outcome of the CWC swatches that are processed, rinsed and dried?
They are all the same color.
151
Are the pigments swatches in the 1000 swatch exercise colored all at once or dipped one by one into the water + pigments solution
Dipped one by one
152
What are the 500 swatches not re-pigmented with CWC dipped into?
A bowl of Water mixed with red pigments.
153
A bowl of water mixed with red pigments is used to dip how many swatches into one by one to re-pigment
500
154
What happens as we continue to dip each of the 500 swatches that is dipped into a bowl that has H2O and .6 Rd pigments?
The swatches become lighter and lighter.
155
As more individual swatches are dipped in the water and .6 Rd pigments solution and they become lighter and lighter what color will they tend to?
Pink
156
Why does the water begin to come clearer and clearer when multiple swatches are re-pigmented with H2O + pigments in a bowl?
Because the hair soaks up all the possible pigment that it can take up.
157
What is the idea (main point) about the 1000 swatch re-pigmentation exercise?
That pigments will absorb into the hair however much the hair can take up and we have to control re-pigmentation with the mixing ratio.
158
One of the most interesting things about pigments is their _________ to adapt
Ability
159
One of the most _____________ things about pigments, is their ability to adapt.
Interesting
160
One of the most interesting things about pigments is their ability to ______.
Adapt
161
The hair will ________ all of the pigments that it needs in order to balance the hair fiber
Absorb
162
The hair will absorb all the __________ it needs in order to balance the hair fiber.
Pigments
163
The hair will absorb all the pigments that it needs in order to _________ the hair fiber
Balance
164
The ______ will ________ all the __________ it needs in order to _______ the hair fiber
-hair -absorb -pigments - balance
165
What will be released from the hair when rinsing pigments after the 5 minute processing time?
Any excess pigments
166
Why is rinsing pigments from the hair vital after it’s 5 minute processing time?
Because it will ensure the most even color outcome .
167
What will ensure the most even color outcome and give the hair the appearance of vitality in the re-pigmentation process with pigments.
Rinsing the pigments after 5 minutes
168
what re-pigmentation product will provide improved longevity over other products used for pigmentation?
Pigments
169
Rinsing pigments from the hair after processing will ensure what?
The most even color outcome
170
Rinsing the hair after 5 minutes when re-pigmenting with pigments will give the hair the appearance of what?
Vitality
171
Hair should be_____ after the re-pigmentation process, before applying the target shade.
Dried
172
T or F: color always goes on wet hair?
False
173
If I want an objective of level 1, what is the recommended re-pigmentation shade?
.6 Rd
174
What is the mixing ratio of water to pigments when the objective level is level 1?
2:1
175
What is the mixing ratio. Of water to pigments when the objective level is a level 2?
3:1
176
What is the mixing ratio of water to pigments when the objective level is a level 3?
4:1
177
What needs to re-capped when addressing and opening up the top dark section of color correction?
All of the ideas covered about bleaching in MC II, blonding.
178
What are the 4 main ideas about bleaching?
- Variables that effect lift - Which bleach? - Application Method - How long should I develop my bleach?
179
What are the variables that effect lift?
- Cosmetic color - mixing ratio - Peroxide - Processing time - starting color - texture
180
When re-capping the 4 ideas of bleaching, and talking about which bleach, what needs to be mentioned about bleach choice?
- Least aggressive - levels 4 and darker and hair with cosmetic color, use BB9 HIGH LIFT
181
When re-capping the ideas of bleaching and talking about application, what application methods are talked about?
-Foils -Freehand -Saturation
182
When talking about the 4 main ideas of bleaching and how long we should develop our bleach?
Develop to the top end of your target shade.
183
How should we encourage the group to participate in re-capping the ideas about bleaching?
Scaffold questions and guide them utilizing the flip chart.
184
What questions can be asked to scaffold and re-cap the ideas about bleaching?
- On bleaching day we talked about variables that affect lift, what are they? - What variables affect lift? - What 3 tools do we have to create lift? - When choosing bleach, how should we determine our formulation - Which peroxide should we choose? - which application keeps the bleach wet and retains heat? - If I have hair in foils and one is more heavily saturated than the other, what one will have the most lift? - How long should I develop my bleach?
185
In what instances would you bleach?
- When hair is too dark - big color changes.
186
What should be done to understand how well the hair will lighten?
Strand test
187
Why should a strand test be performed?
To understand how well the hair will lighten?
188
A strand test is useful in determining the reality of what?
Achieving an outcome
189
What are the variables that effect lift?
- cosmetic color present - mixing ratio - peroxide choice - processing time - starting color - texture
190
What is the acronym for to remember the variables that effect lift?
CMPPST
191
Using pigments allows us to control what?
Residual melanin
192
Using pigments allows us to control the residual _______ .
Melanin
193
Using pigments allows us to control the __________ melanin.
Residual
194
When using pigments to to control melanin residue what about it can be controlled?
Warmth
195
What is an example of using pigments to enhance warmth?
Bleached to orange but I want a red result.
196
What is an example of using pigments to control warmth?
I’ve achieved a yellow orange but but I want a cool result. Use Ag to reduce warmth.
197
What pigments shade is recommended to reduce warmth in the hair after lifting?
.13 Ag
198
Using Ag pigments to reduce warmth in the hair after lifting will create what?
A better foundation for a cooler result.
199
What pigment will create a better foundation for a cooler color result?
.13 Ag
200
What is the concept of dominancy?
Red is more dominant than orange, it’s a more powerful tone, orange is more dominant than yellow Blue dominates red
201
Red dominates what?
Orange and yellow
202
Red is a more ________ tone than orange.
Dominant
203
Why does red dominate orange?
Because it is a more powerful tone
204
Age will reduce what reflection?
Red.
205
If your desired result is in the soft copper or gold families and there is too much red after lifting, what will reduce that reflection?
.13 Ag pigments
206
Can a soft copper or gold be achieved if there is a lot of red in the hair?
No
207
When talking about the hair being too dark , what should be considered?
How much too dark?
208
What situations could mean that we need to make very small adjustments to the depth of our color result?
- Color build up - poor choice of peroxide in the original formula
209
Color build up and poor choice of peroxide are situations that very _______ adjustments could be needed to the depth of our color result.
Small
210
Can bleach be used for small color adjustments?
No.
211
Should bleach be used for small color changes?
No
212
What are the 3 methods to use for small color adjustments when the hair is too dark?
- Bleach shampoo - OOOSSS / OSP - Cleaning power of cube
213
Bleach shampoo, OOOSSS / OSP and the Cleaning Power of Cube are all methods to use for what?
Small adjustments to the depth of our color result.
214
What is the bleach shampoo formula?
75g 10 vol Oxido 25g BB7 10 g and shampoo
215
What is the process for using a bleach shampoo?
-apply to damp hair - Process visually
216
25g bleach + 75g 10 vol + 10g shampoo is the formula for what?
Bleach shampoo
217
Bleach shampoo gets applied to wet or dry hair?
Wet
218
How should a bleach shampoo be timed?
Visually
219
Will bleach shampoo provide lift to the hair?
Yes
220
Will the hair need to be toned after a bleach shampoo?
Yes
221
What is the formula when using OOOSSS/ OSP for small adjustments when the hair is too dark?
OOOSSS + Oxido 1:1.5 OSP + Oxido 1:2
222
When using OOOSSS/OSP for small adjustments when the hair is too dark, does it go on wet or dry hair?
Dry
223
What is the recommended pigment when filling for a cool level 5 result?
.13 AG
224
H2O: Gd pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when filling the hair?
Warm level 5
225
H2O : Ag pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation for filling to achieve what objective?
Cool level 5
226
At what level does the recommendation for a neutral result when re-pigmenting change from .4 Cp to .3 Gd?
At level 6
227
How is mixing pigments with water best done?
In a mouse maker
228
Why is the mousse maker the best way to apply pigments mixed with water?
It ensures that enough product is applied to the hair with a minimum mess.
229
To ensure enough product is applied to the hair with the least mess when re-pigmenting, use what tool?
Mousse maker
230
What two pigments can be mixed together to a slightly cool result?
Ag & Gd
231
What two pigments can be mixed together for a slightly cool result?
.13 Ag & .3 Gd
232
Ag & Gd pigments can be mixed together when re-pigmenting for a slightly _____ result.
Cool
233
Ag + Gd can be mixed together when re-pigmenting for a ________ cool result.
Slightly
234
What result will mixing Ag & Gd pigments together when re-pigmenting provide to the “melanin residue”
Slightly cool
235
2 pts Ag + 1 pt Gd pigments is the recommendation for repigmenting to achieve what result?
Slightly cool
236
What is the ratio recommendation when using Ag + Gd to re-pigment and wanting a slightly cool result?
2 pts.13 Ag + 1 pt .3 Gd
237
How much Ag pigments to Gd pigments is recommended when re-pigmenting for slightly cool results?
2:1
238
When talking about too dark and recapping the ideas of bleaching from MC II, what subjects should be talked about?
- Variables that effect lift - Which bleach -Which peroxide - which application method - Development time (how long should I develop)
239
When talking about too dark and re-capping the ideas of of bleaching fm MC II what subjects should be talked about?
-Variables that effect lift -What 3 tools do we have that create lift -When choosing bleach, how should we determine our formulation. -Which peroxide should we use? -which application method keeps the bleach wet and retains heat? -if I have hair in foils and one is more saturated than the other, what one will have better lift?
240
How is location of a strand test determined?
Where color is the darkest or is apparent that there is color buildup.
241
How big should the section for a strand test be?
1/2 inch by 2 or 3 inches
242
A section of a half an inch by 2 or 3 inches is used for what?
A strand test.
243
Where color buildup is most apparent or the color is the darkest, is the best place to perform what?
Strand test
244
What is used to perform a strand test?
Your chosen bleach formula and mixing ratio in a piece of foil.
245
When discussing your target for bleaching for a color correction what is the rule?
One level lighter than your target.
246
Two levels lighter than your target result when bleaching the hair in a color correction service will allow for what?
A cool result.
247
One level lighter or two when bleaching the hair is what
The target melanin residue
248
When wouldn’t we re-pigment the hair in a color correction?
If we want a platinum result.
249
If I want a platinum blonde result and I am doing a color correction, do I need to re-pigment?
No
250
What does re-pigmentation help to do after bleaching?
Even out the hair
251
What does re-pigmentation even out after bleaching?
Porosities and tones
252
Porosities and tones are evened out with what after bleaching?
Pigments
253
Re-pigmentation helps to ______ out the hair after bleaching.
Even
254
You need to bleach evenly for an ______ final outcome.
Even
255
You need to bleach ______ for an even final outcome.
Evenly
256
What problems of color correction utilize bleach shampoo , 000SSS/OSP and cleaning power of cube?
Too dark and too cool
257
What are the advantages to using a bleach shampoo to correct too dark?
It will definitely remove all that you don’t want to see.
258
What are the disadvantages of using a bleach shampoo too correct too dark?
-Difficult to apply accurately -May lift more than you need -Could lift unevenly -will need toning afterwards
259
Why is it difficult to apply a bleach shampoo accurately?
Because the hair is wet.
260
What is the overall opinion of using a bleach shampoo to correct small amounts of darkness?
It’s a lot of work for a small change.
261
What are the disadvantages of using the cleaning power of cube to correct too dark?
It is a color corrective procedure and it cannot be done frequently.
262
What are the disadvantages of using 000SSS / OSP to correct too dark?
Is a mild bleach, it might need toning after.
263
What are the advantages of using 000SSS / OSP to correct too dark?
- Easy to apply - Lifts slowly so gives control
264
What are the advantages of using the cleaning power of cube to correct too dark?
- Allows up to one level of lift over cosmetic color. - easy to apply - has a final target color, no toning required.
265
When considering the 3 removal methods for correcting too dark, what method would you want to use first?
The easiest method. (Cleaning power of cube)
266
How is 000SSS / OSP processed when using it to make small adjustments to hair that is too dark?
Visually
267
Will the hair need to be toned after using 000SSS / OSP for making small adjustments to the hair to correct too dark?
Yes
268
What is the formula for the cleaning power of Cube?
Chosen EOC shade + 40 vol 1:2
269
How long is the cleaning Power of Cube processed for?
35 minutes
270
Does the hair have to be toned after using the cleaning power of Cube?
No
271
How many times can the cleaning power of cube be performed?
Once
272
What is the easiest method to correct too dark?
The Cleaning power of Cube
273
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the _________ method first
Easiest
274
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the easiest _______ first.
Method
275
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the easiest method _______ .
First
276
How many methods are there to correct too dark when small changes are necessary?
3
277
“Will definitely remove all that you don’t want to see” is an advantage of what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a slight change?
Bleach shampoo
278
Difficult to apply accurately because the hair is wet is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
279
“May lift more than you need “ is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
280
“Could lift unevenly “ is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
281
“Will need toning afterwards. it’s a lot of work for a very small color change” , is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
282
“Easy to apply “, is an advantage for what two color removal methods for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a slight change?
000SSS/OSP & Cleaning Power of Cube
283
“Lifts slowly so gives control” is an advantage to what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small change?
OOOSSS / OSP
284
“Is a mild bleach - might still need toning after “, is a disadvantage to what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but needs a small change.
OOOSSS / OSP
285
“ This allows up to one level of lift over cosmetic color” is an advantage to what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but needs a small adjustment?
Cleaning Power of Cube
286
“Has a final target color so no toning is required “ is an advantage to what color removal method on hair that has gone too dark but needs a small adjustment.
Cleaning power of cube.
287
“is a color corrective procedure - cannot be frequently repeated on the hair.” , is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark and but needs a small adjustment?
Cleaning Power of Cube
288
If you have performed the Cleaning power of Cube to do color removal for a small change and it didn’t work, what should be done?
Introduce other methods
289
Why does the expression too warm not help us?
It’s not specific enough to accurately identify the problem.
290
How does hair need to be described other than too warm?
-too red - too orange - too yellow
291
If a problem cannot be accurately identified then we cannot find its __________.
Solution
292
If a problem cannot be accurately ____________, then we cannot find its solution.
Identified
293
When analyzing melanin residue, what characteristic should the hair possesses?
It must be dry
294
Yellow is complementary to what?
Violet
295
What color category can be used to neutralize unwanted tones on the same level?
EOC & PNC
296
EOC and PN can be used to neutralize __________ tones on the same level
Unwanted
297
When using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones on the same level , what are the recommended mixing ratios?
1:1.5 - for intense cooling results 1:2 - for a softer toning effect.
298
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what developer is recommended?
299
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what mixing ratio will give intense cooling results?
1:1.5
300
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what mixing ratio will give a softer toning effect?
1:2
301
For more intense cooling results when using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones what is the mixing ratio?
1: 1.5
302
For a softer toning effect when using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones what is the mixing ratio?
1:2
303
If a 1:1.5 mixing ratio is used to neutralize warm tones w EOC / PN what should be advised about the outcome of the color?
It will produce more intense cooling results.
304
What will the color outcome be if a 1:1.5 ratio is used to neutralize warmth instead of a 1:2 mixing ratio?
More intense cooling results, possibly slightly darker.
305
What mixing ratio will have a darker color outcome 1:1.5 or 1:2?
1:1.5?
306
Color wear _________ rather than neutralizes.
Filter
307
Color Wear filters rather than ________.
Neutralizes
308
If you want a cool result with Color Wear Cream what is the recommendation in you color choice?
Choose a color one level darker
309
When using color wear cream and you want a cool result when neutralizing warm tones, what is the recommendation?
Choose a color 1 level darker
310
Choosing Color one level darker than your desired color result when using CWC to neutralize warmth will produce what?
A cooler color result.
311
To neutralize warm tones w CWC what must be done?
A level darker than the target shade must be chosen to tone the hair.
312
If you just want to soften the melanin residue when using CWC what color should be chosen?
A color on the same depth
313
Choosing color on the same depth of the melanin residue when using color wear will ________ the melanin residue.
Soften
314
When using CWC to neutralize warmth, what developer should be used?
5 vol
315
When using CWC to neutralize warmth what mixing ratio should be used?
1:2
316
When we mention too cool, what specifically are we talking about?
- Too blue -Too Violet -Too green
317
“How do we correct too cool but it’s on the correct depth”, is what?
The question we ask the group when talking about specifically what kind of cool.
318
Why can’t too cool be corrected by simply putting its complimentary tone on it?
Because the blue molecule is the largest molecule and it cannot be covered with a smaller molecule (red, medium molecule and yellow, small molecule)
319
What molecule is the biggest molecule ?
Blue
320
What secondary colors is blue a component of?
Violet & Green
321
You cannot cover a large molecule with a _______ one.
Small
322
You cannot cover a _______ molecule with a small one.
Large
323
In order to correct color that is too cool, what must be done?
The blue must be removed.
324
Is blue easy to remove from the hair?
Yes
325
What is the exception to the idea that blue is easy to remove from the hair?
Direct dyes
326
What was the name of the exhibition at the art gallery?
Making color
327
Where did the exhibition “making color take place”?
In an art gallery
328
What year span do we reference when talking about the paintings at the “Making Color” exhibit?
1500’s - 1600’s
329
1500’s - 1600’s is the range of what that we discuss?
Paintings were done
330
What 2 types of paintings are compared when talking about the making color exhibit?
People and landscapes
331
Blue still exists in what paintings discussed in the “Making Color” exhibit?
People
332
In what paintings does the paint appear to be grey in the story of the “Making Color “ exhibit?
Landscapes
333
What is the only stable blue pigment taken from?
Lapis Lazuli
334
Lapis Lazuli is used for what?
Blue pigment.
335
Where was lapis lazuli mined?
What is now Afghanistan
336
What is the reason that blue remains evident in the paintings of people?
Because the lapis lazuli was sponsored by the Vatican or royalty.
337
What paintings were sponsored by the Vatican or royalty?
Paintings of people
338
What were the two richest institutions in the 1500’s and 1600’s?
Vatican and Monarchy
339
Why did the paintings of landscapes appear grey?
Because the blue pigment used for landscapes was less stable.
340
When we explain the instability of the blue pigment what do we have the group consider?
A client with completely natural hair.
341
What will we see when we consider a client with completely natural hair and compare the difference between the new growth and the ends?
Ends are warmer and lighter than the roots.
342
When a client with completely natural hair has warmer and lighter ends than the new growth what has happened?
The natural blue pigments have oxidised
343
How can you tell that the blue pigment in hair that is completely natural (virgin) has oxidized?
The ends are warmer and lighter than the roots.
344
What is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Tone and depth
345
Aside from tone what is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Depth
346
Aside from depth what is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Tone
347
What effect about the blue molecule is found in cosmetic color?.
The blue molecule fades most easily
348
What behavior of blue works to our advantage as colorists?
It fades easily
349
What behavior of blue works to our advantage as colorists?
It fades most easily
350
The blue molecule fades most _______.
Easily
351
The _______ molecule fades most easily.
Blue
352
The blue molecule _______ most easily.
Fades
353
Because the blue is easy to remove it works to our ____________.
Advantage
354
How many methods are there to remove blue?
3
355
What are the 3 methods to remove blue?
-bleach shampoo - OOOSSS / OSP - cleaning power of cube
356
Bleach shampoo, 000SSS / OSP and the cleaning power of cube are all used to remove what from the hair?
Blue
357
Bleach shampoo, 000SSS / OSP and the cleaning power of cube are 3 methods used for what color correction problems?
Too dark (small changes) Too cool
358
When correcting too cool with a bleach shampoo what needs to be taken into consideration?
Could lift too much Might have to tone.
359
What is the formula for a bleach shampoo?
25g bleach + 75g 10 vol + 10g shampoo
360
Could lift too much and will need toning are the two things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Bleach shampoo and OOOSSS / OSP
361
Could lift too much and might need toning are the two things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Bleach shampoo and OOOSSS/OSP
362
OOOSSS and Oxido is mixed in what ratio when using it to remove blue from the hair?
1:1.5
363
OSP + oxido is mixed what ratio when using it to remove blue from the hair?
1:2
364
What needs to be taken into consideration when using OOOSSS / OSP to remove blue from the hair
-Lifts slower than bleach -could lift too much - will need toning
365
Lifts slower than bleach , could lift too much and will need toning are 3 things to be taken into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
OOOSSS / OSP
366
What is the formula for the cleaning power of cube?
Chosen EOC shade + 40 vol 1:2
367
What needs to be taken into consideration when using the cleaning power of cube to remove blue from the hair?
- It has a target depth and this co trips lift - Tone is predetermined - blue is the easiest to remove
368
Has a target depth and this controls lift, tone is pre-determined and blue pigment is easiest to remove from hair are the 3 things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Cleaning Power of cube
369
Bleach will ________ remove the blue.
Easily
370
Bleach will easily ________ the blue.
Remove
371
Bleach could create too much ______.
Lift
372
If bleach lifts too much when using to correct blue what would need to be done?
You would have to tone.!
373
How is the method of OOOSSS /OSP described for the removal of the blue color molecule?
Ideal but nothing controls total lift.
374
When putting all of the problems of color correction together what should we consider it as?
Triage
375
What are the steps to triaging the hair?
1.) Identify the different problems on the hair. 2.) classify each as “too warm”, “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem. 3.) determine how you would solve each problem 4.) create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
376
Identify different problems of the hair is what step in the triage process?
Step 1.)
377
“Classify each as “too warm” , “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem” is what step in the triage process.
Step 2.)
378
What removal method is described as ideal for moving blue?
OOOSSS/OSP
379
Using OOOSSS/OSP for blue removal could produce a result that is too _______.
Light
380
If using OOOSSS/OSP to remove blue and it produces a result that is too light, what will need to be done?
It will need to be toned.
381
“Create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.” Is what step in the triage process?
Step 4.
382
In short, what are the triage steps?
1-identify 2- classify 3- solve 4- system
383
What is step 1 of the triage process?
Identify the different ‘problems’ of the hair.
384
What is the definition of triage?
the determination of priorities for action
385
What do a step 2 of triage?
Classify each problem as “too warm”, “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem.
386
What is step 3 of triage?
Determine how you would solve each problem.
387
What is step 4 of triage?
Create a system that simplifies application
388
How many steps are in the triage process?
4
389
When presented with a color correction problem, what should we take the time to do?
Determine the different presentations of color on the different parts of the hair.
390
Determine the different presentations of color on the different parts of the hair” is what we should do when presented with what ?
A Color corrective problem.
391
What is it recommend to draw to determine what colors are present in areas of the head?
A rough diagram
392
Drawing a diagram can help you determine what in a color correction?
Which colors which colors are present in the specific areas of the head.
393
How is it determined to choose what color correction problem to go after first?
Decide what the dominant problem is.
394
What is the more dominant problem of too dark and too cool?
Too dark
395
Why is too dark the more dominant problem between too dark and too cool?
Because the tone will change anyway.
396
The more ______ the hair is before you apply the final formula the more perfect the end result.
Even
397
What is the more dominant problem of too light and too cool?
Too cool
398
Why is too cool the more dominant problem when too light and too cool are the issues on the hair?
Because too cool has to be removed.
399
If I don’t remove cool tones before making the hair darker, what could happen to the color?
It can become muddy
400
Once hair has been triaged and the dominant problem has been identified, what should one do?
Determine how you would SOLVE each problem
401
Making a rough plan comes after what two processes have been conducted?
Drawing a rough diagram Determining the the dominant problem.
402
How many actions exist to correct any existing color correction problem?
4.5
403
Can two color corrective procedures be done at the same time
Yes
404
What would simplify the color correction process in the salon?
Determining which steps can be done at the same time.
405
What is it essential to do before the final color application?
Make the hair the same color.
406
What is color leveling?
Balancing the depth of color , balancing the tone
407
Balancing the different depths of color is the first step when working through what part of a color correction?
Color leveling.
408
Once depth of color has been corrected, what is the second action that should take place in color leveling?
Balance any different tones.
409
After depth is considered and corrected, what is the second thing that needs to be considered and corrected?
Tone
410
What should be balanced before applying the final color?
Depth tone porosity charge.
411
The more even the hair is before you apply the final formula, the more _______ the end result.
Perfect.
412
In addition to correcting depth and tone , what two other conditions need to be satisfied during color leveling?
Porosity & charge +/-
413
Porosity and charge +/- are also what in relation to correcting tone and depth while color leveling?
Conditions that need to be satisfied
414
When color leveling, what issues need to be satisfied to correct hair for a perfect result
Depth Tone Pososity Charge
415
How many issues need to be corrected when color leveling?
4
416
Balancing depth, tone porosity and charge are all things that need to be balanced out during what process of color correction?
Color leveling.
417
What does polarized mean?
Having positive and negative charges.
418
When is it especially important to explore the motivation of a client that was happy with their hair color but wants a changer?
When it comes unexpected.
419
Why are filters a problem with digital images
Because that picture is stable. Color changes depending on the light your in.
420
Why is psychology a problem with digital pictures?
Because sometimes clients want to be those people in the pictures.
421
How many main questions do we need to ask ourselves when considering why the hair is too light?
3
422
What are the 3 main questions to ask when the hair is too light?
Was it a bad formula? Has the client desire changed? Is there a lot of color fade?
423
Why would the result be uneven if I applied a 9.3 on hair that half was lightened to a 10 with bleach and the other half was lightened to a 10 with color?
Because the bleached hair is more hollow and the colored hair is fuller in its appearance. There is less matter in the bleached hair.
424
Rinsing the hair after 5 minutes when re-pigmenting with pigments will give the hair the appearance of what?
Hair full of vitality.
425
How many example problems are given to work through in the color correction theory course?
7
426
What is the definition of vitality?
Physical strength and health
427
What are the ideas about bleaching?
428
Balancing the depth and tone on the hair before the final color application, is called what?
Color leveling
429
When putting it all together, what is step 1?
Identify the different problems on the hair.
430
When putting it all together what is step 2.?
Classify each problem as too warm, too cool, too light, or too dark.
431
When putting it all together, what is step 3?
Determine HOW you would SOLVE each problem?
432
When putting it all together, what is step 4?
Create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
433
When putting it all together (step 1) what has to be classified?
The problems on the hair.
434
When putting it all together (step 2) what needs to be classified?
Each problem.
435
When “putting it all together” and classifying each problem, what are the problems classified as?
Too warm Too cool Too light Too dark
436
When “putting it all together” in step 3, what needs to e determined?
How you would solve each problem.
437
When “putting it all together “ step 4, what needs to be created?
A system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
438
How many steps are in “putting it all together “
4
439
Name the 4 main steps in a single word to describe “putting it all together”
- identify - classify - Solve - System