full hair colour exam review Flashcards
What colours neutralize each other on the colour wheel?
Green - red
Violet - yellow
Orange - blue
Colour levels in order from darkest to lightest?
Natural black Natural dark brown Natural medium brown Natural light brown Natural lightest brown Natural dark blonde \ Natural medium blonde Natural light blonde Natual very light blonde Natural lightest blonde
Underline pigments drak - lightest
Dark red-brown Red-brown Red Red-orange Orange Orange gold Gold Yellow gold Yellow Pale yellow
Parts of the hair :
Cuticle
Cortex
Medula
2 types of Oxations:
non - oxative : semi and temp
Oxatiove : demi, and perm
what are the 5 questions have to think about before colour service?
- what is the natural level, and does it include gray hair
- what is the level and tone of the previously coloured hair
- what is the clients desired level and tone
- are contributing pigment
- what colours should be mixed to get the desired results
Safety precaution:
- Patch test: So there hair dose get messed up if you give the wrong chemical serious
- Strand test: How the hair will react to the colour formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair
- Do not apply hair colour if abrasions are present on the scalp
- Do not apply colour if metallic or compound hair colour is present.
- Do not brush the hair prior to applying colour.
- Always read and follow the manufacturer’s directions
- Use clean tools
- Protect clothing
- Don’t mix hair colour until you are ready to use it and get rid of old dye
- Wear gloves
- Don’t get it in their eyes
- Don’t overlap
- Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip colour
- Use a mild shampoo . an alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip colour
- Always wash hands
Single processes application:
A single process application means you are only doing one colour/or lightening process.
Double process:
A double process application is when you process the hair twice with lightener or hair colour
Mixing ratios/timing
Shades EQ: Mixing ratio 1:1 And producing time 20 Chromatics: Mixing ratio 1:1 Processing time is 35 mins
Types of lightener
Oil: the mildest type, appropriate when only one or two-level are desired.
cream: strong enough for hight lift blonding, but gentle enough to be the scalp.
Powder: are strong, fast-acting ( can’t use on the scalp )
Volumes: lower the vol the less lift achieved the higher the more lift
10 vol: used to deposit color
20 vol: up to 2 levels of lift
30 vol: up to 3 levels
40 vol: up to 4 levels with stander color
what is gray hair?
Grey hair is hair that has lost of pigment and is normally associated with aging.
30% grey hair?
more pigment than gray hair
50% grey hair?
even mixture of grey and pigment hair
70% - 90% grey hair?
more gray than pigmented; most of the remaining pigment is located in the back of the head.
100% grey hair?
virtually no pigment hair; tends to look white.
Density:
Hairs density the number of hair per square inch can range from thin to thick.
Texture:
Hair texture is the diameter of an individual hair strand. Large medium small diameter hair strands translate into corse medium and fine hair texture.
Porosity:
Porosity is the hair’s ability to October moister
Low porosity: the cuticle is tight. The hair is resistants
Average porosity: the cuticle is slightly raised
High porosity: the cuticle is lifted
Eumelanin:
is the melanin that lends black and brown to hair
pheomelanin:
is the melanin that blond and red colors to hair
Mixed melanin:
is a combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin.
Contributing pigment
also known as undertone is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lighting process.
A few reasons clients colour their hair:
Cover up grey or blend grey ( unpigmented ) hair
Enhance an existing hair colour
Create a fashion statement or self-expression
Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environment exposer to the sun or chlorine
Accentuate a particular hair cut.
The cuticle is :
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair.it protects the interior cortex layer and contributes up to 20 % of the overall strength of the hair.
The cortex is:
The cortex is the middle layer and it gives rhe hair the majority of its strength and elasticity. A healthy cortex contributes about 80% to the overall strength of the hair.
The medulla is:
The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. It is sometimes absent from the hair and doesn’t play a role in hair coloring proses.
Client consultation and communion
- Inspect hair of natural pigmentation, Artifical pigmentation and percentage of grey hair
- Perform a patch test or strand test if needed
- Determine face shape, hairstyle, haircut.
- Discuss areas to enhance clients features, hairstyles and hair cute using colour and lighting techniques
- Examine, describe and discuss the current trend for colouring and lighting hair
- Discuss the cost of procedure and upkeep for permission to proceed
- Document all results of analysis and consultation
- Confirm and formulate colour, products and procedure
- Blueprint ( NL, el, dl, cp, %
- Gather appropriate tools
- Mix according to manufacturer specifications
- Advice on home care maintenance
- Reschedule client for the appropriate date to have touched up
NL:
natural level
EL:
existing level
DL:
desired level
CP:
underline pigment
% :
percentage of grey
What are something you have to think about before you do a colour service/ go to the colour cabin?
NL= natural level EL= existing level DL= desired level CP= underline pigment % = percenttage of grey Texture and porosity Do you need to lighten or deposit colour ? Colour selections? How many levels of lift are required? What volume of developer will be used? What undertones are present? What tones do you want to see? What the mixing proportion? Decide on the application method How long will the colour process?
N-
NEUTRAL/NATURAL
G-
GOLD
B-
BEIGE (lighter levels)
C-
COPPER
R-
RED
V-
VIOLET
B- -
BROWN (darker levels)
T-
TITANIUM (steel)
P-
PEARL
DOUBLE PIGMENTS
NG- NATURAL GOLD
BC- BROWN COPPER
RV- RED VIOLET
CR- COPPER RED
Tone/hue is:
is the balance of color. can be described as, warm, cool, neutral.
intensity is:
it refers to the strength of a color. it can be described as soft, medium, or strong.
Temporary hair colour is:
creates fun, bold results and easily shampoos from the hair. neutralizes yellow hair.
a patch test is:
put a patch color/lighter by the nape of the neck, to test for allergic reaction
a strand test is:
A small piece of hair by the nape and apply color/lightener on it to see how the color formula reacts and how long it should be on the hair.
3 types of lighteners from strongest to weakest?
- powder lightener
- cream lightener
- oil lightener
powder lightener:
are strong, fast-acting, some are for on the scalp and some are off.
cream lightener:
are strong enough for high lift blonding, but generally on the scalp.
oil lightener:
are the mildest type, appropriate when only one or two levels of lift are desired
when is hair considered damaged?
when it is :
- rough texture
- over porous condition
- brittle and dry to the touch
- susceptible to breakage
- no elasticity
- becomes spongy and matted when wet
- colour fades too quickly or grabs to dark.
the roles of the alkalizing ingredient ammonia or an ammonia substitute- as are follow:
- raise the cuticle of the hair so that the hair color can penetrate into the cortex.
- increase the penetration of dye within the hair.
- trigger the lightening action of peroxide.
