Fibers pt.2 Flashcards
The flax plant is allowed to grow to a height of?
2-4 feet / 60-120cm
Steps in the production of linen?
First, seeds and unwanted material are removed by pulling and rippling, then drying.
Then the outer woody portions of the flax are removed to obtain the fibers from the stalk. This is done by using dew, in a pool or tank, or with a chemical solution. This process is called retting.
Then fluted rollers are used to break the outer wooden covering into small particles. A separating action, scrutching, is used to isolate the fibers from the outer covering.
Then a combing action, hackling, is used to separate the short fibers from the long fibers.
Then the fibers are spun. Flax fibers can be spun either wet or dry. The best quality yarn for linen is obtained from wet spinning and from the long fibers.
Describe the appearance of linen
it has no twist as in cotton
The width is irregular
the lumen casts a shadow that makes the center appear darker
nodes are visible which seems like joints on bamboo
characteristics of linen?
it is a strong fiber with a high luster
it is naturally stiff, resists bending and has little elasticity, elongation and resiliency
they are prone to crease and wrinkle badly
it is a comfortable and cool fabric
it is easily laundered and does not form lint
The world’s largest supplier of wool?
sheep
Wool from live animals is called?
fleece/clip wool
Wool from a slaughtered animal is called?
pulled wool
Name given to disentangled fibers?
carded slivers
Production process of wool?
shearing
sorting/grading according to fineness/width, crimp, length and color
scouring to remove grease, dirt and burs
combing and carding using wire brush rollers to disentangle the fibers
Gilling to align the fibers by passing slivers through large combs
Dyeing, which is done at the fiber stage or left for the yarn/fabric stage
Drawing, which is additional gilling done to reduce the sliver.
Spinning, which draws out the fibers, twists them and winds them onto reels as yarns.
After spinning the wool is then used to make woollen and worsted fabric. The coarser bulkier yarns are used for woollen fabric and the fine smooth yarns are used for worsted fabrics