GEO 230 EXAM 3

Question 1

Waves are the manifestation of the translation of energy through a medium

Answer 1

The medium does not travel in the direction of the wave

Question 2

Ocean waves are orbital waves and combine elements of 2 fundamental wave types

Answer 2

Longitudinal (push-pull)

Transverse (side to side)

Question 3

Crest

Answer 3

High point of wave

Question 4

Trough

Answer 4

Low point of wave

Question 5

Stillwater (or mean water) level

Answer 5

Relaxed level of water surface

Question 6

Wave height (H)

Answer 6

Crest to trough distance

Question 7

Amplitude (A)

Answer 7

H/2

Question 8

Wavelength (L)

Answer 8

Crest to crest distance

Question 9

Wave steepness

Answer 9

H/L

Question 10

Period (T)

Answer 10

Time it takes for one wavelength to pass a reference point in a given time (T= 1/F)

Question 11

Frequency (F)

Answer 11

of wave crests to pass a reference point in a given time (F=1/T)

Question 12

Wavespeed (C)

Answer 12

1/period = 1/T

Question 13

Progressive waves

Answer 13

Moves across surface

Question 14

Standing waves

Answer 14

Stay in one place

Question 15

Wave motion

Answer 15

Path of water molecule

Question 16

Deep water waves

Answer 16

If water depth (d) > L/2

Waves have no interference with ocean bottom

Question 17

Wave Speed-C

Answer 17

For deeper waves, the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave C= 1.25 square root of L

Question 18

Shallow-water waves

Answer 18

If water depth d

Question 19

Transitional (intermediate) waves

Answer 19

If what we depth L/2

Question 20

Light winds

Answer 20

Capillary waves
Max wavelength 1.7 cm
Rounded crests, v shaped troughs
Disappear quickly when wind stops

Question 21

Increasing wind

Answer 21

Larger waves

Question 22

What causes waves?

Answer 22

Movement of air (wind)-ocean waves
Mass movement into ocean- splash waves
Sea floor movement (earthquake)-tsunami
Gravitational pull of the moon & sun- tides

Question 23

Smooth sine waves

Answer 23

Pointed crests; round troughs

Question 24

Breaking waves

Answer 24

Deep water waves

Waves form white caps (breaks) when they get too steep

Question 25

When steepness H/L > 1:7 they

Answer 25

Break

Question 26

Spray

Answer 26

Tops of waves get blown off completely due to wind When it gets heavy it's called... Spindrift

Question 27

Factors affecting wave height

Answer 27

Wind speed Wind duration Fetch- uninterrupted distance over which wind blows

Question 28

When a sea reaches equilibrium state

Answer 28

Energy gain = energy loss | Called "fully developed"

Question 29

Largest wave recorded

Answer 29

34 meters = 100 feet

Question 30

Wave dissipation

Answer 30

When a force creates a wave the wave is propagated through water

Question 31

Rogue waves

Answer 31

Unusually large waves Super waves Freak waves Perfect storm wave

Question 32

Surf zone

Answer 32

The zone of breaking waves

Question 33

Sequence

Answer 33

``` Wave touches bottom Wavelength shortens Velocity decreases Wave height increases Breakers form ```

Question 34

When wave steepness H/L > 1:7 waves

Answer 34

Break in surf

Question 35

Local winds

Answer 35

Disorganized chaotic surf

Question 36

Swells

Answer 36

Long wavelength More organized Orderly surf

Question 37

Shallow---spilling breaker

Answer 37

When sea floor is almost flat and gentle, wave break progressively as they make their way in shore

Question 38

Moderately steep---plunging breaker

Answer 38

When sea floor slope is moderately steep these produce the spectacular curling waves that surfers covet Produced when wave top get ahead of wave base that is slowed by sea floor

Question 39

Steep---collapsing breaker

Answer 39

Occurs when sea floor is steep and leading edge of wave collapses before crest can develop

Question 40

Very steep---surging breaker

Answer 40

Waves surge in and away from beach

Question 41

Wave refraction

Answer 41

Waves coming in at angle Bending of waves as reaches shore Waves slow down as they feel bottom in surf zone Become more parallel to shoreline

Question 42

Wave diffraction

Answer 42

Waves hitting irregular shoreline | Waves radiate from a point

Question 43

Wave reflection

Answer 43

Reflection of waves off a breakwall

Question 44

Tsu

Answer 44

Harbor

Question 45

Nami

Answer 45

Wave

Question 46

Tsunamis

Answer 46

Cause= sudden movement on sea floor from earthquakes, landslides, or underwater volcanic eruptions Referred to as seismic sea waves

Question 47

Changes when waves hit shallow water

Answer 47

Wavelength shortens Velocity decreases Wave height increases

Question 48

Shore

Answer 48

Between low tide and highest elevation affected by storm waves

Question 49

Coast

Answer 49

From shore to farthest inland ocean-related features

Question 50

Coastline

Answer 50

Boundary between shore and ocean