Geology Flashcards
Capillarity waves (ripples)
gravity waves
crest
the highest part of a wave.
trough
lowest part of a wave
wavelength
the distance between successive crests
wave height
the vertical distance from the crest to the
trough.
still water level
halfway between crest and trough
wave period
the time it takes for a wave to move a distance
of one wavelength.
wave frequency
is the number of waves passing a fixed point
per second.
frequency=
Frequency (f) =
1/
period (T)
water on a wave surface moves in______
circular orbital motion
Wave energy increases
rapidly with the ____ of the
wave _____.
square; height
How tall a wave becomes depends on:
1) The speed of wind
2) The duration of time the wind blows
3) The fetch
4) The consistency of wind direction
Fetch
the distance over which wind blows without
interruption.
interference
overlapping of waves.
Constructive interference
in phase → higher waves.
Destructive interference
out of phase → smaller waves.
Swell
combination of constructive and destructive
interference of multiple sets of waves
As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave
height _____and wavelength _____.
increases; decreases
Breaker
the collapse of a steepened wave as it approaches
the shoreline.
Surf Zone
zone of breaking waves
Refraction
the bending of wave (light or sound) as it passes
from one medium to another
Wave Refraction
the bending of a wave due to slowing when
the wave enters shallow water
Seiche
is an oscillating wave that sloshes back and forth
within an enclosed body of waters such as a sea, bay, lake, or
swimming pool
Tsunami
or seismic sea wave, is produced by a sudden
movement of the sea floor