Brainscape's Knowledge GenomeTM

Browse over 1 million classes created by top students, professors, publishers, and experts.


See full index

STUDYING > GEO 230 EXAM 3 > Flashcards

GEO 230 EXAM 3 Flashcards

1
Q

Waves are the manifestation of the translation of energy through a medium

A

The medium does not travel in the direction of the wave

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

Ocean waves are orbital waves and combine elements of 2 fundamental wave types

A

Longitudinal (push-pull)

Transverse (side to side)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

Crest

A

High point of wave

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

Trough

A

Low point of wave

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

Stillwater (or mean water) level

A

Relaxed level of water surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

Wave height (H)

A

Crest to trough distance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

Amplitude (A)

A

H/2

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Wavelength (L)

A

Crest to crest distance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

Wave steepness

A

H/L

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

Period (T)

A

Time it takes for one wavelength to pass a reference point in a given time (T= 1/F)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Frequency (F)

A

of wave crests to pass a reference point in a given time (F=1/T)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

Wavespeed (C)

A

1/period = 1/T

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

Progressive waves

A

Moves across surface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

Standing waves

A

Stay in one place

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Wave motion

A

Path of water molecule

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Deep water waves

A

If water depth (d) > L/2

Waves have no interference with ocean bottom

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

Wave Speed-C

A

For deeper waves, the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave C= 1.25 square root of L

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

Shallow-water waves

A

If water depth d

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

Transitional (intermediate) waves

A

If what we depth L/2

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

Light winds

A

Capillary waves
Max wavelength 1.7 cm
Rounded crests, v shaped troughs
Disappear quickly when wind stops

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

Increasing wind

A

Larger waves

22
Q

What causes waves?

A

Movement of air (wind)-ocean waves
Mass movement into ocean- splash waves
Sea floor movement (earthquake)-tsunami
Gravitational pull of the moon & sun- tides

23
Q

Smooth sine waves

A

Pointed crests; round troughs

24
Q

Breaking waves

A

Deep water waves

Waves form white caps (breaks) when they get too steep

25
Q

When steepness H/L > 1:7 they

A

Break

26
Q

Spray

A

Tops of waves get blown off completely due to wind
When it gets heavy it’s called…
Spindrift

27
Q

Factors affecting wave height

A

Wind speed
Wind duration
Fetch- uninterrupted distance over which wind blows

28
Q

When a sea reaches equilibrium state

A

Energy gain = energy loss

Called “fully developed”

29
Q

Largest wave recorded

A

34 meters = 100 feet

30
Q

Wave dissipation

A

When a force creates a wave the wave is propagated through water

31
Q

Rogue waves

A

Unusually large waves
Super waves
Freak waves
Perfect storm wave

32
Q

Surf zone

A

The zone of breaking waves

33
Q

Sequence

A 
Wave touches bottom 
Wavelength shortens 
Velocity decreases 
Wave height increases 
Breakers form
34
Q

When wave steepness H/L > 1:7 waves

A

Break in surf

35
Q

Local winds

A

Disorganized chaotic surf

36
Q

Swells

A

Long wavelength
More organized
Orderly surf

37
Q

Shallow—spilling breaker

A

When sea floor is almost flat and gentle, wave break progressively as they make their way in shore

38
Q

Moderately steep—plunging breaker

A

When sea floor slope is moderately steep these produce the spectacular curling waves that surfers covet
Produced when wave top get ahead of wave base that is slowed by sea floor

39
Q

Steep—collapsing breaker

A

Occurs when sea floor is steep and leading edge of wave collapses before crest can develop

40
Q

Very steep—surging breaker

A

Waves surge in and away from beach

41
Q

Wave refraction

A

Waves coming in at angle
Bending of waves as reaches shore
Waves slow down as they feel bottom in surf zone
Become more parallel to shoreline

42
Q

Wave diffraction

A

Waves hitting irregular shoreline

Waves radiate from a point

43
Q

Wave reflection

A

Reflection of waves off a breakwall

44
Q

Tsu

A

Harbor

45
Q

Nami

A

Wave

46
Q

Tsunamis

A

Cause= sudden movement on sea floor from earthquakes, landslides, or underwater volcanic eruptions
Referred to as seismic sea waves

47
Q

Changes when waves hit shallow water

A

Wavelength shortens
Velocity decreases
Wave height increases

48
Q

Shore

A

Between low tide and highest elevation affected by storm waves

49
Q

Coast

A

From shore to farthest inland ocean-related features

50
Q

Coastline

A

Boundary between shore and ocean

STUDYING (5 decks)

Brainscape helps you reach your goals faster, through stronger study habits.
© 2024 Bold Learning Solutions. Terms and Conditions