Facial Flashcards
Skin Types
(What you are born with)
Normal: pinkish healthy glow, matt appearance, nor too oily nor too dry, soft and supple to touch, has a high degree of elasticity, absence of pustule and papule
Dry: pale or pinkish, fine light, transparent, often flaky, tight, milia often around eyes and cheeks, small pores around eyes, matt appearance, fine lines around eyes from early age, skin ageing quicker, absence of pustule and papule
Oily: shiny, open pores, comedones, thick to touch, presents a coarse swallow appearance, slower ageing process appearance of pustule and papule
Combination: tendency of dry cheeks, open pores on central panel and forehead, prone to comedones
Skin Conditions
(Things which can impact the skin overtime)
Sensitive: linked more often with dry skin, thin epidermis, easily stimulated, dilated, reacts easily to products, dark patches shown on black skin, hypo-allergenic products should be used
Dehydrated: extremely lacking In moisture, prone to fine superficial lines
Mature: heavy lines, poor muscle tone, poor elasticity, uneven pigmentation, lack of care and sun damage, collagen and fibres and deteriorating and breaking down
Benefits & Effects of Facial
Short Term
• Relaxation
• Deep cleansing
• Aids desquamation (exfoliating)
• Skin appears fresher
• Immediately improves blood and lymph flow
Long Term
• Tones and firms
• Overall skin appearance is enhanced
• Softer, glowing, more refined skin
• Softens fine lines
• Improves blood and lymph flow
• Minor problems corrected eg. dry patches, redness
• Feeling of well being
Contra-indication
A pre-existing condition that prevents or restricts the treatment eg. asthma, high blood pressure, conjunctivitis.
Contra-action
Something that occurs during or after the treatment eg. erythema.
Prevent
The treatment can not be carried out unless the client presents a doctors note
Restrict
The treatment can be carried out but you need to adapt the treatment
After Care
• No make up for 24 hours
• No further facial treatments for 24 hours
• Use cleanser and moisturizer daily
• Avoid UV light for 24 hours
• Use SPF cream daily
• Drink plenty of water
• Specific skin care advise
Skin conditions (not contagious)
• Crows feet
• Comedones
• Pustules
• Papules
• Eczema
• Psorias
• Milia
Bacterial (very contagious)
•Impetigo
•Conjunctivitus
Fungal (very contagious)
• Tinea Corporis (ringworm of body)
• Tinea Capitas (ringworm of scalp)
• Tinea Unguium (onychomycosis) finger nails & toe nails
• Tinea Pedis (athletes foot)
Viral (very contagious)
• Herpes Simplex (cold sore)
• Herpes Zoster (shingles)
• Wart (HPV)
• Verucca (HPV)
Infestation (very contagious)
• Scabies
Key Differences
Black Skin
• Higher Sebum
More compact stratum corneum
• Lower ceramide levels (fat/lipids)
Increased water loss (ashiness)
• Thicker, tighter collagen fibres in small bundles
• Higher melanin = some inbuilt protection
Natural SPF 13.4 (approx)
• Melanin protects the collagen bundles from UV damage
• More melanin = more change of hyperpigmentation
Overproduction of collagen can lead to keloid scarring
• Sensitivity shows up as darker patches
White skin
• Lower sebum
Less compact stratum corneum
• Higher ceramide levels
Less water loss
• Looser, larger bundles of collagen fibres
• Less melanin = less inbuilt protection
Natural SPF 3.3 (approx)
• Collagen under much more stress due to lack of melanin
• Sensitivity shows as red patches
Male Skin (things to consider)
• Tends to be more oily
• Do they shave?
• Have they got a beard?
• Stubble – how does this affect your movements when performing a facial?
Product Knowledge
• Cleansers
• Toners
• Exfoliants
• Masks
• Moisturisers
• SPF cream
• Specialised products – serums (Vit C), eye cream, neck cream
Cleanser
• Exfoliates dead skin cells, improving the skin’s appearance
• Removes make up, dirt and pollutants, reducing the possibility of blemishes and irritation
• Removes excess sweat and sebum, reducing congestion and potential comedones and pustules
Types of Cleansers
• Cleansing balm – dry/dehydrated skin: Thicker/heavier – oil based
• Cleansing cream – dry skin: Higher proportion oil to water, therefore thicker
• Cleansing milk – dry/sensitive/combination skin: Quite high proportion oil to water, therefore more fluid
• Cleansing lotion – Oily/congested combination skin: Do not usually contain oil
• Cleansing gel – Oily skin: Usually contain mild detergent so foam when mixed with water
Toner
• Provides a cool effect on the skin
• Removes leftover makeup after cleanser
Types of Toners
• Freshener - dry/sensitive/mature skin
• Astringent - oily skin
• Tonic - normal skkn
Exfoliant
• Desquamation is the natural physical process of losing dead skin cells from the stratum corneum. Exfoliation speeds up this process
• Dead skin cells and debris are removed
• Fresh new cells are exposed, improving the appearance
• Blood circulation stimulated
• Hyperpigmentation improved
Types of Exfoliants
• Grains – in a cream base, gently massaged over the skin
• Clay – more gentle with a clay base, applied like a face mask. It absorbs dead skin cells and sebum as it drys. It is removed by gently stroking away and most suitable for blemished/oily skin type
• Mechanical – facial brush eg. Clarisonic
• Chemical – affective for fine lines, acne, dulness, evening out skin tone
Facial Masks
• Stimulating - to liven up sallow skin
• Astringent - for coarse skin with dilated pores
• Emollient - to soften and nourish dry skin
• Deep pore cleansing - oily skins
• Natural - various types for different purposes
Benefits & Effects of Masks
• Improves blood flow so bringing fresh nutrients to the skin
• Improves lymph flow aiding removal of waste products
• Aids desquamation (skin shedding)
• Deep cleansing
• Nourishing
• Soothing
Types of Masks
• Calamine - soothing, cooling action
• Magnesium carbonate - astringent, stimulating and toning actions
• Kaolin - brings out a stronger response, has a ‘drawing’ effect, good for blocked congested skins
• Fuller’s Earth - stimulating - ideal for very oily skins
• Clay - these are natural ingredients which absorb waste and draw out deep down impurities and tightening. These can be stimulating or soothing depending on the choice of ingredients, but generally these are more suitable for oilier skins
Mask Mix
• Rose water - mild toning effect on the skin
• Orange flower water - stimulating, toning effect
• Witch Hazel - drying, stimulating. Do not use on dry skin
• Almond oil - useful on very dry skins. This does not set
Moisture
• The skin depends on water to keep it soft, supple and resilient. The skin contains about 20% of the body’s water. Most is in the lower layers but as it gets to the top of the epidermis is evaporates.
• Protects the skin from external damage
• Softens the skin
• Plumps skin tissue, minimises lines
• Provides a barrier between skin and make up
• Can contain UV filter eg. SPF
Types of Moistures
• Cream – high oil content & good for mature/dry skin. Can have SPF
• Lotion – less oil, more fluid. Best for oil, combination and dehydrated skin. Can have an SPF
• Night cream – high oil content so tend to be thick
Steaming
• This is used as a gentle cleansing treatment which can be used on all skin types. The majority of steam units offer the ‘ozone’ facility. This has an anti-bacterial effect on the skin, promoting healing and helps to destroy bacteria
• N.B. if a steamer were to ‘spit’ at a client during a treatment, remove the steamer and turn off
• Apply a cold compress and make a note on the treatment plan. Get the unit checked out
Benefits & Effects of Steam
• Increases blood and lymph flow
• Softens tissues
• Opens pores
• Aids comedone removal
• Relaxing
• Aids cell renewal and cell nutrition
• Aids desquamation
• Hydrates skin surface
• Better skin colour
• Deep cleansing
• Induces sweating
Contra-indications of Steam
• Diabetes
• Asthma
• Claustrophobia
• Highly sensitive skin
• Vascular conditions
• Broken capillaries
Procedure for Steaming
• Prepare client
• Check machine and heat up 10 minutes prior to using it
• Place client in semi-reclining position and cover eyes with damp cotton pads
• Position steamer at the chin, steam will rise up the face
• Steamer should be placed 25 – 37cms away from the client (an arm’s length!) depending on manufacturer’s instructions and skin type
• Treatment time 5-15mins depending on skin type - 5 minutes (dry, sensitive skin) 7-15 minutes (oily skin)
• On completion, continue with extractions
