Final-Waves Flashcards
What are wavelength, wave height, and wave steepness?
Wave Steepness= H/L
Wavelength-The distance between crests
Wave Height -Difference between crest and trough
Wave period and frequency?
Wave Period-The time it takes for a wave to complete one cycle
Wave Frequency-The number of occurrences per unit time
What is the difference between constructive and destructive interference?
Constructive Interference Two waves come together in phase and increase H
Destructive Interference Two waves come together out of phase and reduce H
What does
it mean for a wave to be dispersive or non-dispersive?
Dispersive Waves Waves that deform as they propagate
Non-dispersive Waves Waves propagate without deformation
What are the
generating and restoring forces for waves in general?
Wave Generating Forces wind, earthquakes, sun, moon
Wave Restoring Forces surface tension, gravity, coriolis
What are the conditions for deep- or shallow-water waves (i.e., what is the relation between water depth and wavelength)?
Deep Water Wave d greater than L/2
Shallow Water Wave d less than L/20
What is Stokes Drift? What are the formulas for wave speeds in the shallow- and deep-water cases?
Stokes Drift A wave particle experiences a forward drift during wave propagation.
Deep Water Celerity C = sqrt(gL/2pi)
Shallow Water Celerity C = sqrt(gd)
What are the factors that control the variety and size of wind-generated ocean waves?
Wind speed, wind duration, fetch, original sea state.
What is refraction? Why do waves break at the shoreline?
Refraction The bending of a wave when it enters a medium where it’s speed changes
Why waves break at the shore As waves reach the shore the energy in the front of the wave slows down due to bottom friction and causes the wave to break
Are tsunamis deep- or shallow-water waves?
Shallow water DUH!
How are internal waves different from surface waves?
internal waves travel slower, have longer periods and wavelengths, and have larger heights
What is the difference between standing and progressive waves?
Standing Waves-Waves that don’t propagate and remain stationary, no energy transport, have nodes and antinodes
Progressive Wave-Transfers energy from place to place
What determines the natural periods of resonant
standing wave phenomena?
The length and depth of the basin
What is the difference between Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements? What are examples of devices that make
such measurements?
Eulerian: specific location in space and measures flow past as time progresses- ADCP, buoys
Lagrangian: Follows particle movement through space and time (Argo floats)
