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textile science > Exam 2 > Flashcards

Exam 2 Flashcards

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1
Q

Simple yarns are:

A

Smooth

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2
Q

Complex yarns are:

A

Irregular

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3
Q

The steps of ring spinning are:

A

1 opening
2 cleaning
3 blending
4 carding
5 combing
6 drawing
7 roving
8 spinning

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4
Q

The opening step of ring spinning is:

A

When a hopper machine breaks open the compact bale of fiber and fluffs them on to a conveyor belt

This is the first step that comes before cleaning and blending

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5
Q

The cleaning step of ring spinning is:

A

When the dirt is removed in a centrifuge

This comes after the fibers are opening and before the fibers are blended

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6
Q

Carding is:

A

When the fibers are further cleaned and aligned by wired cards that remove the shortest fibers and forms a mass that is pulled into a rope called a sliver

This step is after cleaning and blending and before combing

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7
Q

A sliver is:

A

A rope like strand pulled from A webbed mass of fibers created by carding

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8
Q

Combing is

A

Carded slivers are fed to the breaker- drawing frame, where several card slivers are combined and combed to further allign the fibers and creates new combed slivers.

This step is after carding and before drawing

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9
Q

What is the difference from a carded sliver and a combed sliver?

A

Carded slivers are
-looser
-have 20% more shorter fibers
-less aligned
-not finalized
-removes a majority of impurities
-more absorbant
-used in napped fabric
Combed slivers are:
- the final sliver
-contain longer fibers
-made with finer combs
-more twisted
-further aligned
-smoother
-uniform
-formed from several carded slivers
-removes the rest of the impurities

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10
Q

What is drawing?

A

This is the stage where fibers can be mixed . Slivers from carding or combing unit are processed through drawing or drafting frame and combined.

This step comes after combing and before roving

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11
Q

What is roving?

A

Slivers from drawing are then taken to the roving frame where each sliver will be narrowed to 1/8 the original diameter
●A slight amount of twist is given by the roving frame to increase the strength of roving

This step comes after drawing and before spinning

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12
Q

What is spinning?

A

Roving is attenuated (narrowed) to the desired diameter called final draft
●More twist is introduced
●New final draft is fed to the spinning area
-a machine called the traveler twists the yarn in a u shaped guide on a bobbin via a spindle turning
-this step comes after roving and is the final step in ring spinning

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13
Q

What is rotor spinning

A

Also called open ended spinning or break spinning. Rotor spinning is A faster, ring-less system of twisting yarns by feeding a sliver into a funnel that breaks the sliver into fibers that are fed into an open end that creates the yarn
-less strong than ring spinning
-better uniformity and blending

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14
Q

Z twist

A

Twist direction for cotton yarn

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15
Q

S twist

A

Twist direction for wool yarn

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16
Q

Z + S twisting

A

One will be more twisted and one will be more unwound

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17
Q

Low twist yarn

A

Used in knits
More:
-soft
-fluffy
- breathable
-better hand
-dirt penetrates
Less
-strong

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18
Q

High twist yarn

A

-More strength (to a point)
-smoother
-Too much can create an
uneven surface that kinks and
-lacks luster and be
-unbalanced
-pilling of fabric
-dirt can’t penetrate

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19
Q

Balanced and unbalanced yarn

A

Unbalanced yarn is over twisted and tends to coil and kink when it hangs
Balanced yarn hangs straight

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20
Q

Torque

A

Internal force built as yarn is twisted

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21
Q

TPI

A

Twists Per Inch

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22
Q

Twist-less yarns

A

●A roving frame is made and drawn to a fine strand
●Adhesive is applied by rollers
●Heat is used to set the adhesive and bond the fibers

Differences from ring-spun yarns
●Stiffer
●More luster
●Less elongation
●Better covering power
●More uniform
-softer
-more absorbent

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23
Q

Filament yarns

A

Ie. silk and synthetic
-stronger than other fibers of same diameter
-force slides staple fibers apart
-force is applied evenly on filament fibers

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24
Q

Self twist yarns

A

-formed directly from fibers
-reduced space and cost
-higher production speed
-4 rollers occelate and spin with 2 yarns fed into two sets of rollers

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25
Q

Higher yarns per inch means

A

More:
strength
Weight
Better hand
Reduced yarn distortion
Abrasion resistance
Cost

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26
Q

Yarns per inch

A

Filling X warp
F epi X W ppi
Filling is the yarns per inch

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27
Q

Qualities of plain weave

A

Poor luster
Good snag resistance
Flat surface
Low tearing strength
Poor wrinkle resistance

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28
Q

Qualities of twill weave

A

Fair luster
Good snag resistance
Twill line surface
Medium tear strength
Fair wrinkle resistance
-compact

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29
Q

Qualities of satin weave

A

Good luster
Poor snag resistance
Smooth surface
High tearing strength
Good wrinkle resistance
-unbalanced
-warp or weft facing
-minimum interlacing
-dense

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30
Q

Qualities of ribbed plain weave

A

-Filling yarns are thicker
-Filling can have lower twist or staple fibers
-less wear

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31
Q

Basket weave

A

-reversible
-decorative
-low twist
-poor durability
-shrinkage
-yarn distortion

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32
Q

Fewer interlacings mean

A

More yarns per inch

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33
Q

Wales

A

Columns of stitches in knits
#of wales = needles per inch

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34
Q

Courses

A

Rows of stitches in knits

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35
Q

Purl stitch

A

-reverse knit stitch
-course faced

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36
Q

Miss stitch

A

-When needles don’t move to accept yarn
-yarn floats on back of fabric (float stitch)
-can create designs
-increases weight
-reduces stretch

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37
Q

Tuck stitch

A

-Needle holds old loop while receiving a new yarn
-collects two loops
-elongated stitch
-inverted “v”
-increases width and weight

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38
Q

Warp knit

A

Used in lingerie
Diagonal
-each loop has own yarn source

39
Q

Qualities of weft knits

A

-4 way stretch
-more stretch in width
-may run or ravel
-can create shaped garments
-can create finished edges
-curls at selvage
-shrinks in wash
-fast, easy and cheap to make

40
Q

Qualities of warp knits

A

-limited stretch
-does not run or ravel easily
-slower and more costly
-produces yardage only
-zig zag on back

41
Q

Tricot fabric

A

-warp knit
-flat production
-used in lingerie
-fastest production speed
-mesh

42
Q

Raschel fabric

A

-warp knit
-uses compound needles
-can use large number of yarn guide bars for variation
-lace

43
Q

Differences between tricot and raschel fabric

A

-heavy yarns, open spaces, lace, surface effects = raschel
-fine yarns, no or simple design, mesh = Tricot

44
Q

Differences in recovery and wrinkling between knits and woven

A

-Knits recover faster
-can’t be sharply creased
-knits are good for traveling
-easier care

45
Q

Differences in insulation and warmth between knits and woven

A

-knits are good insulators but are poor in wind
-tightly woven fabric provide better wind resistance

46
Q

problems with knits in comparison to woven fabric

A

Knits tend to stretch out of shape and snag more than wovens

47
Q

Knits with with higher stitch density are

A

-stable
-rigid
-tends to shrink less
-have less stretch
-better recovery

48
Q

Knits with lower stitch density

A

-stretch easily
-less rigid
-more poor recovery
-snags easier
-shrinks easier
-yarn distortion
-consumes less yarn
-faster to produce
-shape retention compromised

49
Q

Factors that limit production in ring spinning are

A

-Spindle speed
-amount of twist desired f

50
Q

Rotor spinning is

A
  • an open ended way of spinning in a funnel that is faster than ring spinning
  • slivers from roving are broken apart into individual fibers
51
Q

Advantages of open ended spinning (break spinning) are

A

-Better regularity
-uniformity
-distribution
-absorption

52
Q

Disadvantages of open ended (break) spinning are

A

-can’t spin fine yarn
-only able to spin course-medium yarn
-less strength than ring spun yarn

53
Q

Spun yarns

A

-made from staple fibers
-fibers are made parallel then pulled and twisted together
-twisting introduces surface friction by pressing fibers together which adheres them to each other

54
Q

Comparison of spun and filament yarns

A

Uniformity
Smoothness (spun is fuzzy)
Luster
Strength
-filament generally wins out on these categories
- filaments can slip and slide in fabric and out of seams
-spun fibers slip less because they adhere to each other with friction
-filaments break completely while only some fibers break or slip in spun yarn

55
Q

Spun yarns provide

A

-warmth
-softness
-lightweight
Ideal for :
-blankets
-sweaters
-T-shirt’s

56
Q

Filament yarns provide

A

-smooth uniform surfaces
-luster
-finer diameter
Used in:
-Lining (easy to slide on and off)
-outer wear surface (tightly packed yarns offer less wind penetration)

57
Q

TPM

A

Turns per meter

58
Q

Crepe fabric

A

-Made from highly twisted filament yarn
-combines Z and s twist
-pebble textured surface

59
Q

Napped fabric is

A

Fabric with a surface texture resulting from fibers being brushed out and raised from the surface
- fleece
-denim
-suede
-woolen

60
Q

Woolen yarns are

A

-carded
-fuzzier
-uneven
-bulkier
-insulating
-less twisted
-napped/felted surface

61
Q

Worsted yarns are

A

-combed
-smoother
-more uniform
-tighter twist
-firmer
-denser
-holds shape
-shows weave clearly
-tends to shine with ware
-used in suits

62
Q

Shuttle loom

A

-filling yarns are enclosed in a shuttle and passed through the shed of warp yarns
-produces narrow fabric
-slow production

63
Q

Shuttleless looms

A

-filling yarn is NOT held in a shuttle
-filling yarn comes from cones (yarn packages) at side of loom
-other mechanisms for filling include: projectile, rapier, air/water jet
-more compact
-faster production

64
Q

PPI

A

-picks per inch
-determined by rate of warp through loom (inches per minute)
-also determined by the rate filling yarns are inserted (picks per minute)

PPI = (picks per minute) / (inches per minute)

65
Q

Warp per inch calulation

A

(#of warp yarns on beam) / (width of fabric) = warps per inch

66
Q

Rapier

A

-filling yarn mechanic of shuttleless rapier loom
-rods that pull the filing yarn across
-produces high quality silk and wool
-can use fine delicate filament or heavy weight course yarn

67
Q

Projectile loom

A

-projectile with is shot across warp, pulling the filling yarn behind it
-can make wide fabrics (carpets)
-can’t use delicate yarns

68
Q

Jet loom

A

-air or water jet propels thread across warp
-is the fastest loom
-no abrasion to weft
-can’t produce very wide fabric
-can’t use bulky or heavy yarns

69
Q

5 features of woven fabric

A

-selvage
-warp and filling yarn
-face and back
-top and bottom
-yarns per inch

70
Q

Selvage

A

-ensures the edge of fabric won’t tear
ways to make selvage stronger include:
- heavier warp yarns
-more warp yarns per inch
-greater twist
-different weave

71
Q

Identifiers or warp yarns in fabric

A

-warp is thinner than filling
-more twist
-more yarns per inch
-stiffer
-plied

72
Q

Strongest weave

A

Satin
-floats and less interlacing allows for more density

73
Q

Leno weave

A

-warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs around each pick
-warp yarns can slip
-yarns can be spaced apart (see through)

74
Q

Pile fabric

A

-cut pile or uncut pile
-warp pile or filling pile (extra set of yarns)

75
Q

Double cloth

A

-way to produce pile fabrics
-pile yarns interlace and connect two sets of ground warps and wefts
-interlaced yarns are cut, producing the pile and two sheets of fabric

76
Q

Clip spot weave

A

Extra warp or weft threads are woven in floats on fabric and cut in certain spots

77
Q

Wire cut method

A

-extra warp is raised in loops to create pile
-wire is inserted through the shed of pile and pulled to cut the pile

78
Q

Warp/filling pile fabrics

A

-5th set of yarn is woven into ground fabric
- can be cut or uncut

79
Q

Looped pile fabric

A

-Terry cloth method
-based on tension
-uncut pile fabric
-extra warp yarn is raised by wire
- pile is created in both sides
-pile yarns are highly twisted

80
Q

Tufted pile fabric

A

-loops are inserted into pre-constructed fabric using needles and a looper to pull the piles of yarn
-can be cut or uncut

81
Q

Flocking

A

-tiny fibers are sprinkled on adhesive coated fabric and static points the fiber up

82
Q

Advantages of pile fabric

A

-pleasant hand
-higher absorption
-greater abrasion resistance
-thicker
-warmer

83
Q

Disadvantages of pile fabric

A

-staining due to high surface area
-care
-long drying time
-loss of piles

84
Q

Advantages of weaving

A

-Strength
-durability
-unlimited variety / tightness
-launders well
-any finish can be applied
-resistant to abrasion
-can be cut and draped

85
Q

Disadvantages of weaving

A

-must be cut (involves waste)
-cost due to time/production is higher than knitting
-not as flexible and drapable as knits
-wrinkles
-not as form fitting
-not as elastic
- slippage at seams
-subject to shine
-not as porous as knits

86
Q

Triaxial weaving

A

-interlaced at 60 degree angle
-uses three sets of yarn
-warp beams are located above weaving area
-a set of 2 filling yarns are inserted horizontally
-no selvage

87
Q

Gauge

A

Number of needles per inch

88
Q

Steps in weaving

A

1shedding
2picking
3beating
4letting up

89
Q

Shedding is

A

-The first step in weaving
-when the harnesses move apart to create space (shed) between the warps
-step before picking

90
Q

Picking is

A

-The second step in weaving
-filling yarns (picks) are passed through the shed of warps
-after shedding
-before beating

91
Q

Beating is

A

The third step in weaving
-reeds in the beater push filling yarn into fabric
-closes the weave
-before letting up
-after picking

92
Q

Letting up is

A

The fourth and final step in weaving
-warp yarns advance through loom
-fabric is rolled up on cloth beam
-after beating

93
Q

Slashing is

A

Applying starch to warp yarns
-prevents breaking in loom
-smooths fuzzy ends

textile science (3 decks)

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