Color Correction Flashcards
What is the prompt given to the group that opens up MC III, Color correction?
Ask the group to define color correction.
“A service that changes a cosmetic color result on the hair to a different cosmetic result”, is the definition of what?
Color correction
Banding and color buildup are ________ that should be solved by color correction.
Problems
What is considered “a regular” service?
Maintaining what already exists on the hair.
Maintaining what already exists on the hair is considered what type of service?
A regular service.
Banding and color buildup are problems that should be solved by ______ correction.
Color
How is color correction different from a regular service?
Color correction changes the existing cosmetic result to a different cosmetic result while a regular service maintains the existing result.
What are the 3 ideas listed on the consultation for color correction slide??
-Listen then ask
-Use of images
- Target shades
- Listen then ask
- Use of images
- Target shades , are all the main talking points of what MC III slide?
3
What is the recommendation about time when performing a consultation?
Spend TIME talking about consultation. (You the teacher)
How many color correction clients are there?
3
An existing client who was happy with her haircolor, A client who has colored her hair herself, and a client who is unhappy with her color result are 3 types of what?
Color correction clients.
What type of color correction client contributes to a positive color correction experience?
An existing client who was happy with their haircolor and has decided they want a change.
Why would an existing client who was happy with their last haircolor become a color correction client?
They have decided that they want to change their color.
Why is a color correction performed on a client who was happy with their last hair color but wants a change a positive experience?
Because it is done out of desire rather than necessity.
Why do permanent colors have an opposite action of what we want to achieve if we are re-pigmenting?
Because they lighten the hair.
When re-pigmenting the hair, we only want to ________ color.
Deposit
The _______ charged environment of bleached hair , repel the negatively charged molecules of __________color.
Negatively
Permanent
Why would permanent color deteriorate in a short time when applied to bleached hair?
Because the negatively charged molecules are repelled by the negatively charged environment.
How much time would it take for a color to deteriorate if using permanent color on bleached hair?
Short amount of time.
Will color look good on the day of using permanent color on bleached hair?
Yes
Why will color look great only on the day/ for a short time if using permanent color on bleached hair?
Because permanent dye molecules have a negative charge, the environment of bleached hair has a negative charge and negative and negative repel.
Do pigments have to be rinsed out of the hair after processing for re-pigmentation
Yes
Does the hair have to be dried before applying color after it’s been re-pigmented
Yes.
What needs to be re-capped about what we learned in blonding about the environment of cosmetically lightened hair?
It has a negative electrostatic charge.
What 3 product families that color hair / decolorize hair create a negative electro static charge on the hair?
EOC
PN
BB BLEACH
If permanent colors are used for re-pigmentation, what problems can we create?
-Lightness in the hair
- Color deterioration
- Muddier color results
Lightness in the hair, deterioration of color , and muddy color results are all problems that can be created when re-pigmenting with what products?
Permanent colors.
Why would a permanent color appear muddier on bleached hair in comparison to other products?
Color wear has a high concentration of ____________ charged molecules?
Positively
T or F: Colorwear can be used to re-pigment hair?
True
Why would Color Wear give a good re-pigmentation result?
Because it has a high concentration of positively charged molecules.
Oxidation dyes can _________ the hair.
Lighten
T or F : Color Wear is an oxidation dye.
True
Why do oxidation dyes impact a final color result when coloring the hair darker?
Because the can lighten the hair.
When coloring the hair darker, oxidation dyes can very __________ impact the final color result.
Slightly
Pigments adapt to their ___________.
Environment
When pigments are mixed with water, they are a perfect ________ dye.
Direct
Why do pigments adapt to their environment?
Because they are polarized.
Why do pigments give the best “filling”?
Because they adapt to their environment.
Why do pigments adapt to their environment?
Because they are polarized
What is the anecdote when describing re-pigmentation w CW vs. H2O:pigments
The 1000 swatch example. 500 filled with CW & 500 filled with pigments and water
How many swatches are referenced in the anecdote about re-pigmentation with CW vs. Pigments?
1000
How many swatches are colored with CWC in the anecdote about re-pigmentation?
500
How many swatches are colored with pigments and water in the anecdote about re-pigmentation?
500
Why are the pigment swatches dipped into the pigment and water solution rather than painting with a brush in the re-pigmentation anecdote?
To speed up the process
How is the process of re-pigmentation sped up when using pigments/ CWC in the 1000 swatch anecdote?
The swatches are dipped into the color.
How many swatches are dipped into the CWC or pigments solution at a time to re-pigment them at a time?
1
Why are the 1000 swatches in the re-pigmentation scenario dipped instead of painted with a brush?
To speed up the process
Are the swatches that are re-pigmented dipped all at the same time or one by one?
One by one
What should be explored when a client who was happy with her hair color wants to change it?
The motivation for the change.
Why should the motivation for a color change be explored when an existing client was happy with their haircolor?
To make sure it’s a good change for them.
When is it especially important to explore the motivation of a client that was happy with their hair color but wants to change it
When the decision is s unexpected.
What should be talked through when a client who was happy with their hair wants to change their cosmetic color result to another?
The pros and cons of the decision
What should you be thorough about explaining in a color correction service?
Explaining what will happen during their service.
When explaining what will happen during the service how should that explanation be?
Thorough
What type of client is dependent on you to fix her own mess?
A client who has colored their own hair and has had a bad outcome.
A client who has colored their hair themself and has had a bad outcome is dependent on you to fix what?
Their own mess
A straightforward consultation will typically happen with what type of client?
A client that has colored their own hair and messed it up.
What type of color correction client Will question prices?
A client that has colored their hair themselves.
What should be offered to a color correction client that questions prices?
A selection of possible outcomes with their associated cost.
When should you offer a selection of possible outcomes with their associated costs to a color correction client?
When they question prices.
What type of client can create a difficult consultation experience?
A client who is unhappy with their color result.
A client who is unhappy with their hair, can create a ___________ consultation.
Difficult
What is the key action to do when you have a client who is unhappy with her color result?
LISTEN
Why is the key to listen to a client who doesn’t like her haircolor?
It allows them to work through any emotion as they need.
What should you allow a client who is unhappy with their haircolor to work through as they need?
Any emotions they are having.
When dealing with a client who is unhappy with her haircolor result ask questions to _______ your final picture.
Build
What do you do to build your final picture for a client who is unhappy with her haircolor result
Ask questions
What is it hard for clients to express?
Their needs in words.
Because it is hard for clients to express their needs in words what kind of questions should we ask?
Structured questions
Structured questions have options of what?
Answers
“Do you want to be brown, red or blonde”, is an example of what?
A structured sentence
What are two examples of structured questions?
1.) Do you want to be red, brown or blonde?
2.) Do you want to be one solid color or do you want to see lighter and darker colors?
What tool is valuable in all color change situations?
Pictures
What should be discussed about using pictures as a tool in consultations?
Problems of digital imaging (lighting)
Problems of digital images should be discussed when talking about the use of what consultation tool?
Digital images
What are problems with digital imaging?
Lighting
Filters
Psychology
“Do you want one solid color or do you want to see lighter and darker colors “ is an example of what kind of question?
A structured question
Target shades are defined by ________.
Number
Do you really want a target shade of .1 is a question to ask the class when talking about what?
Target shade
How many types of color correction problems are there?
4
What are the problems of color correction that need to be solved?
Too light
Too dark
Too warm
Too cool
What are some examples of ideas that need to be rejected and re-classified into color correction problems?
Banding
Color buildup
Spotting
Uneven colors
Color buildup, banding, spotting and uneven color are all examples of what?
Problems to be solved with color correction.
What should be considered when thinking about hair that is too light as a result of being cosmetically colored
Why is the hair too light?
“Why is the hair too light” is the thing we have to consider when thinking about hair that is too light as the result of what?
Being cosmetically colored
The questions (5) to ask ourselves when considering why is the hair is too light are what?
- Was it a bad formula?
- has the client desire changed?
- Is there a lot of color fade?
- Has the client overexposed the hair to sunlight?
- Is the client using the correct care products?
How many questions do we need to ask ourselves when considering why the hair is too light?
5
Was it a bad formula, has the client desire changed, is there a lot of color fade are the root questions when considering what?
Why is the hair too light?
What is a formula made of?
- Color choice
-Oxido - timing
- grey coverage (natural series)
- Starting level
Color choice, natural level, Oxido, timing and grey coverage are all what?
Things that a formula is made of.
If the hair is cosmetically too light, it has arrived there through the use of what?
-permanent color
- bleach
The use of color or the use of bleach are things that can make the hair cosmetically too _______.
Light
How is hair different when it is lightened by color vs. bleach?
-Colored hair is “fuller” in its appearance.
-Bleached hair is hollow.
Bleached hair is ________ , whilst colored hair is ________ in its appearance.
- Hollow
- Fuller
Hair that is lightened by bleach vs. hair that is lightened by color are different because why?
Bleached hollows out the hair by breaking down the melanin
Colored hair oxidizes the melanin and it stays in the hair.
When asking the group what basic steps they would use to take lightened hair darker, what is the answer we are looking for from the group?
Re-pigment, then color.
Repigmentation then color are the basic steps to apply when doing what?
Taking lighter hair darker .
What is the rule of re-pigmentation? (Law of color)
You need to re-pigment the hair when you want to achieve a result that is more than two levels darker.
“You need to re-pigment when you want to achieve a result that is more than two levels darker that the current level”, Is the rule of what?
The rule of re-pigmentation
If the hair is lightened to a level 10 and I want a level 9 do I need to re-pigment?
No
If the hair is lightened to a level 8 and I want to achieve a 6 do I need to re-pigment?
No
If the hair is lightened to a 7 and I want to achieve a 4 do I have to re-pigment
Yes
When speaking to the group about the rules of re-pigmentation what should we ask them to confirm understanding?
- Do you agree with this rule?
- Do you have any comments to make about it?
What would happen if I had a client where half of their hair is bleached to a 10 and the other half was colored to a 10 then I apply a 9.3 + 10 vol all over?
Uneven result
Why would the result be uneven if I applied a 9.3 on hair that half was lightened to a 10 with bleach and the other half was lightened to a 10 with color?
Because bleached hair is hollow.
The “new rule “ of re-pigmentation in relation to bleached hair is what?
If the hair is bleached, always re-pigment.
If the hair is __________, always re-pigment.
Bleached
When coloring one or two levels darker on un bleached hair, does the hair need to be filled?
No
What is the best choice of product to re-pigment the hair?
Pigments
When re-pigmenting the hair with pigments, what is it mixed with?
Water
What is the mixing ratio breakdown and rule for mixing pigments to re-pigment the hair?
H2O:Pigments
Objective level + 1: 1g pigments
When re-pigmenting the hair , does it go on wet or dry hair?
Dry
The target level + 1 is what?
The formula to figure out how much water to use when creating your re-pigmentation formula.
How long are pigments mixed w H2O when re-pigmenting processed ?
5 minutes
What is the water to pigment ratio to re-pigment and achieve an objective level 4?
5:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 4?
5:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 5?
6:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 6
7:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 7?
8:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 8
9:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 9?
10:1
What is the water to pigment ratio when re-pigmenting to achieve an objective color that is a level 10?
11:1
What is the objective level if I am mixing water: pigments in a 6:1 ratio ?
5
2:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
1
3:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
2
4:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
3
5:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
4
6:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
5
7:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
6
8:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
7
9:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
8
10:1 mixing ratio H2O:Pigments , what is my objective?
9
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 1?
.6 Rd
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 2?
.6 Rd
What is the recommended pigment when re-pigmenting for an objective level 3?
.6 Rd
What levels are .6 Rd pigments the only pigments recommended for re-pigmentation?
Levels 1, 2 & 3
Are the recommended pigment tones for re-pigmentation a hard rule?
No
What is the recommended pigment when wanting to achieve a neutral level 4?
.4 Cp
Cp pigments + H2O in a 5:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Neutral level 4
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a Red level 4?
.6 Rd
Rd pigments + H2O in a 5:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Red level 4
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a neutral level 5
.4 Cp
H2O + Cp pigments in a 6:1 ratio is s the recommendation to achieve what objectives when re-pigmenting the hair
Level 5 neutral result
Level 5 copper result
H2O + rd pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when re-pigmenting the hair?
Level 5 red result
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a copper result on a level 5?
.4 Cp
What is the recommended pigment when trying to achieve a warm level 5?
.3 Gd
The swatches re-pigmented w CWC in the 1000 swatch exercise are all the same color after what?
After they have been processed, rinsed and dried.
What is the outcome of the CWC swatches that are processed, rinsed and dried?
They are all the same color.
Are the pigments swatches in the 1000 swatch exercise colored all at once or dipped one by one into the water + pigments solution
Dipped one by one
What are the 500 swatches not re-pigmented with CWC dipped into?
A bowl of Water mixed with red pigments.
A bowl of water mixed with red pigments is used to dip how many swatches into one by one to re-pigment
500
What happens as we continue to dip each of the 500 swatches that is dipped into a bowl that has H2O and .6 Rd pigments?
The swatches become lighter and lighter.
As more individual swatches are dipped in the water and .6 Rd pigments solution and they become lighter and lighter what color will they tend to?
Pink
Why does the water begin to come clearer and clearer when multiple swatches are re-pigmented with H2O + pigments in a bowl?
Because the hair soaks up all the possible pigment that it can take up.
What is the idea (main point) about the 1000 swatch re-pigmentation exercise?
That pigments will absorb into the hair however much the hair can take up and we have to control re-pigmentation with the mixing ratio.
One of the most interesting things about pigments is their _________ to adapt
Ability
One of the most _____________ things about pigments, is their ability to adapt.
Interesting
One of the most interesting things about pigments is their ability to ______.
Adapt
The hair will ________ all of the pigments that it needs in order to balance the hair fiber
Absorb
The hair will absorb all the __________ it needs in order to balance the hair fiber.
Pigments
The hair will absorb all the pigments that it needs in order to _________ the hair fiber
Balance
The ______ will ________ all the __________ it needs in order to _______ the hair fiber
-hair -absorb -pigments - balance
What will be released from the hair when rinsing pigments after the 5 minute processing time?
Any excess pigments
Why is rinsing pigments from the hair vital after it’s 5 minute processing time?
Because it will ensure the most even color outcome .
What will ensure the most even color outcome and give the hair the appearance of vitality in the re-pigmentation process with pigments.
Rinsing the pigments after 5 minutes
what re-pigmentation product will provide improved longevity over other products used for pigmentation?
Pigments
Rinsing pigments from the hair after processing will ensure what?
The most even color outcome
Rinsing the hair after 5 minutes when re-pigmenting with pigments will give the hair the appearance of what?
Vitality
Hair should be_____ after the re-pigmentation process, before applying the target shade.
Dried
T or F: color always goes on wet hair?
False
If I want an objective of level 1, what is the recommended re-pigmentation shade?
.6 Rd
What is the mixing ratio of water to pigments when the objective level is level 1?
2:1
What is the mixing ratio. Of water to pigments when the objective level is a level 2?
3:1
What is the mixing ratio of water to pigments when the objective level is a level 3?
4:1
What needs to re-capped when addressing and opening up the top dark section of color correction?
All of the ideas covered about bleaching in MC II, blonding.
What are the 4 main ideas about bleaching?
- Variables that effect lift
- Which bleach?
- Application Method
- How long should I develop my bleach?
What are the variables that effect lift?
- Cosmetic color
- mixing ratio
- Peroxide
- Processing time
- starting color
- texture
When re-capping the 4 ideas of bleaching, and talking about which bleach, what needs to be mentioned about bleach choice?
- Least aggressive
- levels 4 and darker and hair with cosmetic color, use BB9 HIGH LIFT
When re-capping the ideas of bleaching and talking about application, what application methods are talked about?
-Foils
-Freehand
-Saturation
When talking about the 4 main ideas of bleaching and how long we should develop our bleach?
Develop to the top end of your target shade.
How should we encourage the group to participate in re-capping the ideas about bleaching?
Scaffold questions and guide them utilizing the flip chart.
What questions can be asked to scaffold and re-cap the ideas about bleaching?
- On bleaching day we talked about variables that affect lift, what are they? - What variables affect lift?
- What 3 tools do we have to create lift?
- When choosing bleach, how should we determine our formulation
- Which peroxide should we choose?
- which application keeps the bleach wet and retains heat?
- If I have hair in foils and one is more heavily saturated than the other, what one will have the most lift?
- How long should I develop my bleach?
In what instances would you bleach?
- When hair is too dark
- big color changes.
What should be done to understand how well the hair will lighten?
Strand test
Why should a strand test be performed?
To understand how well the hair will lighten?
A strand test is useful in determining the reality of what?
Achieving an outcome
What are the variables that effect lift?
- cosmetic color present
- mixing ratio
- peroxide choice
- processing time
- starting color
- texture
What is the acronym for to remember the variables that effect lift?
CMPPST
Using pigments allows us to control what?
Residual melanin
Using pigments allows us to control the residual _______ .
Melanin
Using pigments allows us to control the __________ melanin.
Residual
When using pigments to to control melanin residue what about it can be controlled?
Warmth
What is an example of using pigments to enhance warmth?
Bleached to orange but I want a red result.
What is an example of using pigments to control warmth?
I’ve achieved a yellow orange but but I want a cool result. Use Ag to reduce warmth.
What pigments shade is recommended to reduce warmth in the hair after lifting?
.13 Ag
Using Ag pigments to reduce warmth in the hair after lifting will create what?
A better foundation for a cooler result.
What pigment will create a better foundation for a cooler color result?
.13 Ag
What is the concept of dominancy?
Red is more dominant than orange, it’s a more powerful tone,
orange is more dominant than yellow
Blue dominates red
Red dominates what?
Orange and yellow
Red is a more ________ tone than orange.
Dominant
Why does red dominate orange?
Because it is a more powerful tone
Age will reduce what reflection?
Red.
If your desired result is in the soft copper or gold families and there is too much red after lifting, what will reduce that reflection?
.13 Ag pigments
Can a soft copper or gold be achieved if there is a lot of red in the hair?
No
When talking about the hair being too dark , what should be considered?
How much too dark?
What situations could mean that we need to make very small adjustments to the depth of our color result?
- Color build up
- poor choice of peroxide in the original formula
Color build up and poor choice of peroxide are situations that very _______ adjustments could be needed to the depth of our color result.
Small
Can bleach be used for small color adjustments?
No.
Should bleach be used for small color changes?
No
What are the 3 methods to use for small color adjustments when the hair is too dark?
- Bleach shampoo
- OOOSSS / OSP
- Cleaning power of cube
Bleach shampoo, OOOSSS / OSP and the Cleaning Power of Cube are all methods to use for what?
Small adjustments to the depth of our color result.
What is the bleach shampoo formula?
75g 10 vol Oxido
25g BB7
10 g and shampoo
What is the process for using a bleach shampoo?
-apply to damp hair
- Process visually
25g bleach + 75g 10 vol + 10g shampoo is the formula for what?
Bleach shampoo
Bleach shampoo gets applied to wet or dry hair?
Wet
How should a bleach shampoo be timed?
Visually
Will bleach shampoo provide lift to the hair?
Yes
Will the hair need to be toned after a bleach shampoo?
Yes
What is the formula when using OOOSSS/ OSP for small adjustments when the hair is too dark?
OOOSSS + Oxido 1:1.5
OSP + Oxido 1:2
When using OOOSSS/OSP for small adjustments when the hair is too dark, does it go on wet or dry hair?
Dry
What is the recommended pigment when filling for a cool level 5 result?
.13 AG
H2O: Gd pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation to achieve what objective when filling the hair?
Warm level 5
H2O : Ag pigments in a 6:1 ratio is the recommendation for filling to achieve what objective?
Cool level 5
At what level does the recommendation for a neutral result when re-pigmenting change from .4 Cp to .3 Gd?
At level 6
How is mixing pigments with water best done?
In a mouse maker
Why is the mousse maker the best way to apply pigments mixed with water?
It ensures that enough product is applied to the hair with a minimum mess.
To ensure enough product is applied to the hair with the least mess when re-pigmenting, use what tool?
Mousse maker
What two pigments can be mixed together to a slightly cool result?
Ag & Gd
What two pigments can be mixed together for a slightly cool result?
.13 Ag & .3 Gd
Ag & Gd pigments can be mixed together when re-pigmenting for a slightly _____ result.
Cool
Ag + Gd can be mixed together when re-pigmenting for a ________ cool result.
Slightly
What result will mixing Ag & Gd pigments together when re-pigmenting provide to the “melanin residue”
Slightly cool
2 pts Ag + 1 pt Gd pigments is the recommendation for repigmenting to achieve what result?
Slightly cool
What is the ratio recommendation when using Ag + Gd to re-pigment and wanting a slightly cool result?
2 pts.13 Ag + 1 pt .3 Gd
How much Ag pigments to Gd pigments is recommended when re-pigmenting for slightly cool results?
2:1
When talking about too dark and recapping the ideas of bleaching from MC II, what subjects should be talked about?
- Variables that effect lift
- Which bleach
-Which peroxide - which application method
- Development time (how long should I develop)
When talking about too dark and re-capping the ideas of of bleaching fm MC II what subjects should be talked about?
-Variables that effect lift
-What 3 tools do we have that create lift
-When choosing bleach, how should we determine our formulation.
-Which peroxide should we use?
-which application method keeps the bleach wet and retains heat?
-if I have hair in foils and one is more saturated than the other, what one will have better lift?
How is location of a strand test determined?
Where color is the darkest or is apparent that there is color buildup.
How big should the section for a strand test be?
1/2 inch by 2 or 3 inches
A section of a half an inch by 2 or 3 inches is used for what?
A strand test.
Where color buildup is most apparent or the color is the darkest, is the best place to perform what?
Strand test
What is used to perform a strand test?
Your chosen bleach formula and mixing ratio in a piece of foil.
When discussing your target for bleaching for a color correction what is the rule?
One level lighter than your target.
Two levels lighter than your target result when bleaching the hair in a color correction service will allow for what?
A cool result.
One level lighter or two when bleaching the hair is what
The target melanin residue
When wouldn’t we re-pigment the hair in a color correction?
If we want a platinum result.
If I want a platinum blonde result and I am doing a color correction, do I need to re-pigment?
No
What does re-pigmentation help to do after bleaching?
Even out the hair
What does re-pigmentation even out after bleaching?
Porosities and tones
Porosities and tones are evened out with what after bleaching?
Pigments
Re-pigmentation helps to ______ out the hair after bleaching.
Even
You need to bleach evenly for an ______ final outcome.
Even
You need to bleach ______ for an even final outcome.
Evenly
What problems of color correction utilize bleach shampoo , 000SSS/OSP and cleaning power of cube?
Too dark and too cool
What are the advantages to using a bleach shampoo to correct too dark?
It will definitely remove all that you don’t want to see.
What are the disadvantages of using a bleach shampoo too correct too dark?
-Difficult to apply accurately
-May lift more than you need
-Could lift unevenly
-will need toning afterwards
Why is it difficult to apply a bleach shampoo accurately?
Because the hair is wet.
What is the overall opinion of using a bleach shampoo to correct small amounts of darkness?
It’s a lot of work for a small change.
What are the disadvantages of using the cleaning power of cube to correct too dark?
It is a color corrective procedure and it cannot be done frequently.
What are the disadvantages of using 000SSS / OSP to correct too dark?
Is a mild bleach, it might need toning after.
What are the advantages of using 000SSS / OSP to correct too dark?
- Easy to apply
- Lifts slowly so gives control
What are the advantages of using the cleaning power of cube to correct too dark?
- Allows up to one level of lift over cosmetic color.
- easy to apply
- has a final target color, no toning required.
When considering the 3 removal methods for correcting too dark, what method would you want to use first?
The easiest method. (Cleaning power of cube)
How is 000SSS / OSP processed when using it to make small adjustments to hair that is too dark?
Visually
Will the hair need to be toned after using 000SSS / OSP for making small adjustments to the hair to correct too dark?
Yes
What is the formula for the cleaning power of Cube?
Chosen EOC shade + 40 vol 1:2
How long is the cleaning Power of Cube processed for?
35 minutes
Does the hair have to be toned after using the cleaning power of Cube?
No
How many times can the cleaning power of cube be performed?
Once
What is the easiest method to correct too dark?
The Cleaning power of Cube
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the _________ method first
Easiest
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the easiest _______ first.
Method
When considering color removal to correct too dark, use the easiest method _______ .
First
How many methods are there to correct too dark when small changes are necessary?
3
“Will definitely remove all that you don’t want to see” is an advantage of what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a slight change?
Bleach shampoo
Difficult to apply accurately because the hair is wet is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
“May lift more than you need “ is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
“Could lift unevenly “ is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
“Will need toning afterwards. it’s a lot of work for a very small color change” , is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small adjustment?
Bleach shampoo
“Easy to apply “, is an advantage for what two color removal methods for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a slight change?
000SSS/OSP & Cleaning Power of Cube
“Lifts slowly so gives control” is an advantage to what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but only needs a small change?
OOOSSS / OSP
“Is a mild bleach - might still need toning after “, is a disadvantage to what removal method for hair that has gone too dark but needs a small change.
OOOSSS / OSP
“ This allows up to one level of lift over cosmetic color” is an advantage to what color removal method for hair that has gone too dark but needs a small adjustment?
Cleaning Power of Cube
“Has a final target color so no toning is required “ is an advantage to what color removal method on hair that has gone too dark but needs a small adjustment.
Cleaning power of cube.
“is a color corrective procedure - cannot be frequently repeated on the hair.” , is a disadvantage of what removal method for hair that has gone too dark and but needs a small adjustment?
Cleaning Power of Cube
If you have performed the Cleaning power of Cube to do color removal for a small change and it didn’t work, what should be done?
Introduce other methods
Why does the expression too warm not help us?
It’s not specific enough to accurately identify the problem.
How does hair need to be described other than too warm?
-too red
- too orange
- too yellow
If a problem cannot be accurately identified then we cannot find its __________.
Solution
If a problem cannot be accurately ____________, then we cannot find its solution.
Identified
When analyzing melanin residue, what characteristic should the hair possesses?
It must be dry
Yellow is complementary to what?
Violet
What color category can be used to neutralize unwanted tones on the same level?
EOC & PNC
EOC and PN can be used to neutralize __________ tones on the same level
Unwanted
When using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones on the same level , what are the recommended mixing ratios?
1:1.5 - for intense cooling results
1:2 - for a softer toning effect.
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what developer is recommended?
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what mixing ratio will give intense cooling results?
1:1.5
When using EOC / PN for neutralizing warm tones on the same level, what mixing ratio will give a softer toning effect?
1:2
For more intense cooling results when using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones what is the mixing ratio?
1: 1.5
For a softer toning effect when using EOC / PN to neutralize warm tones what is the mixing ratio?
1:2
If a 1:1.5 mixing ratio is used to neutralize warm tones w EOC / PN what should be advised about the outcome of the color?
It will produce more intense cooling results.
What will the color outcome be if a 1:1.5 ratio is used to neutralize warmth instead of a 1:2 mixing ratio?
More intense cooling results, possibly slightly darker.
What mixing ratio will have a darker color outcome 1:1.5 or 1:2?
1:1.5?
Color wear _________ rather than neutralizes.
Filter
Color Wear filters rather than ________.
Neutralizes
If you want a cool result with Color Wear Cream what is the recommendation in you color choice?
Choose a color one level darker
When using color wear cream and you want a cool result when neutralizing warm tones, what is the recommendation?
Choose a color 1 level darker
Choosing Color one level darker than your desired color result when using CWC to neutralize warmth will produce what?
A cooler color result.
To neutralize warm tones w CWC what must be done?
A level darker than the target shade must be chosen to tone the hair.
If you just want to soften the melanin residue when using CWC what color should be chosen?
A color on the same depth
Choosing color on the same depth of the melanin residue when using color wear will ________ the melanin residue.
Soften
When using CWC to neutralize warmth, what developer should be used?
5 vol
When using CWC to neutralize warmth what mixing ratio should be used?
1:2
When we mention too cool, what specifically are we talking about?
- Too blue
-Too Violet
-Too green
“How do we correct too cool but it’s on the correct depth”, is what?
The question we ask the group when talking about specifically what kind of cool.
Why can’t too cool be corrected by simply putting its complimentary tone on it?
Because the blue molecule is the largest molecule and it cannot be covered with a smaller molecule (red, medium molecule and yellow, small molecule)
What molecule is the biggest molecule ?
Blue
What secondary colors is blue a component of?
Violet & Green
You cannot cover a large molecule with a _______ one.
Small
You cannot cover a _______ molecule with a small one.
Large
In order to correct color that is too cool, what must be done?
The blue must be removed.
Is blue easy to remove from the hair?
Yes
What is the exception to the idea that blue is easy to remove from the hair?
Direct dyes
What was the name of the exhibition at the art gallery?
Making color
Where did the exhibition “making color take place”?
In an art gallery
What year span do we reference when talking about the paintings at the “Making Color” exhibit?
1500’s - 1600’s
1500’s - 1600’s is the range of what that we discuss?
Paintings were done
What 2 types of paintings are compared when talking about the making color exhibit?
People and landscapes
Blue still exists in what paintings discussed in the “Making Color” exhibit?
People
In what paintings does the paint appear to be grey in the story of the “Making Color “ exhibit?
Landscapes
What is the only stable blue pigment taken from?
Lapis Lazuli
Lapis Lazuli is used for what?
Blue pigment.
Where was lapis lazuli mined?
What is now Afghanistan
What is the reason that blue remains evident in the paintings of people?
Because the lapis lazuli was sponsored by the Vatican or royalty.
What paintings were sponsored by the Vatican or royalty?
Paintings of people
What were the two richest institutions in the 1500’s and 1600’s?
Vatican and Monarchy
Why did the paintings of landscapes appear grey?
Because the blue pigment used for landscapes was less stable.
When we explain the instability of the blue pigment what do we have the group consider?
A client with completely natural hair.
What will we see when we consider a client with completely natural hair and compare the difference between the new growth and the ends?
Ends are warmer and lighter than the roots.
When a client with completely natural hair has warmer and lighter ends than the new growth what has happened?
The natural blue pigments have oxidised
How can you tell that the blue pigment in hair that is completely natural (virgin) has oxidized?
The ends are warmer and lighter than the roots.
What is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Tone and depth
Aside from tone what is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Depth
Aside from depth what is the large blue molecule responsible for?
Tone
What effect about the blue molecule is found in cosmetic color?.
The blue molecule fades most easily
What behavior of blue works to our advantage as colorists?
It fades easily
What behavior of blue works to our advantage as colorists?
It fades most easily
The blue molecule fades most _______.
Easily
The _______ molecule fades most easily.
Blue
The blue molecule _______ most easily.
Fades
Because the blue is easy to remove it works to our ____________.
Advantage
How many methods are there to remove blue?
3
What are the 3 methods to remove blue?
-bleach shampoo
- OOOSSS / OSP
- cleaning power of cube
Bleach shampoo, 000SSS / OSP and the cleaning power of cube are all used to remove what from the hair?
Blue
Bleach shampoo, 000SSS / OSP and the cleaning power of cube are 3 methods used for what color correction problems?
Too dark (small changes)
Too cool
When correcting too cool with a bleach shampoo what needs to be taken into consideration?
Could lift too much
Might have to tone.
What is the formula for a bleach shampoo?
25g bleach + 75g 10 vol + 10g shampoo
Could lift too much and will need toning are the two things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Bleach shampoo and OOOSSS / OSP
Could lift too much and might need toning are the two things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Bleach shampoo and OOOSSS/OSP
OOOSSS and Oxido is mixed in what ratio when using it to remove blue from the hair?
1:1.5
OSP + oxido is mixed what ratio when using it to remove blue from the hair?
1:2
What needs to be taken into consideration when using OOOSSS / OSP to remove blue from the hair
-Lifts slower than bleach
-could lift too much
- will need toning
Lifts slower than bleach , could lift too much and will need toning are 3 things to be taken into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
OOOSSS / OSP
What is the formula for the cleaning power of cube?
Chosen EOC shade + 40 vol 1:2
What needs to be taken into consideration when using the cleaning power of cube to remove blue from the hair?
- It has a target depth and this co trips lift
- Tone is predetermined
- blue is the easiest to remove
Has a target depth and this controls lift, tone is pre-determined and blue pigment is easiest to remove from hair are the 3 things to take into consideration when using what method to remove blue?
Cleaning Power of cube
Bleach will ________ remove the blue.
Easily
Bleach will easily ________ the blue.
Remove
Bleach could create too much ______.
Lift
If bleach lifts too much when using to correct blue what would need to be done?
You would have to tone.!
How is the method of OOOSSS /OSP described for the removal of the blue color molecule?
Ideal but nothing controls total lift.
When putting all of the problems of color correction together what should we consider it as?
Triage
What are the steps to triaging the hair?
1.) Identify the different problems on the hair.
2.) classify each as “too warm”, “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem.
3.) determine how you would solve each problem
4.) create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
Identify different problems of the hair is what step in the triage process?
Step 1.)
“Classify each as “too warm” , “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem” is what step in the triage process.
Step 2.)
What removal method is described as ideal for moving blue?
OOOSSS/OSP
Using OOOSSS/OSP for blue removal could produce a result that is too _______.
Light
If using OOOSSS/OSP to remove blue and it produces a result that is too light, what will need to be done?
It will need to be toned.
“Create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.” Is what step in the triage process?
Step 4.
In short, what are the triage steps?
1-identify
2- classify
3- solve
4- system
What is step 1 of the triage process?
Identify the different ‘problems’ of the hair.
What is the definition of triage?
the determination of priorities for action
What do a step 2 of triage?
Classify each problem as “too warm”, “too cool”, “too light”, “too dark” by its most dominant problem.
What is step 3 of triage?
Determine how you would solve each problem.
What is step 4 of triage?
Create a system that simplifies application
How many steps are in the triage process?
4
When presented with a color correction problem, what should we take the time to do?
Determine the different presentations of color on the different parts of the hair.
Determine the different presentations of color on the different parts of the hair” is what we should do when presented with what ?
A Color corrective problem.
What is it recommend to draw to determine what colors are present in areas of the head?
A rough diagram
Drawing a diagram can help you determine what in a color correction?
Which colors which colors are present in the specific areas of the head.
How is it determined to choose what color correction problem to go after first?
Decide what the dominant problem is.
What is the more dominant problem of too dark and too cool?
Too dark
Why is too dark the more dominant problem between too dark and too cool?
Because the tone will change anyway.
The more ______ the hair is before you apply the final formula the more perfect the end result.
Even
What is the more dominant problem of too light and too cool?
Too cool
Why is too cool the more dominant problem when too light and too cool are the issues on the hair?
Because too cool has to be removed.
If I don’t remove cool tones before making the hair darker, what could happen to the color?
It can become muddy
Once hair has been triaged and the dominant problem has been identified, what should one do?
Determine how you would SOLVE each problem
Making a rough plan comes after what two processes have been conducted?
Drawing a rough diagram
Determining the the dominant problem.
How many actions exist to correct any existing color correction problem?
4.5
Can two color corrective procedures be done at the same time
Yes
What would simplify the color correction process in the salon?
Determining which steps can be done at the same time.
What is it essential to do before the final color application?
Make the hair the same color.
What is color leveling?
Balancing the depth of color , balancing the tone
Balancing the different depths of color is the first step when working through what part of a color correction?
Color leveling.
Once depth of color has been corrected, what is the second action that should take place in color leveling?
Balance any different tones.
After depth is considered and corrected, what is the second thing that needs to be considered and corrected?
Tone
What should be balanced before applying the final color?
Depth
tone
porosity
charge.
The more even the hair is before you apply the final formula, the more _______ the end result.
Perfect.
In addition to correcting depth and tone , what two other conditions need to be satisfied during color leveling?
Porosity & charge +/-
Porosity and charge +/- are also what in relation to correcting tone and depth while color leveling?
Conditions that need to be satisfied
When color leveling, what issues need to be satisfied to correct hair for a perfect result
Depth
Tone
Pososity
Charge
How many issues need to be corrected when color leveling?
4
Balancing depth, tone porosity and charge are all things that need to be balanced out during what process of color correction?
Color leveling.
What does polarized mean?
Having positive and negative charges.
When is it especially important to explore the motivation of a client that was happy with their hair color but wants a changer?
When it comes unexpected.
Why are filters a problem with digital images
Because that picture is stable. Color changes depending on the light your in.
Why is psychology a problem with digital pictures?
Because sometimes clients want to be those people in the pictures.
How many main questions do we need to ask ourselves when considering why the hair is too light?
3
What are the 3 main questions to ask when the hair is too light?
Was it a bad formula?
Has the client desire changed?
Is there a lot of color fade?
Why would the result be uneven if I applied a 9.3 on hair that half was lightened to a 10 with bleach and the other half was lightened to a 10 with color?
Because the bleached hair is more hollow and the colored hair is fuller in its appearance. There is less matter in the bleached hair.
Rinsing the hair after 5 minutes when re-pigmenting with pigments will give the hair the appearance of what?
Hair full of vitality.
How many example problems are given to work through in the color correction theory course?
7
What is the definition of vitality?
Physical strength and health
What are the ideas about bleaching?
Balancing the depth and tone on the hair before the final color application, is called what?
Color leveling
When putting it all together, what is step 1?
Identify the different problems on the hair.
When putting it all together what is step 2.?
Classify each problem as too warm, too cool, too light, or too dark.
When putting it all together, what is step 3?
Determine HOW you would SOLVE each problem?
When putting it all together, what is step 4?
Create a system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
When putting it all together (step 1) what has to be classified?
The problems on the hair.
When putting it all together (step 2) what needs to be classified?
Each problem.
When “putting it all together” and classifying each problem, what are the problems classified as?
Too warm
Too cool
Too light
Too dark
When “putting it all together” in step 3, what needs to e determined?
How you would solve each problem.
When “putting it all together “ step 4, what needs to be created?
A system that simplifies application and has practical time considerations in the salon.
How many steps are in “putting it all together “
4
Name the 4 main steps in a single word to describe “putting it all together”
- identify
- classify
- Solve
- System
