Brainscape's Knowledge GenomeTM

Browse over 1 million classes created by top students, professors, publishers, and experts.


See full index

textile science > Final Exam > Flashcards

Final Exam Flashcards

You may prefer our related Brainscape-certified flashcards:
Biology 101 flashcards
1
Q

Permanent finishes

A

Chemical change in fiber structure

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

Durable finish

A

Long lasting but deminishes with cleaning

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

Semi durable finishes

A

Removed after several cleanings

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

Temporary finishes

A

Removed after cleaning

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

Foam finish

A

Finishes are applied from a water based solution,solvent, or foam

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

Types of finishing by foam

A

-durable press (keeps appearance)
-water repellent
-soil release
-softeners
- mercerization
-fabric stabilizers

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

Singeing

A

Uses heat to remove fuzz off fabric

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Desizing

A

After singeing, enters bath of enzymes/acids/solvent/ and detergents

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

Scouring

A

-Prepares fabric for dyeing
-removes impurities

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

gauge

A

of needles per inch

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

course

A

rows of loops in a knit

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

wale

A

columns of loops in a knit

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

Warp knit

A

Used in lingerie
Diagonal
-each loop has own yarn source

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

qualities of WARP knit

A

-limited stretch
-does not run or ravel easily
-slower and more costly
-produces yardage only
-zig zag on back

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Qualities of WEFT knits

A

A
-4 way stretch
-more stretch in width
-may run or ravel
-can create shaped garments
-can create finished edges
-curls at selvage
-shrinks in wash
-fast, easy and cheap to make

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Tricot fabric

A

-warp knit
-flat production
-used in lingerie
-fastest production speed
-mesh

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

Raschel fabric

A

-warp knit
-uses compound needles
-can use large number of yarn guide bars for variation
-lace

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

Differences between tricot and raschel fabric

A

-heavy yarns, open spaces, lace, surface effects = raschel
-fine yarns, no or simple design, mesh = Tricot

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

single weft knits

A

-jersey
-purl
-rib

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

double jersey knits

A

-weft knit
-made with two sets of needles
-looks like jersey on one side and ribbed on the other
-looks like two fabrics bound together
-jacquard can be used to make it

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

purl knits have:

A

-have more bulk
-reversible
-lower wind resistance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

disadvantages of purl knits are:

A

-slower to make
-more costly
-poor crosswise stretch
-poor shape retention

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

Rib knit

A

-made by alternating wales of knit and purl stitches on the facing of fabric

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

advantages of rib knit

A

-excellent crosswise stretch
-more bulk than jersey
-good wind resistance
-does not curl
-warmth
-easy care

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
Q

disadvantages of rib knit

A

-opacity makes it less ideal for hosiery
-high cost
-increased weight
-slower production than jersey and purl

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
26
Q

advantages of jersey knit

A

-4 way stretch
-good elastic recovery
-fast and cheap to make

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
27
Q

disadvantages of jersey knit

A

-runs and ravels
-curls at selvage
-can shrink when laundered

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
28
Q

double weft interlock knit

A

-two rib knits knitted together to look like jersey on both sides
-two sets of needles

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
29
Q

end use of double knits

A

-pants
-jackets
-suits

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
30
Q

advantages of double knits

A

-resistant to unraveling
-does not curl
-shape retention
-higher strength
-wind resistance
-good elastic recovery
-good wrinkle resistance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
31
Q

flat bed knitting machine

A

used for warp knitting such as tricot and rachel

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
32
Q

circular knitting machine

A

used for weft knits such as jersey
-can make shaped garments

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
33
Q

Milanese knit

A

-warp knit
-produces angled pattern on surface like twill

compared to tricot it is:
-smoother
-greater elongation
-higher strength
-less design flexibility

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
34
Q

differences between warp and weft knits

A

yarn supply
-warp have each needle supplied with a yarn
-weft have one yarn supplying all needles
knitting proccess
-warp knits complete a course in one motion
-weft knits stitch courses one after another
machinery
-warp knits use an open flat bed
-weft knits use a circular machine

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
35
Q

qualities of warp knits compared to weft

A

-less stretch
-less bulk
-better dimensional stability
-higher strength
-doesn’t unravel as easily
-good draping
-softer hand
-more sheer
-wont shrink in wash

36
Q

chromophores are

A

molecular structures that produce visible color

37
Q

color is enhanced by

A

-single and double bonds
-auxochrome
-electro-pair donor (when chromophores are also present)

38
Q

auxochrome

A

-a modifier to chromophores that intensifies color
-does not produce color by itself
-is an electro pair donor
-Hydroxyl group (-OH)
-Amine group (-NH2)
-Aldehyde group (-CHO)
-Methyl mercaptan group (SCH3)
 OR
 NH2
 NHR
SUBSTITUTED AMINO GROUP
 NR2

39
Q

chromogen

A

a relatively colorless substances that can be converted into a dye

40
Q

Dyes

A

Soluble in water
 Organic
 Transparent
 Require no binder
 Have affinity for substrate

41
Q

Dye applications

A

 Coloring textiles
 Films
 Paper
 staining

42
Q

pigments

A

 Insoluble in water
 Organic and inorganic
 Opaque
 Usually require a binder

43
Q

pigment applications

A

 Vehicles
 Walls
 Plastics
 Wood
 metals

44
Q

direct/substantive dyes

A

-have polar groups, acidic or basic, that combine with the polar groups of fibers
-hot water dye bath
-used on natural materials (both protein and cellulosic)
-salts added to dye bath
-good to excellent light fastness
-poor wet fastness
-used in apparel and drapery

45
Q

acid dyes

A

-in salt form
-bright
-used on protein fibers
-acid acquired through nitro groups and sulfonic acid (NO2, Na03S, SO3Na)

46
Q

mordant (chrome) dyes

A

-Cr
-metallized
-metal is added to form insoluble colored salt
-similar to acid dyes (used on same materials)
-less bright than acid dyes
-chromium, aluminum, copper and iron used
-good color fastness to dry cleaning

47
Q

Vat dyes

A

-soluble in alkaline solution but not water
-used on cellulose
-excellent colorfastness
\
C-O-Na
//

48
Q

disperse dyes (acetate)

A

-made for acetate but used on other synthetics such acrylic and polyester
-slightly water soluble but easily dispersed through solution
-requires carrier at low temps
-generally good colorfastness

49
Q

reactive dyes

A

-permanent
-chemically bonds to fiber
-used for natural and nylon fibers
-reactive group is attached to dye through auxochrome

50
Q

fiber dyeing

A

advantages:
-deep penetration
-uniform color
disadvantages:
-fashion change
-color variation

51
Q

yarn dyeing

A

-spools of yarn are dyed in pressurized vat
advantages:
-faster and less labor than fiber dying
-fashion change not as fast
-permits multicolored yarn in fabric
-can produce basic designs
disadvantages:
-fashion change

52
Q

union dying

A

fabric containing different fiber types dyed one uniform color

53
Q

cross dyeing

A

different fiber types are dyed to produce different colors based on which dyes which fibers accept.

54
Q

continues dyeing

A

-open width fabric
-100+ meters
-specific amount of dye used to have even color and a depleted bath by the end

55
Q

garment dyeing

A

-more colors/finishes can be offered to small lots
-line colors can be dropped/added mid season
-color decision can be delayed till processing
-multiple finishes on the same style
-reduces inventory requirements

56
Q

pigment dyeing

A

-water insoluble
-have to be fixed to cellulose via alum or catatonic fixing agents
-excellent light fastness
- AL2(SO4) aluminum sulfate

57
Q

resist printing

A

-tie-dye
-batik (wax blocking)
-ikat (warp yarns dyed)
-stencil
-screen

58
Q

screen printing

A

-fabric is pulled over frame and coated in photochemical film
-design area is cleaned off into an open mesh for color to pass through
-rotary or flatbed

59
Q

discharge

A

-removal of dye from dyed fabric
-used when print fabric has dark colored background
-colored dye is then applied over the discharged areas
-bleach may weaken fabric where applied

60
Q

transfer printing

A

transfers color from paper to fabric
-vapor phase: sublimation ink transfers with heat

-wet transfer: dyes dissolved in water and transferred with heat and pressure.

-melt transfer: dyes mixed with thermoplastics, printed on paper, and transferred onto fabric with heat and pressure

61
Q

digital printing

A

-similar to computer printing
-for custom orders and samples

62
Q

permanent finish

A

A chemical change in fiber structure, (does not change by use or cleaning)

63
Q

durable finish

A

Last a long time, but effectiveness diminishes gradually by each cleaning

64
Q

Semidurable finish

A

Removed after several cleaning, can be reapplied at home

65
Q

temporary finish

A

Removed or substantially diminished by one cleaning

66
Q

singeing finish

A

-uses flames or heat to remove protruding ends of fibers
-then enters desizing bath

67
Q

desizing finish

A

-occurs after singeing
-is a bath that uses solvents, enzymes, detergents or acids

68
Q

scouring/boil-off

A

-prepares fabric for dyeing/finishing
-or to make fabric white
boil off = cotton, silk, manufactured fibers
scouring = woolen/worsted

69
Q

solvent scouring

A

-removes oils that were used for lubricating and softening yarns
-reduce static during knitting

70
Q

bleaching

A

-removes impurities that scouring cannot
-important for pastel blue/violet
-aims to create colorless material

71
Q

reducing bleaches

A

-hydrogenates unsaturated bonds to mask color
-unstable reaction
-sun and oxygen can reverse it

72
Q

oxidizing agents

A

-give a more permanent white
-breaks double bonds to remove color
-not easily reversed
-used more often

73
Q

tentering

A

-mechanical straightening of fabric
-fabric is held flat and moved apart while drying
-is part of mercerizing

74
Q

mercerization

A

-chemical finish for cellulose fiber
-adds luster but straightening fibers
-improves dyeing
-improves strength

75
Q

heat setting

A

-on thermoplastics: produces special shapes or pleats, wrinkle resistance,
-effect of setting depends on:
temp
time
pressure

76
Q

brushing

A

-mechanical finish
-removes short/loose fibers
-preliminary to napping or shearing

77
Q

calendaring

A

smooths surface under pressure of heated rolls (synthetics) or resin (naturals)

78
Q

weighting

A

-for silk fabric after de-gumming
-increases body and firmness
-decreases durability to light/air/sweat
-uses insoluble polymer

79
Q

embossing

A

-created with calendaring (heated rollers)
-resin can improve durability
-easier way to create a dimensional design than waving/knitting it in

80
Q

raised surfaces

A

-napping/sueding/brushing
-base satin/twill fabric is hidden (strong weaves to withstand brushing)
-surface covered with low twist staple fibers
-wired cylinders or sandpaper create nap
-surface is then sheared for even nap length

81
Q

morie

A

-mechanical finish
-mix of gloss and matt surface
-watery/wood grain/iridescent design
-two fabrics are calendared together and taken apart

82
Q

acid finish

A

-primarily for denim
-worn/faded appearance
-softens fabric (cellulase)
-tumbles with pumice for waring
-bleach for fading

83
Q

basic / standard finishes

A

-antimicrobial
-flame retardant
-static resistance
-wrinkle resistant
-uv resistant

84
Q

flame retardancy

A

-decreases rate of oxygen diffusion
-the fumes formed when burning work to deplete oxygen and inhibit combustion
-can be inheriant quality of fabric or added as treatment after

85
Q

flame retardant chemicals

A

-borax
-boric acid
-ammonium compound
-solvent vapor leaves salt compounds insoluble

86
Q

soil release

A

-hydrophilic surface attracts water to release soiling
-coats fibers so that soil cannot penetrate

87
Q

stain/soil resistant

A

-high degree of surface tension allows soil to float on top of fabric
-silicon
-wax

textile science (3 decks)

Brainscape helps you reach your goals faster, through stronger study habits.
© 2024 Bold Learning Solutions. Terms and Conditions